Just depends on it's specific geometry. Without knowing more details it's hard to say.

Not currently, but Knoxville about 3 hours from my house. I do travel and help teams at all levels. If interested can message me on my Facebook page facebook.com/dirtlatemodeltechtips

Glad it helped, be sure to check out all my playlists and videos. And if you want even more information you can get my full set up information and how to do it in a written guide that 64 pages long. It breaks down everything and I I have developed a sweet spot range that cars work in. If you in that realm you pretty decent just needing to tune to track and your needs. If you want more information direct message me on Facebook @ Dirt Late Model Tech Tips for more information.

He was good. Little shook but good. They tried to get him back out. That was a heat race if I remember right.

No. The "bubble" as you called it is a pocket of swirling air caused by spoiler being too steep. Never exceed 70° spoiler angle, as this is best starting point. I have been slightly higher but very very rarely I go over that 70° angle. Steeper then 70-73° you risk the pocket forming kinda like a tailgate on a pickup truck does. You want to ramp the air up the pocket makes air roll off spoiler.

Driveshaft rotational direction.

You are right, not considered by most to do anything but it does have an effect usually over looked. And to be honest I really didn't consider it Factor to brought to my attention even though it's crossed my mind but being so narrow and low torque due to its size. But regardless there's still a force being applied.

There is 500+ lbs of engine torque being applied to the rear end gear as the rear end converts driveshaft rotation to axle shaft rotation. Drag strip racers run the left rear heavier to accommodate this effect. Circle track racers mistakenly assume that it is only to counter dynamic weight bias from turning left. I thoroughly enjoy your videos and thank you for this conversation. Keep up the great videos please!

@curt9i Now lets consider what happens to the effort at the lift arm when we change gear reduction. It changes. This will result in dynamic elevation change at all 4 corners of the car as the torque at the moment is changed.

Yes there is huge mechanical traction to be harnessed from 4-link system. Just have to tune aggression you want in car.

Well there good information, basic I say and needs to be common knowledge. However more information is available.

I'm going to do video about this issue.

Awesome man, more where that came from.

So are you lowering load or bar angle on RR?

So changing bar angles on RR does effect ride height if the radius on chassis brackets doesn't follow the bar radius. Regardless, it's minimal if it does. I primarily focus of the LF, RF, and RR ride heights. The LR is the variable in height as that will change with changing extended load.

Now there are a lot of key factors missing. Like where is bump located, spring packaging, etc ... Along with how much bump you are using.

@DirtTrackDave load rate on right front is 600lb 175 14in. spring 3 1/2 in. of travel to the bump stop

The car lacks traction form center off till exit

Is RF soft? I don't like the soft RF trend DLM racing has currently. But please message me here for further discussion. [email protected]

@@DirtTrackDave yes it is soft

Only useful for a crutch in my findings. RR lower below 3* at static means in dynamic you go below 0 and likely around -2 up to -4* . This means the bars go from one thrust direction to zero and then a negative thrust direction. This results in forces countering each other instead of working together. I found the 4-link rear end set up works best and more efficient if a bars forces all pushing same direction. Both LR and RR. However in tuning these things we are not taking grip away necessarily but changing it from one side of the rear end to the other. When tracks are heavy you want more right rear drive, more RR angle especially in the right rear upper bar. However this is the opposite when it's slick. I do decrease my angles on the RR but I never go below zero not lower because it creates an imbalance and the timing and how they're working together LR vs RR that is. But when it's slick I decrease that angle to allow it to work much slower and not get on the bars as quick. This makes the LR drive longer before the RR comes in resulting in more straight line traction exit to just on straight away.

If you would email me @ [email protected]

2:48 Sunday June 4

Center link starting 13-18°

Well I have found a the relationship between real world and sim adjustments is not the same. The accuracy in sim DLM racing is way off. Similar but off.

That is static bar angles at ride height or as would be in scales with driver. 3 for RR lower is still to low I have found. That's more my dynamic angle I try to stay around for semi heavy conditions say 3/8 mile tracks.

Thanks for the info man

@@DaveyAkersMotorsports yes sir if you need more insight my written information is loaded with real usable numbers situations and email straight to you, check out these guides. Adjustment guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/9974U9XA5MTYS Set up guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/4J87KMZC9D5PU Tire guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/W6GF2X6VSBNFN

Message me on Facebook at www.Facebook.com/dirtlatemodeltechtips

Jay the z-link and swing arm have their uses and benefits. They still run in specific dirt motor sports and asphalt. However the swing arm is inferior to the 4 link geometry. The 4 link uses 100% of forward thrust to drive that side of rear. Where swing arm does not it's less then 50% since one bar is inverted. For old school this was on as cars were not as efficient with 4 link as they are now days. So swing arm take a little drive out yet cut down roll steer as well with it's up and down motion. Where as 4 link is down and forward.

no, very few are 100% confidence in adjustments they make.

I'm been racing with numerous customers around the country on and off majority of the year. However, I have gathered 700-900GB if videos to produce new content.

@@DirtTrackDave glad to hear you’re okay!

It was a very scary crash, one of a few I was like OMG. We were all glad to see he was ok, car not so much.

For LR chain I use minimum of 1500 pound chain.

Please email me with some more information on your needs @ [email protected]

Well that is getting pretty technical, and thats the stuff I break down in adjustment guide. Here are links to those guides. PayPal links to purchase guides Set up guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/4J87KMZC9D5PU Adjustment guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/9974U9XA5MTYS Tire guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/W6GF2X6VSBNFN

I'm still around

How do i get ahold of you.

@@randyreynolds3743 message me on my Facebook page facebook.com/dirtlatemodeltechtips

It should be available as its open source

Glad they are helping Doug. I have a variety of customers competing in different forms of motorsport like land speed cars, saloon cars, and sprint rally stuff. For road racing two key things compared to DLM geometry,. One: longer and way flatter (less angle) bars for less movement. Two: Liftbar set up less aggressive, don't need all the hike or anti-squat that we require. Always glad to expand potential gains from working with other car types. Feel free to contact me about more 4 link information.

What part or parts you FEEL is out dated? Because it's still winning races.