@evannewby If you are in the Edmonton area, you would be correct! Yeah, I took it down this morning as life was "lifing me" recently lol and decided to keep it home a little while longer. May revisit selling it next year. Love it. But it's hard on the body for cross country runs..so I am considering a touring bike. Good catch!

@POPPASHANGO I don't blame you! I'm currently riding a stryker, beautiful bikes. I saw yours for sale and put mine up for sale in an attempt to buy yours! Hit me up next year if you decide to sell again.. if I haven't found another one close to yours you may already have a buyer!

@evannewby Hey I will certainly let you know!

@evannewby Styker is a nice bike too! That is the bike I was looking at and surprisingly didn't know too much about the Raider. But when I went to shop to scope out a Stryker my Raider was sitting next to it and the salesman and my wife convinced me on the Raider. Honestly, the biggest bike I had before that was a 650 Intruder. So I was so both the Stryker and the Raider was a huge jump. But they are both designed so well they handle amazingly. What color is your Stryker, by the way?

@POPPASHANGO it's the bright red colour scheme. I agree, the handling is amazing! Such a comfortable position as well. It's great having the low center of gravity!

@@NathanMaharaj Glad it helped!

@alexsilva5756 You're welcome I hope it helped!

@0Stella Thank You! The guy who bought it just came to look at it. He asked if he could take it for a spin and was gone for while. I started getting a little worried but he came around the corner eventually. He said, "My wife is going to kill me" and handed me the money. Lol.

@@POPPASHANGO ha!! Amazing

@@billhansen1139 Glad I can help

@@helenvanpatt2724 You are very welcome

The kit I used was the Scosche TA2076B 2007 Toyota FJ ISO/Double Din with Pocket Kit. I checked on Amazon and it says it's no longer available. So I went to Crutchfield where I purchased it and saw the Metra 95-8202 Dash Kit. That kit would work for a single unit that fits in a double din slot. ZBut if you are trying to install two units like I did, I don't think it would work because it doesn't have the sides which I modified to hold both units. I did a few searches but it seems like you would have to modify a universal unfortunately.

I did think of that when I designed the system. But I found that the pressure and volume of water being forced outside was far greater than the back flow into the tank. Far more water was expelled. The evidence of that is that once the float had dropped far enough to turn the pump off, the back flow was not enough water to trip the float again. You can hear the pump has stopped and how long it takes to bring the water to level with the inner piping. Fortunately, I found the sweet spot with my measurement below the ground level outside. Going higher would risk another plug. Going lower would put even more water back into the tank and trigger the pump to cycle at a greater rate. It was literally 1 part spark of an idea, 1 part 1 part experimental, and 1 part desperation. Lol. Thanks for your thoughts.

I think in your case that is probably true. You have a long length of standing pipe... maybe 20-30 feet? Back-of-the-napkin math for a ½" bleeder *inside* a 1.5" outflow pipe (which reduces the effective outflow diameter to 1.4142") indicates you pump ~12.5% more water than necessary during the pump cycle. Assuming a 5gal sump -- or more specifically, 5 gals between float top to float bottom -- this works out to the volume of water in ~92" of 1.5" pipe (1.4142" effective). It also makes your pump cycle ~89% efficient. By comparison, if you had to pump all 20-30 feet of standing water each cycle, that's 1.8 to 2.7 gals extra, or 36.5 to 54% excess water, and pump efficiency drops to 73.25% or 64.5%, respectively. It's important for others to note the efficiency gain (compared to removing the check valve) is a function of outflow pipe diameter, bleeder diameter, sump capacity (float on to float off), and outflow pipe length that retains water. As an example, for your pipe dimensions and assumed sump capacity of 5 gal, then an outflow pipe with 92" of standing water is break-even: less than 92" (7' 8") there's no benefit. Increase the sump capacity to 10 gal, and the outflow pipe break-even length increases to 184" (15' 4") . Reducing the bleeder hose to ¼" changes these break even points dramatically, and brings your pump cycle back to 97% efficient: excess water: ~2.8% break even at 3gal (my current setup): 12.25" 5gal: 20.5" 10gal: 41" Just to complete the comparison, a 3/16" bleeder... excess water: ~1.6% pump efficiency: 98.4% break even at 3g: 7" 5g: 11.75" 10g: 23.5" And of course, if the standing outflow water equals the sump size, removing the check valve is a no-go, and you have to add some kind of bleeder: 3g: ~32.5 feet 5g: ~54.5 feet 10g: ~109 feet (These lengths are for a 1.5" pipe with no bleeder hose reducing the capacity) Of course all these numbers change depending on the outflow pipe diameter, but 1.5" seems like the largest pipe residential sump pumps are likely to use.

You are very welcome!

Glad it helped. Cheers on getting a Raider!

Thank you. We no longer live there. But we never had another incident in 5 winters. I am pretty solid in believing it works.

I'm glad helped. If I can ask which sensors did you use? I purchased some from Amazon but they are not working right. Thinking I have to get oem, but they are so expensive.

Hey no worries! I purchased the bags and quick disconnect kit from Vikingbags.com and the bat Memhis Shades batwing came from Fortnine in Canada.

You are welcome! I tried the inexpensive ones from Amazon but had no luck. There is a way the check which involves being somewhere very quiet and putting the car in reverse, shutting it off and leaving the power on. Supposedly you should be able to hear some sort of clicking sound from them. Alternatively, you can test them. In general, to test parking sensors with a multimeter: Set the multimeter into electrical resistance mode, then remove the sensor from the car. Locate the three-contact parking sensor (plus, signal, minus). The resistance of a functional sensor between “plus” and “minus” will exceed 0.5 megohms. On the other hand, there should be a 2 - 40 kOhm between the “minus” or “positive” and the signal contact. If the value on either test dramatically changes, the parking sensor is damaged and must be replaced.

I've gone 6 hours ok on it...just a little saddle sore...I have considered an Ultimate Seat for longer rides....but have pulled the trigger yet. At one point I was just going to give it up for a Transcontinental....I just love my Raider too much....so the seat it is...and I am working on modifying a quick release Harley tour pack on the Raider too.

In my case the water level needed to be below the soil level. I suppose I could have done that...but I would have had to tear out finished walls to do so. My solution was driven by not having to tear out a wall. Thanks for your input.

I don't think the Troy Bilt exist anymore, but at some point the design resurfaced under the MDT umbrella under Earthwise Brand. Search Earthwise 515-18 18-Inch Quiet Cut Push Reel Lawn Mower

I do...love it. Thought I might pull the trigger on a Star Venture Transcontinental....but I won't give it up the Raider to have it.

Good Day! We sold the house last October, but I NEVER had an issue since I set this up. So I consider this a success. Sure there will always be naysayers but proof is in the pudding and I never had another frozen plug. Interesting side note: when we sold the house the inspector looked at the setup and mentioned it looked different. I "explained" it prevented frozen plugs at the outlet outside and he said "great!" and never mentioned it again. The horizontal pipe with a slant is a great idea. It did not occur to me at the time. 👍

Strangely enough. They do not have a hazzard switch.

Good Day! The quick release kit is part #55004 and the bags are the Yamaha Raider Odin Large bags. There is no part number for them you have to drill down to them after choosing by bike, in my case the Raider . They are still holding up since posting this review! Thanks for the props!

I don't think believe so. Looking out on the internet I see now mention of anyone having to relocate the turn signals to install a saddlebag for any year Raider.

I stand corrected. If you go with those big gloss Harely style baggers you will have to do something with the turn signals. But when searching for bags for the Raider. The two videos I saw with them had removed the turn signals but one guy said he did not use the mounts from Viking and made his own. I suspect he didn't use the Viking mounts because Viking doesn't display those bags as an option for a Raider.