Yes that works. Make sure it is not sharp or catching on anything.

Thanks so much! It's an honor to have a chance to make gear. Thanks for the kind words and using our gear. - Dan

Thanks!

Thanks. Glad the tent is working well and this video was helpful. Nice to hear you were able to hike the JMT. - Dan

We have filmed an X-Dome 1+ video. It will be released on October 8 as part of the launch. - Dan

@@durstongear Thank you for the response Dan!

Assuming you are pitching the tent well (e.g. getting everything tight) then the benefit of staking the doors is that you define the vestibules (hold that flap in place) and make it easier to operate the zippers, so the door stakes are not required but a nice convenience. Normally the weather isn't too stormy, so those would be the next ones I add. They do help to support/stabilize the peaks too, so there is some benefit there, but if the conditions are quite stormy then the biggest benefit is the peak guylines. So peak guylines for support and/or door ones for convenience. After that, it is just more stakes for supporting/strengthening the tent. The side panel guyouts should be next. Then the extra ones around the bottom hem. Hope that helps, Dan

@@durstongear Awesome, Dan! I like that you've clarified that in stormy condition, peak guylines improves support more than other locations. Assuming that I've pitched the tent well, and connected peak guylines in stormy conditions, (6 stakes so far) if I were to add just 2 more stakes, ignoring convenience and only focus on stability, which ones you would connect next? door stakes or side panel guyouts?

@@junhoryutube For stability, next would be the peak guylines.

@@durstongear ah, sorry to confuse you. I was trying to ask which location is next “after” peak guylines, for stability.

@@junhoryutube Ahh...for wind stability the side panel guylines are next. Where the extra stakes around the base shine is for snow loading. The snow slides down the fly and wants to accumulate on the edges of the tent. Having that more staked out reduces deflection from the snow pushing in.

We will have a strap version on our next batch in a few months.

I'm filming the video tomorrow for our new X-Dome tent. I'll hardly be able to sleep tonight :)

@@durstongearI have a feeling those tents are gonna be super cool again. I’m imagining an X mid that’s self standing and a lot more storm worthy than they already are but doesn’t weigh much more if any. I’m also imagining the new tent being used as trekking pole tents. Heck, what if it’s just a trekking pole to freestanding conversion kit of the x mid tents? That would be crazy.

Thanks for the interest. Normally your pole's metal tips go straight into the grommets inside the peaks (no rubber tips/boots). There are adapters to pitch handles up too, but it is lighter to provide a reinforced area with a grommet for the pole tip. - Dan

Thanks Filip!

Glad you are liking it :) -Dan

That's what I'm waiting for. Even a green model would be better.

Glad you're loving the tent and sorry about this issue. A bit thicker cord will hold better. If you send us an email we can arrange some for you. - Dan

@@durstongear amazing support, thank you

Got mine last week and had exactly the same issue… thought i was doing something wrong. When its tensioned it pings and slips through the line lock @durstongear

@@lukec9585 It might just be a slight batch issue on the cord, email Durston support, they’re really helpful 👍

Thanks :) - Dan

Most of the warmth comes from your sleeping bag and bag (not the tent). The regular version can work in the winter but the Solid version is cozier.

I just got back from a trip that got down to around 30f. Definitely a cold tent due to the way the rain fly sits really high, great in summer though. I dont have the solid, but that would definitely solve the issue as well as getting a better sleeping bag. mine is trash.

@@xiqy1959 The gap below the fly is adjustable and shouldn't sit "really high". If you set the corner cords to be quite long and/or don't tighten up the base before adding the poles, then the poles will extend taller and create a large gap. The ideal way to pitch it is with shorter cords and snugging up the base before you add the poles. Like this, you can have the fly almost flush to the ground if you want.

A goal with our tents is to remove a lot of the complexity that most trekking pole tents have, so it is just 4 stakes in a rectangle and then extended your two poles.

Thanks for trying our gear. The tent will be reliably waterproof. However in some conditions there can be condensation because that is more affected by the environment than the tent. So we can't guarantee you won't get condensation, but the tent is a doublewall to keep you separated from it, and has vents and other features to minimize it. - Dan

@@durstongear just got back. yup, easily the best tent ive ever used. It rained once on my trip in wy, but the tent stayed perfectly dry. I think its due to the fact you made the rain cover so big around the middle; regardless, awesome design. When this one breaks ill probably buy the dynema one.

The 40L got the updates a week or two ago. Right now it is the UltraGrid fabric. We'll have the Ultra 200X in a few months, but the UltraGrid does have the updates now (e.g. larger front pocket, drain holes, more attachments).

I know the 40L was sold to another company for sale some time ago. Is this still the case? Do I need to order from another website to get the updated 40L? Also, is there a release date for the ultra 200X version?

About 3 months.

@@durstongear Awesome, looking forward to it! Thanks, Dan!

On the Pro models the interior wall connects to the fly at the peak, which creates a natural pocket for the handle. So the simplest/lightest way to do it is to pitch handles up in that pocket. The double wall tents don't have the natural pocket, so tips up in a grommet is simpler/lighter there.

@@durstongear gotcha thanks!

Thanks! Mine's a 2012 Alpacka Yukon Yak.

You're further into the range for medium, so I'd go with that, but I would double check your measurement first, and also consider your height. If you're much below 5'8" then small is more common.

@@durstongear thank you Dan, I’m about to 5’8” (173cm), should I measure in a straight line or with the natural curve?

@@TheRealShinto A curve is the best, but also stand up straight so there is not too much curve. \

@@durstongear thank you so much, you’re the best, you’re always somewhere on the internet in the comments haha, and also when to expect the iceline trekking poles to come back in stock, because I wann order from Europe and ordering the pack and the poles together would be ideal

@@TheRealShinto It's still 3-4 months for the poles. We're working hard on it but it takes some time.

Nailed it.

@@durstongear lol I did. A. my pack is coming in the mail as we speak. good reviews and excellent material choice.

About 125 cm. We say 122 cm but that is a bit lower pitch (which I prefer). If you're doing fixed length, I would do about 125 cm and then angle them if they're a bit too long.

Moi aussi...ordered it 2 days ago. Jacques Cartier National Park will be its first test.

Thanks for using our gear, and good luck with your new outdoors journey. So much fun! - Dan

Thanks for trying our gear. I hope it works well :) - Dan

@@durstongear happy to report it has been working very well, we went camping twice since I got it. Slight learning curve compared to my Marmot, but the weight and interior space are huge benefits!

That would be great. It's hard to be ready to film when the weather strikes, but yes it would be more realistic and helpful to watch. I do aspire to go out in some rough conditions and film some various videos on pitching and performance.

@@durstongear Could be pretty viral, you yelling at the camera over howling winds wearing a head lamp in the sleet and snow!

Thanks! Yeah some nice updates on this batch of packs. Always working to improve :) Thanks for your long time support. - Dan

@@durstongear Ok, actually now that I have loaded the pack up and have been wearing it around the house, I do have a slight bit of feedback… I’m going to try my best to articulate this lol Even though the hip belt pockets are larger, the hip belt has trouble curving around my hips when they are full and it causes uneven pressure on my hips. The pockets really aren’t as big as they look because the middle of the pocket kinda collapses into itself when the hip belt bends. Items that don’t conform to the body easily will end up forcing the hip belt straight, instead of letting it curve around the body. My Kakwa 40 was similar, but it might make it seem more dramatic to me now, since they are bigger. I can still fit more than the Kakwa 40 I was using and I don’t usually load the pockets full anyway, so it really is a non issue for me, but I was pumped when I first saw the updated pockets and thought I might be able to ditch my fanny pack with how big they looked. It seemed to work until I put the pack on, then they just ended up being way too tight unfortunately. I thought it would really help to maybe expand the front and back sides of the pockets outward and have the ultra fabric between the zipper and the padded part of the hip belt, taper in the middle, so that it allows the hip belt to naturally curve around the hips without distorting the zipper or shape of the pocket as much, if that makes sense. Lol Maybe even keep the outer part of the pocket flat, so battery banks and phones wont distort the pocket at all when tightened around the body. So basically make them similar to a skateboard halfpipe on its side and instead of a perfect box shape, make it so the natural shape of the inside of the pocket is concave and curves with the hip belt more. I don’t know. I’m not sure if anyone else is having the same issue or if it is just my body type or what (I’m very thin), but I just know you like feedback and thought that would work well and possibly be a relatively easy update for future iterations. All that said, I am still so stoked for this pack/upgrades and even though the new pockets weren’t as perfect as I thought, they are still better than the old, so I have no real complaints, just constructive criticism! I can’t wait to get it on the trail! Thanks again, Dan! Cheers! - Steve

@@ManivanAdventures Thanks for the feedback Steve. Shaping the pockets around a curve is tricky partly because it's complicated to construct and partly because everyone's hips have a different curve. The new pockets have more depth to them than the old ones, so they can better keep space around a curving hip, but certainly they do still lose space. I don't have an easy fix for this, but I think these new pockets are quite good while still being able to operate one handed (most even larger pockets get harder to operate) but also I will continue to tinker and likely continue to improve over the coming years. - Dan

@@durstongear Totally understandable and I definitely agree that the pockets are quite good! Honestly just nitpicking at this point, but I thought it was a good idea worth mentioning, since the pockets are concave on my REI Flash 55 pack and I can stuff those completely full of snacks without affecting the hip belt at all. It has a more rigid belt, but still. Good point about the zippers though. I struggle a bit more with the Flash 55 zippers one handed, but the pockets do fit on the pack more loosely. I’m sure my thin frame exaggerates it more, but I feel like everyone is going to have at least some curve there, so if you can figure it out, it might be beneficial to add some concavity, even if just a little bit, to help create a bit more usable space. Just some thoughts! Looking forward to what comes next! I’ve gotta pick me up some of those new poles at some point! 🤙🏼

Glad you're liking the tent. The cord could be misrouted. Is this all the tensioners? Or some? If you send us an email to [email protected] we can send out some of our Ironwire premium cord that is a bit thicker and holds better.

@@durstongear @durstongear I put it up 3 times today and 2ce the corner come out so I just readjusted it, but it is giving me a bit of anxiety as I'm i'm now starting to think to myself is it going pull out or not when I put that 2nd pole in. I am going to mark up the corner when it does it again then re pitch it and see if it is the same corner doing it. I purchased some ironwire when I bought the tent for the side guy lines is this the cord you are talking about?? Thanks

@@baldywildcamper I would first make sure the cord is not routed backwards. That is most likely the problem. Compare it to the other corners. If the cord is installed correctly and still slips, the Ironwire will be an improvement because it is thicker. So yes you could put some of that here.

Straight out along the ridge is fine, but its a little better to angle it towards the door side a bit because the peak is less supported from that side. So anywhere from directly out along the ridge to the corner of the fly is good.

Certainly you do need trekking poles for a trekking pole tent. We don't include these with the tent because many people already own them and/or prefer a specific model. We don't want to force people to buy a certain pole to get the tent. Are you seeing somewhere where we suggest the poles are included? I don't think we do that, but if we do unintentionally imply that let me know and we can update it. Regarding the weight, there are a many ways of looking at this. For someone already using hiking poles, then those are already present so the tent adds just the weight of the tent. Other people might bring folding poles to use instead of trekking poles. Other people would only start using trekking poles to use the tent so then the switch does add the weight of the tent and poles. Trekking poles vary widely in weight and there are so many different scenarios that we couldn't possible provide an accurate weight that includes everyones poles. Instead, we provide an itemized list of the various tent parts and what they weigh and then people can add things up as they wish. We do provide the weight of the stakes in our specs and provide a 'typical setup' weight that includes those. That does not include the trekking poles because most people have already listed that weight as their trekking poles and it wouldn't be accurate to list them twice. For the total weight, our lightest tent is 440g and then with stakes and stuff sacks is about 500g (or 800g if you want to include your trekking poles). Our heaviest model would be about 600g more. So it is a wide spectrum and we provide all of this info in the specs and people can add up it for their use case.

@@durstongear Always suspected something was wrong in my world. I grew up, studied, did various sports, got a career but never obtained trekking poles.

Thanks Thomas! - Dan

I like to keep the original cords and then use a 'girth hitch' to add on extensions when needed. That way I'm not packing up longer cords that tangle every time. I do like Skurka's system. I use that for the sides and peaks sometimes, although the tensioners are handy too. Then at the corners I only add extensions when needed.

We have the 'Solid' version that is more intended for UK/Europe and it is a darker green color. There are also adapters if you want to pitch handles up.

Awesome! I gotta get to Glacier Lake.

Yeah they are packed separate to start. You would set up the fly like shown in the video, and then the inner tent gets laid out on the diagonal between the two poles and then clips into place. For the groundsheet, the key thing is that you put the logo side up. Like that, it'll be the same shape as the floor.