Clip the tabs off the inner cowling and it's 30 minutes from picking up the first tool to putting down the last, without rushing. Probably faster once you have done it a few times. It's really not the task some make it out to be.

You can buy a dongle which retains settings when you turn off the key.

Do what? R&D for tuning motorcycles?

@@exothermal.sprocket destroy the air box ,not understand what the air box does , fluid dynamics .

@@victorgonza4528 What the dyno numbers have been showing is that airbox design is not optimized entirely for fluid dynamics, but rather emissions and noise compliance. Also, as a tuner in the powersports space, you're interested in making potential modifications to OEM equipment that offer a large performance increase for a very minimal cost/zero cost modification. And how are you going to find this out unless you hack up OEM parts (minimally or maximally)? I wouldn't accuse Nate of not understanding what an airbox is for, unless you enjoy being obtuse or making baseless judgements.

@@exothermal.sprocket we disagree then ,I get it , check out the bernoullis principle in fluid dynamics

@@victorgonza4528 Where are you getting the idea that myself, or the host of this channel don't understand these things? Have you asked us to host a course on it, take out a whiteboard and explain it, or take the time to speak about it?

Impossible to simulate real conditions in a dyno room. That's why there's data-logging while out riding on the highways and byways and racetracks. A dyno cannot simulate part-throttle resistance and air pressure resistance or hills as most of the dyno machines are inertia machines (acceleration testing). The best way to get real-world tuning done is data-logging. Any tuner that isn't doing this is cutting corners for tunes and cannot get the best overall tune possible. 2wdw does data-logging.

That's not actually ALWAYS the case. Obviously dyno graphs only display WOT with perfect accuracy, but that doesn't mean the improvements aren't present at lower throttle opening percentages. When the airflow improvements are present at every portion of the TPS v RPM fuel map, you are actually seeing that engine performance improvements throughout the entire throttle range. You're also forgetting (or just don't know) that maximizing torque at lower engine RPM does not always mean just slamming the throttle plates wide open; you can't actually create linear throttle mapping right off the bottom of the map on these engines or you'll create a significant bog. These sorts of ETV issues are actually why much of this area is controlled by requested torque maps (which are created in an ETV v Ignition Timing v Engine Load calculation table) in almost all modern automotive applications and in some of the most modern motorcycle ECUs (finally). On this specific application, the massive torque improvements are present throughout almost the entirety of the bottom end (regardless of throttle position). Obviously, yes, the top end improvements are massively more prevalent at WOT than at light throttle inputs because the throttle maps weren't restrictive in those portions of the mapping to begin with. TLDR: The bottom end gains are there everywhere, and the throttle response is MASSIVELY improved with our custom mapping. We already have dozens of folks that have sent in their ECUs to us for these bikes, and they're reporting (and thrilled about) exactly what I'm describing here 😎🤘

I don't follow what you mean? It looks like the gains were huge everywhere so even at 4500 RPM you're still getting massive gains. If you look at the chart, it gained everywhere so no matter where you are you have way more power than you did. No?

The throttle is not an on/off switch. You turn it, you sent a request for increased torque, a boat load of systems interpret your request and make the engine produce more of what you want. Don't over-think it. Yet, wouldn't you like to know what the full potential of an engine is at all RPM? Yes. That's why 2wdw tunes proper AFR's for partial to full throttle, data-logging out in the real world, not merely on an inertia dyno roller in a still-air environment (except for cooling fans).

@@ar2043 An engine is an air pump but to make power you need fuel, so the engine at a given fuel and air mixture will make X amount of power, the dyno only graphs wide open throttle. So for example if you are at 10,000rpm at wide open throttle ant your engine makes 100hp, if you are at 10,000 rpm at 25, 50, 75% throttle due to math and physics your bike will not be making what the dyno shows because you arent supplying the engine with a means to make that power. So are you making more power? Yes, but are you making the same amount the dyno is showing you at any point other then wide open? No, because physics and math.

I think you are correct, the us epa restrictions take the top end off this motor, which Ryan F9 explains

That's my guess. I don't think the engineers were trying to maximize intake flow. I think the "third snorkel" is more intended as a drain, and the spiral ducts and 90° bends are intended to let rain or water vapor spin out and collect on the walls, then drain down and out rather than being ingested or saturating the air filter.

13:1 is basically about the ideal ratio that stays safe and makes good power. Running leaner than that can make a small bit more power, but has a much higher risk of damage. Running richer than that typically looses some power. But, occasionally an engine will want a little different ratio to make power. A lot of older engines like to run richer because the burn isn’t as efficient for instance. Generally the air box size is limited by the tank design and there isn’t space for a bigger air box.

If u havent tuned yours at all may i ask if the throttle is jerky on the close/open in the 4th gen?? 2nd gen owner if u rode any 2nd gen u would know what im talking about (;

Sorry don't have a dyno but my bike is equipped with the same tuning hardware so I do all my own tuning with each part change. The on off jerkiness you describe is probably the oem fuel decel cutoff setting that most tuners turn off. The 2nd , 3rd, and 4th gens are all going to feel very similar with the same type of tunning applied. Bike is not that different, and Yamaha didn't suddenly change their oem tunning style from one to the next. None if these mods are really needed or useful on the street aside from an actual ecu flash. But there's nothing wrong with wanting mods because you like to mod.

I didn't notice anything so at the very least it's not substantial.