Thanks we appreciate that a lot! We would love to get back to it if we lived in the same state and hopefully will one day soon!

Fiberglass flares. They were on the car when I got it, it sat abandoned since the 80’s so I cant help much as to what brand they are.

@@NotForDowntowners I appreciate it man. I’m def digging it tho! I figured I ask cause I really wanted flares to get wider wheels but man this is smooth ! Keep up the good work man! 🙏🏽💪🏽

Right on man, good luck with your build!

When this video was filmed it was a th350, I swapped to a 4l80e, currently it’s a 5spd manual

Frame was already shortened when we got the truck sorry

When in doubt, grab a larger hammer.

So, some people call that situation a gen 3.5. I could be wrong but what I’ve read it’s motors that were warrantied or certified replacements built after gen 4 engines were introduced but before gen 3 were phased out.

Hptuners on factory pcm’s works fine. I’m friends with a local tuner that tunes all of my cars. This particular motor ended up getting holley terminator x

In my opinion, none other than the small displacement gain. I’d chose the aluminum motor over an iron motor anytime I was given the opportunity.

Oh yeah, the car was definitely pieced together. Maybe Johnny cash built it.

Unfortunately not. The car got finished and sold but Doug and I don’t live in the same place for now so the videos have stalled. If you’d like pictures though I’d be happy to send some. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

Thanks I’m glad we could help! It will be a while before we have more videos as one of us is moving out of California so we won’t be in the same place for a while.

Honestly I’d be guessing but it would surely be a bit lower if you ran the exact springs I ran. You could possibly run factory springs for a 350 car or even a 6 cylinder car and it would sag it down. I’d probably try and run some drop springs designed for a big block Chevelle that way the springs rates and drop are correct.

Fit in the 1974 amc gremlin I put it in….

Damn it must have sat low in there. I tried to do my turbo that way in gbody would not fit. Great vid by the way I took a bunch from int

Only the newer ones

@@NotForDowntowners is a 2004 6.0 out of a Silverado ss a gamble? I read that the lq9 were all gen 4 rods because they’re floating rods. But have also read opposing opinions. I appreciate the help

@@alexbautista1858 easiest thing would be just pull the pan and look. That’s right on the cusp of the change over I think. Also it being an ss car could change things too and maybe it got the beefier rods.

I should have done that from the start. I don’t have the car any more but I do have a big block laying around that I’m donating to our omega eventually. Hindsight is always 20/20

I’m not certain what you plan to do with the car or truck but I’d gap the rings for peace of mind. The extra heat added to combustion with a turbo is prone to expanding the rings so it’s just good practice to be on the safe side. As far as power goals it seems to me you’d be running a smaller turbo so that it spools lower to balance out a fairly healthy camshaft. I’m not a professional by any means and Richard Holdner likely has some great videos relating to cam and turbo size so check him out! He’s probably the most experienced and real dyno results will help you figure out what you want and how to get it. Larger cams by definition usually make the engine less efficient at lower rpm because they change how and where the engine breathes the best. If it doesn’t breath well down low it also won’t spool a turbo particularly well down low either I would think. So it is a bit of a Band-aid to turbo the motor to meet the low end goals. If the cam had a high enough LSA and not too much duration you’d probably be fine, I just don’t know exactly where it was designed to make power. Also the small turbo you’d use to combat the turbo lag could actually be a detriment to efficiency at the top end of the power range. I don’t have experience with the cam you’re running and I’d bet the engine makes great power for you at 10 psi, I’m just not sure it’s the best for low end goals if it is in fact a large cam, or you plan on towing with the car or something like that. Hope this helps and check Richard out like I said, Super informative channel. My .02¢ I’d slap the turbo on and run it and see if you like it, cam swaps aren’t too hard in the future if it doesn’t do what you want it to do.

@@NotForDowntowners For sure, thanks! It's got a BTR stage 3 truck cam and it's in my 99 Chevy 1500 4x4. I just daily drive it and it's nice having the extra get up and go, I just don't like having to wait until 3000 rpm for the powerband, although dropping $7k+ on a manual swap would probably fix that, then it's no problem. The 4l65e kinda feels like it's holding the engine back, and the engine shredded the torque converter about 3 months after the tranny was rebuilt lol.

@@superbroadcaster If you went with a higher stall converter after it blew the first one that could explain a bit of the feeling of low end torque loss as well. I assume you’d need a higher stall to work well with the camshaft so that’s not a problem it’s the right thing to do, but if it doesn’t flash until 3k then it can feel sort of sluggish for a bit especially if it doesn’t downshift. Anyways it sounds like a sick build man, enjoy it and I bet it that’s a pretty quick truck and a sweet driver.

if you have the choice between the two, always go 4l80e, its significantly stronger.

Heck yeah, that’ll be a sweet project!

I wouldn’t worry about it honestly. Pistons won’t wear out unless the motor was overheated in an extreme fashion or ran awful gas. If it has even compression across the holes I’d run it. Odds are if you pull the bottom end apart the bearings won’t even be scarred if it had regular oil changes. These things are pretty bulletproof.

@@NotForDowntowners thank you

At the crank? You could get there with longtubes, cam, and a good tune easily. Watch Richard holdener. He has a video based on each size LS and what it takes to get over 500hp.

@@NotForDowntowners thanks! I’ll do that. Does he cover 450-500 to the wheels?

No, he uses an engine dyno but you can sorta guess based off the engine number. With a manual trans my lq9 in my nova would make around 450. It did 420whp through a slipping th350. It’s a really basic motor, stock bottom end, cam, fast intake (not necessary), good headers, and a tune.

Sorry we’ve been so behind man! We filmed a bit today and next weekend the corolla is getting the exhaust done and we will be firing it up in the next couple weeks!

Haha I had a 67 shortbed 4x4 I liked a lot, owned a few fox’s. Other than that I can’t say I’m much of a Ford guy

73+ is my favorite bodystyle. I had a 78 and an 80 both 454 trucks, also had multiple k5’s.

Yes to both

@@NotForDowntowners thanks. I’m trying to find the reverse light wire and brake light wire on the diagram

If you took your time this is something a beginner could do. None of it is difficult, it’s time consuming, especially if you’re trying to make it look good as well. The harness comes with a wiring diagram and you’ll have the factory harness as a guide for routing.

That’s a difficult questions because budget always plays a factor. Honestly I’d probably just run an Elgin 1840-p and some pac 1218 springs. It’s budget friendly and a pretty good combo.

@@NotForDowntowners thank you that’s big help 🔥🔥👌🏽

Yeah we are

T56

@@NotForDowntowners Piggybacking because I'm restoring an 88 GTU with the 5.3. I hear the T56 is the way to go. What rear did you use and any tips on good parts to pick up along the way?

The car has a stock TII diff/axles. As far as good parts, if I did this car again I’d pony up for longtube headers. I used shorty aftermarket headers for a 2000 Camaro, they fit fine but I know there was power left on the table. You’ll love the swap, they car is a lot of fun. T56 is a great transmission but cd009 is an option as well as aisin AR5.