Type of inserts will have varying results. There are some brass inserts by ezlock and rampa inserts that that probably hold much better than wood tapped threads because they have better outer thread engagement with the wood. But I was up front with the inserts I was using for this video and I stand by those results.

Yup- the small 50w is UVTaoYuan brand. Spits out (guesstimating a little as I’m not in the shop) abojt 150-200mJ/cm2 at a spread of about 6x6”. The bigger gun is closer to 300mJ/cm2 but has a spread of 26”x6” ish area. If you want one gun to rule them all, it’s definitely the hockey stick. Much better cooling and serious output that will let you cure a 4x8’ surface in about a minute. The smaller light is excellent if you do medium/small projects.

@@WoodcraftBySuman Thanks! The I went on UVTaYuan's website and i found the smaller light but couldnt find the Hockey stick. I found one that was similar to it but only had 3 or 4 modular lights on the underside and one at the tip unlike yours which has 7 lights on the underside and one at the tip.

@@pctatc66 yea the hockey stick is made by some other company. I got mine from LEDcoatingsolutions. The smaller one with less led module is really good as well. Can get into tighter spaces for internal parts of a furniture. But I def love my hockey stick the most.

@@WoodcraftBySuman any markings on that hockey stick that point to a manufacturer?

As long as the light can touch it, it should work the same. The finish lays similar to traditional hardwax oil. Though, disclaimer is: I have not extensively used it on ornate surfaces. The finish is a lot more durable than most options out there. I have been using it on furnitures around the house and it’s holding up better than lacquer so far. Which is wild to me.

Yea if I speak the numbers, it’s in pounds. But the actual graphs and charts will show both pounds and kilos.

Because I did one spot on a woodworking relevant product I love? My guy, do you know how much it costs to produce videos like this to make it available for free to viewers?

@@WoodcraftBySuman sorry, this was not directed at you, but youtube. Videos creators do to support themselves is not what I was complaining about, but all the ones that youtube and the like add in.

@@TheFeist77 yea it’s all a bit much. I honestly switched to KZbin premium for that reason. Just to avoid all the midroll ads. YT puts ads on all videos even if the creator is not monetized, unfortunately.

I used gloss for the apple wood table on Instagram. It lays down more like semi gloss.

I see the smaller gun is down to the $650 range. How fast is that gun or would you wait and step up to the extra large cure light like you now have? I may have to sell my Vac Sys System that has been sitting around not being used. or maybe my Fancy 3d printer with AMS hub! you wouldnt care to sell your small hand held light would ya? lol

@@pctatc66 the extra large curing light is suitable if you do big projects often. A dining table top can be cured with it in a matter of 2 minutes. The small gun is very good for smaller projects and occasional larger project. I like it for the portability and want to keep it for that reason.

btw, ordered a liter of the Heidelberg in Gloss and the cheapo Amazon light. Ty for your patience and helping me with all my questions! I know I helped your analytics just a little bit :) lol

I haven’t used clean armor but that’s my understanding: it lays a little thick. Any of the finishes I’ve shown here will resist acetone and paint strippers. I recommend going with hidelberg that I didn’t show here. It’s an even better product and much cheaper. That’s what I’ve been using since I found it. Check the video description for links. Keep in mind, it is a very hard finish. While great for furnitures, for shop use, it can show scratch marks because you’re often being a lot more rough on shop surfaces than a home furniture. It’s still def one of the most durable finish I’ve used to date.

@@WoodcraftBySuman Ill check it out but with shop furniture wouldn't you want a thicker finish almost plastic like? Also what's the coverage per qt/lt of the Hidelberg? I know Clean Armor boasts a little over 400 sq feet of coverage at one mil per Qt. 400 sq feet is just over 6 4x8 sheets of plywood front and back. ouch just priced some Hidelburg and it ends up MORE expensive than Clean Armor. They company that sells this stuff is charging $105 for the product $7 bucks for shipping $5 for tax but adds on a whopping $35 "PACKAGING" fee so it ends up slightly more expensive than Clean Armor. So with price being equivalent which is best for my needs. I know Clean Armor wants you to use the CUVO lights which are designed to have a uv rating of 1-3 mili watts per sq centimeter. Though I have seen the inventor use lights in the range of 7-10 milli watts (at range of 4 feet or so) Ive heard bad things about using too strong a UV light in that it can BOIL the finish and cause wrinkling,. Have you seen any of this with Hidelburg and your uv light? or how bout with some of the cheaper UV lights you have recommended on AMAZON? I know I have a million questions but his stuff is too expensive between the material and the lighting to get wrong!

@@pctatc66 I suppose. But it really depends on what you’re looking for and your use case for the shop project. If it helps- I use Heidelberg on my traditional woodworking workbench. It’s durable but still gets scratched up from day to day use. I re apply the coat every once in a long while and have had no complaints. I’d be curious to know what the coverage is like for the clean armor product. The vesting and Heidelberg is similar to hardwax oils.

@@pctatc66 Looks like i missed some questions there. Coverage is very similar to hardwax oils like rubio monocoat. So think of this as 1L of rubio monocoat. I didn't realize the vendor adds a packaging cost. That's unfortunate. As far as light goes: you CAN use cheap LED lights from amazon but it takes a long exposure time. Cuvo lights are probably fine but they seem underpowered based on the specs I can see online. But I have heard many people using it successfully. I personally really like the black portable handheld light gun the most. Best balance of power and cost. Keep in mind - LED power draw ratings are not necessarily indicative of UV output ratings. Many of the instruments produce a lot of heat. So wattage draw is not a 1:1 relationship with UV output. As for too much light and wrinkling - i have not seen that issue with any of the LED finishes I have used. In fact, I haven't seen it on the resin stuff either.

​@@WoodcraftBySuman Apparently KZbin censors didn't like what I just posted and never published it. Sometimes I think this would be better to take offline and have a direct email exchange but then I remember that others will be reading this and gaining useful knowledge because Im sure Im not the only one with the same questions! So here we go, hopefully the YT censors approve! Im sold on the Heidelberg finish as I just checked out your recent IG series on using their product! The finish looks amazing. My question now comes down to lighting. I really don't want to spend upwards of $650 for a handheld light. The Cuvo light that I was going to buy for use on the Clean Armor was $300. From what I understand Clean armor was specifically designed to require a 2 minute cure so the Cuvo lights were made to accommodate that 2 minute cure time. My hunch and its only a hunch is that since Clean Armor is a thicker product it requires a more even and longer curing time. So back on topic. Im very interested in the $33 amazon lights you posted above. Have you used this light with the Heidelberg product? If so, what kind of dry times did you see and how large is the cure pattern? Do you have any other recommendations for lights in the sub $300 range? Maybe one day I'll be doing enough UV Cure finishing that I can justify the $2500 light but until then, Id like to not break the bank! Thanks again for your time as always.

Junk science and YT are best friends. For actual science, I choose to publish in scientific literatures. Not that it matters, but I do mention how many times an average person moves in their lifetime and then proceed to do 30 iterations to demonstrate how it fails and their respective strengths.

@@WoodcraftBySuman I should not have been so rude, so I apologize. Perhaps you know this, but I think in general science and engineering get muddled together. Science is the best set of methods we have available to answer the questions of how the universe works. Engineering applies specific areas of scientific findings as part of making design trade-offs optimized for specific priorities such as cost, schedule, quality, performance, applicability and so on. This is true whether chemical engineering, mechanical, electrical, digital, space, Twinkie’s - whatever. That’s why I quibble over this particular project, but we engineers quibble a lot - especially each other! Best wishes.

@@marcmckenzie5110 no worries. Engineered within parameters are how things generally go. As such, if I made a fully proper scientific video on KZbin, I’d have a lot of sleeping viewers. Which is why it’s condensed and isolated into small parts that are somewhat informative but lacks comprehensive substance.

@@WoodcraftBySuman Fair enough.

I doubt it. Plywood fibers are laid in opposing grain orientation one after the other. This would likely make a weaker thread than hardwood.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5-QdWCJi89qaqcsi=rEKNpYwjjr66RRCU

You are right! I did not know this at the time of making this video. Thank you for sharing

Same length of thread engagement were used in the tests.

Thanks so much! YT algorithm is a funny thing. I can’t realistically post build videos here but have been kicking around the idea of a separate channel for a hodge page of builds and tool talk.

Old glue vs new glue vs frozen/defrosted goue is a future video for sure :)

Hi Ryan - did you place the order already? If not, I recommend switching to Hidelberg Finish from ledcoatingsolutions . com. I became aware of them after posting this video and it is an even better product imo (much better clarity and depth to the finish). And its $105 per liter as opposed to nearly $200 per liter. Not sure what you mean by staining? As in, does the finish work on top of a stain? I haven't done that but my buddy Keith Johnson has and he did not have any issues with it. I haven't noticed a big jump in quality/look beyond 2 coats, though, sometimes I apply 3 coats just because its fast haha. Yes, VOC measurements are usually baseline calibrated.

@WoodcraftBySuman I have only ordered a couple small bottles of jewelry grade stuff to get a feel for the finish without having to spend a lot of money ($20 for 400g). Good to know about the other brand. I was concerned about the wood appearance vs oils. Have you also looked into Clean Armor? It's getting a lot of attention right now as well, and I wonder how it compares to the others. By staining, I meant the surface getting stained by food or drink, like the coffee in your test. That's obviously a big concern with a finish that will have food on it like what I'm building now. I want to do a thick gloss coating on a serving tray / Charcuterie board, and it seems like my only good options for that are epoxy or this UV stuff. I'm currently testing out other finishes like tung, polymerized tung, watco butcher block oil & finish, oil poly, and many combinations of the above, with and without orange solvent. So far only the watco BB oil is giving me the finish I like, but it yellows quite a bit. I don't have enough coats down on the poly test pieces yet to make a call on that one. And the polymerized tung hasn't even arrived in the mail yet. I got Corey's pure polymerized tung, which I'll be diluting with orange solvent. If this stuff is actually a faster cure like is claimed, I'll definitely use it on cutting boards over non-polymerized tung. The polymerized version can supposedly be buffed to a high gloss too, so I'll be investigating that.

@@rfehr613 I definitely need to play with the buffing ability of these finishes. I think if you are chasing a more gloss finish, clean armor looks like its the ticket. I haven't played with the finish just yet but it looks to lay a bit thick imo. True gloss is much harder to achieve with UV curing products unless you really lay them thick but its hard to get consistency at thick coats. Honestly for serving trays and such, with a glossy look preference, epoxy might be your best friend. As for staining - the UV cure finishes seem to tolerate very well. I have seen water rings from a shotty single coat on my workbench and a chilled beverage. But never from 2+ coats.

@WoodcraftBySuman was the test you conducted in this video only 1 coat? Because the coffee stained it. Yeah I wish these coatings were cheaper so I could test more. I probably should try epoxy as well. Speaking of which, Total Boat also makes a UV curing resin.

@@rfehr613 two coats shown here on the video. to be fair, it wasn't coffee stain - it was espresso stain. Much more concentrated and left over 24hrs. Even then, the staining was only barely visible on maple. I wouldn't worry too much about waterspots/staining with uv curing finishes unless its a light wood that will be easily neglected for long periods of time.