I really want a classic Honda I can do some serious miles on. Id absolutely love a CX500C but these have also caught my eye. Is there a massive power difference and riding experience? Especially as a high miler, would it be a better idea to go for greater engine capacity, or are these 400s solid?

I bet you refill your buckets a lot with all that voltage.

Thanks . Best info ! Good job

She’s a beauty, I love my 400n, but if I’m honest there’s s as more simple beauty to the Dream

Had a faired one, then a naked one then another faired one..often drove it from west londin to devon,used it all over town for work,loved this machine...looks to kill at 500 paces

I,m lightly restoring my 1975 GL,, and yes I,v just made a misstake with buying parts,,I needed right hand switch gear and saw one ,,so jumped and ordered,,when I recieved it ,,it did not have the light switch on as per English model,,it was a US part without the light switch... Regarding back chrome mudguard mine is quite deep ,,dropping down well below the reg plate and light ,,unfortually mine has a split .. Again another English model only is the handel bars ,,mine came with straight ish bars ..Which when I rode (10yrs ago) played hell with my back ,,so I,m going US style bars ,,but I,m expecting trouble with wire length to switch gear..nothing is simple !!!

Aaaagh, biggest regret ever....i should have rode it, bought for £300, sold for £2500...still crying....looks the bees knees....boo hoo...sob, sob..

Many thanks for the very informative videos. I am currently restoring a GL 1000/1977 and always look forward to a new episode.

the silencers are from a 250 t, not 400t

I love it I had grease nipples but on rear swing arm as got a little noise bike shop did that in 80s

I loved my cbx 400 f 1983 had it for years never see them

Iv a Honda TLR Hoping I can use this as when my ignition is on it drains the 6 v battery Tha stator and rectifier regulator are OK and sending 8 v to battery But the short that's somewhere is draining the battery till its flat

...did someone just spray paint this engine housing and all the bolts, and some of the cables, in silver?

I'm a professional guitar maker and was wondering, how is he going to make sure the spokes are equally tensioned?,...Is he going to count the threads or something? I felt pretty stup!d when you hit the spoke with the screw driver and it made a perfect pitch 😁 You could literally tighten up those spokes with a chap $10 guitar tuner and have perfect tension all the way around. One thing to consider though is, that you change the pitch of each spoke if you cross it with another spoke and those two spokes touch each other. It's hard to see on the video, but if they touch each other, you've basically divide the length of a spoke in two parts and depending on which side of the crossed section you hit them, they will make a different sound. That's why some of the spokes on the old wheel didn't sound all the same when you "aimlessly" hit them with the screw driver. That, or they just were way off tension. There is a bit more to it, but I don't think that it's relevant on the scale of a motorcycle wheel. Grate job with the wheel. It looks amazing.

Got a new neutral switch to fit to my GL1000 which I believe is a engine out job but had heard it was possible to screw the top out in situ and clean the carbon off the contacts which will fix the neutral light staying on all the time so it was good to see this 👍

Really glad that I discovered your channel. I really enjoy your "no bull" and down to earth approach to everything, while still achieving the best possible result within reason.

Disculpe tengo una honda gl 1100 de 1979 se calentaba por unas juntas de cabeza que estaban mal selas cambien y ya no prendio cree que pueda ser las valvulas ya que solo avienta explosiones por el carburador el tiempo esta bien

Add salt if the process stops. It helps to carry the zinc onto the parts.

Wow, unbelievable find….thanks for sharing.

Cheers,a useful video to have a look around the engine while its all out of the bike, im looking into getting a crash damaged 1500/1800 and quite like the idea of creating a lightweight trac/ day car like a small mid engine lotus europa convertable (if such a car exsisted),with Valkyrie carbs and exhaust sound it will sound like a little supercar, dont see many in cars yet but i think it could make a cool 70s inspired flyer go and sound well, with most of the brakes and lights switches and controllers being used from an original donor bike gives it interesting legislative standing as a bike/ car "kit". Like single front headlight no front numberplate mot emmisions held at the year of bike. Etc. Anyway thanks muchly😏

Be interested to know who you use for chroming?

Beautiful 👍🏻

Another great video! I have been binge watching the whole series before I start restoring a 79 model. Please keep the videos coming. Looking forward to seeing it all come together!

There should be a better seal made

On my Sherco trials bike I could change the fork seals without disassembling the forks. Take off the dust seal and the fork seal circlip and clean the recess as best you can with the seal still inside. Empty the fork oil as best you can through the drain, or top of the fork. Put the fork leg in a vice (use a rag or soft jaws to protect the chrome) and gently heat the area slightly around the seal, unscrew the cap and valve from the top of the forks and push a compressed air nozzle against a small oring to seal it and pump air into the fork. The seal should pop out. Make sure you have a rag wrapped tightly around end of the fork where the fork seal is, because it pops off with a bang and residue oil comes out behind it under pressure. You can then thoroughly drain the oil, refit the new seals, circlip, seal dust caps and add fresh oil, and the job is done. wear safety goggles because if the oil hits you in the face it is no joke. The first time I did this I didn't wrap a rag around it, and sprayed myself and the inside of the garage with dirty fork oil. 😂😂😂

first kick is wrong .. second kick is right because you found TDC and all the way up with the kickstarter and all the way down .. that's because there is a decompressor on,,

Can you use a spacer temporarily until you locate the proper springs?

Excellent video VJ. Hopefully this will help me sort things out on my 99 Triumph Thunderbird. Dead short I've been trying to run down for several days.

If ever the impact wrench/broom trick does not work on those bottom bolts, I've had success making up a fork tool - by tack welding a proper sized bolt (head down) on the end of suitably long and narrow diameter steel rod. Fits right in there. Cheers!

Bought mine brand new 14th April 1985, Red version, loved it!! Never a problem with chain tensioner...almost a year later near killed myself & totalled bike in collision with truck.. (my fault)... Bike was wrecked, front forks snapped clear in half...... how I survived is still a wonder.... Yup loved the bike... 39 years later my chariot is now a lovely SV1000S.... Great old girl....

You should use reinforced springs for the fork. Much longer and no spacers.

good video. towards the end when you were trying to free the engine would lifting the bike off the engine have made it easier? just wondering. good job and thanks for showing us how to do this.

Looks like a bunch of fun and reminiscing 👍🏻😁

Honda, Suzuki, Anfield,

You videoed me leaving the event, you salty dog! 😉 Nice one 👍

Some lovely looking bikes on display 👍

That's because it's not a GL1000!

Just spent 6 hours on pulling my 1979 GL1000 engine, and still haven't cleared it from the driveshaft and still have not been able to access the neutral switch! Frustrating ... but I appreciate the fact that you posted this. Good to know that others agree that "it's quite a job". Will try again tomorrow.

Nice work 👍🏻

That weep hole near the oil fill cap is simply brilliant. I bought one last summer 2023. Had to drive 2.5 hours and trailered it home. It only had 7,600 miles on the odometer. In the USA the, 'sport model' 1978 Honda CB 400T HaWk II, advertised as: "Fly the HaWk, motorcycling will never be the same". I prefer Dream, because it is a dream of a bike. It performs wonderfully. Very strong up to about 70mph . Excellent for back country two lane roads and around town.😊. Best seat ever, very comfortable. Electric and kick start. I had to rebuild the front forks, replace the outer oil seal behind the front sprocket as well as the shift shaft seal. It is absolutely perfect for a 46 year old bike. I ride a RE Hunter 350 too, so as not to put too many miles on the HaWk. They are similar in some ways. The HaWk's 360 degree crank with the over square engine design is simply marvelous. Always Dreaming of riding my HaWk.

Love the videos..I also have a complete 77 GW that has all good parts if you need anything

I had one brand new. The front brake is a pain and the tensioner gave me trouble. Still, I went everywhere on it and loved it. Watch out for the diaphragm in the petcock.

Great review, and the Dream was a lovely bike, but I disagree about the looks compared to the Superdream (which I had in the first year). The shape of the Superdream with the tank narrowing and flowing into the side panels, the seat, and the tail piece behind the seat flowed on into the 900 and even the CBX, and is super sexy in all subsequent guises. However, I have a 69 Sandcast, and a 69 Diecast, and so I also love the bulbous tank and panels, and for me, the 250T is a not backwards to be honest. Also, as the owner of a ‘75 (first year) 400 Four, I can’t think of any obvious reason why I would have (back then) swapped to a 400T to be honest. Great review mate, and subscribed on the back of it.

Still a beauty!

Brilliant stuff and very informative thank you. Hanging on every discovery!

This is my cbx550f when I go grocery shopping in November in Sweden. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iom2dY2Ho7N_eK8

yeah I must agree with the other two comments so informative,,, I am very wary about doing anything to mine,,as I have no clue of what I,m doing,,, you sir are my foute of all knowledge,,thanks