I don't understand the the power supply ground, what is it hook to?

can you show how you wired this? and where did you get the switch thx

MI never sleep

Heeheee visto otros 3208 turbo que dan 250HP de fabrica.

But you didn't explain the setting in relation to the timing. I'm confused, looks like you are just shortening the piston travel on the injector and reducing the amount of fuel that it can squirt into the cylinder. The timing is controlled by the cam, and adjusting the piston travel longer or shorter doesn't affect timing per say. What am I missing here?

Great tool and I'm on the hunt for one in Australia but seem pretty scarce? Might need to do an import? Any suggestions from where that might be best?

I'm still driving on factory Michelin tires from 2214

Hi! Can you tell me where I can find a governor throttle shaft seal and bushing for a 3208 Gov/pump? The internet knows nothing... THANK YOU

Hearing these horror stories, makes me wish you would name drop the offending company so people would know who to stay away from, heck, if I had my way I would go find this company and buy them out and donate the time to resolve and fix the issues the clients are having and get rid of the individuals who are doing this crap, I want to find someone to help me with my skoolie but these horror stories are making me think twice about the skoolie life I want to pursue!!

Thank God for honest people like yourself.

I think u should expose those who stole these people's money.

Freakin awesome tool!!! Love mine also!!! 👍✌

All depends on risk you're willing to take. 10 years is the idiot mark, but even today they are still very plentiful. I wouldn't trust a tire older than 10 years on my hot rod.

Great videos, are you ok?

Maximum of Five Years since the manufacturing of the Radial/tubeless tyres seems to be the safest period, if we run the vehicle regularly considering the conditions of the roads constructed on varieties of terrains, traffic conditions and different types of season/weather conditions in India. Thanks for the video.

What about front breaks? They have a different design (on my 87 ford schoolie) no thread rod however a small funny bolt head exists covering an indentation of some sort (googling for more info led me to you)

I think it's more about erring on the side of caution. Having a tire blow out while you're on the freeway is not gonna be a fun experience. It's also gonna depend on how you drive or road conditions. However, having cracks or having little tread left are sure signs that you need new tires.

You know I watched some of your videos last night. I was a little put off by the comments and the idea that you were going through these buses and pointing out things that are wrong. Once I started getting through them and learned that it was a "company" performing the "work" for clients, not to mention the amounts they charge, I started to realize the video critiques were necessary. The work they are doing is clearly dangerous. The quality is absolutely insane. It would be nice if you could just trust everyone to do the right thing. I will say my favorite part is how good it makes me feel about my own build.

Thanks for this! I just purchased a 1966 Dodge/Blue Bird with its original wheels and some pretty old tires. The tires are still holding air, but i'm dreading what happens when they finally give out. I plan to put the bus in a laneway that's only 11 feet wide so I'm trying to visualize how I'll deal with that situation if it arises. Your video helped!

thank you for sharing 🥰

Thank you good Sir - I have a damaged spline shaft as well for a motor, and you have given me the idea how to repair it. God Bless, from Singapore!

You had me flared up at the crooked ladder and the crooked ladder holders. That just says so much if they don’t have enough respect to make sure that is straight.

What a nightmare!

Ughhhh. Im planning a conversion and cant decide between a small wheelchair bus or a van conversion. Everytime I try to decide there are always 2 issues that come up: 1) amount of living space (I want a little more room than a van will offer) and 2) THIS!!!! My biggest concern with a bus is getting a flat tire in the middle of nowhere. I am a solo traveller and know how heavy these tires are. Im pretty strong for a female but watching how much you struggled with this I have some doubts. Thank you so much for doing this video "the manual way" and showing us fellow travellers that it CAN be done. I believe we should at least know how to everything the manual way as a plan B incase there are situations when the powered options arent available.

What year is it

This was $45,000? I would gut it and start over!

Hello do these trucks have a voltage regulator and where is it located. Thanks for the info.

Is there any update about this project

Well explained, planning to install it in my diesel car. will stop having to prime all the time.

Hello I am having a alternator charge issue and I believe it’s the voltage regulator but I have no idea where it is located?? Do you know where the voltage regulator is on these trucks? Any do would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Montebello elementary school mechanical problems

faucet makes pumps for diesel that allow free flow thru them so you do not need all that plumbing. pump price comes in less cost wise by time one adds all extra fittings and check valve to make a bypass. Took me weeks staring at websites to find a pump with a high free flow thru with pump off claim. Hope below helps others in making decisions. Was important to me to find a "free low thru" pump just so could eliminate extra potential air leaks, that one ends up with by plumbing in a bypass. Free flow amount was important as well to reduce or have no restrictions to fuel flow. .. In line with that idea.. keeping EVERYTHING similar ID thru whole system was my (stupid?) goal. Again If yall dont care about few more hose clamps (thus more possible air leaks )or restriction to fuel flow..... then stick with standard fuel line system and a Faucet Purlator pump that states to be a free flow thru.... and it will be very reasonable in cost... No bypass needed (though you will need a check valve). My not wanting any additional restrictions via step down and back up to the systems fuel line ID, cost me ton more. 99% of pumps actually have smaller ID ports on them at each end, than what your fuel lines actually are. Pumps fittings you use, is what step it back up to your preferred fuel line ID. Each end of pump port is usually closer to 1/4 inch. My fuel system lines are closer to 3/8 so went with 3/8 npt ported facuet pump. No restrictions thru the whole system by variable sized ports. Vehicle fuel return is 1/4 inch. Sadly though; at needed lower pressure applications in old diesels like ours, AND to meet my (stupid?) same fuel system ID goal; Facet was the ONLY pump with 3/8 npt ports on each end but also only available in a 24v at that size port. Again, If one does not care about same ID thruout; the options are greater, such as the one he used in this vid. I just got a 15buck step up to 24v converter. A negative with faucet though. is their weird micro rating for prefilter requirement of 74 micron or less. if going AN fittings... nothing on the market fits well to that. unless again if you dont care about hose clamps and flow restrictions.... In that case your fine if you just use the prefilter w/ hose barbs most pumps manufactures recommend. 80+% of inline fuel pumps out there are high flow , high pressure pumps for modern Injection systems.. (aka.. more susceptible to damage) yet require only a 100 micron prefliter... so the in line AN type prefilter market is created around that. These common high pressure pumps dont work with older diesels without adding a pressure regulator that are as costly or higher than the pump itself. This meant that sticking with the Faucet; the closest match to the 74micron inline AN type cleanable stainless mesh prefilter said to work with diesel, is a 40 micron filter. Going to that small a micron one will have to clean it more often. I bet pump he used here actually requires a prefilter too.. not sure why he chose not to use one. Companies package them separate hoping you dont buy one.. then you damage your pumps more often and they sell more pumps Myself Am gambling in using a 50 micron PETROL Pre pump filter (not rated for diesel). Further up line; after pump, a 30 micron stainless mesh cleanable filter that is replacing the OEM inline filter... prone to be an air leaker. Then on to the OEM spin on 10micron filter.. All in all, fairly minimal fittings used. Fittings that screw together and (supposedly to be) forever non leak joints. with hose that (supposedly) will never break down inside.... sooooooo.. hopefully I will never get an air leak in future. If had gone with traditional rubber/steel lines again, I'd be pushing 90-100+years old by time that system becomes lots of air leaks again / ages out in the rust belt where I live; thus all needing replaced completely again.. I wont be up to that task then. With AN fittings and PTFE hose hopefully am avoiding that. Cleaning wise of stainless mesh filters.... should be easy to remove inline screw together filter's mesh...... so should be OK doing that till I croak. Via AN fittings am using AN fitted checkvalve to keeps system primed when engine or elec. primer pump is off. It will go inline similar to what he did here. Any diesel system should have that .... bypass or not. Keep in mind most inline pumps have check valve built in (thus why restricted or no free flow thru them) so with those your your back to HAVING to have a bypass system if your intent is for it to be ONLY a primer pump. If it is your ONLY pump from tank to IP or Governor.. (aka you bypass your mechanical fuel pump) then you will not need a check valve. In c an added elec. primer pump design .. , normal driving would use mechanical pump on the engine. Advantage to that over full time electric, you can roll start and drive; if I have too on a bad day. Again, Free flow thru type elec. pumps do not have internal check valves so; like bypass system , you have to put a checkvalve somewhere to prevent un-priming/bleed back to tank. ??where to put checkvalve when using elec. primmer pump?? and not a bypass system .... maybe just between pump's prefilter and the pump??? so almost whole system wont loose prime when pump or engine is off.? Keeps check valve semi protected by a filter, too.... but then again. everything ahead of that un-primes / makes a mess, when cleaning/ changing any of your inline filters.. If one can put two checkvalves.? one like suggest above... and one right after last of the inline filters, far back as possible from engine but still after final inline filter between tank and engine..... then less stuff un-primes/makes mess when dealing with the inline filters... Myself am not pocket thick so cant do that. Now sure which way I'll go ???? Besides mess. not a huge deal though.. can use elec. primer pump to reprime everything after any filter cleaning... Priming is what it is there for.

Terrific explanation. The diagram was a great help.

Looking to get my first vintage bus to convert into a rv i would love one with a 2 stroke Detroit and a manual transmission what is a good starter bus i am 19 and i love vintage semis and vintages vehicles

Does this work on ac voltage too?

Can be this used not with 12 volt connector and instead reference voltage ( 5 volts) for sensors in automotive?

SIR, thank you so much for creating this video. I purchased a car which the prior owner kept in the garage. the tires have "good tread." That said, I went to a Tire Shop to have the tires balanced. it was then I found out my two front tires were 10 years old and the rear were less than that. They refused to Balance them based on year. I was confused. I was told they cannot balance after 10 years. Discount TIRE of course tried to sell me two tires. I said no. Why am I buying two NEW tires when the tires I have still have GOOD tread? Of course I was uneasy. I actually scheduled an appointment t get 4 new tires. However, I was not happy with this. I did my research. I have always believe you don't believe everything you read on the internet and you must do your own research. THE TAKE AWAY FROM YOUR VIDEO IS SPOT ON. Science is the key component. Your video was very helpful. What you demonstrated was show me the science. It is utterly CRAZY. So, dos this mean if tires are no good after 7, 8 or 10 years, clothing, shoes, engine parts, etc. should be determined the same way. However, there is no science to prove otherwise. A person can put a pair of shoes up on the shelf for 10 yeas does this mean those of us who are NOT stupid enough to make JORDAN richer should buy new shoes if we don't wear them after ten years? My point is when you evaluate the (science) what these LAWYERS and others are saying is a BRAND NEW TIRE 10 YEARS OLD OR A TIRE WHICH HAS BEEN SLIGHTLY USED AFTER TEN YEARS IS NO GOOD. HOW? Prove this please. Therefore, those retailers selling tires should have to inform the customer that NO matter if you use the tire or not after ten years it will be no good. I bet they will never say this because then they would not make the sale. Thanks for your video.

Glad you got home. Pruno

This is bad. I am not a builder of any kind and I can tell this is way bad.

Looks good but won't work if you have door panels

Awesome! This helps alot

The tire had a slow leak. Add air with air compressor and return to the shop where the tires were purchased or change the tire later at a better and dryer location. I like your tork multiplier I have never seen one before today. Thanks for the great video.

Trying to find out where you got the alligator clip for the ground probe.

Hi. I am new and looking to buy a bus, but now i am nervous. Ty so much for this video, because i might have done the same thing. We wish we were younger to do this ourselves because i know i would have done a better job, being a perfectionist myself. We live in Colorado and hope to have our own bus by fall. And looking for a reasonable priced builder.

15:22 Seriously? That would be funny if it weren’t so sad.

FYI you can buy "flow through" fuel pumps so you can just put it inline and not need the extra lines and check valve. For gas engines, anyway. Not sure if it's the same for diesel.

дуже корисна штука

What a shit box

You should take a air powered jack and have a air connection on bus airline and make the jacking process real easy

Those particular rivets in the hat channels came off without much trouble for me using the chisel bit on the air hammer and then using the pointed bit to blast them out. The ones in the chair rails were a whole 'nother animal though. The chisel bit just wallered out the sheet metal. Cutting a cross in the head with a cutting disc allowed the chisel to remove the head without damaging the sheet metal. good stuff. (I'm shortening a bus in case you're wondering why I'm removing the chair rail rivets)