The circuit I am using in this video is only designed to interrupt the current going to the ignition coil so that the coil fires - similar to a set of contacts opening and closing such as was used on the original Merc-O-Tronic testers. The circuit is being interrupted about 125 times per second. I do not think the circuit I used here would be suitable for a 4 stroke engine as is because the timer operates independent of any trigger such as would be found on a 4 stroke engine - points opening and closing or a magnetic trigger if the original ignition was electronically triggered.

@@29chevbolenschannel40 It may not be complete but it gives me a basis to work from for triggering the coil to get a spark. The control of when I can work on. Thank you.

@@bryanwhitton1784 You might also be able to adapt a CDI circuit to work for you such as is shown on this website - www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-make-capacitive-discharge/

Thanks for the kind words. The discs are labelled similar to what was offered with the original gear sets these are patterned off of.

Thanks for the kind words. The discs are labelled similar to what was offered with the original gear sets these are patterned off of.

Thanks for the kind words.

This is one of the videos I posted about a year ago that shows how the gears were cut - kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqfGYahsi6aheJY

@@29chevbolenschannel40 Thanks

Not sure what you mean by the path. There are two wires that connect the charge coils and connect to two terminals on the regulator rectifier.

Interesting that a new Honda engine with the higher capacity charging system would be more money than purchasing the components separately. The GX390 I purchased about 2015 came with an 18 amp charging system and I think it was only about $75.00 more than what the 3 amp system would have cost. I have never seen the higher amperage charge coils (10 and 18 amp) for sale other than those made by Honda. The 3 amp charge coil unit that came with the first GX390 appeared to be the same size physically as far as the metal framework. It might be possible to rewind two of them using heavier gauge wire to create higher output coils if one knew for sure how they were wound (clockwise or counterclockwise) and what gauge of wire to use. You might keep an eye out for an older GX390 from an old pressure washer as some of those units had the higher output charging systems if they used a hot water system - just a suggestion.

No - the PTO is mechanically engaged. The charging system just has to maintain the battery with the lights on and I added a linear actuator to move the top section of the snow caster chute that draws about 2 amps when it is moving in and out.

@@29chevbolenschannel40 👍🏻👍🏻👋👋🎄🎄🇨🇦🚜

I do not know if it would work on a Kohler K series - it might if the stator output was a maximum of about 15 amps. Probably be easier to just replace the regulator with the proper one I would think as there are probably only 3 wires to connect on it. Have a great weekend as well - it will be hard to hibernate with the temperatures above freezing for the most part so far this winter.

@@29chevbolenschannel40 ya strange weather. 10C to 12C for a few days here next week.

I doubt it as I am not sure the human eye could detect the full needle movement as it would happen quickly. Given the results I am getting with the gears I am creating using the version 2 cutting attachment I am not concerned with it.

The milling attachment used on the 6" lathe is smaller than that used on the 10" or 12" lathe. You could try Tool And Cutter in London Ontario if you cannot locate anyone closer that is selling the involute cutters required as that is where I purchased the 21 to 24 tooth cutter that I was lacking. You might also find a set on Ali Express but you will probably get what you pay for quality wise. It is also possible to make your own cutters if you only need to cut one or two gears as there are books on gear cutting that show how. to do this If you have the lathe but do not have a milling attachment or any cutters it may be less expensive just to purchase the missing gears - either used or new. The gears show up on ebay from time to time used and there are individuals who are making the gears new out of plastic using a 3D printer - not sure how well they would stand up. Most of the gears (and other parts) can also be purchased new from Clausing Service Center as they are still in business and and offer the majority of parts for sale for the Atlas metal lathes - they are located in the state of Michigan in the U.S.A. The 6" lathe I have was made by Atlas and is just labelled Craftsman as it was sold by Simpson Sears - my dad purchased it new back about 1962. You can find a parts list and owners manual for the lathes on the Vintageequipment.org website if you need any of these. If you wish to see more information about the gear sets I hope to make you can go to this thread on the Garden Tractor Talk website - www.gardentractortalk.com/threads/gear-teeth-counting-upgrade-for-change-gears-on-my-metal-lathe.93319/#nested_reply_top_post

@@29chevbolenschannel40 Thank you very much for taking the time and thought to type out such a long and comprehensive answer. Much appreciated. I'll be reading more on the garden tractor site. thanks for posting there as well.

Thanks - the version 2 gear cutting attachment, the extended arbor that the cutter mounts on and the power feed all work together to make creating a new gear a bit easier and get a much nicer finished product in the process - live and learn. As you say a lot of work but the end result is well worth it in my opinion. I am hoping I can now move on to create the gears I need for the four gear sets I am trying to make for my lathe. Two of the gear sets are for threading and two are for turning to make set up of the change gears required easier since the lathe does not have a quick change gear box. I did have most of the gears already created using the original gear cutting attachment but the results were not as nice as I had hoped so most of the previously cut gears got turned down to create new smaller size gear blanks.

I am just using 3/8" thick steel flat bar to create the blanks. It should be lots durable as the original gears were pressed out of a material called Zamac which is made from a mixture of zinc, magnesium, aluminum and copper. Some people are actually making them out of plastic using a 3D printer but I think the steel will be better for me.

The gear sets will be used instead of the regular change gears for doing threading and also the carriage feeds while turning on the metal lathe -for my purposes I am thinking that four gear sets will be needed - two for threading to cover a range from 8 TPI to 32 TPI and two for different carriage feed speeds. The advantage of the gear sets is that it saves time and makes it less of a challenge to get the correct set up so that the correct number of threads is produced during threading or the correct speed for the carriage movement is obtained during turning. To set up for threads, as an example, with the original gears the correct screw gear must be selected and placed in the correct position (back or front) on the lead screw. Then the correct two gears must be selected to make up the correct duplex set of gears (to obtain the correct ratio) and these must then be meshed with the gear on the lead screw so the correct clearance is achieved. Then an idler gear must usually be selected and meshed with the duplex gear set for the correct clearance and finally the bracket that the gears are mounted on is then swung up to mesh with the drive gear on the lathe. With the gear sets the correct gear that needs to be mounted on the lead screw must still be selected but this gear always is mounted in the front position. Then the gear set is meshed with the gear on the lead screw and then the bracket is swung up to mesh with the drive gear on the lathe. With the idler gear and the duplex gear set up as a gear set the mesh between these gears is already set as well as the correct ratio for the duplex gear - this saves in time as it results in one less set of gears that have to have the mesh set correctly and the correct duplex gear ratio is already established and mounted with each gear set. Hope this makes sense.

Not sure what you are trying to say with your comment. The lathe was made in North America and is not metric - the dials are graduated in thousandths of inches. The swing in metric measurements would be approximately 15.27 cm and the distance between centers would be approximately 45.8 cm.