I have a bearing remover and installer for fwd cars im planning on using that unless the threads are too big.

thanks for that tip. i JUST saved the fee of paying some BUSY guy to schedule using his press. youtube is much better then getting advice from local yocals for the cost of WHATEVER! most people are full of it! sometimes you take 4-5 decades to get to the facts of most things. you youngsters are lucky in this century. a click or two and bingo, sift the crap from the gold! common sense will guide you. as a reminder to those who don't know[MY first time], don't tighten the control arm inside frame pivot bolts down until you put the full body weight on that side. leave the wheel off, jack the car control arm up until it just lifts up off the stand, then adjust your camber if you have one on the pivot bolts and torque away. my bushing lasted 6months because i didn't. you WON'T be the exception! also, make sure your alignment shop doesn't have a deushbag doing it or leaving certain nuts and bolts finger tight. my NEW strut rod bushings failed because of it. hell of a clanging cracking noise on 90's tbirds and cougars. i thought i had a broken frame. it always better to do it yourself. better chance of getting it right, that i've found, in over 50 years of cars, trucks, cycles. even lawn mowers! one moron high performance!! shop bent 3 of 8 new motorcycle valves for me and my NEW valve guides were looser then the 70K mile over revved by friends [Aholes!] valve guides. the shop used their HI PER bronze instead of my 8 NEW factory guides! DIY! ALWAYS if you can. i pity the rest, that THEN sell or trade their dangerous junk in , to victimize some underpaid plebe. i've heard most of the lies from sellers [sociopaths!]. lets keep them in Washedup D.C. where they have comradery with their kind!

Great video! I have everything from S&W including rear frame, 4 link,tubs, narrowed housing, 12pt cage and more. Now all I need is time and more money! Great job you’re doing!

These S&W kits are nice but the rear end housings they sell for the kit id 6 inches to short they said it was for the street guys so they didnt have to stretch the wheel wells, I found out way to late after buying axles so I got to buy axles twice and had my rear end lengthened 3 inches on each side

Did you buy a kit for the a body?

DON'T beat on a ATI Super Damper !!! Get the tool !!!

Hey my name is James I am doing a 5/7 engine Man I really need your help on twerking down the heads and the rocker

Music is louder than your voice.

what is the difference if you spin the tire one complete turn or you spin the tire ten complete turns.

This guy looks like my local storage owner

Air Chisel

luffy!!!

So, what's the verdict? Do you have an update on the handling and steering? We never heard how well they worked.

95% of this video is talking with the camera facing the guy vs the work being done. Would be more valuable for me to have camera facing and showing the technique (without the view being constantly blocked by the guys arms or whatever. Nonetheless, value added

Nice & simple, thanks guys

The HF instuctions say when using the two smallest adaptors, to use the "largest 1/2" adaptor as your height guide. I was hoping that would be addressed here, but to no avail.

Where do they find these balloon heads

Dude I could Not find a video to save my life I found one in Spanish and it wasn’t as easy as yours Definitely a sub and like Ty

Nice upgrades

Well done. Thanks for sharing this awesome video. 👍👍

Excellent

Excellent

Good video..closer view on ..things would be better...stamp on head gaskets showing ..front.n.back..view on intake gaskets..and how to ..form a gasket..correctly....

This won't work for my car. Boiling point of water at my altitude is higher than the temperature rating on my thermostat.

A couple minutes .never did one on a 3.5 nissan murano

Nice video & details.

Everything you're doing is correct. But all you have to do on an open diff is spin it once and multiply the yoke spins by 2. Never heard of the 10 times way. Ford only has so many rations in 8 and 9 inch so you'll be in the ballpark ratio wise. My Mustang was taching at freeway speeds, jacked it up, locked the other wheel, turned wheel once while watching the yoke, yoke went around twice. Times that by 2 = 4.11

I like your style. Keep up the good work. You have saved many grown men who were in a jam with these motors. Knowledge is power.🤓

Great info but I'm a little bit confused about where your rotor was pointing after you rotated the engine to get the distro to seat. It looks like it was pointing away from cyl #1.

What’s with the guy standing around in the background and what’s with the odd cutaway shots to the person talking on camera? Also the viewer can see your video. Much better when you don’t stand in front of the camera blocking the view of the part you’re working on. Professional video crews make the money they do for a reason!

👍

Just bought a 69 Mustang coupe. I love your videos. Do you have any others? It seemed like you stopped halfway through the project. Or am I missing something? Thanks again for the great vids and doing what you do. Cheers.

Coolant flows from the engine to the radiator through the thermostat, nor from the radiator to the engine.

Just a tip tho, it can still appear to open and it be the problem, if the wax/guts is bad, worn springs or seals is bad it’ll cause issues but to the naked eye it’ll look like it’s opening and closing normally

Do you test if it's really open up at 82c? I'm concerned as my new thermostat don't start to open at the exact temperature, would it be interfere the engine cooling? As my radiator and condenser fan will try to maintain the engine temp at 85c while ac on

No one cares.

Use an impact. Work with your brains not your brawn young man.

Once you “Chuck up” the line in your flaring tool & are ready to flare, clamp the bar in a vise, or, put a vise grip on each side of the line/tool to increase the clamping of the line. Doing it that way, those cheapo tools can even do stainless, usually.

Great video Pal… I did this method and it work fine but I took the thermostat out and rinse with water and put it back it in the boiling water, the thermostat didn’t open at all…. I believe my thermostat is not functioning properly

I want to know what make , model and year car you say takes a couple minutes to pull a thermostat. I guess if you don’t count the 20 min drain time ( after the half hour finding the drain) removing air box and snorkel, maybe a bracket or two (10 min more) then use your articulating tools arms and wrists to locate the 2or3 bolts holding the housing on ( variable time here if the engine is cooled off or not) to test the thermostat!? Throw it out after all that ……… oh I see this video was posted pre KZbin in the late 70’s

That's not a bubble tool.

Awesome video, thank you

Awesome 👌

just borrow one form the local auto aprts place, wtf

Do you have to take apart the entire drum brake when removing the spindle or can you just remove the 4 bolts on the back? I’m reusing my drum for now

Any idea how big of a socket?

Mine passed this test but still was no good. I don’t understand

great amigo, thanks for the instructions

Peace and Love Thank you kindly for displaying your expertise and skill. This is a much needed skill/method for a diy'er like myself. Stay dirty and efficient...

Hey Nick, do you still monitor this channel? I have a question timing check cover question…?