I believe it's on the driver's side of the transmission, near where the driver's side cv axle comes out. I'm not 100% sure, but the transmission is an AISIN F21

Unfortunately I got rid of the truck 7 years ago. There's a good Chris fix video on it though

150% it's worth changing. typically every 30K miles or 50K km. Regardless of mechanical improvements, the oil still lives in a very harsh environment. Lots of heat and mechanical stress causes the oil to break down, requiring maintenance every so often. That's the best way to keep it running good and happy for long time.

It's the wife's. I might do one on the gauge cluster repair, but the only other video I have on it is an oil change video

@6speeddakota Oh, okay. I'm having issues with mine. 3 lights come on at the exact same time. ABS, Service Light with a wrench, and Trac off. There are no engine codes at all on it. Also, when I have to put it into drive, I have to put it slightly in 3rd then bring it back to drive then it will go. It's an automatic. Runs great and shifts great. Was thinking of changing the shifter cable and the shift assembly. So was hoping for a detailed video. Not many videos online about my sunfire. And not many on cavaliers either

Sorry, can't help you too much there. This car is bare bones and doesn't have ABS or traction control. Have the codes scanned at an auto parts store, they typically do it for free. It's most likely a wheel speed sensor or something simple that's caused the issue. I'm not sure if you can adjust the shift cable, but it sounds like it's stretched. They're not overly expensive and I had a friend with the same car have his snap just the other day and left him stranded.

Try rockauto.com, they have everything

Thanks

I'm assuming you have a misfire after putting in new plugs. What you need to do is start by doing a cylinder drop test. Do this quickly so you don't fry the catalytic converters. Unplug either the injector or coil while it's running. If the engine runs worse, plug it back in, it should get better. Repeat that process until you find the one that doesn't change how the engine runs. Take that coil, and swap it with the another one, easiest is the one beside it. Make sure to clear the trouble codes before you try , sometimes the computer will disable that injector to prevent catalytic converter damage. Repeat the test again with the swapped coil. If the misfire moved to the cylinder with the suspect coil, there's your problem; it needs a new coil. If the misfire stays with that cylinder, the coil is not your issue. Sometimes the spring falls out of the end of the coil when the coils get old and you remove the coils. If that's the case, the coil cannot fire the plug because there's no way for the energy to get from the coil to the plug.

Automatic transmission fluid in the transmission. Make sure you get the correct stuff for it. There is no rear differential or transfer case in a FWD application, so you don't need to worry about that at all.

Okay! Yay! I'll get the right transmission fluid. Never hear about a transfer case before! I was like oh no! Perfect. One less thing! @@6speeddakota

I don't believe these ever came with a limited slip. If you lift it up and rotate a wheel, the other side should spin in the opposite direction. If that's the case, it's not a limited slip

​@@6speeddakotaThank you my man 🎉 cheers

If it's an AWD then it does

Thank you! So, my regular transmission fluid is what is used in the all the gears? I have a 2008 cx9 FWD.

@@6speeddakotathanks I have a fwd so the only thing I need to do is just change the fluid in my transmission

I would connect the lines with the coupler fully out. If it's fully compressed, you run the risk of sucking air back up through the lines and it'll be a pain to bleed out all that aerated fluid. Once you connect the lines, crack the bleeder screws and let it gravity bleed for a couple minutes making sure it doesn't run low at the master. You should be good to go after that.

Thank you for your fast reply. That’s how I did it. Have a great one!!

The aluminum washer goes on the drain plug. Just make sure you remove the old one first

It's a 3/8" square drive. No bit at all, just the square end of a ratchet or breaker bar

lol, that just made my day

Some ford motorcraft fluid the dealership gave me for the trans, regular dex3 for the power steering

The cat code isn't anything to do with that. Typically it's an issue with the purge valve, but in this case, if that's already been replaced, it could be an issue with the fuel tank pressure sensor not reading correctly. Unfortunately I can't really say unless I can look at it directly

@@6speeddakota i already changed the fuel tank pressure sensor since i just changed the fuel pump assembly which has the pressure sensor on it

I haven't heard too much about them myself. Typically when they're not stellar, they'll be very well documented online. So far it hasn't given me a lick of trouble whatsoever.

@@6speeddakota that's what I was thinking I mean mine shifts smooth as butter but I was just wondering about them.

I believe it was called partzilla.com or something to that avail. It was a Yamaha parts overstock website

I misspoke, you are correct, the vent opens during purge to flush the canister with fresh air

​@@6speeddakotaWhen refueling the vapors in the fuel tank need to go somewhere. The only way vapors can flow into the canister is if the vent valve is open. Also when the car is just sitting, new vapor from fuel in the tank needs to flow into the canister, which again requires the vent valve to be open. This means that the vent valve is always open except for the short duration when the PCM/ECU needs to do a vacuum test of the EVAP system. The vent releases air to the atmosphere when refueling or when new vapor is formed in the tank. It sucks air from atmosphere when purge is operating. When vapor saturated air flows over the charcoal, the charcoal absorbs the vapor, and only air comes out from the vent. When air from vent flows over the charcoal, because the air is unsaturated, it picks up the vapor which is then burnt in the engine. If the car is not driven for long periods of time, it is possible that the charcoal will get saturated from tank vapors. Timely and enough purging is therefore needed for the system to prevent vapor escaping to atmosphere.

There are 4 rubber seals. 2 o rings that go into the water tube, one that goes into the counterbore on the gear case that seals the oil passage between the upper and lower case halves. The last seal is the one that sits on top of the water pump housing, that one comes with a special plastic tool in the kit to install it.