Depends upon what you mean by debris. If it's rust, you have three choices: some sort of acid, EvapoRust or a professional gas tank restorer who uses commercial equipment. If it's not rust, then I'd try acetone. A disclaimer first: this is dangerous using any chemicals and you need to wear PPE and work in an appropriate area. Fuel tanks are a pain in the backside when they're rusted up inside, which is what I suspect you have. If your tank is really bad, I'd consider replacing it with a better one or send it out to a shop who does this work. Believe me, you'll be thanking yourself if you do. That way, they can clean and seal the tank. There's a place in Tampa not too far from me, it's about $400 bucks to do a tank this size. Anyway, that's the short answer. Check KZbin for other folks videos on doing the actual tank wash if you so choose to do that yourself. Thanks for watching, cheers.

@@MotoRestoFL visually from the top there is so slight, small spoty rust. I used an endoscope to locate and retreive the broken screen filter from petcock. During that mission I did not see any rust. I believe what I'm dealing with is the debris from the other half of the filter that broke off and went into the tank. There are many pieces coming out with each flush that I do. Thank you.

Biance doesn't publish it's address, so I can't offer any suggestions on how to send it something. Whoops. Beyonce. My bad.

Thanks Dave. Wow, Spain! Tell me, does the Rain in Spain stiff fall Mainly on the Plain? lol

Thx for the reply 😂 actually we are quite lucky here almost never rains and average all round temperatures of 24c .. great for bikers like us 🥳 but a nightmare trying to get spair parts 😤. I bought a used set of carbs for my Z1 1975 from the states .. 2 months ago customs still fooking around with the paperwork… .. chat again soon happy new year don’t work to hard 🎉🙏

Thanks. Not bad for a garage hack job with a 120v AC Mig welder.

Thanks. It's actually better on copper washers like the ones on oil lines and such, they take a lot more heat and don't melt as easily... Allen Millyard just showed this as well on his last Norton Nemesis video. Old trick but it works. Cheers.

Thanks. Like I said on camera I hope it helps someone because I've been screwing it up all this time and just figured the dang thing out. lol

Pulls well, but it was ok before, just broke up a time or two here and there, but that annoys the heck outa me.. lol. They needed to be gone thru, no question... all that surface rust just really got my crawdad in a knot. Things like that just irritate the creosote out of my chimney. Cheers.

At my age, if I can bend at all, it's a good day. Cheers.

Yep. Although, my buddy has ridden many a tire down to nearly the cord with a plug in the thing and without one single hiccup.

Thanks. Cheers.

Wow, Finland! Thanks. Cheers.

Park that dang truck and git'er done! lol.. Cheers.

Hardly. I can't even read my own mind... lol

21176-0064. There are two cam sensors, the parts fiche shows them both the same. If you need to find them on any Kawasaki parts fiche, look in the fuel injection fiche and you'll find them there.

Apologies, my memory ain't as good as it was, what is TOT in reference to?

@@MotoRestoFL This old Tony

Interstate's are getting harder to come by, so great score.

That's a good theory, but I seriously doubt it. Service manual states idle speed setting is 900 RPM Plus or Minus 100 RPM. This thing would barely run if at all, under 900. That, and the fact you can generate full oil pressure with the starter cranking alone, plus, it's a Honda. lol.. Can I ask where you saw that so I can maybe learn something new? Heck, I could be wrong, I've been wrong once.... ok, maybe twice.. lol. Thanks.

Hey Pete. I don't like any of these bikes, to be honest. Too clunky for me. Yea, they pull pretty hard, but my Concours 14 would destroy it. Cheers.

Thanks. Wish I had more footage, but circumstances crept up and things got in the way to shoot any test riding. I only took it up and down the road anyway, since it "may have" (ahem) not been anointed with a proper tag yet... lol

I just got a colonoscopy week ago Monday, however, if I had owned a ZX-14, I wouldn't have needed one... that thing would have made me shite my pants, dang rocket ship... lol.. cheers.

Well, I'm no volumetric engineer by any stretch, but stands to reason, for a given cubic centimeter displacement and piston stroke, there'd be greater individual vacuum pulses with each intake stroke on one of these with two jugs, as opposed to a 1300cc in-line four cylinder. So, it's more CFM movement of air and the force of the intake stroke that might make one think this animal gobbles up the air each time it rotates. I'm not too sure, again, but the carb bore (venturi) diameter is quite large, for sure.

Definitely want to hear about that and how they work, keep in touch. Cheers. Merry Christmas back to you and your family. I'm working on this year's Christmas video and which "reading" I'm gonna do, last year was from the book of Honda, maybe different this year. lol

That's a really good question, so I took a look at the fiches for an '86 ZG1000 and a Voyager from the same year. The pumps themselves are a different part number. The O-Rings shown on each fiche are also completely different part numbers. There's no way to tell if the seal kit would be the same based upon the fact the fiches suggest they're completely different pumps. Doesn't mean the innards aren't the same, but no way to tell without tearing one down and finding out.

Hmmmm...food for thought. Thanks for checking the fiche.

Well, then you probably don't need a regulator. But I'd recommend some sort of shut off at least, that's up to you.

Thanks. Me too.