Thank you! I’ll add that to my list of videos thank you for the request!

Ah thanks for letting me know. I’ll send it to you.

Go sign up on my website again and it should send you a new email with an updated link. Or you can email me and I’ll send it to you 👍

I grew up going with my dad to print houses to proof his catalogs and they were printed litho, of course he always called it offset but same same :)

That’s certainly one way to do it

Can’t say I’ve ever heard of anyone using it but maybe someone will chime in

@startupscreenprinting my Epson SC-P400 does not recognize new ink cartridges. I've done all I can do to rectify the issue to no avail. Very frustrating.

My pleasure!

I hang them up as I’m printing so I’m not stacking hot shirts and risking ghosting of the prints onto other shirts. Also it saves space over having to have places to stack.

I appreciate that you watched and shared your thoughts. It would be great to know what parts of the video you found helpful or which sections might need a bit more detail. Constructive feedback like that helps me create content that’s valuable for everyone here.

Yeah the price is dumb! I love my new $200 printer. Maybe I should buy more of them for when they get discontinued and go up in price like the 1430 haha

no that should be fine, i would recommend using a heat gun to dry it to touch then finish curing with the heat press.

Thank you!

Styrene shop.startupscreenprinting.com/b/on-press-registration-card

I’ll try to address this in a video soon

@startupscreenprinting thanks 👍

Yup dye migration happens any time you are heating polyester or garment dyed apparel so it can happen with any type of printing. Even with triblends you can get some color changing if you heat them too high.

Normally water based ink needs to be cured to 320° for a couple of minutes but to do that you need a large forced air dryer. Since I don’t have that, I add the low cure additive and it allows me to heat the print to 260° for just a few seconds and it continues to cure chemically over the next 48 hours.

Yup you can. A couple weeks should be fine as long as they are on a light safe environment. I’ve had screens coated for up to a month and was able to expose them just fine.

Every Friday at 1pm MT! Hope to see you on there next week.

I just printed a bunch of fleece hoodies last week and it worked great!

Check out filmdirectonline.com for compatible printers, there are several

it's not true. The shop i managed years ago had a laser printer and it's all we used. The benefit is you don't need RIP software as RIP is built into laser printers. One of the reasons most shops use inkjet is because laser toner is more expensive than ink. But the biggest reason is because laser printers struggle to get a really dark film so you typically have to spray the printed film with toner enhancer in order to darken the print before you use it to expose a screen. So it adds a step to the process. Plus it's not UV blocking like the black dye kits you can get for inkjet printers. So the quick answer is yes you can use a laser printer, i did for years. But an inkjet will often get better results and is a better investment.

@@startupscreenprinting Thanks, I did notice you mentioned this at the end of the vidoe. Thank you for your help.

Haha love this 🤙🏻

Yeah if they’re super sticky that can be an issue. Maybe try keeping the adhesive about an inch from the edge of the platens. Also try not to drag the shirt across the whole platten, have it raised a bit and that could help.

Pretty tacky with the printgrips I have. When I was using adhesive I’d keep it about an inch from the edges and that helped the shirt not get stuck. Also try to lift the shirt as you load so it doesn’t drag. Hope that helps!

Sorry I’m not quite sure. I’ve only ever used these green galaxy products.

@@startupscreenprintinghow to you print photos?? I’m using white water based ink for dark shirts. Would thinning out help the image??

That depends on what result you're looking for and what issues you're having. The purpose in this video is to thin the white ink so that it stays wet in the screens for longer runs but thinning it also means you may have to print twice to get a bright white print on a dark shirt. What is the issue you're having with your prints?

@@startupscreenprinting the print is not very sharp. I noticed my ink is thickening up so I was going to buy a new batch to see if that helps. I watched a video and reduced ink was mentioned. Plastisol was also recommended but I print at home so water based sounds like a better option for cleanup.

sometimes sharpness of the image can have more to do with your screen or your squeegee/technique. But if the ink is thickening, then that can also cause smudging so thinning can help. I assume you're printing on a 156 or 200 mesh screen?

My pleasure!

I haven’t ever tried it but from what I can tell it could be a great solution if you already have a laser. It’s not going to be great for large quantity orders, but for smaller stuff it should be great. Similar to the new Pigskins and Pigtails press from Ryonet. I think both are good presses that you could certainly start a viable business with. Maybe I’ll talk more about this during this week’s lunch break live on Friday.

Find somewhere local for sure vs vista print or submit a quote for my print shop I’m happy to help. www.alpineapparelco.com

I don’t think so

I don’t think so

actually since this printer is a high quality photo printer, you don't actually HAVE to have uv ink to get a pretty great film positive, but it helps to use a rich black color in photoshop/illustrator when printing the films. I do, however, have the black dye conversion kit that i discussed in the video and it works even better than regular ink and it has the UV blocking properties. But even without it, you can typically get by with just a single film and rarely, if ever, need to double layer with this type of printer.

@@startupscreenprinting Interesting thanks for the reply. I guess I should use this printer. I do know I have canon pixma IPX which I bought 8 years ago. So just to confirm, with the Epson printer you first started out, if you used high quality UV blocking inks, was it able to block UV light with just one film print and not requiring to use double layers?

@ShopperPlug if you use a printer that’s capable of running UV blocking dye, then you shouldn’t have to double layer. Even with regular ink if the printer is a high quality photo printer you shouldn’t have to double layer on most things.

@@startupscreenprinting Thanks for the reply. Understood. For the Epson printer, which uv blocking inks would you recommend that is the best? Dmax or from Fill Direct or something else?

@ShopperPlug from my experience I’ve actually had better results with the dye from film direct than the dmax. I found that the dmax didn’t block as much and it clogged the heads more often.

If you watched the full video you’ll see I don’t use this printer anymore. I now use a canon ip8720 with all black uv dye cartridges.

@@startupscreenprinting Thanks for the reply. I've seen the entire video. I was referring on your experiences based on the older wf-3620 model if you've ever used special UV blocking inks. My assumption is that using UV blocking inks on the wf-3620 should provide a good print without needing to use double layer film, but I just wanted to confirm with your past experiences. I also avoid Canon printers because they use thermal-based print heads, which only work on certain limited inks designed to be used with high temperatures. Piezoelectric print heads are the best in using multiple range of inks and it is patented by Epson. I'll take a look on your Canon video.

I see, yeah I do use the UV dye in my current printer and it's a great choice for anyone printing films for screen printing. The thing to look out for is if there are cartridges available for your printer. For screen printing, Epson and Canon are the printers that most often have the cartridges available. It's known as an "All black ink conversion" and then you'd use whatever dye option is meant for those cartridges and printer. For example, some dyes only work in canon or epson and not both. For my current printer, I purchased new refillable cartridges from filmdirectonline.com along with a black dye meant for canon printers and it's working very, very well. The dye has the UV blocking properties and when combined with a good software RIP, you get a really dense, opaque black print that works great for exposing screens. I only showed the WF printer in this video to inform people that they "could" start with just any inkjet printer they have so that beginners can be encouraged to give it a try, but as mentioned in the video i warned them that if the design has large areas of ink, that it can be a bit transparent and cause issues during exposure, hence double-layering the film, but even that presents it's own issues. At this time, the WF printer i used to use, and many others like it, do not have black ink conversion kits available, so the best option is to upgrade to a new printer that does have a kit available and make that swap from day 1. The Epson 1430 printer shown in this video has long been the standard for film printers for screen printers, but since it's no longer made it's difficult to find them and to get parts. I also found that the dye would clog the print heads way more often in the Epson printer than with my new canon printer, so I'm a canon fan for now. Plus, at the low price tag of these canon printers, one could very easily have a backup printer (most shops do) ready for if/when there are print head issues.

I did, yes. It’s Kastlfel

Yes, they just usually have larger platens which makes loading them straight a bit easier, but still a potential issue

Sometimes it depends on the quality as to whether image trace works well or not. And sometimes if you can get one section or color good I duplicate and change image trace settings to get the other color and then combine it all. Otherwise doing a separation in Photoshop might work. Send me the file and I might could do some videos to post using it that would show you how I’d do it

Glad to hear that!

Glad to hear that!

If you’re asking if it’s ok to use comet as an under base the answer is yes, I do all the time :)

Not very often, probably once a month or so

Any issues with printing ever? I have the uv black out ink/ refillable cartridges as well and sometimes I’ll get inconsistent prints. Faded areas. Typically at the top or bottom of the print even after thoroughly cleaning the heads.

@dalecooke6644 I had that more with the DMAX kit than I have with the current kit I got from filmdirectonline.com I also found that I get that sometimes when then ink gets low too so refilling them has helped me

Wow thank you for the kind words!

You don’t have to sign up. There’s a download option on the Dropbox page even if you don’t have an account

Thanks! Yeah garages can be tight. Good luck!

Sorry it’s long gone :)

Great!

I’ll see what I can do about that. Maybe a video showing the whole process

Always happy to help!

🤷🏼‍♂️ ok haha, whatever works for you! 😎

I’m not seeing any all black ink kits available for that printer so I would recommend not using it. I always check filmdirectonline.com and solutionsforscreenprinters.com to see if they have ink kits for the printer I’m considering. If you do want to use that L8050 then it will “work” but you aren’t going to get great films and you will have issues during exposure. The ink just isn’t opaque enough and it doesn’t block UV. At a minimum, I’d say if you print in black be sure to use a rich black (check my latest shorts) so that it’s printing with more just the black ink cartridge

It lasts a long time, several months. And no you can’t refill the stock ones with uv ink

haha what can i say, i like to be thorough 🤣