COMPLETELY FALSE TEST. I re did the whole test myself and got opposite results just by using the proper hard wood threaded insert. This KZbin used MDF inserts for hardwood which of course wasn’t gonna work well. I have a project with 1/2" Baltic birch plywood (considered a hardwood) and needed as much strength as possible. I bought the hardwood inserts that have much more threads. I bought the tap from his Amazon link and used the same 13/64 bit to drill. The torque test shows similar failure point for the tap (61 inch pounds in my case), but the inserts took over 120 inch pounds of torque before failing. I repeated the test 3 times. You read that correctly, this KZbinr concludes the tap is twice as strong, the truth is exactly the opposite. Threaded inserts are twice as strong. I also did a pull test and while I don’t have a way to measure precisely, I did hang tons of gym weight to an anchor and the tap failed, but it didn’t have enough weight to make the insert fail. I am not happy with my results because I wish I could go with tap as it’s faster, but what a joke of a video to use completely wrong inserts for the wood used and make that false of a conclusion.
@WoodcraftBySuman2 күн бұрын
Type of inserts will have varying results. There are some brass inserts by ezlock and rampa inserts that that probably hold much better than wood tapped threads because they have better outer thread engagement with the wood. But I was up front with the inserts I was using for this video and I stand by those results.
@censotheone3 күн бұрын
Dull knives are slippery too.
@blayne20293 күн бұрын
really helpful video! Thanks so much.
@tonymartin7906 күн бұрын
How do you not have 1million subs? This combines two of my all time favorite things, science and woodworking.
@ianellis96987 күн бұрын
To me the most interesting element of these tests is the no clamp test. I've seen some great videos discussing clamp pressure. Over time I've reduced my clamp pressure. I now clamp to achieve squeeze out and typically unclamp after 20 to 25 minutes and put the piece aside over night.
@pctatc667 күн бұрын
What is the clean up/reducing agent for Heidelberg Prolignum? btw, LED Coating solutions is now out of all forms of Heidelburg LED oil. Hopefully they restock soon! I emailed them about restocking. Ill let you know what they say
@maddogtungate67407 күн бұрын
These test are so dumb. And actually the glue is not stronger than the would.
@pctatc668 күн бұрын
Who is the manufacturer of your big gun "hockey Stick" light? Is it UV TAo Yuan light your smaller 50w light? Also what are the light intensities (watts per cm²) of both these lights. Im trying to talk myself into an investment here :)
@WoodcraftBySuman8 күн бұрын
Yup- the small 50w is UVTaoYuan brand. Spits out (guesstimating a little as I’m not in the shop) abojt 150-200mJ/cm2 at a spread of about 6x6”. The bigger gun is closer to 300mJ/cm2 but has a spread of 26”x6” ish area. If you want one gun to rule them all, it’s definitely the hockey stick. Much better cooling and serious output that will let you cure a 4x8’ surface in about a minute. The smaller light is excellent if you do medium/small projects.
@pctatc668 күн бұрын
@@WoodcraftBySuman Thanks! The I went on UVTaYuan's website and i found the smaller light but couldnt find the Hockey stick. I found one that was similar to it but only had 3 or 4 modular lights on the underside and one at the tip unlike yours which has 7 lights on the underside and one at the tip.
@WoodcraftBySuman8 күн бұрын
@@pctatc66 yea the hockey stick is made by some other company. I got mine from LEDcoatingsolutions. The smaller one with less led module is really good as well. Can get into tighter spaces for internal parts of a furniture. But I def love my hockey stick the most.
@pctatc667 күн бұрын
@@WoodcraftBySuman any markings on that hockey stick that point to a manufacturer?
@kurtharlem10 күн бұрын
What about hot glue? Does it emit bad stuff?
@ocotillodavid229610 күн бұрын
Works well on small flat surfaces. What about ornately carves antique pieces such as an eastlake dresser?
@WoodcraftBySuman10 күн бұрын
As long as the light can touch it, it should work the same. The finish lays similar to traditional hardwax oil. Though, disclaimer is: I have not extensively used it on ornate surfaces. The finish is a lot more durable than most options out there. I have been using it on furnitures around the house and it’s holding up better than lacquer so far. Which is wild to me.
@5naxalotl10 күн бұрын
enlightening
@angeloperezceo810112 күн бұрын
wood glue in impressively strong. never expected a product to be this good.
@angeloperezceo810112 күн бұрын
all the measurements were in pounds? .... you kept saying different things which confused me.
@WoodcraftBySuman12 күн бұрын
Yea if I speak the numbers, it’s in pounds. But the actual graphs and charts will show both pounds and kilos.
@angeloperezceo810112 күн бұрын
i love you man. keep up the amazing work.
@angeloperezceo810112 күн бұрын
I did get better
@rmk646712 күн бұрын
Yep have been using direct sunlight all summer for my tabletops, works great.
@brandonrichardson512312 күн бұрын
Nicely done man! I stumbled on your video after looking into UV finishes and learned a ton. Thank you!
@Aethalops14 күн бұрын
People need to be more thoughtful about the sheer amount pf plastic waste generated by the glue-and-tape method. Its a fine trick if used *after* exhausting other possibilities like jigs and better use of traditional clamping apparatus, including many which can be made from scrap and then used for years.
@TheFeist7714 күн бұрын
the amount of commercials on everything (youtube, amazon video, etc...) have gotten out of control
@WoodcraftBySuman14 күн бұрын
Because I did one spot on a woodworking relevant product I love? My guy, do you know how much it costs to produce videos like this to make it available for free to viewers?
@TheFeist7714 күн бұрын
@@WoodcraftBySuman sorry, this was not directed at you, but youtube. Videos creators do to support themselves is not what I was complaining about, but all the ones that youtube and the like add in.
@WoodcraftBySuman14 күн бұрын
@@TheFeist77 yea it’s all a bit much. I honestly switched to KZbin premium for that reason. Just to avoid all the midroll ads. YT puts ads on all videos even if the creator is not monetized, unfortunately.
@lafamillecarrington15 күн бұрын
No Japanese wood nails?
@pctatc6615 күн бұрын
Reference the apple wood table you refinished.. Did you use gloss or semi gloss?
@WoodcraftBySuman15 күн бұрын
I used gloss for the apple wood table on Instagram. It lays down more like semi gloss.
@pctatc6615 күн бұрын
I see the smaller gun is down to the $650 range. How fast is that gun or would you wait and step up to the extra large cure light like you now have? I may have to sell my Vac Sys System that has been sitting around not being used. or maybe my Fancy 3d printer with AMS hub! you wouldnt care to sell your small hand held light would ya? lol
@WoodcraftBySuman15 күн бұрын
@@pctatc66 the extra large curing light is suitable if you do big projects often. A dining table top can be cured with it in a matter of 2 minutes. The small gun is very good for smaller projects and occasional larger project. I like it for the portability and want to keep it for that reason.
@pctatc6615 күн бұрын
btw, ordered a liter of the Heidelberg in Gloss and the cheapo Amazon light. Ty for your patience and helping me with all my questions! I know I helped your analytics just a little bit :) lol
@bryanswanson500715 күн бұрын
theres a product called clean armor as well, seems like the same type of uv cured finish
@pctatc6615 күн бұрын
Wow Some of these are similarly priced like Clean Armor which I have been researching. Would you know what the differences are between these products and Clean Armor as well as Solarez that someone mentioned below? side note.. been doing a little more research. Clean Armor is a polymer finish meaning thicker and tougher but also a more plastic type of finish. Its probably much harder and repels aviation grade paint strippers, acetone all the way down to water. Its your more durable finish however you are giving up that natural wood look. I think Clean Armor is perfect for Shop Furniture and that where I intend on using it. Im just about done building a 14' miter station and this is the perfect finish for the top and also the cabinets. From what I hear its more durable that polyurethane and provides the same or better slickness. When you are sliding rough cut lumber down a table top, durability wins out over the plastic look. I could be wrong, would be interested to hear your thoughts on clean armor and the best places for its use
@WoodcraftBySuman15 күн бұрын
I haven’t used clean armor but that’s my understanding: it lays a little thick. Any of the finishes I’ve shown here will resist acetone and paint strippers. I recommend going with hidelberg that I didn’t show here. It’s an even better product and much cheaper. That’s what I’ve been using since I found it. Check the video description for links. Keep in mind, it is a very hard finish. While great for furnitures, for shop use, it can show scratch marks because you’re often being a lot more rough on shop surfaces than a home furniture. It’s still def one of the most durable finish I’ve used to date.
@pctatc6615 күн бұрын
@@WoodcraftBySuman Ill check it out but with shop furniture wouldn't you want a thicker finish almost plastic like? Also what's the coverage per qt/lt of the Hidelberg? I know Clean Armor boasts a little over 400 sq feet of coverage at one mil per Qt. 400 sq feet is just over 6 4x8 sheets of plywood front and back. ouch just priced some Hidelburg and it ends up MORE expensive than Clean Armor. They company that sells this stuff is charging $105 for the product $7 bucks for shipping $5 for tax but adds on a whopping $35 "PACKAGING" fee so it ends up slightly more expensive than Clean Armor. So with price being equivalent which is best for my needs. I know Clean Armor wants you to use the CUVO lights which are designed to have a uv rating of 1-3 mili watts per sq centimeter. Though I have seen the inventor use lights in the range of 7-10 milli watts (at range of 4 feet or so) Ive heard bad things about using too strong a UV light in that it can BOIL the finish and cause wrinkling,. Have you seen any of this with Hidelburg and your uv light? or how bout with some of the cheaper UV lights you have recommended on AMAZON? I know I have a million questions but his stuff is too expensive between the material and the lighting to get wrong!
@WoodcraftBySuman15 күн бұрын
@@pctatc66 I suppose. But it really depends on what you’re looking for and your use case for the shop project. If it helps- I use Heidelberg on my traditional woodworking workbench. It’s durable but still gets scratched up from day to day use. I re apply the coat every once in a long while and have had no complaints. I’d be curious to know what the coverage is like for the clean armor product. The vesting and Heidelberg is similar to hardwax oils.
@WoodcraftBySuman15 күн бұрын
@@pctatc66 Looks like i missed some questions there. Coverage is very similar to hardwax oils like rubio monocoat. So think of this as 1L of rubio monocoat. I didn't realize the vendor adds a packaging cost. That's unfortunate. As far as light goes: you CAN use cheap LED lights from amazon but it takes a long exposure time. Cuvo lights are probably fine but they seem underpowered based on the specs I can see online. But I have heard many people using it successfully. I personally really like the black portable handheld light gun the most. Best balance of power and cost. Keep in mind - LED power draw ratings are not necessarily indicative of UV output ratings. Many of the instruments produce a lot of heat. So wattage draw is not a 1:1 relationship with UV output. As for too much light and wrinkling - i have not seen that issue with any of the LED finishes I have used. In fact, I haven't seen it on the resin stuff either.
@pctatc6615 күн бұрын
@@WoodcraftBySuman Apparently KZbin censors didn't like what I just posted and never published it. Sometimes I think this would be better to take offline and have a direct email exchange but then I remember that others will be reading this and gaining useful knowledge because Im sure Im not the only one with the same questions! So here we go, hopefully the YT censors approve! Im sold on the Heidelberg finish as I just checked out your recent IG series on using their product! The finish looks amazing. My question now comes down to lighting. I really don't want to spend upwards of $650 for a handheld light. The Cuvo light that I was going to buy for use on the Clean Armor was $300. From what I understand Clean armor was specifically designed to require a 2 minute cure so the Cuvo lights were made to accommodate that 2 minute cure time. My hunch and its only a hunch is that since Clean Armor is a thicker product it requires a more even and longer curing time. So back on topic. Im very interested in the $33 amazon lights you posted above. Have you used this light with the Heidelberg product? If so, what kind of dry times did you see and how large is the cure pattern? Do you have any other recommendations for lights in the sub $300 range? Maybe one day I'll be doing enough UV Cure finishing that I can justify the $2500 light but until then, Id like to not break the bank! Thanks again for your time as always.
@garnerboyd420615 күн бұрын
Did you test them being pulled from the backside??
@marcmckenzie511016 күн бұрын
Use a drilling guide to have close to 90˚ bit to surface angles. Running a test beyond real use case shows a lack of understanding of engineering. Even at 30 assembly/disassembly is very unlikely for most people with their furniture. It amazes me how people can make videos with kind of junk science. Your video in reality is misleading.
@WoodcraftBySuman15 күн бұрын
Junk science and YT are best friends. For actual science, I choose to publish in scientific literatures. Not that it matters, but I do mention how many times an average person moves in their lifetime and then proceed to do 30 iterations to demonstrate how it fails and their respective strengths.
@marcmckenzie511015 күн бұрын
@@WoodcraftBySuman I should not have been so rude, so I apologize. Perhaps you know this, but I think in general science and engineering get muddled together. Science is the best set of methods we have available to answer the questions of how the universe works. Engineering applies specific areas of scientific findings as part of making design trade-offs optimized for specific priorities such as cost, schedule, quality, performance, applicability and so on. This is true whether chemical engineering, mechanical, electrical, digital, space, Twinkie’s - whatever. That’s why I quibble over this particular project, but we engineers quibble a lot - especially each other! Best wishes.
@WoodcraftBySuman15 күн бұрын
@@marcmckenzie5110 no worries. Engineered within parameters are how things generally go. As such, if I made a fully proper scientific video on KZbin, I’d have a lot of sleeping viewers. Which is why it’s condensed and isolated into small parts that are somewhat informative but lacks comprehensive substance.
@marcmckenzie511015 күн бұрын
@@WoodcraftBySuman Fair enough.
@ImurTuta16 күн бұрын
Are the results similar with plywood?
@WoodcraftBySuman15 күн бұрын
I doubt it. Plywood fibers are laid in opposing grain orientation one after the other. This would likely make a weaker thread than hardwood.
@weldabar16 күн бұрын
I'm not sure what this test shows other than: using simple wood threads in hardwood works pretty well. That's useful info. Trying to read more into it you'd have to start considering ... [go read the other comments].
@adonaysuria25116 күн бұрын
Hey, Suman. Everyone. Just something to share Vesting does have a line of color oil. 24 as a basic set plus custom.
You are right! I did not know this at the time of making this video. Thank you for sharing
@anthonyalbanese199316 күн бұрын
FIRST: Another thing to test, though, is how these inserts fair after a finish is applied. Or if it's better to do them before or after a finish. How does the potential swelling / closing up of the wood fibers effect the strength? Would a tried oil finish that is then drilled and insert made work better? What about in non-hard/softwoods, but instead composite woods? Otherwise... I'm with others, I think this is largely a flaw in the design of the metal threaded inserts (or the particular style chosen for the tests) - I think a higher TPI on the exterior of the insert plus CA / epoxy would result in a very, very strong high surface area connection. For use without epoxy/ CA glue, I think a larger thread size, but moderate TPI (less than what I'm suggesting above, but more than what is seen in the video) would result in also a stronger less prone to strip connection. I'm envisioning a almost "custom" insert for this - with a very large major diameter to minor diameter ratio, and a moderate pitch. Potentially, also, these would instead of being pre-drilled, would be pre-drilled and partially tapped - as I wonder if part of the problem with the inserts is the destruction of the fibers as it's being driven in.
@warrenbaker412416 күн бұрын
Thanks for going to all this work to find this out!! I was quite surprised and quite happy not to have to use the metal inserts in all future projects - there are viable choices!! Also I subscribed. I think your title was spot on.
@adorp17 күн бұрын
The threaded inserts didn't fail because they are weaker by design. They failed because they were far shorter compared to the wood tap. The wood tap went all the way in. The threaded inserts were only half the length, hence had half the performance.
@WoodcraftBySuman17 күн бұрын
Same length of thread engagement were used in the tests.
@eatdrinkwineguy18 күн бұрын
Great idea.
@jimiarisandi19 күн бұрын
Maybe nail is the best wood glue forever
@ThomB103121 күн бұрын
I have a curved furniture leg that sheared when moving it around. I'm going to leave the T III clamped for 24 hours, just because there is some tensile loading by the weight of the leg itself... so I want to play it safe. I assume at 24 hours it will be fully cured. That said, this is an interesting and educational video. Thank you for taking the time to perform these tests. 4 hours looks like a good rule of thumb for square joints.
@LeeIsaacson22 күн бұрын
This is clean. Was watching some of your tests yesterday and was thinking I’d watch lots of small project videos too if you made them
@WoodcraftBySuman20 күн бұрын
Thanks so much! YT algorithm is a funny thing. I can’t realistically post build videos here but have been kicking around the idea of a separate channel for a hodge page of builds and tool talk.
@faridmotreb23 күн бұрын
You are doing great. I am a big fan already watching your second video. The only missing thing for me (as a former researcher) is a factor of repetition on your experiments. I know it adds to the work but I think it would just make it much more strong of an argument if you can do few more samples. But even without that I respect your work a lot. Thank you.
@cyberfemme31924 күн бұрын
What about using fine sand instead of salt to eliminate the chemical interaction?
@Zzrdemon663324 күн бұрын
You might need to google what run out is, I will give you the fact you speak and don't use an ai voice but dude your tests and experiments are frigging pointless. And stainless bolts are unrated because they are soft as dog shit, you don't know shit about what you are preaching!
@rfehr61324 күн бұрын
Great video! And as a structural engineer who also has a physics degree and has developed lab testing procedures for materials testing, I think you did a very good job with your tests. It sounds like you have a science or engineering background, since you clearly identified the primary stresses for testing as well as some of the key variables impacting strength. There definitely are more variables to isolate in order to give more meaningful results, but overall I think you did better than anyone else outside academia lol. I was actually surprised to see the straight dowel wasn't top of all dowels. I always use them, because fluted can sometimes be machined wrong in my experience... just put a bad taste in my mouth. I also hadn't thought of cutting the dowel for air to escape. I always just force it in lol. Good tip. Thanks.
@hanglooserecluse26 күн бұрын
I just found out PVA has a use by date, I just used some glue I purchased in 2016 to fix a broken camp chair (ZEMPIRE ROCO LOWRIDER V2” made of “GERMAN BEECHWOOD”. 24 hrs later the glue is still soft and gooey. I wish I knew and I wish you could test old glue vs new. My glue was 8 years old. If I’d known, I would have bought new glue damn it.
@WoodcraftBySuman26 күн бұрын
Old glue vs new glue vs frozen/defrosted goue is a future video for sure :)
@rfehr61328 күн бұрын
Very excited to try this stuff. Been concerned about the staining though. I wonder if more coats will help. Also, did you do a baseline voc test with unfinished wood?
@WoodcraftBySuman28 күн бұрын
Hi Ryan - did you place the order already? If not, I recommend switching to Hidelberg Finish from ledcoatingsolutions . com. I became aware of them after posting this video and it is an even better product imo (much better clarity and depth to the finish). And its $105 per liter as opposed to nearly $200 per liter. Not sure what you mean by staining? As in, does the finish work on top of a stain? I haven't done that but my buddy Keith Johnson has and he did not have any issues with it. I haven't noticed a big jump in quality/look beyond 2 coats, though, sometimes I apply 3 coats just because its fast haha. Yes, VOC measurements are usually baseline calibrated.
@rfehr61328 күн бұрын
@WoodcraftBySuman I have only ordered a couple small bottles of jewelry grade stuff to get a feel for the finish without having to spend a lot of money ($20 for 400g). Good to know about the other brand. I was concerned about the wood appearance vs oils. Have you also looked into Clean Armor? It's getting a lot of attention right now as well, and I wonder how it compares to the others. By staining, I meant the surface getting stained by food or drink, like the coffee in your test. That's obviously a big concern with a finish that will have food on it like what I'm building now. I want to do a thick gloss coating on a serving tray / Charcuterie board, and it seems like my only good options for that are epoxy or this UV stuff. I'm currently testing out other finishes like tung, polymerized tung, watco butcher block oil & finish, oil poly, and many combinations of the above, with and without orange solvent. So far only the watco BB oil is giving me the finish I like, but it yellows quite a bit. I don't have enough coats down on the poly test pieces yet to make a call on that one. And the polymerized tung hasn't even arrived in the mail yet. I got Corey's pure polymerized tung, which I'll be diluting with orange solvent. If this stuff is actually a faster cure like is claimed, I'll definitely use it on cutting boards over non-polymerized tung. The polymerized version can supposedly be buffed to a high gloss too, so I'll be investigating that.
@WoodcraftBySuman28 күн бұрын
@@rfehr613 I definitely need to play with the buffing ability of these finishes. I think if you are chasing a more gloss finish, clean armor looks like its the ticket. I haven't played with the finish just yet but it looks to lay a bit thick imo. True gloss is much harder to achieve with UV curing products unless you really lay them thick but its hard to get consistency at thick coats. Honestly for serving trays and such, with a glossy look preference, epoxy might be your best friend. As for staining - the UV cure finishes seem to tolerate very well. I have seen water rings from a shotty single coat on my workbench and a chilled beverage. But never from 2+ coats.
@rfehr61328 күн бұрын
@WoodcraftBySuman was the test you conducted in this video only 1 coat? Because the coffee stained it. Yeah I wish these coatings were cheaper so I could test more. I probably should try epoxy as well. Speaking of which, Total Boat also makes a UV curing resin.
@WoodcraftBySuman28 күн бұрын
@@rfehr613 two coats shown here on the video. to be fair, it wasn't coffee stain - it was espresso stain. Much more concentrated and left over 24hrs. Even then, the staining was only barely visible on maple. I wouldn't worry too much about waterspots/staining with uv curing finishes unless its a light wood that will be easily neglected for long periods of time.
@nate-408Ай бұрын
Yes you did have that plate made at a machine shop and yes it did probably did break the bank. As a journeyman toolmaker i can say that plate takes a while to make and our shop rate is $120 an hour. It's quite a bit of work and keeping it flat is another challenge. Buying a similar one off the shelf for fixturing parts in our laser engraver or CMM would cost us about $1500 last time we checked. Thanks for the great info your time and effort on these videos is greatly appreciated.
@Lolatyou332Ай бұрын
Or you could try a different wood tap thread? I feel like that's something missing here. What about different options of metal threads that don't have the issue? Is it possible the threading being used were too small or there were better options instead? Metal threads are going to be superior if designed properly. I also think different adhesives would be better, such as using construction adhesive / construction grade wood glue instead of just throwing in some super glue.
@markmawson7865Ай бұрын
What about biscuits
@markmawson7865Ай бұрын
Imagine a fluted domino?
@markmawson7865Ай бұрын
The surface area of a two inch dowel is more than twice the surface area of a one inch dowel.
@samadrid6321Ай бұрын
This stuff is basically a type of polyurathane. It's $600 per gallon. I'll stick with my tung oil and beeswax at $90 a gallon. I don't use poly anymore.
@pbhoganАй бұрын
You need to look at CleanArmor. It seems like a better option to these UV-cure finishes and the lights are (somewhat) cheaper too. I'd be interested see how it compares in your experience.