Ye good idea with the salt. I carry salt tablets on long days now just encase

Can't say I agree. These have extended the life of some of my tires when normally they would need replacing due to cuts

I recently bought the frame bag, it's going great so far

It was probably around 8.5kg all up I would say

The more the merrier I say 😂

Lol, calm down

Not one that I've heard of. Any good?

@@SpinAnGrin look at jpaks look at bike bag dude .. and meritgear ..i find that cottage companies are so much better than factory made bags

Depends on the type of road biking. It's good up to about 42kmph and then you spin out. A 44T would be more efficient for the road but would then be too big for the gravel for the hills I ride on

Fair enough, you need to find the solution that works for you

Yes, I carry a small set of plugs and a couple of CO2 cartridges. Not had to use yet.

That's the aim, but you had to slightly unseat the tire to create a gap big enough to pour In the sealant

​@@SpinAnGrinThis Is sth I dont understand - I think the idea is to inject the sealant through the valve with an already seated tyre. Then there is a smaller chance of the sealant spilling out of the tyre.

Ye, so with most sealants you can do that like orange seal. But with Silca sealant you can't. Silca has little pieces of carbon fibre that will block the syringe so you have no choice but to poor it in.

@@SpinAnGrin Thanks. No I get it. I am considering getting a new bike and nearly all bikes with interesting specs come with hookless rims... A disastrous trend in my opinion.

I've never personally had any issues with hookless rims but it's a very hot topic now.

Love them 🤘

@@SpinAnGrin Hilarious, thanks for The video😁

Interesting, I've never had mine let any water in. Do you mount via the straps or the screws

The actual tyres? Road tires I find I get around 5/6000km before the top is squared off. Gravel it really depends on the brand. Some of the chunky ones can last on 2000km if I've been on the road. But pathfinder pro's last for a good 6/7000km I find

To be totally safe would limit it to around 300km in dry clean conditions. There tends to be a tipping point where the wear rate increases rapidly. Pop over to zerofrictioncycling and read his documents ! I've been waxing since 2020.

@@dawn_rider 300km sounds too often to me. It about 3x as often as ive seen recomended by manufacturers. I went on zerofriction but found 0 testing of the same chain ridden on the same wax for different lengths of time. I did see various breakdowns and charts that did not corelate to the information I was looking for. I would love to see it if its out there. If you know where the info is could you point me to it? What im seeing is its okay to run your wax to 800km If it gets wet clean and dry the chain. (Using running water/air, not towels) If the chain gets grumbly before 800km, its time to clean and rewax. But im not looking for 0 friction, just better than where I came from. The 1st chain I waxed was in 2001 on my kawasaki, using maxima chain wax. I dont think theyve changed the logo on the cans. Funny, its parafin too! If you wanted a spray wax. I should have stated im new to waxing bike chains. Also, wax holds up just fine in the wet/grimy conditions. (On motorcycles) it is good to not let the muck dry in the chain. Technically you should be fine not drying the chain, it shouldnt corrode. Drying wont really prevent rust, it will expedite it. Any bare metal that can rust will develop surface rust after drying from a water bath. Wax is technically a solvent that coats the metal and bonds to it like a penetrating lubricant would. Only sufficient force or chemical processes can remove the wax enough to form rust. The main reason a lubricant outperforms wax in this area is lube is still fluid and can resaturate anywhere its been removed in normal use. The wax must be reheated to become fluid before it can resaturate areas it was removed from. Removing enough wax for rust to form would take quite a bit of wear. This is the most common complaint ive seen from those riding in dirty/wet enviornments. These are the ones saying just rewax when it gets grumbly. Luckily I live in a desert, called California. We use all the water on the palm trees to live that holywood lifestyle! So im on the upper end of wax life on a bike chain. Im doing all this to a mountainbike that was given to me. (2014 trek remedy 7) im using 2 new kmc 10spd chains. If i keep this bike its getting a drivetrain overhaul before too long. I hate 3x front derailleurs and am so glad humanity moved forth. After I get a gravel bike dialed in im going to circle my attention back to the mtb. But for now I need a bike ready for me to put down more miles on. The last road bike I used was a schwinn varsity I collected in 2010. It was so much fun to ride, im looking to get back that direction. Do you have any recommendations on a good gravel bike? Ive been eyeing a Specialized Crux, Pinarello Grevil f3, or a Trek domain. I would love to consider similar options in the $2,500ish range for a new bike. I dont love the domain's max tire size, crux feels expensive for aluminum, pinarello im stuck on a shimano 600 drivetrain. All would need some upgrades to get where I want them.

Ticking: your derailleur hanger might need adjustment

I always weigh it so I know how many gr of carbs im getting in total. It's just the measurements I've always used for training targets. I don't add anything else into the sugar mix as u run electrolyte tablets in my water bottle. Same with the BCAAs an alike. Ive not tried adding flavouring as I enjoy the sweetness of the solution anyway. Might give it a try through ! How do you find the taste of the brown sugar

Oh yes, the slight furry feeling is never nice 😅

That's why I rinse my mouth after every "sip". (although I should probably be more worried about the energy bars I eat as well since they tend to stick much more to my teeth)