N1 pump, billet gears and crank collar. 1.2mm oil restrictors in the block.

Exactly the same for the 20e mate 👌🏼

How did ya go mate

Yeah mate. It’s so you can correctly time the engine because the timing mark on the crankshaft timing gear is directly behind the balancer and you need to align that with a cutout on the oil pump.

Okay, I've watched this about 3 times. To ensure it's tdc and on intake stroke. What's the method. Sparkplug remove/#1 piston All exhaust valves closed? And distributer you never removed? And the oilpump notch to the notch to crank. Then there's another notch just up from there. Is that for the harmonic balancer? And cam timing. Just slightly to the passenger side, not directly straight. Is there a notch for that or nah! Hahahahahahahaa you'll laugh at this but hey! There's not much rb30 stuff on here and some of us are newbies. God you make it look easy. I mean I have a general idea! But I'd rather ask a million questions then jump the gun & wing it.

Spark plug #1 removed Piston at the top of the bore on compression stroke, put your finger over the hole to feel the pressure. The cam gear timing mark should be towards the top but slightly to the right. The crankshaft timing gear should point to the oil pump notch. This is where you can look at the dizzy rotor button to verify it’s pointing towards number 1 if the cap was on. This is where you can remove old belt and replace with a new one etc or pull the engine down from that point. There’s another mark on the lower timing cover when it’s installed that lines up with TDC mark on the harmonic balancer when it’s installed and this is what you use to adjust the timing with a light when the engine is running, you can also use these marks to verify the engine is in time without pulling the balancer off etc. I’ve been tinkering with VL’s for 25 years now, I’ve done it lots of times mate haha.

@dalevloghlan8771 that's why I thought I'd ask. Yeah your video shows most of it! But it doesn't hurt to ask. And don't tell me that. You'll forever have my comments hahaha my vl is white too, i just blew my motor up so I bought a running one and I just wanna freshen up the important things so I know it's done. :) so far I've done welshplugs, rear main seal, sump gasket, rocker gasket. New clutch hahaha the list is continuous. I just rather know then not :) even though it sits 90% off the time

Put new motor in, got it running but now died. It ran good untill it was warm and then splattered. Popped and wasn't idling 100 percent. I did roughly just put dizzi in and left it. Now I've restarted Ive put it to tdc from spark plug hole #1 Put dizzi in facing #1 Tried to start. It wouldn't I'd have to undo the dizzi bolt and turn it 180 for it to run. Then id restart. Is there a more efficient way of doing it. As in checking other markings or knowing compression strokr

There’s two types of distributor for the RB30, Mitsubishi and Hitachi, the Hitachi has a little Nissan symbol on it and the Mitsubishi has their symbol. Each type has a different type of CAS and slightly different body and the CAS isn’t interchangeable but the top plug is the same. Have a look at the one you have and go from there.

Yeah the light comes on the dash and the control switch light changes colour from memory

H4 is correct for the high/low beam globe and the other globe is a single filament H3 high beam. When you hit high beam the H4 will light up the second filament and the H3 globe will turn on.

@@dalevloghlan8771 oh got ya. I thought last owner put the wrong bulb in. There a H4 already in it but doesn't work on low beam but only on high beam. Springs not broken inside. But sure what's going on then...

Sorry , when high beam turned on only the H3 light comes on. Parker lights work. But getting nothing from H4 bulbs, that's on both sides. Might be a wiring issue, fuse is good.

I’ve had the whole headlight harnesses play up before. I would check the H4 headlight socket with a test light or multimeter, might be some corrosion etc or it could possibly be your indicator/headlight stalk, there’s contacts inside that could potentially fail.

@@dalevloghlan8771 good news today, ended up being the fuse, put a bigger one in and now lights working. Im missing mirrow n cruise control fuse, is it bay 16 and what size fuse? Thank man

You definitely can grind the head of the stud down if you want, however from a structural point of view if you do that you could compromise the integrity of the metal that the stud is made from and that would cause it to be weaker in the long run. Considering the lug on the inside of the rocker cover does not serve the same kind of structural purpose that the stud does I decided that was the better option for me.

Yeah mate, it will work with a standard turbo ecu, not sure if it’s worth the hassle though

You need to use the factory coil wiring to trigger the CDI, the problem I had when setting up mine was that the CDI would not see the signal because of the voltage requirement, so I had to buy a thing called an MSD Tach Adaptor (which is basically a dummy coil) which converted the voltage into what the CDI unit needed then it worked like a charm 👌🏼

@@dalevloghlan8771 thanks man I watched the video already have the tach adaptor 👍 your vids have been a massive help keep up the good work thanks again for the reply.

Harness upgrade is 100% worth it for either of the bulbs

How did you manage to get the big dust caps back on behind the headlights

Yeah mate, it’s the pro series kit

Thanks mate 😁 I wasn’t expecting the plenum to be such a pain but I got there in the end.

@@dalevloghlan8771 looks so nice mate! I’m just down on the Central Coast. It would be cool to catch up at some point to compare VLs haha

That would be sweet 👌🏼 my mate and I were talking about going for a cruise down there soon.

@@dalevloghlan8771 maaad, I’ll ping ya on Insta mate👌🏼

There’s isn’t one in the fuse box for the battery mate. What there is however is a fusible link in the main power harness that runs off the positive side of the battery, if that blows from an over-current condition you will have no power to the computer/efi system, it is essentially a protection device.

Not long back into the country, stuck in quarantine 😂

One of the best upgrades I’ve done 👌🏼

I’ve never done the conversion personally but I wouldn’t believe they would be bolt on as the backing plates for the handbrake etc would be different. I’m sure it could be done with some messing around but I doubt the stopping power of the vx brakes over the standard ones would be worth it noting that the fronts do the majority of the work.

Thanks mate, keen to make more vids soon, got a few big things happening on the car, should make for some interesting viewing 👌🏼

I personally wouldn’t sand blast an engine due tot he grit getting stuck in the oil galleries etc. Using a wire wheel should be good enough to get the block bare for paint. Make sure you high pressure wash it plenty of times with degreaser before finally using some wax and grease remover at the end 👌🏼

Thanks for your reply! Definitely made the mistake with the sand blasting how much raptor did you use I might give it a crack this weekend Cheers Corey

One of my cars has a VS Booster and VT master, the other one has a standard single diaphragm booster with VL Turbo/V8 master, both run the VT front brakes with plenty of stopping power. The VS Booster and VT master just has a softer pedal feel in my opinion.

I’m upgrading to VS booster at VT master, I have the thread adaptors but I’ve forgotten which order the lines go into the master cyl

VT and VX are the same mate, so yes you can use them 👌🏼

@@dalevloghlan8771 how about VX diff can I use that aswell. Thank you

Nah mate it’s not bolt in, you would have to fabricate mounts etc, would be a nightmare.

It’s the same amount of work as I showed for the Hitachi, it’s just the shape of the housing and cas are different, so you can’t use the hitachi style in the mitsu and vice versa. I would assume that the bearing is the same, however I can’t 100% tell you that it is. Your best bet would be to knock the bearing out as shown in the video and take it to your local bearing shop and they can match it up for you. I’ve done this in the past before they made kits to rebuild them.

I’ve ran the exact setup you described in the past and experienced no issues, it will be more than satisfactory. I upgraded to the VT front calipers, left the factory single diaphragm metal booster and replaced the master with the 1 inch bore VL Turbo/V8 master cylinder. I will be doing this also to my Blue Calais. My White Calais has the VT master/VS booster combo, in my opinion between the two, the stopping power is the same, the VT/VS combo just has a better pedal feel.

I got that one on eBay, but I noticed that holdcom.com also sell them now 👌🏼

@@dalevloghlan8771 awesome thanks. yeah i got a holdcom one in my cart haha. I'm binge watching all your vids

Thanks for the support mate. Hopefully they motivate you to tackle some jobs 👌🏼

It’s basically a ball and spring inside, once the spring tension is overcome it bypasses the oil to the return side only allowing a certain amount of pressure to the turbo. It has no affect on the actual engine oil pressure the pump puts out.

@@dalevloghlan8771 i got one installed but not started engine yet, and just realised if this is like.a fuel.regulator and not like hydraulic valve( oil pressure controll on both sides of the plunger) will bassically work like the man pump.bypass, i belive oil pressure will be limited on high rpm

Yeah pretty much, what it means is your turbo will get the same amount of oil pressure at all stages of the rev range, thus preventing too much oil pressure to the turbo at high rpm so it doesn’t leak past the seals.

@@dalevloghlan8771 yes i.understand, but i was refearing to block.pressure, if this is just a bypass it will also.limit the block.pressure to 40?

No mate, that’s incorrect and not how fluid dynamics works. The pressure from the pump is controlled via the relief valve in the pump right after the output from the pump gears, meaning all the components the oil galleries travel to will get that same pressure taking into account losses for the distance travelled and size of the galleries etc. The OPR 40 installs in the turbo oil feed and gets the same oil pressure the pump produces at the inlet, it allows the turbo to get the desired pressure as per the preset tension, the excess oil is then relieved out of the OPR drain and then back to the sump therefore having no effect on the actual pressure inside the block.

With standard globes they should fit back on fine. My LED’s have little ballasts on the back, so it’s a tight fit having the ballast and the extra plug in there so mine are mostly on.

Excellent, going to have to find some time to get this done!

@@grovebmxa I cut an small X into the back of the rubber dust cover and poked the loom through

It was super easy, worthwhile for sure.

It’s probably not worth it if you’re going to keep it N/A for awhile. I would sort out the bugs with the car first, improve suspension, brakes etc. In the mean time, plan the build, work out your budget and slowly accumulate the parts over time. Then when you have everything, do the turbo conversion. Even better would be to buy a spare motor if you are going to forge it and build that on the side, that way you can still drive the VL and enjoy it rather than having it off the road a long time.

I agree. It’s definitely getting a more efficient burn and I can only imagine it will improve again throughout the rev range once I put it back on the dyno.

It’s worthwhile to do. More often than not the bearing starts to fail and throws dust through the optical sensor.

I’ve heard rumours but I’m unsure if it’s truth or not. I dealt with him and had no issues, it’s a fantastic product and I can’t fault it.