Yes that would be great 👍🏻

If it’s spitting than something isn’t working correctly in the gun. Unfortunately new guns are $300+ if it’s newer than one year it’s under warranty and Graco with fix at zero cost.Hoping next year they will become even cheaper once the hype wears off. They should be under 1k in my opinion

Evergreen Fog is a wonderful color 👌🏻

Great question! my guess is yes as you always have a pocket of paint stored in between gun and tip. Which doesn’t allow the gun to regulate as that material is past the gun but I’m definitely going to give it a try 🤙🏻

Also thank you for the videos! You rule

Thanks for the feedback 💪 definitely appreciate your take as I’ve sprayed a half gallon through mine. I can see it working well for shop/ cabinet pump. And it seems maybe dangerous to use for exterior painting ide be scared to climb around on a roofline with the extra stuff around my waist. Thanks 🙏

That’s a great setup 👌🏻 it’s like a Quickshot XL

Agreed 👍🏻

Great review and very helpful,it's a pity it's of no use to you can you sell it on?or maybe keep it as a spare/back up

🥴

100% agree with you. A lot of people blasted me for not cleaning it. But the jobs pay for it and pay to fix it if things are quoted right. I actually burnt the motor up which cost around $289 to fix(probably from running it wide open cleaning it) and have sprayed another 100 gallons through it since, thanks for watching 🙏

Benjamin Moore does not have a waterbased cabinet primer that is as good as the Gen 2. Or any others on the “best water based primers I produced.

We are currently using the New Gallery Primer with Gallery Topcoat. If any tannins are present we use White Shellac to seal in (usually spot prime with a rattle can)

Agree 👍🏻

@ I might’ve been a little harsh in my comments, I suppose if a little old lady bought a gallon of it and did a vanity in a powder room it would probably be OK. But that product has not delivered for us in the capacity that it’s advertised.

If there’s no caulking you should have a piece of metal flashing behind each seam. Otherwise the moisture barrier is only moisture resistant and moisture will penetrate eventually leading to mold and dry rot

I tested every commercial mini roller I could find and the microfiber left the best finish. I mostly use waterbased products so thinning with water will definitely help flow but also sacrificing coverage

I think there is a way to convert it but I haven’t done it myself

Well…..The pump was burnt up. Impossible to clean if you can’t pump water through it.

Thanks 🥴

Always love a reference to a good brush 👌🏻

Great question Command is loaded with oil resins and oil takes longer to cure. If the color is white it with harden quicker maybe 7-14 days if the color is dark 21-30 days but all depends on temperature in the home . The more colorant loaded in can of paint and the colder the home the slower the cure time. 🤘😎🤘 thank you for watching!

@@mallerpaintingcompany I did a dark green which is Base4, so will likely take a while. Thanks for your reply!

Thank you for watching 🤘😎🤘

I usually use Gallery Serious which doesn’t need to be cut. However if I’m using a 2k poly I use a measured mixing cup put in 24oz of paint, 2.5oz of water then 2.5 oz of catalyst in that order and mix immediately. Most enamels can be mixed up to 10% with water but you will sacrifice coverage the more you dilute. I’ve found that most spray best with the #4 needle and tip unless your spraying stain or lacquer then #3. Great idea for a video maybe soon

The title says best exterior caulking for painters. My company focuses on re-paints. In order to run a profitable job i need to caulk a home and paint next day. This is impossible with a product like Vulcum as it takes 7-21 days to dry. If painted too early the caulk off gases through the paint while it cures and fades pre-maturely where the caulk was applied. The purpose of the video was to find out which products dried the fastest and which ones could with stand extreme tension. Not to show off how to properly caulk. If you want to make a better video send me a link I would love to watch it. Otherwise move along builder Bob 😃

@ so your excuse is you put profits above quality. I’m sure your customers would be interested. It is easy to make excuses for lousy work. The simple fact is you do shit work. You just admitted it. Again residential caulking life averages 5-7 years. Properly installed, correct sealants averages 20-30 years. Where are you not cheating your customers? Returning a week later instead of the next day has very little impact ( it dies have a small impact) if you know how to run a business. It happens all the time in construction. THAT IS FACT

@genecarden780 I get your point that the people who build skyscrapers having great training and fancy products, but that's not who this video is for. This is a video for guys who fix leaks in houses and paint them. It's not reasonable to expect these guys to have engineer support and buy thousands of caulk tubes at once from DOW. The data collected in this video is good: he notes that some can be painted faster than others, and he notes that some bubble, and he tests the adhesion strength of them. All the sealant companies will recommend you do an adhesion test similar to this before the project begins. The easiest way is just laying down a bead and trying to rip it off. If it detaches from the surface, then it's an adhesion failure. The test in this video goes an extra mile by measuring the weight load to failure. It's a great test. Keep up the good work everyone.

@ No you don’t get the point. For the most part painters use garbage sealants that don’t last. They sacrifice quality for profit. And while you are right about skyscrapers and buying in bulk, we use the same products on single story buildings,that just happen to be commercial too. And many of the products we use ( or very similar) are available to the consumer. Most of the products painters use ARE NOT SUITABLE in waterproofing situations. 99% are acrylic/latex or modified acrylic/ latex. Absolutely the lowest quality of sealant available. One of the most common ,and often most expensive, causes of damage to homes is water infiltration.Cheap polyurethane is orders of magnitude better than ANY sealant you can clean up with water. Again industrial/ commercial sealants last an average of 20-30 years residential 5-7 years. Some of that is due to knowledge,and a huge part of that knowledge is knowing that these sealants are garbage and won’t last even with perfect installation practices. Nothing in this test matters if it only lasts 7 years. Or less. By the way we often install sealants on very high end custom homes. Products like Vulkem 116, Sika 1A,LM15, NP1,( among others and all available to the consumer ) have a proven track record of lasting 20+ years. Painters only reasons for not using them are convenience,ignorance or profit. Never what is best for the homeowner. The difference in cost for the typical house is less than $50 ( for a very large house, probably closer to $20 for the average house) 7 years versus 20 years, extra$20 . Not a hard decision to make. Not to mention the millions of dollars in water damage every year in the USA And to your point of being about people who fix leaks, only a very ignorant person would use any of these products to fix a leak. It would be laughable if it didn’t cost homeowners thousands of dollars in damages because of ignorance spread by this type of video.If it is not marketed to the waterproofing industry it is because it is GARBAGE.

I am in this video just to keep edges off the paper. Lazy Susan is definitely the way to go

Thanks for watching 😊

Usually not but most of our pumps get used 3-5 days a week and if they are being put away for over a month we run pump armor into them. You can also run thinner or diesel into it to keep things from rusting / freezing over the winter months

Thanks for watching. I wouldn’t use command either however wanted to compare fastest drying product from main suppliers in our area. That sucks Gallery did not perform for you. I’ve only had success with it. Sounds like you were having humidity issues which I’ve had with other products. There is nothing worse! Envirolac is a wonderful product

Yes I did a long form comparison video here’s the link Best Cabinet Paint Command vs. Gallery kzbin.info/www/bejne/eoDLpph5orWAr5Y

Thanks Dad I’ll try that 😜

I’ll have to try 👍🏻

That would be best case scenario however kind of a risky fix as most of these homes the siding has been corner nailed and have micro cracked corners and the siding is brittle from being unpainted for too long. Short of replacing all the siding and doing it the correct way this is the best longest lasting option.

Check with your SW rep but I’m pretty sure they have a super deck product that will

I’ve tried Scuffx on cabinets it applied and worked well just not sure the chemical resistance is there. Thanks for watching 🤘😎

It’s definitely nice not dragging a power chord and hose around the house to spray trim 👌🏻

Congratulations 🎉

You can utilize more of the gallon as the paint is gravity fed down and also it’s easier to transport from room to room with a gallon in the hopper

@ that makes sense. Appreciate the reply!

kzbin.infoZoqzvD_XlmI?si=0YGBjDdAuGhNLdxP

I have another video gallery vs command where I waited 72 hrs and gallery performed well to the scratch test. 🤘😎🤘

Krud kutter, or ammonia and water, makes it sticky. I'd imagine cooking oils, and regular soaps would do the same over time

🤘😎🤘

I use gallery through the QS often I put pressure at 7,8 and use a Graco 310 fflp tip with flawless results also spray through my new Graco 490xt at 1800 psi with same tip for flawless results. It could be your tip. Also if you put it on too soon and primer or first coat are still drying can cause the craters as it’s off gassing through the new coat but if your waiting the full amount of dry time with proper temperature in room I’ve had issues with humidity causing the same issue. Not with gallery or command but with centurion 1k/2k.

@@mallerpaintingcompany Thank you for taking the time to walk me through this.

I deal with these solvent trapping problems as well. Even first coat, over primer that was applied days ago. And scuff sanded that day. Worked with the rep, who even called the hotline. As much as I hate mail order, I moved on to Envirolak and never looked back.

I turned out the pump went out. Tried installing new gun and nothing. Put old gun back on and replaced pump and was good as new 👌🏻

We spray face frames and exterior of boxes with prime and paint mainly SW Gallery Series

Your welcome! Thanks for watching 🤘😎🤘

Sounds like your material is too thick. Try thinning. Turn your air down a little and fluid up a little this will cause more paint to come out quickly and thinning will allow your paint to flow. Good luck 👍🏻

@mallerpaintingcompany Thanks. I thinned about 12%. (8 ounces water + 60 ounces paint). Maybe I needed as much as 18% to 20%. These HVLP's can't pull thick products, I assume. I have a #4 ford viscocity cup. Someone said 45 second max to empty that cup gives the viscosity for the HVLP, but man, 12% water wasn't even close. , Trying hard to get this dialed on furniture before doing cabinets.

Today I can even get the unit to suck paint. Took apart and redid fittings I thought might leak, and blew air through remote pot fluid hose (when it was detached from the unit), made sure the tube in the remote pot isn't plugged, and made sure the hand held gun isn't plugged. I guess it must be the viscocity again. I thinnned 12%, but unlike in the past, this time no go. I am using #6 tip set up, rather than #3 tip set up. I am going thin more and see if I can get paint flowing. scientist at work here, lol.

No problem thanks for watching 🤘😎🤘

I like it!

🤘😃🤘

Very nice machine but I do find myself preferring my small airless

You can tool it however it’s like wiping melted marshmallows so have plenty of rags handy 🤣

You are correct! there aren’t any KCMA certified cabinet paints at all. I misspoke in a couple of my videos as many people do. After further investigation last year I found out that the certification is for cabinets. If you build cabinets with quality craftsmanship, construction and apply proper coatings the cabinets as a whole will receive this KCMA certification. Now that being said there are certainly coatings that are approved to meet this certification and Advance is one of them. But there aren’t any paints with KCMA certification only paints that “meet”KCMA test requirements for hardness and resistance to household chemicals. Once those coatings are applied to the cabinets the cabinets will receive the certification