I never do the double tap thing. I know a lot of reloaders do, but personal preference I suppose.

I have taken the 2day California Pistol and Rifle Association Metallic reloading coarse plus Ive done a few batches of 45 ACP,44 Special and 44 Magnum loads.I learned something new by watching this video (priming after using the bell die rather than before). Nothing beats experience and I appreciate you taking the time to show us rookies tips and tricks that will save us aggravation

To be able to apply a consistent crimp from one case to the next they'll need to be all the same exact length. And to crimp, or not to crimp, is not the question, but rather what type of crimp is! 1) ALL cartridges that are to be loaded in revolvers are to be crimped to negate bullet-pull, otherwise the recoil will cause the bullets to pull out of the cases. Whereby locking the cylinder up. Also crimping the rounds helps the powder to build up pressure that is need to help itself burn properly 2) All cartridges to be loaded in a semi-autos are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, other wise the bullets will get jammed back into the cases due to either the recoil of the gun jamming the magazine against the bullet, or due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 3) All cartridges that are to be loaded into a gun that has a tube feed are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, during recoil as the weight of the bullets atop the others will drive the bullets before them farther into the cases, and will get jammed back into the cases even more so due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 4) All cartridges that are to be loaded into a bolt action with a magazine are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, other wise the bullets will get jammed back into the cases due to either the recoil of the gun jamming the magazine against the bullet, or due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. . Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 5) All rounds (regardless of the type of gun they will be used in) that will be getting jostled around in transport should be crimped, other wise they could succumb to bullet set-back. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 6) Also crimping the rounds helps the powder to build up pressure that is needed for the powder to burn properly. Otherwise if the bullet is spit out of the case, whereby jammed into the rifling, before the pressure can build up adequately enough can cause hang fires as well as blow a gun apart. 7) Last and least of all, the only cartridges that do not absolutely need to be crimped are those that will be hand feed into the chamber one at a time, against paper targets. And if one has a gun that has to be feed by hand, one at a time, that is to be used in any real life situation, such as self-defense, hunting, or perhaps just plain old plinking, should be crimping their rounds to negate bullet set-back due to the bullets getting jostled around in their pockets, etc... And Now I repeat myself, at the risk of being rude, that only people that hand feed their rounds into the chamber one at a time, for the purpose of playing around with paper targets, can afford to bypass the crimping process! And only listen to their advise if you too are plaining on hand feeding your cartridges one at a time into the chamber against paper target. And as for the rest of us, despite the kind of guns that we may have, should always crimp the rounds, period! Lest the inevitable should happen [a.k.a. - Murphy's Law]! Lee's Factory Crimp Dies are the best on the market, and crimping with them has to be done separately from the seating process. To be able to apply a consistent crimp from one case to the next they'll need to be all the same exact length. Hence a case trimmer is a good tool to have. Personally, I look at each case for primer issues first. Then I de-cap the ones that passed and trash the ones that did not. Now I like to sonic clean first, to soften up the crude, and then wet tumble to really get the cases clean. It may not matter on target, but I will clean mine every time anyway. It just makes me feel (mentally) better about the job/process of reloading. Just like wiping my butt after sitting the throne makes me feel (both mentally as well as physically) a whole lot better than if I didn't. If the cleaning solutions are too acidic or alkaline they will literally leached the zinc from the brass leaving only the copper at the surface behind. If so this will weaken the brass. You can get PH test strips to be sure the cleaning solution is balance between 4 and 5 on the acidic side of the PH scale, or between 6 and 7 on the alkaline side of the PH scale for best results. And even then the brass should not be left for hours on end soaking within the solution as time is not on the side of brass when it comes to slowly leaching the zinc from it in such solutions. The following video explains it best: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoHUfGqvg5VgatE Then dry, lube, resize, and flare. Now I run the cases through a vibratory cleaner with crushed walnut shells to remove all lubricant from them so that the powder and primers are not compromised, and as it is not a good thing to have lubricant on the outside of the cases (or inside the chamber) when firing them in the chamber, which would cause excessive slamming of the cases into the breech, of which they (the breech) are not designed to handle. At this point is where I inspect all cases for crack and other issues, again trashing the rejects. Then I prime, add powder, seat bullet, and last but not least crimp. All on a single stage press.

I like to sonic clean first, to soften up the crude, and then wet tumble to really get the cases clean. It may not matter on target, but I will clean mine every time anyway. It just makes me feel (mentally) better about the job/process of reloading. Just like wiping my butt after sitting the throne makes me feel (both mentally as well as physically) a whole lot better than if I didn't. Running clean brass through the dies helps them to last longer too. If the cleaning solutions are too acidic or alkaline they will literally leached the zinc from the brass leaving only the copper at the surface behind, and this will weaken the brass. You can get PH test strips to be sure the cleaning solution is balance between 4 and 5 on the acidic side of the PH scale, or between 6 and 7 on the alkaline side of the PH scale for best results. And even then the brass should not be left for hours on end soaking within the solution as time is not on the side of brass when it comes to slowly leaching the zinc from it in such solutions. The following video explains it best: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoHUfGqvg5VgatE Then after I size and flare I run the cases through a vibratory cleaner with crushed walnut shells to remove all lubricant from them so that the powder and primers are not compromised, and as it is not a good thing to have lubricant on the outside of the cases (or inside the chamber) when firing them in the chamber, which would cause excessive slamming of the cases into the breech, of which they (the breech) are not designed to handle. It also allows the gasses to leak between the case and chamber whereby gas cutting the cylinder leaving pitting in the cylinder(s), which will make subsequent rounds of brass harder to eject as they swell into the pitting.

I weigh every charge! I use a powder thrower to dispense powder into the scale pan, a trickler to round off the charge weight on a beam scale, and then I set the pan onto a digital scale as a double check. If the two scales do not agree I recheck the beam scale poises and re-zero the digital scale. Normally it is the digital scale that has drifted, but once it was a beam scale poise got moved by accident. Either way all my powder charges get checked three times. Twice by scales and once with a visual, in the loading block, after I have charged a batch before seating bullets. I do what I do for safety, not speed, cause as the old saying goes "SPEED KILLS!" And I encourage all to not find out the hard way. All in all, none the less I can charge cases in the same amount of time that it takes for one of the digital auto trickler scales.

Great video. I am new to reloading and I didn’t know you could bullet seat and crimp at the same time. Thanks

Need more factory monolithoc options in .204

Sav. 25 in .204 loves the 40VMax.

I forget...who makes a carbide die a 204?

I am looking into reloading now and this was perfect. I am gonna look at the supplies now

You totally rock 👊 thank you

Hey just found this video although you posted it years ago. When both seating and crimping in one stroke, my 9mm has a large and visible indentation in the brass. It’s a visible cut into the brass. I set it up with only a very slight taper crimp which is only a 1/8th turn when setting up the crimp. Is this normal? When I use my lee factory crimp and resize die, which only does the crimp, I do not see such large of an indentation cut into the brass, it only leaves an impression. Am I doing something wrong or is this expected when using dies that both seat and crimp in one stroke

Thank you man. As a new reloaded this was invaluable to me. I was so unbelievably lost on getting the depth right on seating the round.

Nice!

Quick tip. Take the thread pitch and divide 1 by the number of threads per inch. For example, 3/8-16... 1/16=.0625. So you know one full rotation will give you .0625 adjustment.

I started on a Lyman single stage and went to a Lyman turret press. Recommend turret because you can turn back and fix mistakes easily.

Great video! I can't believe people use the Lee FCD for 45, 9mm or any othet pistol round. TC seating die is the best!

Great vidio thank you sir

What distance did you set your sights for? Was it difficult to adjust?

Dirty cartridge cases damage your resizing, die carbide or not you will ruin your die. It is best to clean them in your Tumblr before you resize and knock out the primer.

Goo Gone or WD40 would have saved from a sander and endless abrasive damage. Sray with Goo Gone with dish soap/water with a very soft cloth like microfiber When done spray wax and done. Very foolish to use an abrasive scrubber and insult to injury, using a sander.

Thanks for the video. I recently (last Sunday) purchased a TD29 for my Thunder 380 plus. Like yours it was really snug when I put the left side on. The right side was no problem but it has a space of a couple of thousands gap inside the trigger guide. I'm tightening the screw a little every couple of days and it should come together. The instructions say not to turn the adjustment screws more than one turn. I did a little adjustment using my laser bore sight and found it to be very sensitive. I would recommend only turn the allen wrench between 5 and 10 degrees at a time. In closing the ultimate best thing about the laser is it's made in America.

I have a bunch of flat top 125 gr Berry’s Bullets with no cannelure ; what to do about crimping? doi do it anyway; or will it damage the die or bullet

The current price for Unique powder from Midway is $51.99 per lb. I have an old pound of Unique ( it's a goldish and red cardboard container with a metal top) that I got in the late 1970's ( and still good!) and the price tag says $5.69! I think my Dad and I got it at a hardware store. This is not the same country.

That helps immensely, subscribed. I bought an old rig a few years ago used some Meguires oxidizer to remove that powdery white dullness. Worked ok. Takes a while to dial in new skills, but that my friend is very helpful. How did you get the decals off. Mine are not horrible but I may change them some day. Thanks again man, appreciate it and love the straightforward format, just you and a camera showing people how to get it done. What a cool time live in, blessings

Wow! That is impressive. Thanks for the pointer. The old rig will look amazing when your done.

Bravo! Perfect instructional for us ol boys with single stage presses. God bless. Good on ya!

Excellent video! Thank you. I reload .410 and 28 ga. But have never reloaded pistol ammo. I shoot a couple different 45’s and want to start reloading for them. I want to get a setup like you have and start gathering everything I need now in preparation for our long winters. I have about 6 or 7 hundred empty cases so it will give me something to do when the snow flies.

Thank you! Everything you need, and nothing you don't.

Thanks for the tip. I just got one used. Send to me package, which obviously was the problem. Adjuster leveler was Ken and I just replaced it. The beam would Not return to zero. I finally fingered out the inspection window were. The leveling mark is on was bent in rubbing on the beam. Once I bent it out I was good to go.

The one I got several years ago worked fine until I fired the first shot. It totally shut down and nothing I tried could get it to come back on. I sent for a replacement and it shut down when I racked the slide. I was sent another replacement and once again it shut down when I racked the slide. Finally I just gave up and sent #3 back for a refund. Nice design if they ever get the bugs worked out.

I broke the foot on my RCBS 505. . Anyone know where I can get my hands on an RCBS foot? I couldn't purchase one from the company. Strange, they didn't have any.

This very good explanation i will be loading 38 spl i have learned well from this thanks

They are expensive but they work !

Very informative. Appreciated. I subbed

Great video !

How is the recoil with the specific hand load?

I just got a midway and Natchez catalog. The smokeless powder went from $200 for 8 lbs to close to $500!!

Excellent. Just bought supplies and will start soon on my 2003 Tiffin Phaeton that I applied zep wax to 4 years ago. I will report back with time and results.

not belled enough, it will be very fiddly to get cast bullets started with this amount of bell. Good vid otherwise.

I've been a reloaded for about a decade so I understand the process. My question is are their any depriming dies that size the brass in one step like my rcbs 308 small base die shapes the brass and decaps it. Does that exist for 45acp or is it always 2 steps.

If you're using magnum pistol primers, a good way to keep them from accidentally being mixed with standard ones is to use a magic marker to color the faces of the primers before you dump them from the shipping trays. Then you have a 'heads up' before they get installed.

Thanks for the demonstration. I have done rifle loads, in around 50.2 or 50.5, but I am not entering 9mm pistols loading and I have the rcbs 502 scale, except, I don't know if the left side ruler is used with the right side. I am trying to obtain loads around 4.7 and 5.1.. How would I set that up?

Thank you for detailed video❤❤❤

Phenomenal vid! Was looking for one that showed RCBS equipment and in which the camera is aimed at the work (rather than being a 20 minute selfie at arm's length.) Well done. I'm subscribed now. I wish more video creators across KZbin would see how you arranged the camera and then taught the subject with your hands and voice.

Please bolt your press down, it bothers me, Hahaha 👍, great upload, thanks

Nicely done thank you

Noticed they give 2 hex keys. That's nice i thought, but unneeded. I then immediately lost one key. Thanks armalaser for the second one!

Great job, thanks!

Take a look at the Giraud Power Trimmer. Trims to the exact length, chamfer and deburrs in one fast operation, based off the case shoulder and only full length sized brass. You can buy and have set up for multiple calibers, and when set up with lock rings, you can switch back and forth and come right back to your exact settings for that caliber. You'll never want to look back after you have one of these! Next topic...Bence-Source Annealer:)