Thanks, glad to hear that. I had the same when was working on it. I initialy planned to keep it short :D

Sure, please ask below the 'photometric stereo video and will try to answer when I have some time. I usually review and try to answer all under-the-video comments, especially that this way it can benefit more people at the same time :) and we can learn from eachother. I don't monitor Instagram very often so probably missed that one. Cheers!

Thank you, veeeeeeeeery appreciated :D. Yeah, for some reason KZbin doesnt find much value in content I produce :D This is why I would really appreciate any re-shares and mentions as maybe it helps algorithm to kick in. Anyway, big thanks for watching and commenting :).. it really means a lot. Cheers!!!

Hey, sorry for confusion. Yeah, you are totally right. I planed to make it more obvious but insead cut this part too keep video shorter and decided to move it to the next one I plan which is basically the summary. So both values are in gamma space - one is represented by integeers in 0-255 (default for Photoshop/Substance Designer) range while the others are in float 0-1 (default for Blender/Unreal). The only fully linear value in linear space is the whiteness which gives us the % of light which gets reflected by each surface.

Thank you Tjeu, very appreciated :). Cheers ♥

Thank you Barnyz :D. Very appreciated. Yeah, now when its finally released I can just sit and relax... maybe play some games and watch some movies before the next subject will get me into. Cheerio!!!!

@GrzegorzBaranArt next video... greenest green please 🙏 and replicate the pure green from blackadder 🤣

@@Barnyz sure, just after the pinkiest PINK gets published ;P .. btw..to be honest, green color is actually extremely interesting. Did you know that we perceive green color more than others? Green is actually very dark, but since a while ago most of our environment was green, human species needed to develop better visibility in such environment. If we remove green component from green objects... by desaturating them.. they turn into very grey.. almost black. So we can say that humans have 'green vision' the same way as some other species might have 'night vision' etc :)

Thank you <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 :D

:) I am also a big fan of dark mode in any digital devices

I measured it and added to my list a while ago. It was shifting towards green and blue but not much. Its linear whiteness were at 55%. As far as I remember, the whites brightess was dependent on how long the egg was boiled. It is also volume scatterer, so a lot of light leaked through it :). If you are looking for some quick, magnification videos, I would recommend to get to my other channel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZnLdJ2ibpJmd7s Actually I might add it in this video description if there is more folks interested seeing them. I stopped recording them as youtube 'ghosted' them for some reason.

To be honest, the office printer paper I measured didnt mention OBA at all. But its obvious it has a lot of it. I also found that cheap white toilet paper use a lot of OBA... I guess people use them more when brighter.

I initially planned it to be much shorter, especially after the 'backest Black' one, which I found already extremely challenging to make die to its length. The other idea I had was to cut it into series of shorter videos but at the end, I decided just to split it into sections/chapters, so everyone can jump between without searching for other videos. I really hope this lenght is justified tho and it isnt boring to watch :). I know its scary.. it was scarry even to me. Will do my best to make next videos shorter :D but its still skill I need to develop.

@@GrzegorzBaranArt Nah... they are alright as they are. It would be challenging to do a conference with this as a short topic, but for yt is great.

:D

Thank you. I hope it turned into something fun and interesting to watch at least :)

Thank you <3. Veeeeery appreciated :)

@@GrzegorzBaranArt Yep, I miss those too. But I really enjoy this experimental videos too! I don't think anybody is doing this!

What so you mean by - extremely dark? It can be too short exposure time, to small aperture, not enough light, lack of shutter sync. It's really hard to tell. Do you get light from flash? Do you use mechanical shutter setting? How far is the subject and whats the focal length? What is your shutter speed? What flah do you use? Is you subject metal? Do you use cross polarisation?

Sounds like an interesting idea. So far I dropped this video as the first one into a new 'Procedural Materials' section. Will see how it goes. Its definitely something worth some consideration, especially if more folks are interested. Time will tell. Cheers! Very appreciated <3

:D

You need to provide these features somehow or you will have to use different scanning technique. Photogrammetry is just one of many options in scanning pipeline. You can provide these by applying additional coating or markers or even projecting features using dedicated, modified light or laser. I would say, sky is the limit. But by adding such features and covering substance with markers, you are loosing surface color, therefore I guess that in your case the best technique would be probably laser or LIDAR scanning. Hope that helps, Cheers!

@@GrzegorzBaranArt What I do to preserve the colors when I have to do coating, is I scan it once without coating, only to get the colors for the texture, which gives me a bad geometry, but I use it later in blender to bake the texture for the object with the good geometry. The point is -- you have to use coating quite often, for instance: I was doing a photo scan on some object I had, and it had a blue shiny cover on the sides, and the sides cover had some areas that had a solid dark blue color, and the photogrammetry software got nothing from these areas on the point cloud, there were 2 problems here, the shininess and the featurelessness, since there was no reflection, only shininess I decided to cover it with scan spray but not a full cover, so this will also give me the spots I need for the photogrammetry. Worked perfect. The top of the object had white plastic which was not shiny, but the scan spray which was also white (talk powder), didn't create spots, so I mixed it with some black color that can be easily removed, and I got a grayish color, which covered the white top with gray spots (I didn't make a full cover as it wasn't even shiny) and this made the photogrammetry software capture every detail of the geometry. So I wonder, since you have to cover many objects with spots anyway for the photogrammetry software to work, does the polarized light and lens really make a big difference in the workflow? I do have to say that when an object is very reflective, or transparent you have to first cover it fully with a white scan spray first, to get rid of the reflection or transparency, and then you cover it with black spots to enable the photogrammetry process, so maybe it will save you one stage of the work, since you only have to cover it with an incomplete coverage of scanning spray like you do with a shiny or a featureless object.

@@danielkotzer636 It depends on certain case. Cross-polarisation is just an option. Its extremely useful and easy to use and gives you 'glare free' surfaces. If surface has just single, uniform, featureless color, you can simply measure it (by referencing or with color spectrometer) and reproduce manualy. If the color is complex to the level it cannot be reproduced manualy, that probably means there are enough features you can use for navigation/alignent and reconstruction. If features are too small, nothing stops you to decrease the distance to the subject and put more of the subject within a frame instead - to the level you are getting these details. Also, you can mask out things you dont want from images. You can also build light cage to avoid side environmental reflections. As said, it all depends on the subject and exact case. You probably wont be able to scan complex and transparent crystal glass without coating and in such case you should use laser based systems. Some of these sestems combines both technologies - photogrammetry for color, and laser for silhuette and surface detail. You can also mix this technique with photometric stereo etc. Sky is the limit here. Photogrammetry is just one of many options. Btw. everything has features at some level and this is where image quality pays back :) And yeah, there is also an option to scan your subject in two versions and mix these two together to get whatever you want to from each.

Thank you very much, I am really glad to hear that <3 Cheers!!! :)

Cheers! Very appreciated <3

:)

Looks like I might need to speed up work on my incoming book as I cover such things there in detail :D A lot depends on how you plan to use it and what is going to be the subject. Its better to have more pixels than less, especially in long term - bear in mind that you might need to reuse images you captured even years after the capture. 30Mpx should be enough for anything. From these two I would probably pick Canon EOS 5D Mark IV over 6D II for this exact reason but I dont know any of these cameras well enough. If these are second hand cameras, I would advice to take a look on shutter counter as it usually constraints cameras life span. And you are right, pixel size does affect how much light each pixel receives therefore it can affect the image quality. Larger pixel catches more light therefore result will be less noisy in poor lighting conditions. But in this case I dont think its as relevant and I think higher resolution would be more benefitial for reconstruction. As said, it all depends on the subject. Its really the lens which has significant impact on image quality not the sensors pixel size.. unless you shot in a dark environment without supporting lighting - like interiors for example. In such case larger sensor pixels with denser coverage will have more sense. To be honest.. it wont matter as much here and you should pick the camera which feels more reliable for you. As I see 6D II has adjustable tilted screen which I found extremely helpful during outdoor captures while Mark IV seems to have a fixed one. Sorry if I didnt help. I wouldnt buy any of these and I can tell you that currently I use CanonR and I consider it as good enough for anything I do. It can still use EF lenses if you use an adapter - btw. if you consider it, please always use genuine canons adapter as 3rd party counterparts can damage cameras electronics. Feels shambolic.. hope that makes sense. Any camera you get will be good if you know how to use it and how to get the most of it. There will be always better and more expensive cameras on the market. Its not worth to overpay for it as evey camera has limited life span and needs to be replaced at some point. I would rather consider investment in a good lens as it lasts longer. This is why I decided to move to R as they use new lens mounts and I didnt want to keep investing in the old one anymore which are officially discontinued by Canon.

​ @GrzegorzBaranArt Thank you, that was really useful info. I'll be shooting mostly outdoors and Godox AR400 will not appear at the same time with lens and camera. So that is why and also the budget, the main reason why I prefer DSLR. But maybe I will change my mind, R cameras are really sweet :) But used DSLRs and lenses in Ukraine are stunning cheap and I always can test them before purchasing. And maybe I'm a bit fan of true "clank-clank" :)

@@Pavlo_Horb The reason why they are so cheap is that DSLR were discontinued. There is still a click-click with mirrorless ones :) as they still ue shutter - which is a must if you shot with the flash light. I would rather use the fact they are cheaper and get an old premium lens, but modern, mirrorless body with genuine branded adapter. DSLRs arent bad tho. They are great and I love them too and I would stick to them if they are not discontinued. The thing is that at some point there will be no more DSLR cameras to buy or spare parts to fix them. If you dont plan to purchase anything for them go for it, but if you plan further investments, I would plan with switch to Mirrorless cameras at some point in mind. But as said, there are really no bad cameras, there are just bad photographers ;P. Practice based skill makes 80% of the image/captures, camera just 20%. Good luck Pavlo. There are always pros and cons of each choice. Whatever you decide is going to be fine, if you make it work. Cheers and good luck <3

Very appreciated, especially that it took a lot of effort to compose it. Cheers <3 <3 <3

Cheers!

Fisheye lenses arent the best choice for props capture as you rather need to get as much of your subject into individual frame as preferably as non-distorted as possible. Such lenses tho can be useful for wide, 360 environmental HDRI captures as well as interior environmental scanning if low micro detail quality doesnt bother you.

:D

Hey, yeah, there are but I have found Syrp Genie Mini very accurate, responsive and easy to automate. To be honest, havent found any better solution to be honest. Its very expensive tho for scanning as I believe it was developed for very accurate timelapses and fully adjustable movement control. Turntable for scans is just an additional option. Thanks to its amazing accuracy it can be also used for macro scanning. To be honest, you can rotate things even without any turntable if this is what you want or cut one from a cardboard and just rotate it around with hand if you dont want to touch subject with hands. I saw some other cheaper semi-automated turntables with some adjustable stepping, but didnt test them. I would say, whatever works for you is fine. I never had any issues with Syrp Genie Mini 2 tho.

Cheers!

Thank you <3

Thank you <3

Anytime dude <3

Thank you, very appreciated <3

You are welcome <3

:D

Cheers :)

Hey. I would suggest to watch the video about it where I talk about it. I believe it was one about props scanning, but to answer qulcikly. 1: Kind of but only when it comes to HSS shooting. 2. Yeah, I use histogram fot this purpose. 3. Nah, photos can be taken however you want to. What matters is overlap and even light distribution 4. I covered it in detail in one of my videos I mentioned. Basically when the device shots certain amount of shots, AR400 gets into overheating protection mode and wont let you capture anything for 10 minutes so it has some time to cool down. Cheers!

I cant see why not, especially if you use 16bits to store grayscaled information. Its about point identification in space, so as long the same point can be recognized on consecutive images, nothing else matters. Color is just another piece of information that can help, thats it.

I dont know to be honest. When it comes to quality, I would rather purchase a clean, high quality and brand new polarisation sheet instead of recycling one from the screen. I consider my experiment here as a total failure and based on my experience I dont plan to recycle any filters anymore. I did that after I heard/read that its pretty easy and simple and decided to give it a try on my own. Its not. Not to mention that polarisation sheet is very delicate and each stretch, pull or high tempaerarure affects crystals structure/position/alignment which degradates the filter. Some in comments said that it depends on certain screen and sometimes the recycling process can be less painful while sometimes it is challenging.

Did you mean a LED one? I used to and copared both, LED and FLASH options with pros and cons both. I am pretty sure I answered this question in this video already :D unless I misunderstood your question

Cheers! :D

Thanks, you are welcome <3