@@PatrickCARUANA-q8g you would need to change the drain plumbing on the internal shower and both sinks as they are connected to the grey water tank. You already have 200 litres of fresh water capacity and if you have a look at our “water management” video, I show you how we carry an additional 110 litres and refill our water tanks when we are off-grid

@@tonylander3512 it’s pretty easy once you’ve done it a few times. Also much easier once you upgrade to the Aussie Traveller Anti Flap Kit (see our video on that). We don’t bother with the annex for overnight or weekend trips (sometimes put one wall up as a wind break) but if we are staying somewhere for a few days or more, then the annex can be a huge bonus in poor weather. We are currently living in our van while we are organising a new home build and wouldn’t want to be without the extra weatherproof space 👍 It takes me about 20 minutes to complete the whole skirt and annex on my own.

No problem

Thanks for your question, you would need to contact the manufacturer to get details on the circuit board. I am just an end user and fellow camper, sharing my experience with the water heater. I don’t know anything about troubleshooting the PCB sorry.

We’re happy that our video helped, feel free to subscribe to our channel and check out our other videos that may also help. Sounds like your salesman didn’t know much about the product he was selling 😢

@@AusCampingquite disappointed with the experience tbh, thankful for you guys on KZbin to enlighten us with your wealth of knowledge. Have subscribed!

Thanks, portable hot water system that I stored in the rear tunnel boot and hung on the back of the kitchen slide when we set up. Should be a post on one of the Opus facebook groups about it. (Search posts by Craig Nuttall or AusCamping)

@@AusCamping I founded it, exciting job!

No, we haven’t had any problems with fumes, a small vent I no try he bottom (like the gas side) would be enough if you were concerned

@@AusCamping Thank you

Had this issue recently with ours also. It’s not real easy to dismantle but I removed the clamp ring, found the pin hole and sealed it with a water proof tape and then reassembled it. So far it is still holding but I suspect we will need to replace the unit or at least the holding tank

Glad it was helpful!

Glad I could help 🍻

Well, this is just my opinion, but it is a Chinese import (like many others these days) so you should expect to do a bit of DIY to get it set up exactly as you want it. Unfortunately, not everyone is willing to to that, but still, they buy a van for $60K and then give bad reviews when they find that it doesn’t compare to the $120K van that they really wanted but couldn’t afford. Add to that, that Starvision hasn’t really had a very consistent after sales service with warranty repairs etc, then you get additional poor reviews from those who have been let down by customer service. As you can probably tell from our other videos, we do our own upgrades and modifications to suit our needs, if anything needs fixing, then we do it ourselves because it’s faster and less stressful than chasing Starvision for minor issues. It’s still a good van, in fact we are living in it full time at the moment and quite likely will be for the next year while we are building in WA. However, if we were buying again today on the same budget, we would not go with Starvision. You might be interested in having a look at “Arctic Campers”, they have a better quality finish, better quality inclusions, and a very positive customer community group on Facebook. By all accounts, their customer service and after sales support is excellent.

I didn’t install it mate, I’m just helping others understand how to use it. But I agree, the manufacturer could have done better.

@@AusCamping sorry mate was taking the piss I love it

All good mate 🍻

Would be happy to do a walkthrough if we get the opportunity, however we have relocated to Western Australia and Arctic isn’t here yet.

Yes, we currently use a VanConnect 4G router from Cowfish technologies. You can check our video about that here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iV7ClaJ3obOiack VanConnect also has a 12V Starlink option now, we will be adding Starlink to our setup soon and will make another video about that.

Hi Dale, red light comes on if the burner fails to ignite or gets blown out and fails to reignite. In a quiet environment, if you turn the switch on, you should hear a clunk sound as the gas valve opens, followed by a ticking sound which is the ignition sparking and if you listen carefully, you can hear the gas ignite (similar to a gas BBQ). If your system is new, it can take multiple ignition attempts before you actually get gas all the way from the bottle to the water heater as the gas line is likely full of air. You should still hear the ignition but if no flame results, then the gas valve closes and the red light comes on. If on the other hand, you get ignition initially but the flame goes out after a while and that is a recurring problem, then you’ll need to take a closer look at the manifold and make sure it is mating hard up against the external wall plate, if not, it will be in taking the exhaust which is already oxygen depleted and causes a flame out after a while.

No problem, we haven’t had our OP2 for a while now but decided to leave the videos online to help others 👍

You are welcome

Yeah I know the feeling, some maintenance jobs are a pain in the arse but almost all are a pain in the hips and knees these days 🙄 Always worth the little bit of extra effort to do them properly and put them out of mind 👍

@@AusCamping yep, good feeling to know next trip after my next FIFO swing I won't be worrying about leaky fitting!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks! 👍

Thank you! Cheers! 🍻

You're welcome, it’s nice to know that it helps 👍

No problem, we are campers ourselves so we prefer to present a campers point of view and not a sales pitch.

In theory, the check valve in the pump will do the job but it’s not very expensive to put one inline and it takes the pressure load off the pump as well as giving you an additional fail safe.

Well spotted 🤣🤣🤣🤣 🥃🥃

Thank you!

Exciting times ahead, I hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoy ours 🍻

Thanks Andrew it’ll be an adventure, that’s for sure but sometimes you just have to throw caution to the wind and follow your dreams. (That’s what we’re telling ourselves anyway) 🤣🤣🤣

Thank you!! 🍻🍻

Using the original holes from the manufacturer which I did not drill. You are correct though, I hadn’t allowed the roller to back off a bit. When I do that, the AF bar lifts to a better position and the gutter disappears. It’s just over extended in the video but thanks for your input

Thanks 🍻 We purchased the “Mini Rafter (#2)” it comes in 1 standard length and fits well 👍

Nice work! 🤣🤣

Hey Mark, sounds like you are well down the path of troubleshooting. Trace the gas line back from the heater and check that there isn’t another isolation valve that has been turned off. Each appliance will have its own isolation valve. It’s good that your hobs are working because that indicates gas is available but may still be isolated from the heater. After that, if you are still not getting ignition, then I would suggest that you contact Truma for further support. I haven’t had the need (so far) to dig into the gas jet or igniter and I’m not one of those people that pretends to know everything. I’m happy to say “I don’t know” in this case rather than give advice on something that I am not 100% sure about. Let me know how you get on with it and perhaps we can share your experience with others. 🍻

Cheers 🍻 we like things to be easy, having a jumpstart right there on the switch panel certainly helps 👍

Hi Lynn, in the 3min-9min portion of the video, I talk about the most common installation issue that causes repetitive flame outs and right at the beginning, I talk about making sure you bleed any air out of the system and that the Hot water system is full of water. Lack of water will cause the heater to shutdown and poor airflow/ installation will cause flame out.

Hey Roland, we are ok, thanks for asking. We have been busy with some life changes and organising those changes. Our van is in storage while we get things sorted out but we hope to have an update on our plans and movements in the next month or two. 👍

@@AusCamping Thanks for the update Craig. 👍

I wondered about that, but Anett assured me that nobody wanted to see me drop my pants 😱🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Our pleasure!

You’re welcome 👍

I’ve installed these in two different campers now and more than happy with them. They’re a Chinese import but an Aussie store so you’ve got good support, Australian Consumer law protection and they also have a good supply of spares if you ever need them. aussieoutbackstore.com.au/collections/diesel-heaters

No problem 👍

Definitely need to get that looked at, have you checked to see that it has the mandatory pressure regulator installed on the inlet line? They aren’t designed to handle full water pump pressure or mains water pressure.

@@AusCamping that I also wondered with pressure I’m on bore and pump setup the water quality is very good but when I’m washing dishes I get a surge of pressure so the heater is getting this surge as well

You’re welcome 😊

Glad it was helpful!

If the LED is not coming on, then it could be a blown fuse, I'll post a link to the user manual, check page 5, the troubleshooting section lists your symptoms regarding no LED and the Maintenance - Fuses section (also on page 5) has the fuse location and specification information. www.caravansplus.com.au/pdf/Truma-Ultra-Boil-Manual.pdf

@@AusCamping Sorry Craig. The led does come on after 30 sec or so. Yesterday, I took the cylinder out the motorhome (quite a job) and it is now on the bench. I cleaned it out with a compressor. The gas inlet looks clean. Would it be advisable for me to replace the Flame Rectification Electrode and/or ignitor (unbelievable expensive) for a new one before putting everything back in the motorhome, just in case? I don't think there is an easy way to test these. Thanks for your reply, Klaas

@@Klaas_Hat that stage, I would be seeking advice from the manufacturer. The unit is either failing to ignite or flaming out and failing to reignite. I would think that Truma would be able to advise the most common cause.

We like the walk around bed on our CX3, but both vans have pros and cons that will be different for everyone. Arctic also have a van with the side fold out like our CX3.

A saw that on their website, the Frost15S. Really like the seating area on the left as you walk in too

With any DC/DC charger, your jumper switch is simply going to link the alternator positive input terminal of the DC/DC charger to the positive 12V output terminal of the DC/DC charger (the caravan battery connection. Looking at the manual for the Renogy 50, you would add your jump wire to the “IGN ALT+” terminal then run that to your momentary push button switch, then from the other side of the switch to the “OUT+” terminal of the DC/DC charger. When you push the switch, you will bridge your starter battery directly to the caravan battery(s) which will wake the BMS if it’s in sleep mode. The DC/DC charger will then see the connected battery and will start passing charge current from your vehicle battery/alternator. You really only need to press your jumper switch for a second or two and the whole system comes to life.