Restomod all the way👍

It looks brilliant! What. stem and bar combo have you used? I have my '84 Peugeot PH11 (that I've owned since new👍) set up as a free hub single speed, and I need to replace the stock bars with something solidly wider. With everything being "French" sizing (dia.` of bars, seatpost, etc), there is no simple bar swap. Keep doing what you do 👍!

1400 ain’t bad if that includes labor.

man what a wild aero bar position lol is like a 70 degree upward angle

new parts on a classic frame. i like it.

I Have 5 Vintage Peugeots, I'm Sort of Doing the Same Carbon & Steel Build. 1.Peugeot Perthus Pro Reynolds 753r 2.Peugeot Professional 400 Reynolds 531 3.Peugeot Optimum 14 Reynolds 531 MK1 4.Peugeot Optimum 14 Reynolds 531 MK2 5.Peugeot PX10 French Reynolds 531 1981/1982 Vintage Road Bike for the Win 🤙🤙 Rim Brakes & DownTube Shifters are Staying on all the bikes. I also have a Vitus 979 Duralinox 1984 KAS Team Replica. I'm tempted to buy another Vitus 979 Duralinox in Purple and do another KAS Team Replica Bike.

4:28 Me literally yelling, "Nooo!" at least run some twine through there as you pull it out!

7:57 air conditioning for the basement is next level B)

Are they carbon wheels?

What HED wheelset is that? Those wheels look awesome!🤩

incredible parts ,but that handlebars doesnt match with this build ,u must swap it to compact

nice one bro! Do you know the weight by any chance?

GORGEOUS!

ok this is fire

Great job! I did the same in an old Peugeot city frame 1980. How dis you manage thé front dérailleur ? As with thé New crank bearing unit with external roulement m'y front dérailleur IS too short to go in the biggest crank concernant latérality ? Have you got an advice for that ??? Thanks a lot

Very Beutiful! Nice!

What was that move at 10:22? bending the frame to get more space for the new wheels?

nice build. did you go with quill stem adapter?

I did a bit of a restomod myself on a 1986 Specialized Allez SE frame. The original bike belonged to a friend who bought it new right after he had graduated from college. I am loving how nice it rides, so much so, that I sold my full carbon Masi.

Great job and a beautiful bike indeed! I would like a Peugeot too but it seems that only large frames show up here in Germany for some reason... 👍👍👍

Saved this video incase my issue persues, and replacing the clutch today and brakes should be here next week, hopefully fixing the slipping clutch on mine will eliminate the issue of it not wanting to go down gears easily all the time (maybe the clutch wasnt fully disengaged as it was worn) but if the issue persues ill be coming back to these videos as a deep dive into why 😂 thank you

nice video - easy to understand- thank you

Did this same job on a Freestyle. Solved the SES light, but it freaking leaked. Found the Motorcraft version on E-bay for $17

When I purchased my "fuel rail pressure sensor" this a.m. we had a laugh about how much of a mouthful it was to have to keep saying "fuel rail pressure sensor" for a single part name lmao

Now that the tire is closer To the chain way not going For 520 chain insted of 525 So it will not scrub the tire ?

Hey I have the same issue, my gen 1 Suzuki sv650 won’t shift into second gear unless I play with the shifter for bit then it’ll pop in second, seems to be fine with the rest. I took everything off and my star is spinning like yours through all the gears while I spin the shaft with my other hand. I just wanna know do I still need to take the engine apart? Someone told me I could still have something wrong internally or bent shift forks but I’m confused as to why the star would spin through all the gears if it was bent shift forks? or something internal causing it? Please let me know what you think I really don’t wanna take the engine apart. Everything else also seems fine that I took out to get to this point

Glad it helped! I think the next master cylinder I buy is going to be an Accossato 19x18. Each one is hand tuned to have as little free play as possible before they leave the factory. “Chasing Tenths” KZbin channel has a great video on them and what creates that free play before the pressure starts to build.

Thanks for sharing the videos. Greeting from Bavaria/Germany from an SV650S rider. 👋

First mistake was looking on the internet. Second was not doing the line bleed. Third was not bleeding the master first. Vac bleeders are only good for getting the fluid to move past the hydraulic block that happens when new lines or rebuilding removes all the fluid. Here is what works the absolute best. Fill the res, bleed ONLY the master at this point. You will need some clear line, a Gatorade bottle or the like. Drill one hole slightly smaller than the hose, make a small pick or punch hole in the plastic neck area of the bottle, fill the bottle with a small amount of brake fluid, insert line into cap and all the way down to just above the bottom of the bottle. Attach the line to the master port, squeeze the lever and open the nipple, continue pumping with the port open. Once the lever gets pressure close the port, remove the line and stick it on one of the calipers and do the same, then switch to the other side. After there is no air at all (or very small bubbles) pump the master up by stroking the lever, and crack the brake line bolts open. Do this until the system feels solid. ( old worn pads will also cause the bleeding to not work as it should) If after an hour, if the system still feels soft, tie the lever back with a zip tie or something and let it sit. Now, the calipers you are using are well known to stick. Rebuild the calipers. The 19/20 19/19 masters have always worked well as long as you have done the math and the calipers and all are matched. The way I described the bleed is an old, real old way of bleeding, it is still the best way. I only use vacuum when it is a rebuild or replacement of major parts.

also to help with the squeaking of the lever, take the lever off, put grease on the bolt and area, put the lever back on and it will feel a ton better

I'm guessing you swapped out your brake lines or had the lines off from the calipers at one point? if you you're supposed to have the brake hoses dangle while pumping the brakes until fluid begins dripping at the end of the brake line before you put it back on

I don’t think your problem is with the MC, I think it’s air behind the caliper pistons. When I had those calipers on my sv (05 gsxr600 calipers) the only thing that worked was pressing the pistons back in, then bleeding using the “open bleeder, pump, close bleeder, release lever” method. If not you’ll push air right back behind the pistons that can’t come out. Shoot me a message if ya need any help. I might be able to find the article I found maybe 3 years ago about the issue.

I’m in Austin too bro are you still here can I get you to help me with mine?

did the gsxr fork swap change the geometry of your bike?

Will the vstrom cables work with the s throttle housing

I would try pulling a vacuum through the top of the reservoir m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaevqIKhnZpoiZo&pp=ygURc2NvdXQgYnJha2UgYmxlZWQ%3D

Do you have the part number for the resistor used and did it work correctly

I've loved binging this bikes progression man. glad to see she's still coming together to this day! I recently picked up a 07 sv650. the previous guy used it primarily as a track bike so there's things I'm not understanding regarding the wiring that looking at diagrams isn't solving. Some things to note first: I have the same brembo kit! It doesn't have a pressure switch so the blue and red wires are free hanging; front turn signals have been deleted and I can't find leads to plug new ones into. A LED headlamp was added but has its power running straight from the battery and has wires I'm assuming are used as signal wires going directly into the rear fuse box Head-low/high 10amp fuses. My tach/speedo/turn signal/high beam lights are not receiving power, however the green neutral/red oil light turn on...? Popping open the plastic back of the speedo reveals three free hanging wires, a yellow, WHITE/black, white. Two random plastic 2 pin connectors, both with a BLACK/white wire, one with a black wire and the other with a cyan(very light blue?) wire. I assume these were taken apart from the white connector that should house those wires + a brown wire, but cant find the brown wire nor can I figure out what that white connector would have even plugged into in the first place. I'm wondering if that white connector that I'm missing is preventing the speedo lights to work properly. It like a real mess to me since I'm new to figuring out wiring harnesses lol, and I kind of set myself up for more of a project then I anticipated. You seem a lot more competent with wire knowledge then forum lurkers so I thought I'd drop a comment and ask if you have any advise on how to solve that speedo problem!

Good luck with bleeding those brakes. I had that model gsxr front end on my sv and they were a pain. My running theory is that air is prone to getting trapped behind the pistons.

hows the sv man? its been 2 xyears

Great video. It has helped an old woman out! New to the area and don't know anyone. I took mine to a 'recommended' mechanic who said it was the 02 sensor which he replaced. Charged me $150. About 100 miles later the engine light came back on. Took it back to the mechanic and he told me it was probably the catalytic converter, and he could just take it out and it would run fine. So, I took it to Autozone and another who told me it was the fuel pressure sensor. Took it to a different mechanic and they said it's the gas cap and fuel line sensor. They said cost would be $310+. Does the price sound reasonable?

I’m replacing my cracked fairing with one I’ve had painted and am now trying to reassemble the whole thing. Everything seemed to be going rather smoothly until I attempted to attach the bottom skirt which I’ve since found out is called the inner cowling cover according to the parts list. I think my main problem is I only have access to two hands as I can’t line up holes with holes and get the plastic on the outside that needs to be on the outside and keep the little tabs that hold it in place on the inside all at once. Couldn’t find any KZbin videos on the subject either.

thanks a bunch for the vid!

Do you have a list of all the parts you replaced?

I picked up an 09 for cheap because it won't go into or above 2nd. I have a parts bike that is an 02 (I also have a running 02) and am curious as to the compatability of all that hardware. Thanks for the run-through. I think I will tackle this. Or at least make a mess. Who knows.

You will find literature stating to NOT use any grease in O2 sensor connectors, as SOME newer sensors get their biasing air THROUGH the wiring! Crazy right?

What about insurance as mod to bike ,

hi, sorry, I would like to make the same modification as you to my motorbike. Can you tell me where to buy the bushing kit or if you have the dimensions of the bushings and if I have to file the rear brake caliper plate, let me know thanks

Just so everyone knows, before buying any used components on ebay, remember that they're being sold for two reasons. 1-they're stolen parts or 2-they come off a crashed unit. Either way all components, axles, rims, rotors fork tubes, steering stems, crowns and main frames and tail section/sub frames should be checked for straightness from professionals. Dr John's Motorcycle Frame Straightening are the only ones I've trusted for almost 40 years. Dial indicators will tell deflection more than your eyeball. They have the tooling specific to all differences in any components. They are located in Anaheim, Ca. Be smart, be safe! One issue not addressed in this video is the speedometer drive. In order to have a functional speedometer you can't use a front end off any GSXR later than 1995 as the later ones take the speed drive off the counter shaft sprocket. If you do use a later one you'll have to drive the speedometer off the rear wheel, there literally no space on the GSXR front end after 96. Driving off the rear is possible but takes professional machine work as the axle may need to be modified, the swing arm may need to be modified, certainly some degree of fabrication expertise is required. It is not just a bolt on situation. Think and plan it out before jumping in, because it could en up turning your bike into junk and unusable.

Thanks for the video! Did you ever figure out how to fix the rear brake dragging? I did the same gsxr rear wheel swap, and I'm having exactly the same problem.