Curious if this new AMS TPU is tacky or sticky like the 95a TPU? I'm looking to make wheels and tank tread segments, which don't need to squish but it would be good if they were tacky... and the 95a is printing like straight garbagio on my X1C. Not sure if I need to chase better print settings or what. What do you think? Thanks for sharing your experience.

si yo le pego una cama magnetica el proceso es el mismo por su espesor?

where did you get your apron?

hey man. whats that too looks handy for clean up between that build plate? kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp68lKyBaqmgZqs

Thanks for the video! I never replaced one of these but you should tighten it from side to side. I use replace like those big commercial billboard and i noticed that the best way was from side to side. Not sure this would help..... Hope it makes it easier!

ey i'm new to printing but found a couple a videos had to watch all three and use different parts of them because nonone is explaining it well at all, but basically, the divot part of the build plate once you attach it in, that is your ( front ), pull it out flip it 180 degrees clock wise. the front divot should be facing at you but upside down now. and turn it sideways again this time flipped 180 degrees " clock wise "now lookat your grid what you see now is that the grid on the mars menu starting form 1 will be on the right side but its actually on the left side when you are looking at your build plate in the real world. this is if you also followed the orientation instructions above correctly . " that is 1 , 2 , 3 on the bottom right side going up" and then for the left side it repeats itself so go back down this time but on the left side and travel up like the right side. it will be 4, 5, 6 starting from the bottom of the left side going up. Mind you we are still holding the build plate sideways at 180 degrees clockwise. ok so lets summarize now. the " bottom right is "1" and it goes up . the top left is 6. make sure the plate is sideways 180 degrees clock wise . You can use the same method for calibrating 4 prints to 8 prints at once . Good luck oh one more thing the 1 value is you highest exposure and the 4 , 6, or 8 is your lowest exposure

ITs not the realy unroot. Its only factory reset...

have you tried to clean with elegoos detergent ?

do you have a screen protector on yours? is there a con to having one?

"Auto Leveling" is a fake marketing term it actually adjusts the Z which is not the same as Bed leveling. You should always want the option to manually level.

I just started 3D printing and have this W&C station my question is how long should wash the parts for

Well i just saw this video after the previous one. If i may give again my situation, i NEVER successfully achieved any full print with my S4U. The back of the build plate always fail, nothing sticks ton the bed. Some of the supports in the middle are hanging, partially removed from the build plate. The front parts are in pretty good condition. if the back of the plate fails because of loose, it means if have to tighten the screws to reinforce the spring tension ? Or does it mean i have to losen it to lower the back of the plate ?

Ok great but... What to do after that ? I have this printer since a month and zll my prints fail on the back of my build plate. Does it mean it's not leveled ? After tou see one of the papers is lose, what is to do ? Unscrew a bit the springs on the top of the bed block ?

Man, was hoping it would allow me to adjust for a magnetic flexplate, but apparently it just doesn't like those in general. Maybe on another update

Well I can’t get that time back.

What is your enclosure solution? I'm trying to decide on an enclosure to contain the fumes but I don't have a window that would work for an exhaust fan. I do have an air purifier (which I know won't get all of the particles but it's better than nothing) that I plan on having running inside the enclosure

So it does nothing but to allow you to manually run the auto self leveling part that it does before a print.

One of the best videos I've seen. Actually based on kit I have, not a generic video, specific and informative. Much appreciated. Keep up the good work. Cheers.

1 of my corners is always loose. It causes many problems. I cant figure out how to fix it. Every single time I print it has fails.

How are you venting your hot box?

awesome

Orca Slicer seems nice, everyone raves about much more faster you can print with it, but I'm printing faster with Cura. What settings should I use in Orca to speed things up a bit?

Thanks for posting this video!

FLAMING DRAGON.!

i have my mars 5 ultra buildplate assembled in a way that there is no room for adjustments unless you glue a washer on each corner of the top plastic cover, so the adjustment screws rest on it and pull a corner if needs to. this is so shit and useless design, it doesn't autolevel at all and obstructs cleaning process, ugh

the original guide from elegoo suggests you to place a piece of something soft under the film when fastening it in the frame, to increase slack and reduce tension when it is installed in the vat

Id like your opinion on Paramount 3D's "FlexPLA" - it melts kinda like candle wax, so you have to really dial in and slow down, but depending on model, can be stiff, or flexible squish (mostly outer walls) Be careful with layer adhesion though - as it can 'tear' along lines with cuts in them. It is strange to print with.

Thanks for the sharing your experience with bambu's AMS TPU. I might grab a spool to try out but it is pretty pricey.

Well done posting this kind of video! It makes you stand taller than other KZbinrs by admitting your own fault. Others would just ignore it and move on.

I feel like its not a replacement for 'normal' TPU, but it'll be very good for a lot of more functional prints that you'd want to be a little 🤏🤏squishy/flex. I actually want to get my hands on a spool or two of this filament.

Don't you use the Allen wrenches and adjust the bolts on the build plate to adjust tension

I don’t know much about printing, but could you make half of the ball bamboo and the other half the black TPU.? Just to see if that helps the bounce

“At least it doesn’t shatter” * 2 seconds later “Yes it does” 😂😂😂

I have many problems with Saturn 4. It has one corner tighter than others. Got to manual level every time I print. Not recommend this machine

Hahah I already Thought this video was coming. That last video had me laughing. You were so serious. Good you adress this!

Thanks!

So the calibration has to be done for each resin we purchase. After that we set the exposure time for that resin correct?

So this thing doesn't have pressure sensors in the LCD. The only pressure sensor is in the build arm at the top. So the printer has no way to know if it's level or not. But that's not really the main issue here. The main issue here is that the build plate can't lock in so even if pressure was applied evenly the second that pressure is released. The Springs are going to spring back to their resting position AKA out of level and this is why there are so many issues with this printer. The next issue is that the bill plate is free floating and it's free to shift on XY and Z. It is not locked into place. Is a very interesting design that I'm not sure how it got past the drawing board as even a basic engineer would look at this and think nothing about this design could be considered leveling or even appropriate for the type of accuracy that we're aiming for in msla printing.

Hey! Does this also work with the Saturn 4 (not ultra) because I have the regular Saturn 4 and I cannot find any videos on it

worth to watch

I have Saturn S2 8k, and leveling on that thing is a breeze. Looking at those 8 screws which need to be adjusted..eh..I dont like that design.

well, the issue is maybe not the build plate, but that moving bottom part. Maybe it is off on some sides. And if it is off, how do you adjust it?

I've been having a really rough time with the Mars 5 ultra and Saturn Ultra. Both seem to constantly fail in the front left area regardless of settings

Hey mine shows adjusting screws on top but they are not designed to adjust its just loose or tight any ideas?

I just bought the S4U. I see you print miniatures, and I wanted to ask what resin you use and if you post your settings for that resin?

Would heating up a scratch awl or something work a bit better you think to make the holes or would the heat from the tip of the awl warp the film too much?

I like to use the UVTOOLS and I never had any issues with my prints since I began using it. It can even help find island and resin traps when you load a sliced model. You should try it.

8:27 this graph displays pressure on bed lever it cannot tell whether or not pressure is 'even' on the screen, those plateau means that printer stopped to move build plate downwards, e.g. increasing pressure, whole this procedure is pretty much a placebo for s4u because it's impossible to level build plate perfectly without disassembling it, so default configuration is assuming that build plate is skewed and triggers zero when it detects pressure kind-of equal to all four springs compressed

Shouldn't you remove the supports before washing

my p1s HATES tpu every time i've used it the nozzle hotend gets clogged