can we just throw the filter in the bin, the whole thing is being silly waste of time anyway

Won’t a high power pressure washer will do the same thing after soaking process?

Just ad the ' Secret' into description and get an extra '0' on view count. p.s. I'm the one of those who watch your videos even without this trick

Thank you

Thank you for the awesome content you publish!! I have an AESWave UScope and like it. But it has its limitations: single channel and very limited ability to save files and analyze them afterwards. So I am looking at upgrading to a PicoScope. I am wondering if the 2205A model would run into the same performance challenges the 2204A ran into in this video of the cam and crank sensors? The 2205A vs the 2204A: 25 MHz vs 10 MHz of bandwidth 200 MS/s vs 100 MS/s maximum sampling rate 16 kS vs 8 kS memory buffer I do realize the 2205 is almost double the price of the 2204. But I believe both scopes are incredible values. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks again!

I gotta steal some from my mom's

Does the car have to be completely asleep for these measurements?

Whoa. That's really great.

I’m going to buy one now. Anything that makes electrical diag easier is worth it especially something like this it’s tedious to unravel a harness and like he said it’s easy to damage the wires and that is such a head ache when that happens.

Good Video and great infornation. Thanks! What is the most current Pico software version that will work with the 2204a. I am hearing conflicting opinions regarding Pico version 6 and 7. Some say the 2204a will not work with then newest version of Pico 6 or 7. Can you clarify and make recommendations?

Emanual just supplied a badly scanned copy of a Haynes manual - I already had a a physical copy. Took ages to get my money back by contacting my card provider. Scammers...

Darren, do I get a new 2204A or would a used good 4227 be of any benefit? (under £200) Better specs but still not automotive. Its an older model now. Thanks Gordon

Think CAN high can be found at the EOBD socket

Hi there when using the pico signal generator is there any reason you cant connect ch 1 to sig gen sockets with a coax lead with bnc plug on each end...

M43B18

i so wished I had come accross this channel years ago... you are a great teacher and I can't thank you enough. It obviously earned likes and subscribed... I am an old school mechanic before the days of ECU's and mechanics have to be much more than a grease monkey these days.. something I was not trained for....

Its the aether background maybe

It's good thanks 👍👍👍

14.7 with car off. Egolf

Thanks for the vid....but 3or4 weeks ago MM multimeter was 55'or#

Brilliant video!! I wonder where I might be able to find a good wave form for an M57 engine

Absolutely well explained.

The first tip to learn diagnostics and repairing cars is "Are you intressted" i always ask friends if they like doing mechanical work etc they always say yes but then i always find problems with them complaining. Give it a hard thought.

Do you have a link to the coil on plug adapter? I would like to buy one. Its shown at 9:09 of the video.

Good job ,exlent. My question, will Picoscope 2405A run on pico7 automotive software, what is the price of scope and software?? Thanks

The diesel injector leak off test is great. I have an issue with low rail pressure. It takes 10 seconds of cranking to build pressure then starts. The injectors won't actuate until the ecm sees enough rail pressure this makes a leak off impossible. Any ideas how to diagnose a car like this ?. Great video and very well explained. Thanks

It’s still reading higher mbar than bmw limits. Also are you ignoring the lumpy idle? If it has ever snapped a timing chain then those cam lobes have twisted on the cams

PICO 2204A T HAS 2 CHANNELS ON PICO 7 IT SHOWS 4 CHANNELS HOW DO YOU DO THIS?

But thats not all Thats 50% of the checking

All this effort when you can literally just bash the shite out the thing and stick it back in with a remap. So much easier.

My approach is slightly different. What follows is my basic procedure: 1) Measure battery terminal voltage. What you are looking for is if the battery voltage is very low like 10 VDC, which could indicate a damaged cell. If so it is prudent to first get a new battery on order and take the old one out and see if it will accept a full charge which will probably take 8 hours. If it fails to charge, the battery is damaged, if it does charge you can test capacity with a battery internal impedance meter at the battery terminals. If the battery is older than about 2 years, for a parasitic draw problem vehicle, the battery will must likely not be recoverable. However, there is a very small chance it will recover. While you are waiting for the new battery, you can put in a similar of smaller size battery, could to have a flooded and an AGM on hand, to allow you to start your testing if the problem is not related to starting the vehicle and only needs key on engine off. If you have to start the vehicle to reproduce the problem then you will need the full sized battery. 2) Battery terminal voltage okay, no damaged cell and the battery is not completely discharge. Put a battery sustainer on the vehicle and prep the vehicle for parasitic draw testing (doors latched etc.) so the vehicle will go to sleep and you can still access all of the fuse panels (if one is in the trunk also latch the trunk). 3) But an amp clamp meter on one of the battery cables (at this point in the testing the current clamp meter is just faster and I don't have to touch the vehicle as delivered and I am not looking for a high resolution current reading), I use a B&K 316 which has a resolution of 10mA. All you are looking for with the B&K is if you have a large parasitic draw and about how much and is it dynamic. You can monitor the meter as the car goes to sleep to see any changes. Monitor the meter periodically and wait until the vehicle goes to sleep without a draw or it never goes asleep proper and wait about 30 minutes. If it has a high draw after 45 minutes then watch the meter to see if the current is constant or is changes periodically (dynamic). 4) Current is constant but high. This means you have a constant draw which could be a bulb or some other constant "dumb" load. You generally move on to looking at fuses and dash with a thermal camera to see where the load is generating heat. Many times this is an aftermarket thingamabob who is misbehaving. 5) Current is dynamic and high. This means you have a dynamic draw which is not a simple "dumb" load, it is complex system behavior which usually means there is a module periodically waking up, which intern wakes up a bus, which then wakes up other modules connected to this bus, and after the active module sees no bus activity it will then go asleep again, and once again wake up for no apparent reason, and this pattern repeats, and what you get is a periodically dynamic parasitic draw current waveform. This is where I remove the B&K 316 and put on my Pico current clamp so I can see the exact dynamic behavior of the current with my Pico Scope. As you can see I have yet to disconnect the battery after the sustainer is connected. I want the sustainer to put a slight charge on the battery while I am diagnosing the vehicle. Here again at this point in the testing I don't need a huge amount of current resolution so the Pico current clamp will work just fine. By analyzing the waveform you can start to understand what system would match the behavior. From here to fine tune your troubleshooting strategy to see where you would want to look first. The Pico Scope waveform is needed proof of the problem to the customer. It is proof of applying diagnostics. If you just write down that you have done some diagnostic test without proof the customer may not agree with your conclusions, and the customer may have no idea about what the test means, but are not happy that the test costs money to perform. Which is a bit strange because diagnostic time is usually the highest hourly rate if broken out separately and overhead included. The industry is to blame for not educating the customers on the need to diagnose (diagnostic time estimate) before providing a repair estimate. Which is also a bit strange because how can you provide a repair estimate if you do not know what is wrong? Perhaps you make more money by just shot-gunning perfectly good parts which is in my opinion is unethical. If you replace enough parts and the customer pays, do you really need to treat the customer any different? Why diagnose? if you make more money just changed good parts, regardless if this fixes the problem. 6) Identify the problem to a particular circuit, this is easily found with a thermal camera if you have an idea where to look, which is one of the reasons we recorded the current waveform with the Pico scope. 7) If you need to narrow down a common fuse power feed between several modules (they are all powered by the same fuse, which is very common) you can then use the B&K 316 to look at each module power feed wire current after the splice to narrow the draw down to one module. 8) Inform the customer of the testing results (which includes all the documented data like scope captures, thermal camera captures, etc.) and issue a repair estimate. If the customer accepts the estimate then you can repair the vehicle. It is not uncommon for the customer to decline repairs if you have narrowed down the problem to a module, unless it will need to be reprogrammed, learned or matched. Before releasing the vehicle obviously the customer must pay the bill. 9) Repair approved. Replace the failed part or remove the thingamabob, reprogram a module/learn if necessary, and retest. Here I use the Pico current clamp and scope on the same settings at the diagnostic report and verify proper operation. 10) Parasitic draw resolved, take final sleep current measurement. This is the point in the testing where I introduce my DMM to measure accurately the normal operation sleep current using the methods in the video as to not wake up the vehicle while I introduce the current meter. This is the final measurement to include with the invoice. With the B&K or the Pico I know the current is below 50 mA or below so I am confident the vehicle is going to sleep, I just need to measure the final value. As you can see from the above sequence that I don't disconnect the battery unless I have to replace it. Normally the battery will be spanked and you want to start charging it as soon as possible. However, don't use a charger, use a sustainer to set the voltage to produce a charge current of about 1/20 C to 1/10 C rate (e.g. for 80Ah battery use 8 Amps), so the testing voltage is stable, regulated and low noise. This way after working on the car the battery is charged enough to release the vehicle to the customer once the bill is paid.

i remember getting a dollar store butane solder iron. it was pretty bad and sus

Thanks so much for this, looking at automotive scopes and they are way out of my price point.. had hear the 2000 series was ok, but nice to see it wil do what I need it to for a lot less money. Cheers...

I am done with Honda cars. They have gone beyond reliable to cheap shit. Even my shift knob broke and can not be glued back together.

What about the EGR and Intake ….

Excellent as well for banana art into the bargain!

hi where can I find a fault on my BMW 120i convertable roof top alarm sounds constantly do I need a logistics test or a auto electrician thanks Trev in sunny cape Town south africa

Wish I would've read these comments before I ordered my manual from Emanual Online. Ordered a manual for a 2015-2019 Chevy Colorado (mine is 2017). The manual doesn't even have the correct motor and transmission for my truck. My truck has and LGZ 3.6 engine with and 8L45 transmission. The manual only has the LFW 3.6 with the 6L50 transmission. I don't think the LFW and 6L50 even came in these trucks after 2017. How can I trust any of the information in this manual. Feel like I've been defrauded.

Great have it is one hundred sixty euro programming keys in Ireland

Can you please put this short into a format that will upload to my car's OBD2 port?

Depends on whether on the car or not, and what system the car uses...best way to test is off the car after an overnight charge.

Does this can get real time ATF temperature data? Thank you.

check on ctek 25s

Which one would you recommend for beginner osciscope? Just learning

Do you have to subscribe or pay annual fees to get it running?

Am I missing a tooth lol

This is my stuff I feel it. I'm not an auto guy but I'm a computer engineer and I know this stuff. I'm at home !

Solid work D. Appreciate you

Temperature compensation chart?... those voltages change at different temperatures.

Wonderful