Thanks so much for documenting. I've got the confidence to do mine now !

Better do service lorries!

You need better tools!. I did this in half the time!

Real compression you will know when test it with hot engine....90psi is normal for cold engine....keep up a good work!

I managed to replace the neutral switch with engine in frame. Not fun but possible using a wedge between engine & frame. 😵‍💫

Very nice! I’m getting ready to paint the motor for my 79 basket case project. We don’t have that brand of paint over here in the US, but I am going to try a rust oleum engine paint from the local auto parts store. Besides a thorough cleaning, did you sand or apply primer before painting? Also, do you plan to apply a clearcoat?

Great to see another video from you on this bike! Do you find this silver paint a good match to the original Honda colour? My engine has far more 'patina' than yours but it's in the frame so painting the top is not so easy even though I've removed the rad and fan, carbs, and fuel tank.

Hello I am from France, Valence/Montélimar region and I watch all your videos because I am in the middle of restoring a Honda 1000 GL LTD from 1976. About the spokes, when I dismantled the spokes there was on each nipple a small curved washer of Honda origin, but when I see your video, you no longer put the small washer back! is this normal? I ordered the two spoke kits, and there are no washers. the original Honda spokes have a diameter of 3.50mm and in the adaptable spoke kits 3.16 mm so thinner, what do you think?? Do you have a video on the spring-loaded primary chain tensioner because on my engine n° 2035577 GL1E from 1976 there is a fixed primary chain tensioner, can I put a spring-loaded chain tensioner which were mounted from 1977 or 1978 I think? Have a nice day. jch Bonjour Je suis de France région Valence/ Montélimar et je regarde toutes vos vidéos car je suis en pleine restauration d’une Honda 1000 GL LTD de 1976. Au sujet des rayons, quand j’ai démonté les rayons il y avait sur chaque téton une petite rondelle incurvées d’origine Honda, mais quand je voie votre vidéo, vous ne remettez plus la petite rondelle ! est-ce normale ? j’ai commandé les deux kits de rayons, et il n’y a pas les rondelles. les rayons d’origine Honda ont un diamètre de 3,50mm et dans les kits de rayon adaptables 3.16 mm donc plus fin, quand pensez-vous ?? Auriez-vous une vidéo sur le tendeur de chaine primer a ressort car sur mon moteur n° 2035577 GL1E de 1976 il y a un tendeur de chaine primaire fix, puis-je mettre un tendeur de chaine a ressort qui ont été monter à partir de 1977 ou 1978 je crois ? Bonne journée. jch

Nice job

Also called a push broom in the United States.

I have a 75, 78, and 79. This is good information. Thanks.

Looking good ,i have a 75 GL1000 and i am just behind you in my re build what tyres have you gone for . looking forward to the next issue.

I’ve got a 77 I’m about to do the timing belts on, so this was very helpful. Thanks!

Shame you didn't remove the original screen printing on the original gauge face BEFORE applying the new decal. We do state this in the included instructions as now the gauge face won't allow any light to shine through. Kind regards, Classic Gauges.

hallo können sie mir sagen beim zeitstempel 5,37 haben sie instrumenten folien. wo kann ich solche bekommen? danke im vorraus holger janssen

Glad to see you posting new material. I have a 75 and find your videos a fantastic resource. Keep posting.

Excellent video and advice. I did a mechanical restoration on an old abandoned gl1000 a few years ago. I skipped the forks but the time has finally come to do them properly.

Il trucco del manico della scopa mi ha salvato la vita nello smontaggio della forcella della mia srx600, Grazie mille per il video!

I couldn't disagree more unfortunately. Fantastic results for little effort, nothing on the market comes close for a similar price.

Not stripping the engine then?

Good to have you back on the GL1000 project. I am following along whilst restoring my own 1976 Goldwing. Looking forward to the next installment.

WooooHooooo been looking forward to another video. 😎

Cool content...I have a complete 77 taken apart and boxed..if you ever need parts

If your idler bearings are dry , you can replace the bearing with a common kia / hyundai bearing , you just drill it out / grind off the back etc drill and countersink to 12mm , bolt them on loctite on nuts etc

Thank you! Great material - this is what small and big problems actually look like when making seemingly simple repairs. All the best, best regards.

Omg do you actually know how a pair of taper roller bearings work ?

My 77 calipers look nothing like these .

I devour every one of your films - they are absolutely perfect. This is a treasure trove of knowledge about Gl1000. The highest words of appreciation and respect for the quality of your work, knowledge and skills. Thank you for all the materials - not only those about GL 1000. Greetings from Poland. Jacek

I hope all is well in your world. I was looking forward to more on the Goldwing; your postings seem to have stopped? 😟

You didn't show the special socket tool to remove the clutch retaining nut.

An engine is an engine!?

Where did you buy the spokes?

I loved my 250 as a young guy, would have one of these now as I have a full licence

Thank you for your video, ive been tearing my hair out trying to figure out how to get the driveshaft off, i have a manual but the picture is really unclear, you clearly showed where the clip is i was trying to find.

There is a fourth way to get the pistons out of the caliper bodies without damaing the pistons or the calipers. Carefully put the caliper half into a vise, using shims to avoid marring the finish. Use a socket extension and a deep well socket to spin the piston. Wedging the extension and the socket by cam action, using a rachet drive, the piston will loosen so that you can pull it out of the bore. To see this technique demonstrated, go to "Ken's Garage" on KZbin.

An easy way to put the races into the head tube is to put the races in a plastic bag, then place them in the freezer overnight. When frozen, they contract slightly, allowing them to pop in with a lighter touch of the hammer, or with a press. Enjoying the series so far.😊

Just remove the 2 intake tubes on the right to get carbs out

Kill switch on or off

Hey, i highly advise you to replace the starter clutch rollers while the engine is out, its really common for them to get gummed up and stuck, either engaged, that will burn up the starter motor, stuck disengaged and make a horrible screeching sound My starter clutch on my 79 just got stuck disengaged, and i will be pulling the engine out to repair it

Where did you buy the stator?

What size socket is used for the clutch bolt the one that has the tap washer on it

super

What size and name of the tires did you use? Did you replace the inner tubes as well?? Thanks. Love your stuff.

what is the acid pickle made from?

There should be a one way return valve on the end of the spring, wasnt until i rebuilt mine with the new kit that didnt come with it that i realised, had to rebuild using the old valve

I'm currently working on my understanding of this bike. My dad had this as his first bike, about 15 years ago. He then got a newer Honda ST1100 Pan European, and the CBX has been standing still for almost 10 years, at this point. I'm getting it for free, and I can't wait to get the bike restored and take it for some joyful rides! The only costs to me will be new parts and maintenance.

I really want a classic Honda I can do some serious miles on. Id absolutely love a CX500C but these have also caught my eye. Is there a massive power difference and riding experience? Especially as a high miler, would it be a better idea to go for greater engine capacity, or are these 400s solid?

I bet you refill your buckets a lot with all that voltage.

Thanks . Best info ! Good job