10c 15c burst

makes all the sense. i was thinking, designed for those subs or not, 151 is really low

TDLR: more than 1 inch away. Actually you can slightly lower the tuning frequency of your port if you push the port a specific distance from the loading wall (you rear hatch, for example). It will cause the wall to act as an extension of your port. Your port area needs to be equal to the 2-dimensional (surface) area, of the space that wraps around the area between the end of the port and the rear hatch (its basically the same shape as your port, a "folded rectangle" similar in shape to a head-band). hang with me, I'm trying to explain this the best i can. I wish i could post a drawing lol. So your port has a diameter of 4", and you need to figure out the surface area of the rectangle that would wrap around that area. The longer side of that rectangle is equal to the circumference of your port... 4*pi = 12.57 and the other side of that rectangle is equal to the distance your port is from the rear hatch. Lets call that distance "x" ... so the equation is 4*pi*x = port area. Just change the "4" to whatever the diameter of your port is. So: 4*π*x = πr^2 4*π*x = π(2)^2 4*π*x = π*4 4*π*x = 12.57 divide both sides by 4 π*x = π divide both sides by pi x = 1 so the port should be 1 inch from the loading wall. but 1 inch is exactly 25% of your port diameter... and actually, this scales linearly no matter how big your aero-port is. An 8" port needs to be 2" from the wall. A 20" port needs to be 5" from the wall. etc... so actually the real answer is you just *divide the port diameter by 4* :)

​@bailey2517 cool I always like learning about car audio and how it's alot of math to find and determine what you need. So 1" from my door is how close my port should be firing off my door? I have it now about 4" away givevor take but seems my subs are suffering in the mid 30s up to 45hz. At 45hz sounds like it starts picking back up which I'm thinking I have something else going on. Been thinking it could be jus the way my box and subs are performing in my full size 4 door truck but around 35hz to 45hz I can put my hand on the subs and feel them barley moving but only certain frequencys it will get really loud. Gonna re set all my gain ls from my line out converter and make sure I'm getting the biggest signal going to my sub amp and make sure nothing canceling out frequencys that's almost what it sounds like it's doing. But when those certain frequencys play it slams and hits hard. My box is tuned to 33hz and I have myblpf around 80hz or so and my subsonic is about 28hz. Gonna try and play around with it see if it changes anything by moving my box around. But what's weird is if i play single test tones like 33hz 34hz 35hz all the way to 65hz it will play and hit them. But when I play a sweep from 30hz to 40hz to starts good then 35hz to 40hz its like the bass jus falls off then will start picking up in mid 40hz range. My box is only like 1.4cu net with 2 kicker q class 8s. But Gonna build another ported box as big as I can fit which will I believe be about 2.5cu maybe 2.7cu net and gonna run either 3 sundown x8s or 3 b2 audio rampage v2 8s on 3.5k amp. Should get little louder lol

@@johnnypiper1717 that might just be due to the acoustics of your vehicle cabin. I do t think any normal box would sound like that unless you REALLY messed uo the design.

Here is the video I did on it a while back. You would have to check the newest records to see how the subs did. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5TXm2xqlNZgeK8

I agree, some of the best subs out there but they are pricey. I have stopped buying them unless I get a good deal on them.

And people used to think DD and Mmats was over priced. But when I went out to them that sundown is just as expensive.

😂😅😂 what a child

LOL

Well please show us the correct way

Dickhead much?

Just be careful you give enough speaker loading. aka enough port area through your line of wave path way (portlength). A horn is basically just a port without additional mass loading. so in case u design your line all through until your opened window, u gotta simulate how much u will hit that tone. if its badly designed you bottom out, bcs there is not enough air reaching the speaker. regardless, space is the factor. just dont overpower the driver and u wont bottom out.... or maybe use less speakercones... I occasionally built a semi t-line for my car, by giving it a line of 1,80m. thou at halfway, the horn/port way gets halved in its area and you gain other of "reflective" line of 0,9m. calculating 0,9+1,80m u get 2,7meters. 344m/s air velocity divided by 2,7meters is about 120hz. which, its 1/4 wavelength is about 30 hz. Funny enough hornresp simulated that 4 me

Plus if u do ports that get too small vs the volume (aka wall to wall distances in all 3 dimensions) u end up getting many many reflections. you get low notes, but u end up gettin a lot of harmonic distortion, bcs of alllll those reflections. shit starts to sound less and less good, the smaller the port / the bigger the volume of your chamber. Just try to design your bandpass modells with the biggest ports possible. Those might sound better, and without a "hollow" sounding base.

I rarely use heavy subs anymore because they are a pain to load and unload. I hope you get better!