Hi do you know if there is a noise when the crank is moved backwards and forwards a tiny bit - It’s not a rattle, more a slight sound as you go from freewheeling to engaging the motor. If you ride along freewheeling then very slightly peddle to engage the motor, there is a slight clunk as it engages.

Some people say to remove the pads and push back and lock the pistons would this not help?

For anyone trying this, I've just set up an MJ 906S and it seems if you try and crank it to max brightness, the bike will detect too much draw and will error code. To fix, you need to reset the light to a lower setting using an another supply, i didn't wait to see if the light loses memory over time. So if you haven't bought your light yet, you might as well stick to 2000 lumens with the Bosch. And now what I'm thinking of doing is running a 2nd 2000 lumen on the front, using the rear supply. So a 2 light setup. Anyone tried this?

I go faster than 20 miles per hour on a regular mtb, to say nothing of a road bike. The speed limits are ridiculous. That being said the speed box allows you to set a speed limit within the constraints of your gear ratio. Which shouldn't cause any more damage than peddling past the stock limiter. You can't go any faster than your gears will allow unless you're bombing downhill or on a class three bike anyway. So instead of dragging a boat anchor to the trails where you will step down into E-mtb mode or lower anyway, you can just get there. Personally, I noticed I was having knee strain pedaling above the limiter at the cadence and gear input I'm comfortable with when riding to the trailhead. Which is faster than 19.5 mph. It's the only time the tuner is going to get used. Off-road on the trails it's totally useless. It might be helpful on a fire road back up to the start of a short run but you have to remember that the max assist is 85nm so if it's extra steep it's not going to turn your bicycle into a motorcycle anyway. It's entirely unnecessary if you're not riding 10 miles out to the trails, riding the trails, then riding back to the house, somewhere that has limited bike lanes on the street, then it's probably not for you. There was a long stretch of gentle grade highway I used to ride on my way home from work on a regular hard tail steel 29nr that I regularly hit over 40mph just keeping a normal cadence in my top gear. If you're not a rider who's used to going that fast on a bicycle in the first place then a tuner chip isn't going to make that unsafe, the rider is. I finally got mine in the mail after a painful buying and shipping experience where I had to re-order it from a third-party vendor. And it didn't keep me from enjoying the ebike any less not having it. If it doesn't solve the one issue I want it to, which is the additional knee strain over the limiter, it's coming back off. It's called a tuner for a reason. You're supposed to tune it to your riding, not just slap on a massive chain ring and set it to plaid like a Tesla giving people another reason to hate emtbs. Also bear in mind that the faster you go the less contact patch you have on paved roads. Big knobby tires are meant to be dug into soft ground, so you're asking for trouble doing 40mph+ on a paved road with a DH tire. Hell, even a fire road. Watch some old downhill videos on some hard pack and see how quick those tires cease to be useful. These mid drive motors have been engineered to purpose, and that purpose was to provide an assist within the performance constraints of the bicycle. Do not exceed the performance limits of the bike or the rider and you should be fine. If you want an enduro-cross motorcycle you can get one for less than the cost of an ebike, literally half the cost usually. With the Bosche motor the assist modes get updated to improve the application of the assist, adjust the overrun, reduce battery consumption, etc. and improve its climbing ability. If you try and hack the speed limiter, which is probably how this customers sensor wire got damaged, you're going to ruin the performance because it's no longer receiving accurate information from the sensor. So if you do want to de-restrict, purchase a chip. There are a few different ones, some have a limited speed which is higher than stock but not 99mph, but none of them interfere with the performance characteristics of your motor. It's the law of diminishing returns.

Thank you for your content! You help me understand things better. There is not much information about the Bosch Connect Module, and I would like to figure it out. I would be grateful for your response. My question is: On the Bosch website, it was mentioned that the ConnectModule works with cellular communication. I didn't quite understand, if my bike is several kilometers away from me, will I not be able to see it on the map in my Flow app? Does this module require a SIM card?

Hi guys has anyone ever seen error 011?(no longer showing on screen) but the screen is on , the battery is on, it just won’t turn on the modes. Cheers guys

Ingenious yet simple and elegant. Like the choice of drivebelt over traditional chain, gearset and derailleur too. 👍🏻

Non e-bikes, especially carbon race bikes can reach speeds of 30/40mph, and most non e-bikes reach speeds of 20 mph easily 20 mph should be the legal speed limit for e-bikes

nice commuter bike

Brilliant video which gave me the confidence to do the bearings myself. Bit of a cost to get all the tools but as my wife rides a rail as well as two of mates it made sense. keep up the good work :-)

I’m convinced this just saved me from disassociating from reality

Looks good 👍

Thank you so much for making this video and teach me how to do it quickly, I have been trying to get my tyre in like 30 minute thank you so much saving my time

If I have a speedbox, can the engine block or only if I update via the application on my phone?

If I have a speedbox, can the engine block or only if I update via the application on my phone?

Brilliant video, thank you ! I wish I'd watched this half an hour ago before all the sweating and swearing changing my tyre...at least next time will be easier :)

motores Shimano lubrificantes

What's name of machine

I did this much quicker. I took my grinder and kut the pedal straight off. Then I whisked off the 15mm stub with my 900nm impact. Quite easy. Just ignore the two hours of black magic I had just performed trying to get the sob off. Sometimes brute force is the only appropriate reaction.

Hi. Really helpful and informative video. Just wondering what's the name of the tool used at 24mins to remove and install the swing link bearings? and any suggestions where best to buy? Cheers

just started looking at getting an electric bike. Find it strange that you cant ride this up hills and kind of defeats the point of having the electrics.l

I enjoy your videos they very clear when u explain how to fix things 👍

My friend ordered one of them levinsky fat ebikes and if I’m honest it was dreadful, the bafang motor was nice but forks and things were dreadful, I prefer to buy whyte ebikes as everything is quality and I know many can not afford them but I wonder how long the Chinese imports last as welds are not the best, the sad part is every UK review of that fat bike got there’s free to review and only one so far admitted the forks were dreadful with no adjustment at all, they 2k as well which imo your better off with a used high end bike at similar price with serviceable forks ect.

my GOD, Works like magic thank you very much.

That's so stupid... So unecessary! It should be a 10 minutes job. Now we have to disconnect the cables, cut the brake cable, bleed the brakes and fight all these in place 🤦

Same case on my e-bike. Worst possible scenario 🫣🫨 + My has obvious internal ratchet teardown after 5000-6000km. Cranks just go round and round 😅

I replaced the BMS, but I don't know what the third wire at the output is between plus and minus. The bike does not want to work without it. Can somebody help me?

A real life saver! A splash or two of isopropyl, then standing with one foot on a Park Tool PW-3 on the tire bead on one side, and one foot on the other side of the rim for leverage, and voila: problem solved! Thank you.

I haver never seen or heard of these before. Was the chopper it's replacement or was this a cheaper version of the chopper?

I have installed the mt5's on my wife bice I never had issues with bleeding them, people also have issue with sram brakes but me thinks it's about not putting pressure in the lever and sucking the last remaining bubbles, this process must be repeated until there's no bubbles. Not a few, not one. No bubbles ... 30 yrs of motorcycle care teached me to read the friggin manuals 😂

On the bearings where there's 2 bearings and a spacer. How do you get the bolts off? There seems to be a safety screw but none of my hex keys fit

- Extensively shows how to extract the easy to access bearings. - Doesn't show any footage of the hard to access ones in the rear. - Disappointed.

Thank you.. this tire was kicking my butt. After watching your video, I had the tire back on in less than 30 seconds.

Good god man, you're playing with fire leaving the pads and rotor in place.

I had my MT7s bled with old pads in. I wore the pads in the rear down to the base metal so bought new ones. Couldn't get the f'ing things in because the pistons wouldn't go back far enough to get them in place without one of the other pistons popping out again. I ended up opening the bled port a bit then pushing the pistons in to dump out the excess fluid. Long story short: if your pads are close to shot when you need to bleed replace the pads at the same time. 😅

Man, this helped me IMMENSELY today working on my 2017 5010. Thank you!

I what way is this easier then the usual Magura method with a drilled syringe?

I don't know why, but bleeding my rear MT5 after I cut them wasn't a nightmare as people suggest it would be, it was fairly smooth without any seperate tutorial, just the Magura bleed kit and instructions 😅

This mans single handely saved me hundreds at a bike shop

Nice job! Also i love your marinemaster!

This is the opposite of the magura tech videos really Never had a bad bleed following the manufacturer method

Dave, SUPREME thanks for your efforts doing this, as well as the install on the trek rail5 from 3 years ago. Your work is priceless. My rear shimXT had a shattered piston, so I went wandering for a full brake replacement. Found the MT7 on sale and fell for it, like shopping while hungry. I'm so glad you did this video; the timing is perfect. Also perfect is the entire youtube universe of pain and suffering I'm finding about maguras just as I'm about to install mine. I suppose I'll wait until the levers break (no pun intended), then perhaps I'll try a Shigura setup.

Why not close the system at the brake handle first then the caliper? I did mine this way and rotated the bike but did not feel the need to remove the caliper as it couldnt drip from a closed system.

Would be great if owner could buy product, set up account, and then only pay to track device AFTER that is needed. Recurring fees in perpetuity make me want to 🤮. I purchase things so that I own THEM, not so they can own me. P.S. We give insurance companies MORE money than they give us back. That's how insurance works. That's how they are able to stay in business. Insurance is nothing more than a way to buy something once, and then proceed to slowly pay for it twice, in hopes that they MIGHT give you a portion of your 2nd purchase price back. Insurance is nothing more than gambling. If you want to gamble, go to Las Vegas and get free drinks out of it.

All this cold weather is obviously because of global warming and racism .

How do you do it uncleaned dirt inside yet this red silicone scooters I wouldn't give you to fix hah😂

Brilliant as ever Dave. I always look forward to your videos. Cheers. Colin.

Can you do one on tec4s? Your videos are amazing 👌🏻

1. All maguras I owned (2x julie, 1x mt4, 8xmt5) were leaking when attaching the syringe to the bleed port. I always lift the caliper above the lever when doing that. It takes 10 secs to rotate the bike when having a stand. And I don't add air to the system. 2. For every bleeding on any bike is recommended to remove the wheel and the pads - there are 2 nice bleed blocks from magura. 3. The best thing to do is attach a funnel with a threaded inlet to the lever. Ez emtb offers kits that are the best bleed solutions on the market. 4. The method I use (100% successful) is to remove the lever from the bar and rotate it while pushing the oil from the caliper. 5. The lever is the pain in magura case. Shiguras are very easy to bleed with 100% success rate. 6. Plastic-phantastic lever body doesn't belong to mtb product range in this type of applications. Their 1st attempt was julie that was a piece of junk. I had 2 issues with them and it was the only one situation when this happened in my entire brake history. 7. I buy mt5 brakes , easy to find in EU for 65 £ Incl freight and customs, and shimano levers (20-50£ per piece, depends on the model), sell brand new levers for 30-40 £ and run shiguras for 75£ with saint levers and they are easy to bleed, maintain and pain-free to use.

Brilliant practical video Real world experience Thank you