Interesting thought. Maybe if I had more time to do building. But I hardly have time to build the drones I want to build for myself.

Just checkled out the Ummagawd 1605 motors. I've not had any experience with them but the Ummagawd Aerolite range have a good reputation. I would have thought that 1605 would be a bit overpowered for a 3.5 inch. I wonder what sort of flight time you are getting with this motor with freestyle flying.

Thanks for sharing this info on 3.6 inch. For sure 2800 to 3100 is the best choice for either 3.5 or 3.6 inch on 6S.

Thanks, yes these may be good for long range. I'd be interested to hear how they perform.

Thanks, making this backpack has actually gotten me out flying more. Just grab it and go. I really don't like paying big bucks for something when you can just make one yourself.

Yes its an interesting problem. The gap is needed to get the foot under. Of course you could press the props all the way down and then before you remove them just open up a bit of a gap by pulling the prop - just enough to get the foot under. Appart from that I don't know of any other solution.

@@cubefpv exactly that is what im going for 😀 I really like your video s. Just began with multi rotor fpv. Thanks for sharing

Interesting. The obvious suggesttion is to cherck your peops are on the right way - not upside down. Also in BF check on the receiver tab, Does your throttle seem to be reversed.

@@cubefpv props are on correctly. Clarity's not reversed. The drone will hover but if I bring that puppy up over 10% throttle on the stick it skyrockets without recovery. I have to disarm it and let it fall out of the sky

Everyone says gyro vibrations, but it's a brand new board on a brand new frame with brand new gummies and there's no wires vibrating against it. Brand new motors. Sorting of props all have same outcome. Depending the brands and pitch doesn't matter will hover just fine, but any acceleration on the throttle at all? Skyrocket

@@taylormayhew369 That's exactly what I was thinking. But if you have checkec your stack and wires then that can't be the problem. I did have a similar problem a long time ago and the cause was actually a cracked frame. there was a small crack in one of the arms and that caused lots of vibration when throttle was applied. Try turning the fram over and gently flex the arms and look for any cracks in the carbon.

Please forgive me 🙏

@@cubefpv nothing to forgive it’s a common mistake it’s to do with how many rpm the motor will produce per volt

Thanks - Trying to do something interesting and new with the production.

The TPU boots on the arms serve 2 purposes - mainly to protect the arm ends from delamination in a crash into concrete and as pads for landing. I'm not doing bando bashing with this one so I chose not to use those and instead put the bolt seats underneath to land on. I like to hard mount so the only thing soft mounted in the stack is the FC. Hard mounting also gives more room vertically in the stack. Used an "Andoer L4 Dolly" for the moving shots. Thanks for your support mate.

Yes thats right - you're flying very high in the throttle. I must admit I just tried this as an experiment to see if it was possible. So yes possible and a lot of fun - but maybe not practical.

Thanks - I also refered to it too when remapping on BF4.3. Easier than remembering.

Thanks for letting me know. I've added the purchase link now in the description. Sorry i don't have any print files for this peoduct. I am the reseller not the manufacturer.

Yes it's amazing and scarry at the same time how good AI is getting. Songs are just the start.

This tool is for the DJI FPV system. It doesn't work with a DJI camera drone.

@@MicronWings oh! Not even for the DJI Fpv drone ?

Thanks for your comments. I'll try using a lower setting on my next battery build. Also sorry for my pretty bad performance - I'm always trying to make my videos better.

Sorry I didn't get the meaning of your comment. But if you were referring to why I used a soft serial, I needed 1 more UART than what the Tinyhawk board had available.

Thanks for your input - a good point there - the mount can indeed also be a cause of jello. In my case even in faster flight I am not getting jello, so I think in this case the cause was the props.

No you need to use a reg poswered from Vbatt. These LEDs pull more amps than the 3.3volt rail can usually supply. 3.3 volt rail is intended for low current draw things such as GPS and Rx.

One of the best 3.5 inch frames is actually the one i am showing here - the GEP RC 3.5 inch. It's an older frame and great for analog. It's also suited for 19mm cameras which I like. I like this frame because its a short frame and you can stack components and keep the mass central. I fly HD but with analog the all up weight should be even less. I would go with an AIO board - any 35 amp AIO is fine. I've been using AIO in 3.5 inch for a long time with no problems. I use Xing 1504 3100KV motors even though others reccomend more powerful motors. These motors are good and the power and resoution in the throttle of these smaller motors is good for freestyle. Larger motors of course are more powerful but that doesn't help with fine resolution in the throttle that is needed for freestyle. I use an 850mah 4S cell with 3520 3 blade props and he a good 4 and a half minute flight time. Take a look at this resource on my website to see what motor, battery and prop combos are good for 3.5 inch freestyle - cubefpv.com/motor-sizes-3-5-inch-freestyle/

Also, I can't seem to find that exact spot welder, would you mind sharing a link for it too?

My soldering iron is a Pine brand pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/ but others like the TS101 are more popular these days www.getfpv.com/miniware-ts101-digital-oled-smart-soldering-iron.html I can't find the Ebay listing for the welder i bought but this one is similar. www.ebay.com.au/itm/285048979466?itmmeta=01HQVF0N7KWRV93E0VX8S8EQHK&hash=item425e3e400a:g:WFgAAOSw~6phnwL5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwK%2BnJOgfdwPXUiSZlekKL1Qmg5TfpZQfuiOql%2FWNWe17wvS9pQXaRUu40VSXGbZ5UdZw4rgEqHileayfAQAW%2FvolGuzqJb%2FG3woZck9OBsQT6eLTVZIeSu6%2Bjut2RWVZlIy89SinzOLhbcIjMHw6dOh9DxUMzkWrJWeauJBvTsjNzJDWelroLAaKddMBIcBSAHKLjhmLxHsc5MHwPPG6DvhE2zbtvJZkmFgvKXqKnmmMKPK6wVKpboMWg4ohpYPU3A%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-7Tgu--Yw @@aaronmastropaolo4674

Good point - I forgot to mention in the video that you need to use sandpaper to buff up the terminals before soldering and use flux.

For soldering you need a very powerful iron to get the heat in in a short time, so you don't stress the cell to much with overheating

Yes the larger iron tip will make all the difference - it's so much easier.

Thanks - Yes I saw his video and thought No that's not how you do it. 🤣

The FC and Motors are both okay with 2S voltage so no real mods necessary.

@@cubefpv so just find a way to connect li ion batteries and it will fly?

It will fly but it's very heavy. All you can do is hover and fly slowly. You can do it but I don't recommend it.@@swimbeyonder

Sorry I'm not selling these any more. You can download the cad file here if you want to cut your own - cubefpv.com/tinyhawk2-feeestyle-flight-controller-adapter-mount/

My Goto frame fro 3.5 inch these days is the GEPRC Smart35. cubefpv.com/home/resources/scratchbuildguide/ cubefpv.com/product/fpv-frame-geprc-gep-st35-smart-35-3-5-inch-freestyle/ It's been around for ages but it's still the best. Oh also HappyModel has brought out a V2 Crux35 and that frame has been improved without the weakness of the V1 frame. I think they removed those holes at the base of the arm. Currently you can only get that frame as a bind n fly (with HD Zero) but they will probably start selling the frame kits soon too.

@@cubefpv Thanks Bro, by the way the New Crux35 V2 frame is just as weak and breaks! I’ll check out your go to frame an see what that looks like, 🙏

not sure - i don't have any experience with making chrome extensions.

Sorry that woudl be a lot of work - Basically rewriting the script because the air unit and DJI camera drones srt files are very different. In the world of FPV people have moved on to other tools to extract this data so i'm not doing any more work on the file.

I'm not sure what is happening there. Actually i have not used this ESC software for over a year. These days everyone is using Bluejay instead.

Oh thanks - no one else said anything. I've got them on the way now - sheould be a few more weeks.