Bubble Purge™ SeaStar Hydraulic Steering Bleed Repair OST

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
outboardst.com/product/bubble...
Outboard Specialty Tools Instructional/demo video for the original Bubble Purge™ Hydraulic Steering Bleed Kit. Professional design, professional grade materials, professional results and dedicated tech support for SeaStar, Uflex hydraulic steering.

[@Barracuda440]

Great video, watched several times as we’ve bled several buddies steering systems the last couple years. Works great! Ran into a snag though. Replaced friends cylinder seals a year ago and everything was good. This year he had the seals fail again. It was actually squirting fluid from seals not just a small leak. So we replaced seals and tried to bled system but we are not having any air bubbles escape through the tube at helm. See bubbles flowing through bleeder hose at cylinder but they just keep circulating and won’t ever leave the system through the helm. Any ideas?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi Stacy, The steering piston rod, which runs through the bore in the cylinder needs to be inspected for pitting. Even minor pitting on the piston rod can degrade new seals prematurely. Often the pitting can be hidden as the rod can pit out where the end caps of the cylinder rides, so the cylinder may have to be moved to port or starboard to get a better look. In the event that the rod is pitted out it can cause 2 major problems that will impair not only the cylinder but also the helm. 1) end cap seals will fail, system loses fluid and can easily take on contaminants 2) any contaminants, especially water that end up in the system can cause issues with the valves in the helm pump which control the movement of fluid and hydraulic pressure within the hoses and cylinder. If the helm valves are fouled or pitted they may not seat properly which will prevent the system from building pressure and holding it during actuation as well as allowing feed back, which would normally be locked out by the helm valves, from the motor through to the helm when running at higher rpm's. If the helm is compromised, it is often pretty easy to find with the following test: push firmly on the motor and hold the pressure for about 10 seconds, if the steering wheel starts to turn there is an issue. Normally the helm valves will seat and lock out feedback as soon as a sharp push on the motor occurs. The issues you are seeing are usually pointing to an issue with the helm not being able to build enough pressure to force everything back to the helm. This is caused either by the helm pump not being fully primed/full of fluid or by the valves in the helm being damaged or contaminated. In this region, where most systems spend their service lives in the salt environment, most helms are on borrowed time after about 10 years in service. If the piston rod on your system is pristine, it is always possible that you have a defective seal in play. If using SeaStar OEM seals, this would be very rare, especially if occuring on both end caps 1 year in.

[@Barracuda440]

Thanks for the info. Inspected piston rod and system and everything looked good. Ended up having start the bleeding process the old school way by bleeding out air from each bleeder individually until we had enough air out to continue the process with your purge kit. Looks like all is well. We’ll keep an eye on it and hopefully these seals will hold up. Thanks again.

[@jonlamb5421]

This is a really well thought out tool. Worked as easily as seen on KZbin. If you are hesitant, don’t be!

[@flyinghigh5031]

Great tool made the job so easy and clean. Awesome video too helped me through the whole process

[@Halucination08]

I just got this and I am new to the hydraulic steering and maintenance, this made this so simple, all in one easy kit, that I stored for the next time. I love this thing, definitely worth the money!

[@timothyregan3174]

Always love your videos Tyler! I have used them many times to help me with any problem with my Yamaha F150. Glad you have your own channel. Best of luck!

[@TradeWindgng]

Great great video …Excellent demonstration definitely will order your kit. Thanks again Keep them coming please

[@alanmadison225]

Great video! Thank you for taking the time to video and post it. Much appreciated!

[@markgomez7130]

2007 Mercury Optimax. Worked perfectly. Corpus Christi Texas. Thanks!👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

[@johnlindley5053]

This product is great and the support that Tyler gave me was next level. I'm not a professional, and he was helpful and patient throughout.

[@Lakanuki]

Excellent video I will be doing this tomorrow with my home made version. Thank You

[@daveoien6892]

Can you explain your homemade version? Hose clamps?

[@tommypurcell163]

I just got the Gen 2 bubble purge (quick shipping even with Covid junk!) and it was super easy. My mechanical ability is average to below average and I still had no problems, largely because of this product, this video, and an old video Tyler did with Marine Tech, where he showed how to change cylinder caps. Thanks for the great products and videos!

[@surfmonkeyau]

Thank for the easy to follow instructions,

[@westpointlakegar]

Works like a charm!

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

The rebuild tool kit that we make, item number OST-0300, is strictly the tools required to do the cylinder tear down, re-seal and bleed. SeaStar manufactures the seal kits, part number hs5167. We do sell the seal kits on the site, but they are widely available elsewhere like Amazon, West Marine etc.

[@nickkostakis9600]

Great show and very well explained thank you very much from Sydney Australia 😊

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Thanks Nick, Cheers!

[@danfall1003]

Did this with my twin engine ob and worked well. I think there is room for improvement on the return line. A fitting at the jug seems wiser and time saving. But very pleased with the product. Thanks.

[@ahndeux]

To really get the air out of the helm, you have to move it to one end and add a little more pressure, and then "pop" it to opposite quickly. It gets out the air trapped in the valve areas. You do it back and forth on either end of the travel and it gets most of the bubbles out.

[@judahotto2258]

Instablaster...

[@gladson9343]

Obrigado! Great video

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

No need to poke holes in the bottle. Fluid drains out of bottle and air rises into bottle in more or less equal volume. Occasionally I will disconnect the bottle at the quick connect to verify that the bottle isn't building internal pressure, but usually not necessary to vent.

[@basssindylan]

So where is the air going I just watched another video where he pushed the air into a jar and put the hole in the bottle everything is sealed tight where is the air exiting not being smart just asking a question

[@andrewfyakim525]

I bought your Bubble Purge Pro a week ago; the one with the long return line.... I figure if you can do this with one hand, and one eye in the camera, surely even I can do it with two hands and two eyes! ☺ I'm getting ready to try it out tomorrow...

[@daviolo1]

Hi tyler, do i need to buy Stud OST-0013 from your web or can i used the Yamaha Pin Wrench AMT0004-38mm x 4mm are they the same? i got the Uflex hydraulic steering on a single F300 btw love your video.

[@ShorrockPaul]

seems one could add an electrick hydraulic pump to this and run the fluid round the system with a flick of a switch. neat set up you have build there

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

We've thought about adding some form of electric pump to the system, the main reason we haven's is that it would be a pricy addition to the kit and also would add a new layer of required expertise. If the user accidentally leaves bleed valves closed while using the G2 Kit, the helm will bind and they usually figure out that they need to open the bleed valves. The electric pump does not care if bleed valves are open or shut. It will push fluid and compress any air in the system as long as it has power. The pump would also need to be able to maintain a certain level of pressure to actually circulate through even very small systems. You haven't lived until you've seen a helm fill go "pop". Hydraulic mist, happens surprisingly fast. Hydraulic fluid will be dripping out of every nook and cranny near the console for years.

[@BrackishWaters]

OK, that worked like a charm, thanks!! Now, how do I empty the 2 hoses and clean them properly for storage?

[@stanley33325]

Can I just use a clear tube to connect the two venting valves instead of using the bridge quick connect kit? Shouldn't be the same? What is the difference?

[@chriszasada9756]

So basically with this system , you can bleed out a Seestar steering system without making a mess and doing it by yourself ? I just picked up a used ranger with a Yamaha 150 Vmax , it has a SeeStar hydraulic system on it and the steering is way loose to me . Plus I am new to the whole hydraulic steering system to begin with . Last boat was cable so this is completely new to me . I did buy a bottle of fluid and a fill hose from a location shop . After watching this video , and being a mechanic myself , this looks straight forward, and not complicated to do .

[@dustinhedenberg6190]

I would like to see other stuff you have please let me know if you can help. Thanks

[@aaroncarter2600]

do you poke a hole in the bottle to let air out?

[@The_Life_Of_Isley]

Thanks for the video and the kit, will be buying one soon

[@alexandriadamico6196]

when bleeding do u open bleeders both at the same time or one at a time

[@michaelspicer3289]

I purchased the fittings from NAPA. When I loosen the fittings mine will not run in a continious circuit. It just runs to lock and the steering wheel will not turn any futher. Any ideas?

[@catherineromeo4891]

Another great video thanks, I’ve used your tools for rebuilding piston &bubble purge my ? is I’m purging the system almost done there is nice smooth no skipping in the wheel but when I’m bottomed out on either side & go back opposite way there seems to be a little vibration/skip , I assume there is air some place (in helm?) an suggestion on where or how to remove? thanks

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi Catherine, there are quite a few variables in play with these systems. If you know that the air is out of the system, and it's still fighting with you coming out of the corners, its possible that the helm is a factor, but tough to say without looking at the system. I would need more info about your system, set-up and system age, so please end more info when you have the chance. What type of helm, cylinder, single or twins/trip's, single or dual helm etc, approximate age of your system? In general, and especially in the salt water market, most hydraulic helms are dealing with some combination of contaminated fluid or fluid loss after about 10 to 15 years in service which can degrade the helm ability to build pressure. Isnepct the helm for signs of corrosion and leakage. Look under the wheel for signs of leaking oil seals, check out the back of the helm for leakage and advanced corrosion. Check hose fittings as well. If there is a leak that's bad enough to affect the steering system noticeably, it's usually pretty easy to find. Feel free to send me more info and we'll help any way we can.

[@jonymker3923]

Worked exactly as shown in this video. Thank you,

[@galada52]

do you still have to put a pin hole in the oil container?

[@AchikSarih]

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤

[@golferdice]

How do I bleed when I do not have a plug in my helm? Just need a quick suggestion on what to do without having the plug and I’ll be good!

[@BHNTEK]

One question. If the bypass hose is full of air when you start turning the wheel aren’t you introducing that air into the system starting out? I realized this after trying to figure out why there was so much air traveling through the hose. It took me 2 hours to get all the air out. One thing I learned is you need to mentally track the large air pockets from the bypass tube down through the hull and up to the helm then stop turning the wheel and let the air work its way up to the helm. Air bubbles rise slowly. Then work the wheel back and forth in short bursts in several locations to get that air pocket out. Then find the next air pocket in the bypass tube and repeat. I think I would have cut the air extraction time way down if I had filled the bypass tube with oil before connecting it.

[@alanaho4915]

So when do you decide to bleed the system? You're putting in nearly a quart of new fluid, where does the old fluid go? Or, how do you drain old fluid? 🤔

[@MrThoLuu]

Great video. Do you know why when I loosen the bleed fitting, the hydraulic fluid comes out of the thread instead of the hole? Because of that, I couldn't see any bubbles.

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

This problem is usually caused by debris build-up in the port that the bleed valve threads into also the O-ring on the bleed fitting being damaged or dry rotted. If one or both of these problems is occurring, fluid will leak from the threads through the O-ring and out the front of the bleed port. When this problem happens, the bleed valve needs to be removed, blow it out with compressed air, visually inspect the fitting to make sure that the passages are not blocked. Gently clean out the bleeder valve port before threading the valve back in. Replace the O-ring with the new O-rings that come with the seal kit, if you are not doing a re-seal, you can find matching O-rings separately through several vendors.

[@kyledunaway6370]

Does this work on uflex systems as well?

[@jaredfuller7696]

When I’m turning the engine in this process the quick connect fitting is rotating up with the cylinder and hitting the engine and will not turn any further without braking off, Yamaha 250 SHO, is there a solution for this? I messed with the trim and jackplate trying to adjust but no luck

[@ccorbett3492]

I have an Adventure Craft . Two helms. Would you hook fluid to both helms and turn at the same time or will your Bubble Purge work on this ? Thanks for any input .. CJ

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

CJ, Sorry I'm so late getting back to you. The G2 would work with dual station/single cylinder one at a time, however the idea is really interesting. Dual helms on the same deck/same elevation would be worth a try. I have to try this to see if it would make a difference.

[@garycooper6139]

I was wondering if your system fits mercury 150 set up?

[@thomastirolflorida5363]

its not a mercury 150 set up. Mercury makes the engine, then rig it with steering options, most likely sea star.

[@szinski]

Can this be used to bleed the SeaStar power assist unit (after fresh installation)?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi Steve, for systems with power assist or autopilot etc, I recommend the Bubble Purge Pro Kit which is available for rent or purchase on outboardst.com. The regular Bubble Purge Kit is able to bleed a system with power assist, but it can take quite a bit longer.

[@bryancook305]

How do you do this with twins? Two engines/two rams with just one helm?

[@cjharrin]

Yes! I need to know the answer for this as well.

[@glyshorts9107]

In desperation i added power steering fluid to my steering system. I know that probably not a good thing.. will i have to drain the system and fill with seastar fluid? Thanks fo input.

[@tylerholland2232]

I would flush the system, add SeaStar and bleed. Not worth the risk of internal damage being caused by wrong liquid. The Bubble Purge Kit comes with detailed instructions for full system flush, fill and bleed. And if you need me, gimme a shout

[@Ingeanous]

I bought a used boat that has has a single 150 outboard with a SeaStar steering system. No indications of any leaks I can find in the system. If I turn the wheel slowly (motoring around at idle speed) nothing happens. If I turn it a little faster it engages and the motor will turn. The fluid level at the wheel looks full. Is this maybe a symptom of having air in the system?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi, After these steering systems get to about 10 to 15 years in service on average, they are more and more likely to develop issues like you describe. Likely there is either some air in the system or there is some contamination/wear and tear on the valves in the helm pump or some combination of both. Also, less common, the inner wall of the cylinder can develop pitting near the center of the cylinder when the piston rod seals ride when driving straight. If the valves in the helm are hanging open when they should not be, it is harder for the helm to build enough pressure to actuate the cylinder without turning the wheel more rapidly. Normally air only gets into the system if there is a leak in one or more of the seals either on the cylinder end caps or the oil seal under the steering wheel on the steering column which actuates the helm pump. Also, inspect the back side of the helm for leaks and heavy corrosion. First step I usually take to diagnose/isolate the problem is flush/bleed the system so that you know it is primed and that lack of fluid and fluid quality is not an issue. Then see how the system reacts when turning slowly and then more quickly. Push side to side on the motor, a fully primed and functional system should have almost no movement at the cylinder and the steering wheel should not move at all. If you push on the motor and the steering wheel starts turning, highly likely is an issue with the helm valves. Also, after bleed and prime system and a load test, wait a day or so and check all seals again for leakage, especially this time of year when nights are cooler and days warm up. If you have the old school end caps with 4 hole pattern, which have been obsolete for many years now, almost a guarantee that they are either compromised/failing or are on borrowed time especially if there is heavy wear and pitting on the piston rod. Hope this info helps. If you have further questions, just let me know. Thanks

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Also, pushing side to side on motor and turning wheel if motor is bouncy and steering wheel unresponsive, move the motor halfway between center and either port or starboard lock (where piston rod seals may be able to ride on smooth anodized inner cylinder wall) and see if the problem goes away. If the symptoms disappear, it is more likely that the cylinder inner wall is pitted out somewhere near center. Btw, these are just diagnostic steps you can take to try to avoid a system tear down. Often, at least some diagnostic tear down is advisable.

[@Ingeanous]

Thank you for the detailed feedback. Looks like I've got some more troubleshooting to do. Everything with the boat looks pristine, but she is older. Boat and motor are 2006. BTW, I've noticed its only when trying to turn to one side (port). Thanks again!@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631

[@spearfish25]

How does one do this with twins that each have their own cylinders? Would I do anything with the reservoirs for each cylinder in my bilge?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Sorry for late reply. Dual cylinder with steel tie bar usually can be purge with one G2 kit and a separate cylinder attachment, but the extra plumbing can complicate things, especially if you have power assist or autopilot incorporated into your system. For this reason, we usually recommend Bubble Purge Pro SC or DC. SC is configured for single cylinder, but can do one at a time or DC which is configured to handle both cylinders simultaneously. The SC kit can also be upgraded to DC. The Pro kits are also able to connect up to and purge power assist and auto pilot pumps if they are equipped with external SeaStar bleed fittings.

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Please forgive, just read the last part of your comment. I would assume that if you have external reservoirs in your bilge that you are running another type of system, sounds like SeaStar Optimus? Please send more info on your system when you have a chance.

[@danszumiesz2220]

Is there different size bleed ports on Sea Star steering systems? I have model HC5345-3. When I connected the quick disconnects of the bleed tube to both bleed ports, and opened the ports, I have fluid coming out from the quick disconnects connectors. I tried numerous times removing and reconnecting the tube. But it would leak really bad every time. Not sure if the quick disconnects are faulty. I even tried swamping sides with the tube, but I have a lot of fluid all over my garage floor. EDIT: I should of mentioned the kit that was leaking was from a different company I bought off of Amazon. I bought your kit after and it worked as it should. NO LEAKS and I was able to bleed all the air out of the system. Great product and awesome video on how to do the job yourself. THANKS

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Glad to hear you are back up and running. We have had serious issues on Amazon with mostly offshore vendors producing copies of our patented kit and selling on Amazon, and in fact we are in another round of working with Amazon to deal with another batch of imitators ripping off our kit. Amazon has been great so far in helping us deal with this issue, having de-listed more than 50 companies whose listings are direct copies of the G2. Fittings: There should definitely be zero fluid leakage out of our quick connect fittings, they should always have a tight seal. In the event that any of our fittings leaks it is normally something that we warranty immediately. It is not unusual to see the o-rings on the actual cylinder bleed fittings degrade over time and they can leak when the bleeders are opened during maintenance. Since they are within half an inch of our fittings, it can be tough to differentiate, but regardless, if our stuff is leaking from a place that should be sealed, we will cover it.

[@danszumiesz2220]

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thank you for the reply. I would definitely recommend your bleeder kit to anyone wanting to service the steering system. Also, your videos are great help!

[@TheDaveGH]

looks good... but you do mention you replaced the seals first. How do we know those are gone? (I assume leaking, etc). Mine is quite low, will just filling help the situation? Not sure how to empty (purge). The other thing thats a bit confusing is you say turn to starboard... then move motor by hand? thx

[@petertosh4409]

Where's my bubble purge kit?

[@jeremyimes6734]

I bought the kit. But it didn’t include the additional attachment that you have at the helm. Do I need that piece as well? The one that attaches directly to the fill port.

[@54checkmate]

Hi Tyler - I have a sea cat with twin 140 Suzuki outboards..I have been having an issue with fluid coming out of the New Seastar Helms fluid port on top of the helm. I was told by Seastar that it was probably from air in the system. I have tried bleeding the system by following the Seastar recommendations. Have not been able to get it right. Does your system work with twins and a liquid valve in-between. Also how would it work. Thanks

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

For systems like yours you have two options, first option is to order the Bubble Purge Kit and also order an extra cylinder bypass attachment. This option will work with dual cylinder and liquid tie bar however, if you have autopilot and or power assist pumps, the best solution is Bubble Purge Pro DC with Dual Cylinder Bleed hoses. The Pro kit is faster and much easier to work with more complicated plumbing and also make system flush alot easier. And the biggest advantage of the Pro is that once air exits the bleed valves on the cylinder, it is out of the system and can't get back in, whereas the regular Bubble Purge Kit routes air back through steering hoses into the helm where it vents out.

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

And as far as fluid seeping out of the vented cap, yes, it is likely that the system has some air in it. If you have noticed any play in the steering, all the more likely it needs a bleed.

[@54checkmate]

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Yes I can even notice that one engine is out of alignment. Thank you I went to your website and read about the system and how it works with the pro kit. Thanks again

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

We are offering both Bubble Purge Pro Kits at a pretty steep discount as part of our Labor Day sale, the website should have the Labor Day pricing listed within the next few minutes.

[@54checkmate]

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thank You for the Labor day pricing, that clinched the deal. I just ordered the pro kit with the dual engine attachment. I am waiting to get it and will use it right away. Will give you a complete review when I'm done.

[@hindrichani893]

Hello, viewing a previous one of your videos on replacing seastar seals, I have a question: I have a seastar HC4645H model and the seals available are GEN II. Are they the correct seal for my current cylinder? It was purcharsed on 2008.

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

If you are using OEM seals made by SeaStar either the HS5157 seal kit or HS5167 seal kit, they will fit all SeaStar cylinders from Gen 1 to current

[@georgeferreira4270]

Hi, I thought the video was great and easy to follow. I have twin engines and each one has it's own piston, do I need to order 2 kits or do I do the motors individually?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi George, this will depend on the exact configuration of your system. If you have a Dual Cylinder system with steel tie bar, and no power assist or Autopilot, you can purge the system efficiently one Bubble Purge G2 Kit (outboardst.com/product/bubble-purge-hydraulic-steering-bleed-and-purge-kit-ost-pbb-001/) and an additional Hydraulic Cylinder Bypass Attachment (outboardst.com/product/hydraulic-steering-cylinder-bypass-attachment-ost-pbb-001-3/) If you have a Dual Cylinder configuration with Liquid Tie Bar and Auto Pilot, Power Assist multiple helms etc (common for Catamaran style hulls) I'd recommend that you step up to the Bubble Purge Pro DC. The Pro DC is obviously a step up in price, but is designed specifically to handle the demands of more advanced systems with more intricate plumbing. The Pro DC will also allow you to purge both cylinders simultaneously as well as being compatible with manufacturer recommended purge sequence for most Auto Pilot and Power Assist pumps.

[@georgeferreira4270]

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thank you. I just ordered the Pro DC but I have another question. Do you need a hole in the bottle so it's allowed to breathe and release the air as you're moving the steering wheel?

[@pmturso]

I have a liquid ty-bar (World Cat) how would a person use this system with that set up?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi Peter, The Bubble Purge G2 Kit is not compatible with Liquid Tie Bar installs. For Cats with Liquid Tie Bar I recommend the Bubble Purge Pro SC, it is designed specifically for Dual Cylinder systems with Liquid Tie Bar. We have full schematics and instructions for Liquid Tie Bar Systems posted in our FAQ section on the website. The Pro DC Kit is a large step up in price compared to the G2, but it is dramatically more efficient working with systems like yours. The link for the Pro DC is below as is a link to the FAQ section which has schematics and PDF instruction kit for your system, and as always if you have questions, email of call and we'll be happy to help anyway we can. outboardst.com/product/bubble-purge-pro-dc/ outboardst.com/frequently-asked-questions/

[@brianpettersen8473]

does the crackling sound in the helm go away eventually with more bleeding or is that permanent?

[@txdukklr]

having the same problem with a ton of crackling on a new system. Going to keep working on the bleeding

[@gunnerwaldmann6337]

Sir.. R all SeaStar Hydraulic steering ram Reseal kits the same??? I would think not?? Thks

[@tylerholland2232]

The seal/end cap part itself is the same regardless of cylinder model or age. If it is a SeaStar cylinder, there is one OEM part they sell in two different OEM kits. HS5167, comes without wrench and is less expensive, HS5157, comes with wrench and is more expensive. If it is a BayStar cylinder, also made by SeaStar, the kits will be different. I strongly recommend that OEM replacement parts are used, but there are one or two aftermarket suppliers who appear to have a decent product, time will tell, and several overseas based suppliers flooding the market with absolute junk. BUYER BEWARE!

[@gunnerwaldmann6337]

My ram seems to be by passing on the inside ... if that oring is bad in the middle of the shaft that’s on the plastic part ?? It will bleed inside??? NO leaks on end caps...unless I still have air in system..

[@daniellefields-damato4251]

what about twin motors and power steering pumps for big boats?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

The Bubble Purge Kit featured in this video is best suited for single helm, single cylinder systems with no power assist or autopilot. For power steering, power assist and/or twin cylinder systems with liquid tie bar etc, we have the Bubble Purge Pro Kit available for sale and rent along with twin cylinder bleed attachments for sale and rent. We have no produced the how-to video for the pro kit yet, but hopefully will have a video up early '19. Feel free to check with Outboard Specialty Tools Support if you have any questions regarding your specific system. Thanks, Tyler

[@daniellefields-damato4251]

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thanks Tyler I will Keep A eye out when you post ...Come to NY and use my boat as a Demo 07 330 Grady White Express!

[@user-wi1os8vc8f]

ماهو سبب الذي يجعل القارب ياخذ يمين ويسار عند السير غير مسيطر عليه اثناء السير

[@steventanner6437]

Me too

[@bryantgwb007]

I have been working on this for 2hr and have a blister on my finger from turning the wheel

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Greg, I am sorry to hear about the job dragging out. With most systems, you should not need to be turning the helm for more than about 15 to 30 minutes to completely fill and purge. Here are a couple of suggestions that Im not sure if you've tried that may help, if you do not see results within 15 minutes of trying these, it is best to stop turning the wheel and please contact us. We will assist any way we can. If the system is completely empty and full or air, sometimes the pistons in the rotary pump can hold air, the easiest way to displace the air is to squeeze the fluid bottle while turning the helm, and it should prime up and start pushing fluid pretty quickly. If the helm is full of fluid and you are just seeing bubbles sloshing around in the Cylinder Attachment, with no fluid starting to fill in, this can be an indicator that the valves in that back of the helm are not seating properly. This is a common problem on older helms, but I am not sure of the age and condition of your system. If the valves are pitted, sticking or not seating properly the helm cant build enough pressure to push fluid through the hoses and may not be able to allow fluid to cycle back in via that passive hose. Hopefully, your helm is in good shape, but if there is a problem with the valves, it likely needs to be repaired or replaced. If you have questions, we are here to help. Please call us on the number listed on the website.

[@rubenrosario6621]

Can I use this system on a twin system Single cylinder? This is for a 2019 Parker 2520.

[@rubenrosario6621]

Correction, twin station single cylinder.

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Generally speaking, yes, the G2 should work fine with dual station and single cylinder as long as there is no autopilot or power assist/power steering in line, then the Bubble Purge Pro SC would be a better/faster choice.

[@petercallinicos]

I have your kit. I have 2 helms. One is lower that the other. Which one should I do first? Thank you.

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi, normally you start with the uppermost helm, and leave the lower helm sealed. Most of the time the lower helm will purge itself and can remain sealed. The lower helm has a non vented fill cap. If you open it and there is fluid in the upper helm and compensating hose, the lower helm is going to start losing fluid pretty quickly and can make the job more time consuming.

[@Biggin69camaro]

I just purchased one of these kits and it didn't come with the short piece coming off the helm. Is that needed?

[@tylerholland2232]

Hi, We removed the short piece of tubing from the kit when we came out with the second generation Purge, and we just haven't updated the video yet. It is not necessary.

[@BillSmithBSartist]

Tyler Holland , does that mean that the tube from the bottle has the threaded fitting for the helm? The pic on your site showing the two tubes doesn’t look like it does.

[@tylerholland2232]

@@BillSmithBSartist There should be two separate brass fittings that come with the kit. One fitting is a fill fitting used to prime/fill the helm and the other fitting is a threaded fitting that threads into the helm fill port and quick connects to the fill tube/bottle.

[@jepsportsbermuda5310]

are you selling the bubble purge system? If so what's the cost?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Yes, we sell the kit on our website for $85.50 with free shipping inside the U.S. here is the link: outboardst.com/collections/hydraulic-mechanical-steering-tools/products/bubble-purge-hydraulic-steering-bleed-and-purge-kit

[@danromano7]

Hi Tyler, need a bubble purge G2, I live in canada, Ontario, where can I get it, for baystar system. Thanks, great tool,

[@tylerholland2232]

Hi Dan, the G2 is fully compatible with BayStar. Here's the link to the product page on our website. We have a flat rate shipping option for Canada as well as expedited shipping options. outboardst.com/product/bubble-purge-hydraulic-steering-bleed-and-purge-kit-ost-pbb-001/

[@shaneswanson6282]

Hi Tyler, can i have the link I'm in Australia I'm looking for a clean independent way to bleed 150 Yamaha cheers

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

outboardst.com/product/bubble-purge-hydraulic-steering-bleed-and-purge-kit-ost-pbb-001/ Cheers man

[@1hovermale]

I have to replace a hydraulic hose on my brand new system due to a faulty hose from seastar. Which means I'll have to remove hose and let all fluid drain out ..then refill after hose replacement. I was going to use this method to fill my bone dry system after the repair. I noticed in your video your system only required 1 quart. Aren't most sea star systems a 2 quart fill? Awesome video ...thanks !

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Fluid quantity usually varies a bit depending on the size of the boat and steering system configuration: single helm/dual station or multiple cylinders, power assist etc. If it is roughly a 20ish foot boat with single helm/single cylinder it usually holds about a quart. If I am flushing the old fluid out of the system, I usually chase it with new fluid. A full flush, fill, bleed with this method will consume between 1 and 2 quarts.

[@jeffjue4648]

Does air in the line make you steering feel like gears grinding alittle? I still need to bleed mine more I believe. Just the grinding part has me curious.

[@ahndeux]

If you have air in the line, it would either make a squeak noise or slip. Another way to tell is your steering is spongy or non-responsive. The cylinder should be moving within 10-15 degrees of turning the wheel either direction. Grinding noise sounds like you have rust / sludge in the helm. If your helm is in salt water and it not been flushed each year, it most likely have rust sludge inside. I know because I just rebuilt my buddy's Seastar helm just last night. It was caked with sludge on the bottom of the helm. Look at your hydraulic fluid. If you have Seastar fluid, it should be clear yellow. If you see a brown tint in it, its all rust. If I can show you the pictures of the rebuilt helm inside, you would be shocked at how much rust it can get inside. The seastar helms suck because it has open vents and that allows water to get inside.

[@jeffjue4648]

@@ahndeux thanks for replying back. Now i have narrowed it down to maybe a bad hydraulic pump. No air in system and when i turn all the way to the left I feel like a grinding feel. All the way to the right is normal. What do you think this could be?

[@ahndeux]

@@jeffjue4648 Do you mean the hydraulic steering helm? If you have grinding on one side but not the other, the most likely culprit is your hydraulic helm. More specifically, its in the check valves inside your helm. If the helm has been in salt water for years, there is a good chance the grittiness is due to rust. Here are two ways to quickly suspect rusting. First, remove your fill plug on top and look at the o ring seals. If its cracked and has gaps, there is a good chance water has gotten in over the years. Second, if you can drain some fluid out on the purge valve into a clear container, look at the fluid carefully. If it has a brown tint or you seem small particles, there is a good chance water got in too. If you used the recommended hydraulic fluid, it should be a nice clear yellow. If its even slightly brown, definitely rust sludge inside.

[@ahndeux]

@@jeffjue4648 The way the hydraulic helm pump works is, it has a series of cylinders inside. The cylinder has a spring underneath it. When you rotate the helm, it slides the tip of the cylinders along a plate that is set at an angle. The angle makes the cylinders rotate and pump fluid. After the cylinder, it goes to a check valve to on the left and right side of the outlet. The fluid then goes into a shuttle valve that flips from the left and right. Because of the way the pump is designed, it should be the same amount of resistance or grittiness on either direction. However, if you have grittiness on one side, it means the check valves or the shuttle valve is working properly. More likely you will see that its easier to turn on one side than the other if the shuttle valve is stuck. Instead of pumping fluid into the correct output port, it may be recirculating back into the the other port. On the exit end of the port, there is also two more pressure relief valves. It is just a ball with a spring on the end. This is designed to open if the pressure is too high. If there is debris in those ports, it may be opening and closing and causing the "grittiness" feeling you had. Until you open it up and rebuild it, it is hard to tell which area of the pump has issues. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnu4m4p7ZtRmgtE

[@jeffjue4648]

@@ahndeux Thanks Tyler. Do you do rebuilds? I have been looking for kits but no luck. My emails is [e-mail].

[@aaroncarter2600]

never mind.. just heard and got the answer as i was typing.. lol

[@user-dz9sc2ph7y]

Why no say left or right

[@captgregbrown5773]

Looks like you need to take care of that Steering arm?

[@tcharlescarte5979]

I have twin motors, whats the process for that?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

A bit more information is needed to narrow down the best way. Is your steering system single or dual cylinder, with or without power assist or autopilot?

[@tcharlescarte5979]

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 It's on a 21' Sport Cat with one steering helm, no power assist or auto pilot. Helm sends fluid to two seastar rams mounted on 90 hp 4 stroke Suzuki outboards. Hope this information is helpful. Thank you for responding!

[@matthewmorgan6047]

Does your seastar rebuild kit come with seals?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi Matthew, no the Bubble Purge Kit does not come with seals. We do sell SeaStar seal kits separately on the website. We also sell as well as rent the tool kit required for complete tear down, rebuild and bleed on all SeaStar cylinders. The SeaStar rebuild tools kit comes with the Bubble Purge kit in it.

[@matthewmorgan6047]

Outboardst.com Outboard Specialty Tools sorry I’m confused. So the rebuild kit comes with the bubble purge and the tools but not seals?

[@steran50]

Hi, Is your website up and running ?. I have tried to get to it, but I get an error.

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi Stewart, outboardst.com should be running normally now, was down for maintenance for a while last night.

[@steran50]

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thanks for that. I just tried it now and all good.

[@sharpiehawkes7176]

Surprised no one fills the jumper tube with oil before connecting... empty (air filled) tube introduces more air to be purged

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Yes, that's definitely true, and definitely will add job time to remove the additional air. This is something that didnt cross my mind back when I created this tool, but after working with it for a while I realized the same thing and posted short video on how to prime the Cylinder Attachment before connecting it to a steering system and adding a bunch of air. Definitely makes the job go faster. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5e3gpVnhcutidk

[@edavis7350]

Where to buy this system???

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Here is the link to the Bubble Purge Listing on our website. If you have questions about the kit or any other OST tools, contact me any time. Thanks outboardst.com/product/bubble-purge-hydraulic-steering-bleed-and-purge-kit-ost-pbb-001/

[@closequartersoutdoors2726]

Hey can this be used to bleed out and fill a baystar? If so I will purchase. Thanks in advance

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Yes, Bubble Purge works with BayStar quick connect/tee fittings and Helm.

[@davidbartlettsr1241]

Tyler - I purchased the kit after watching the video. If anyone reading this is skeptical on purchasing such a kit, let me say that " I had my boat into the dealership that sold it to me, and 3 other dealerships and one private mechanic to get the non responsive "spongy" feeling out of the hydraulic steering and NOT ONE SINGLE OUTBOARD MECHANIC was able to fix it..! I used this kit alone, and was able to get ALL OF THE AIR out in about 45 minutes...!! If you think that air is not the enemy on hydraulic steering, I would challenge any boater to come through our inlet on an outgoing tide. This inlet is considered to be one of the 7 worse on the east coast. The motor has NOT been this responsive in the 13 years I have owned it, but thanks to Tyler's invention (a.k.a. the "kit") it works like it should have all along. Worth every dime. Tyler you are a frigging genius...!! Now for your next project, figure out a way to jump out those dang neutral safety starting switches that sit down in the cowl, so that we don't need to jiggle the handle when the boat won't start - do that and you are my hero..>!

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi David, We really appreciate the feedback and are always happy to hear we've been able to help! Thanks

[@user-bp1sw1wh8e]

good job. i wonder something. when motor is moved to port side or starboard, how to lock the engine no movement? and one more. when motor is moved to port side. Did you turn wheel counter -clock wise?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Usually If I want to lock the cylinder into place, I use a clamp, such as vice grips with something to protect the steering rod, usually a piece of pex tubing, blue with 5/8" interior diameter (if I remember correctly). This clamp method is in our other video featuring the G2 kzbin.info/www/bejne/eajSnXlnq66LfaM at minute 18:00. Usually when I have the motor turned out all the way to port or starboard lock, I turn the wheel in both directions, but give it a few more turns towards the direction the motor is already locked out, i.e. if the motor is turned all the way to the port lock, which is done by steering hard to starboard, I will continue to steer to starboard in order to push as much fluid as possible into the port side of the cylinder bore to remove as much air as possible. Then you can lock the cylinder down if you want, and turn to port and close out as much of the starboard bore as possible while priming it fully.

[@user-bp1sw1wh8e]

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 i have watched your other video clip in youtube for purge solution. thanks for your reply. have a nice day. :-)

[@TajMajalSailing]

Thanks for the video! I purchased the Bubble Purge System to bleed air after replacing the cylinder seals on my Seastar unit. First, I want to flush out and replace the old hydraulic fluid in the system prior to bleeding the air. Can you give me advice on the best way to do this?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi David, flushing the system is easy with the Bubble Purge kit. All you need to do is connect one end of the cylinder attachment to one of the bleed fittings with the fill tube attachment connected to the free end of the cylinder attachment with the open end of the fill tube emptying into a drain pan, bucket, bottle etc. Then open the bleed fitting, turn the steering wheel gently to push fluid out of the open line. If the steering wheel builds resistance, its because you are pushing on the closed off hose/bleeder, turn wheel in the other direction gently until you see fluid coming out of the cylinder attachment/fill tube. Turn the wheel repetitively until all fluid has left the open hose. Close off the open bleeder, move the cylinder attachment to the opposite bleeder, open the bleeder and then turn steering wheel in opposite direction. Once the system is empty, it may help to flush a small amount of clean fluid through the system before you do the final fill and bleed. If you have any questions during the process, give us a call. Thanks, Tyler

[@turner593]

could this be used on a dual steering system ?

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Hi Dave, I need a bit more info about your system. This kit works with Dual Station/Dual Helm, but if you are referring to Dual Cylinder, it depends on the configuration. Can send send more details on the steering system such as number of helms/cylinders, autopilot, power assist etc? Thanks

[@aaroncarter2600]

no pin pric nessasary

[@nicholematuro980]

When I attach my cylinder attachment and open the bleed fitting the fluid is pouring out . I replaced the nipples and still having the same issue. Any thoughts ?

[@1stzard]

Poor boat needs some CRC anti corrosive spray on the metals

[@kenlay6004]

You really don't tell us why you are doing what you are doing like you show the bubbles in the hose but you don't tell us which way you are turning the wheel etc....

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Ken, I apologize, this video is pretty old and needs to be updated. We have learned quite alot about this product since I created it back in 2018ish. So, at its most simple, when the cylinder attachment is connected to the bleeders, with the bleeders opened, at that point the entire system is basically a hydraulic pump (the helm) with a closed loop (starboard and port hydraulic steering hoses linked together by the Cylinder Attachment via the open bleed fittings on the cylinder). By turning the wheel with a constant feed of fluid coming from the helm reservoir the pressurized hose will push fluid and any air in the system in a cycle where it is constantly circulated through the valve system in the back of the helm. If the system has air in it, the pressure build up from the pump constantly feeding new fluid into the system will compress the air slightly forcing it back through the valves in the helm and into the helm reservoir where the air decompresses and vents out at the reservoir fill into the Bottle Fill Tube. So , in this video, I do quite alot of changing direction, which over the last few years and countless steering repairs later, I've realized isn't necessary. You can literally connect up the G2 system, open the bleeders and steer in one direction only and the air will leave the system. I'd still recommend changing directions at some point in order to encourage the more stubborn and smaller bubbles to vent, and then close it up and test.

[@chuysaventuraypezca1301]

to much Camara movement

[@daveengstrom9250]

This is confusing. I sugest FIRST telling what you are attempting to do, and how these parts work. Then get someone else to hold that camera. You repeated yourself many times.

[@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631]

Dave, Thanks for your feedback. This was one of my earlier productions, and I agree, the selfie cam is not ideal.