by the way use coffee strainers to clean the bores-thers no cleaner way to clean the bores because they leave zero fluff

a good machinest could machine a crosshatch into your piston if you need that extra film. they machine very shallow channel around the piston in a figure-8 pattern

you can modify certain piston squirters to create two squirters per piston, you do this by stacking certain models of these that are thin and use the appropriate banjo to feed both. that's if you think that extra cooling would help your case

The engine building videos are definitely one of my favorite parts of your channel !!!

Awesome video, Hopefully those changes help your issue with wearing down the cross hatching. Also that sleeve doesn't seem look like Jeremy Allen's, Would that happen to be ramey built ? or maybe La Sleeves ?

As always, great video. Eventhough your car is at a racing level and mine is just a Sunday driver. I still enjoy watching your video and knowledge. I do have a question. Did you notice any oil consumption prior to the engine teardown?

Can't wait to get mine together and work with you tuning it. Great video thanks

I honestly think the issues with the cylinder burnishing comes from too much cylinder pressure, the top rings are forced outward by the power of combustion, the combination of ring hardness and cylinder surface finish is, in my slow opinion, the root cause of the burnishing. A stronger cylinder bore material will hold up better than the sleeves you have in there now. However a stronger cylinder wall material is also harder to hone properly, and is expensive to apply.

Those wear marks on your pistons are burnishing.

Your cylinders have a lot of burnishing, that's metal that's been folded over, which is why it looks dull and matte dark spots in the light. When light reflects well, it means the surface finish is uniform, because all the light rays are reflecting uniformly. The light reflection tells you a lot about surface finish.

If you want to do a cylinder finishing right, you need a rigid hone, and a profilometer to see the actual surface finish. Ball hone will work, but it won't last, or work as well as doing real precision machine work. It's not to say whatever you do with a ball hone will be bad, it's just that you're leaving a lot of performance on the table. You don't know how much your peak roughness is, which is what annihilates rings in the long run.

nice keep it up ..

Looking forward to this making a huge improvement.

Working on the clutch huh

do you pin fit your pin and rod?

I notice you don’t use plastigauge in general, any reason why? I’ve never had the measurements be off with it personally.

What kind of F24 rods and pistons do you recommend for NA set up. Road racing. Under 300 whp

Send me pics / or photo shoot

The manual says to put the ring gaps 180 degrees opposite to each other, which never made sense to me because the rings rotate on the piston, so the orientation of the gap will never be fixed.

Awesome video!

No better way to start a day! Thank you for the fresh content🏆

why didnt you get mechman alt... btw.. my bro-in-law gave me a honda block.. and turned out to be a k-series block i dont think he knew it was a k-series i only asked if it could have it he said sure.. i didnt even know at the time.. but im excited about it.. itll be a long journey.. i dont even a car for it.. LOL body an stuff will come wayyy later tho..

I hate spending OEM money at times, but in the long run, it's probably much cheaper.

I fight for voltage issues as well since a while, but its a s2000 issue, need to refresh wiring cable + and -, and like you did i replace the alternator with a “powerful “ ones i did bought 3 different versions of the ebay ones, and lithium battery, My one is a time attack car and in corners the steering rack was becoming hard, because to much electric consumption, Another thing i saw in your car which could be better, your valve cover breather are wrong the bang in the front cover are not baffled and oil is constantly splashed by the chain, i did a teat on mine in same position and i did removed immediately, you should drill the block and add a an10 bang to reduce the crankcase pressure, its a great solution to gain more power to, Another thing to gain more power is to remove the oem water pump block and use an electric water pump, maybe in your setup 10hp are not much but is sure that range of gain removing the water pump.

do you still have HID's? if so how do those hold up to the high voltage

Link to purchase?

Love the tear down vids 🔥🤝

Old injector hole size may be bored out allowing more fuel to be dumped. Perhaps showing the discrepancy of total volume. Spray pattern is a whole other story. Next video, showcase new vs old motocraft injectors.

I built one of those years ago. If you want it to be an accurate flow bench you need to plumb in a return style regulator to keep consistent pressure. Also with an adjustable regulator you can flow them at 3,4,5,etc bar pressures.

I got on Bosch website and they told me what my “1991 mustang 5.0” needed and I got them on rock auto for $20ea… Idk why people try to save $50…

This is why I always go with OEM (Motorcraft, Delphi) or Bosch for fuel system components. Until you replace injectors in a diesel, you really have no concept of spray pattern deficiency. It causes run problems including detonation which splits pistons like a log splitter splits logs.

Made in China 😢

If is says "made in China" stop buying it! How hard is it people?

chineseium garbage

Thanks for sharing this demonstration. I understand injector operation theory but a visual test clearly shows it.

Hey dude- I have a BMW E46 330 that I am building an M50 2.8L stroker with dual VVT and a big single turbo. My setup has a valve cover with a built in Air/Oil separator that I plan to hook up to a venturi vacuum generator on the exhaust- with a check valve. My last setup had no air oil separator and vented straight off the top of the valve cover to a 1in barb fitting. Said last setup would spew oil vapor all over my engine bay- so I ran a dump hose under the car as a temporary fix (that ended up lasting over a year until the car was totaled XD). I'm very interested to see if adding venturi exhaust suckers to your catch cans as a vacuum source would furthur reduce your crankcase pressure- even seeing if you get constant vacuum on the crankcase while in boost. Oh P.S. What did you use to datalog your crankcase pressure?

If you use connect a catch can to the inlet of the turbo you can use that suction to create a vacuum on the crankcase

Would you be going to start using Valvoline P&R for this car?. 😂😂😂

Thanks for the info

Do you consider fuel injector clinic good injectors?

Nice comparison video

well done. well done

Wonder if you should just leave the original catch can hooked up as well?

i like that topmount for what i'm doing

Awesome video man really informative, i have three pressure sensors here for my build and plan to get one more so ill be able to log as much things as possible.

Thank you for explaining the reasons why the coolant and the crankcase sensor are needed. Keep those videos coming.

0:02 Who's this We? You got a snake in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?

Schmuck's customer service absolutely SUCKS. Great products but if you have an issue, he does NOT take care of you.

As a welder I can tell you he is an AMAZING welder and fab guy. I had the pleasure of speaking with him at his booth at WCF. Extremely knowledgeable, super down to earth, and willing to help anyone.

Schmuck Built is the man, I bought the same manifold, downpipe and dump tubes from him.