Howdy DAZ

What's the difference between the No 4 oven and No 5 oven?

Nice job cleaning that stove up.

I just bought the 64 it’s smaller than this, missing the flame spreader but I was lucky to get one from base camp in Peterborough. Gentleman there has an encyclopaedic knowledge on all things paraffin.

painful

These things are supposed to supply plug in loads only and are typically configured for IT (the earth terminal on the case if even present can be staked to the ground) operation (even when connected to the mains for charging since this appears to have a mains inlet for charging on it) and in several countries by law no earthing system at all. I class operation is perfectly safe as is. In order for a person to be shocked (or worse) a double fault must be present. Please do not listen to random people on the internet telling you to form a N/E link on these things but if you absolutely must you absolutely should be using an RCD downstream of the N/E link that will permanently (until manually turned back on) interrupt supply. If the person that told you to do this was ukelectricalsystems, which it appears to be the case, that guy is an idiot and I say that completely unreservedly. He has absolutely no idea about electrical in the UK let alone other parts of the world. In reality you shouldn't be taking advice from me either, beyond the sentence below. If you have any concerns regarding an earthing system for your inverter employ an actual licenced electrician to check the device for correct isolation (there are proper testing procedures in the Britt Standard) and advise you what is actually necessary to give you a safe configuration.

You have earth bond for faults because the mains income from the grid is referenced to ground, meaning any fault can return to the power source and trip a safety device, so the power wont go through a person that is also refenced to the ground. The inverter is not referenced to ground. But I think you device has linked the neutral to earth to get the same affect. I'm not sure if that's a good idea, just my two penny's worth.

Hmmm.

Great stuff mate! My Valor 410 radiant heater works the same way,.👍

Thx u

I missed this DAZ !😮😅

Where can you get them and roughly how much

It would be better to connect the charge and discharge cables to the #2 and #4 batteries. This would be a more balanced connection. Your connections to the #1 and #5 batteries are putting most of the work on those batteries, and the middle battery is working the least.

Nice. The ice will build if you don't have enough food in the fridge, and it is humid outside. Also, the freezer was preventing you from turning it on and off.

This is lead-acid so you dont even have HALF that in usable electricity. There's nothing better than a LIFEPo4 battery bank, you can drain them to 0 with no harm, and the C rating is way better.

Was wondering if I could get your input on a setup I’m doing for an ice fishing shack. I have 2 12v 300ah batteries that I want to run in parallel. I also have a victron shunt. I was wondering how I go about hooking this up. The end goal is to connect the 12v heater (alligator clips), 12 volt lights (also alligator clips), as well as an inverter (yet to be purchased).

Everyone gotta start somewhere, you'll eventually move to lifepo4 because, 1. lead acid should not be stored in the main house. 2. Lifepo4 is actually now cheaper than lead acid. 3. You'll cut your battery space by half with 2x more capacity at current prices. 4. You will need to change lead acid batteries many times in your lifetime, lifepo4 on the other hand will probably outlive you.

Nice fridge/freezer! I look forward to yourvreport on its energy consumption.

Wow , that is a nice one DAZ

Hi Daz. Thanks for your product testing and clear showing of the improved flame patterns, I forgot to mention when I sent it to you ha had the same thing closing the lid too, when you pack the side wind shields make sure that the little catches on the bottoms are in the down position before you latch them into the lid, then the lid closes without pushing on it.

First

Why lead acid ? 😮 lifepo4 half the batteries,half the weight, last for ever !!! Same price now, probably cheaper 😮

If you bought some copper busbar, 30 mm x 10 mm and drilled and tapped it for 8 mm metric than he would have a shorter path to the bus bar with equal length conductors, and that way you’ll get the true benefit of the equal length because then the resistance between each conductor will be very close. Don’t be afraid to add a lot of charge controllers in parallel either because they will work together and you’ll start to fall in love with Solar panels. I really enjoy seeing people build their own off grid solar systems it’s very rewarding. Thank you.

Your battery wires are too thin being 35 mm² they should be 120 mm² are in North America 4/0 heavy wire. You should also have class T fusing to protect from an over current condition. I have designed and installed battery-based solar systems for over 30 years and I have done some that are giant 12 V systems that have hundreds of amps of Solar input. Also, don’t block the top of the shunt because they get hot under lots of load otherwise looks like you’ve got a pretty clean system.

Very nice 👌 👍

If not lithium you only have a 650ah bank, not 1300

Thanks for doing this video, I've recently acquired a valour Modulette, a quick fettle and a new wick and it's off should keep the wife and kids warm.

HOWDY DAZ ❤

Like the precharge circuit you've added in. I saw a vid that said this was only necessary for 2000w and higher, but I got the same resistor (25W, 30 Ohms) but think I made an arse when connecting mine (1000W)up, wasn't sure if the inverter was meant to be switched on or off so left it on as assumed the circuits all needed to be open, anyway after 10 secs removed the resistor and went to connect the cable and the bloody thing still sparked....No damage luckily!

Can this oven be used on a Coleman 2 burner?

Very nice work, but you should have opted for a 48V system using lithium ion phosphate batteries instead. It is more efficient cheaper and longer lasting, I am speaking from experience. I had a 12V lead acid battery system and switched to 48V and love it.

Be very cautious with those inverters they often use an Isolated Terra arrangement for earthing. Also why not use Victron most people have better solar performance than other units and the inverter chargers are great. I can tell you victron is significantly better for future proofing and monitoring.

Very lovely system 💞

Nice job.

Thats Awesome Daz! ❤❤❤♨️♨️♨️🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧💯💯💯

Sweet Daz! Copper! 😎🤘🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧💯💯💯👏👏👏 Fantastic Bro! 😝👊

Wow! They Are Cool Brother! ❤❤❤😝👊🪔🪔🪔🏮🏮🏮🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧💯💯💯👏👏👏👏

Great Job Daz! 👏👏👏👏👏😎🤘👏🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧💯💯💯

First

@daz I suggest you transition to 48V system. First is mainly due to safety concern, 1300AH of battery capacity is no joke. Second, large amperage is very cost inefficient, you can do more on the 48V system whereby you can maximize the full potential of your energy storage. 3rd you can recycle all your big AWG wires in 48V system giving less resistance therefore you can maximized your output energy.

super clean job.. very nice

Sound level too low :)

Very nice built for a person just starting out ....I have always like the 12 system (have 8 batt of my own,but in 24v ) because you can do everything from 12v to 48v so when you want to upgrade the only thing that you need is a inverter (24/48)

Totally new to this game- I've this week bought 2x Renogy 12v 100ah LiFePo4 batteries(200ah in parallel), a Renogy 20a AC charger and a Renogy 1000w inverter with inbuilt "transfer switch" (all sitting in the corner with cables, crimpers, lugs, DC circuit breaker, Renogy shunt and monitor, MRBF fuses/holders) waiting for me to decide where to put it). My system is purely to run the fridge, TV, stereo and PC for a planned outage (they're coming, the leaflets campaign is them telling us load shedding is here -and some of my missuses NHS elderly vulnerable clients been told they're getting generators) and to back that up have ordered a P1PE 2.2kw inverter generator and some decent size fuel cans and petrol stabiliser. Site generators are cheaper/more powerful but guzzle the petrol in comparison without any "Eco" setting I've looked into solar and here in the Scottish Highlands when I'd need it most it's a dead loss, thus "damage limitation" with this system.... Must admit a big box of candles/matches and a new Scrabble board/pack of cards was an alternative lol.... In an ideal world 48v would be the way to go with 3000w inverter and 100ah rack mounted batteries, but as I say, solar 5 months of the year where I am is a disaster. Got friends out in Tenerife and even leaving their solar panels at "winter tilt" they get 6 solar hours a day every day of the year almost (but then they have major issues with water supply, I certainly don't!!) If your batteries are lead acid doesn't that mean your batteries are effectively halved to 650ah as you cannot discharge below 50%?? Renogy advised me to set the alarm for 20ah so getting 180ah for £350 from 2 small, light batteries (got them on an ebay sale from Renogy). I'm not going beyond 2, my brain is frazzled enough from 10 days crash course in all this and still feel like I know so little!!! Maybe another 12v system just for lights and 12v appliances might be a good idea too.... Or could maybe take from this system, might need to investigate that rather than losing capacity running everything through the inverter to 240v? Oh and Will Prowse and "Cleversolarpower by Nick" if you haven't already watched their channels.... And good job getting further towards self sufficiency👋. I put this off for too long but from what I gather from Will Prowse's latest video today this is the cheapest batteries have ever been (He got one for $155 and said they once were $900 not that long ago !!)

Nice job very tidy, Have you got any links for where you got your cable, lugs and circuit breakers please, Thank you

Why did you choose 12 volts instead of 48 volts or 24 volts? The efficiency loss from the high amperage is a concern. Lovely set up by the way

I'm so confused, are those car starting batteries? They have posts on the top?! Are they deep cycle or starting

Very nice job! Save up and switch to LiFePo4 batteries and equipment and get more Ah with less batteries and longer life.

I don't see your battery video yet, I'll check back.

How was the result?