Sounds like you’ve got some time to think about it but yeah, they’re typically worth fixing. If you don’t someone else will!

They are a carb cleaning tool as well, with these sold by K&L, a carb part manufacturer. As I said, be careful and don’t damage the brass. You can damage anything if you’re not careful, even with the proper tools.

Good way to rule out the headgasket would be to pressurize the coolant system then wait 20 mins and borescope the cylinders. Mine passed the exhaust gas tester and didn’t smell til right when I figured it out, but 5 of 6 cylinders had tiny leaks. The exhaust gas pressure also boiled the overflow reservoir (but that could’ve been the radiator cap).

@ you may have passed the exhaust gas test because ur thermostat was closed

Thermostat was not closed.

@@themotofirm this is also a issue ive had in the summer i fail exhaust gas and in the winter i pass. Assuming its the temp

As far as I know, the 4.0 doesn’t have a MAP sensor. If you have a check engine light, the code can be for a Barometric Pressure Sensor (BPS) which is incorporated into the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor at the top/front of the engine. So maybe try cleaning that first with contact cleaner and microfiber (get the edges of the plate). If you clean or replace, make sure to disconnect the battery for at least ten minutes, then reconnect and drive. It may die on the first start attempt, but give the computer some time to readjust to the new airflow amounts.

Thanks for the information. The truth is that no one told me that I didn't have a sensor map. I'm so thankful bro

Mine would not downshift properly but did not move forward with the clutch in. It sounds like your clutch cable may be giving up/stretching. I would replace that and see if the problem persists.

The Toyota FSM I used specifically outlines this procedure. If you rotate back 40 degrees, no piston is at TDC. I’m thinking this just makes it safer when rotating the cams to/from timed position especially if you accidentally go past due to the springs pushing on it.

Seems like that is an oddball, most places only had down to 2.3mm. But I found one here: a.co/d/2UV0YW1

@@themotofirm wow thanks a lot! ✌️

Could be it, hope it works out

This carb was already pretty clean. But Napa has a spray, think it’s called aluminum brightener, helps clear up oxidation. Used it one engine cases, should work on the carb body.

Right on thank you

The carb tools (welding torch cleaners also work) are around $10, and a set of cheapy micro drills is around $15, thanks!

Yeah it’s wild! Thanks

Thank you!

Right on, thanks!

I don’t. I usually find em on eBay, or rebuild the old ones with oem parts

Sweet! Glad it helped

Thanks dude

Took a while to figure out what you meant, I assume at 3:32? That is the needle jet, basically a guide for the needle, and makes the hole visible from the inside when you’re lowering the needle down into place. It presses lightly into the carb body from the bowl side, before the main jet and jet holder go in. Countersunk (tapered bore) goes toward the needle. I don’t typically mess with them since they don’t do much and don’t really go bad, but maybe I replaced this one since the kit had it, not sure.

Never checked them, bike doesn’t eat oil so I assume they’re alright

I have the same bike I layed it down not hard it's making that sound what cct dis you ordered I want the same one.

Sorry, been messing with a lot of other projects and videos! But I’m officially starting on episode 4!