The wattage of a "basic" soldering iron usually dictates the amount of heat that will be sent to the tip of the soldering Iron. Also, larger wattage irons of this style usually have larger tips as well. These larger tips literally radiate heat much more than a smaller wattage iron! Excessive heat applied can damage adjacent components on the circuit board. Things to keep in mind. The safest way to solder on a circuit like this is to use a temperature controlled soldering station, but these are expensive. I chose 25 watts as it's quite low. It's a long winded answer, I know, but you need to know where I'm coming from. So, to answer your question, I wouldn't go over 30 Watts. Good luck!

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I hear you! 👍

I used a single cut smooth file for mine. Unless you need to remove a lot of material (by using a double cut), the single cut smooth option should suffice. You'd need to finish up with a single cut smooth anyways to get a good edge.

Awesome thanks!

If the lock lever is stuck, then there may very well be a different issue going on. Possibly with another issue. Not sure what to tell you. 😞

With the engine off (and the vehicle parked on level ground), pull out the dipstick, wipe it off, and keep it out for 1 full minute. Then, the dipstick can be reinserted, then pulled out and read. The oil must settle. I hope this helps.

Thank you! 😊

Glad to hear you've got it open!

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In your case with the dipstick removed and wiped clean, I would wait 2 minutes (after the engine is turned off) before re-inserting the dipstick, for the oil to stop dripping internally onto the dipstick. It is quite common and yes, it's a pain.

Honestly, I'm subcribing to you for that. I was almost late to work.

Thank you! 😊

Do you have another window in your place that uses the same style of latching mechanism? If you do, you could examine its operation to get a better idea of how to get your latch to release?

Glad it helped you.

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Everything old is new again... even dust. lol

Yes, same locking system.

Thank you! Glad it helped you. 😊

Thank you so much!

When soldering, is it possible some solder crossed a connection inside? Another possibility is an accessory like an aftermarket stereo was installed with an "always live" wire and the "key-on" power wires joined/crossed? Though, if that was the case, the dash backlighting would also stay lit up.

@@mysimplefix Thanks, that was the issue! I’m such a blockhead lol

Glad you've got it fixed up. 👍

Incredible! Thank you so much for that feedback!😊

Nope, the clock display is supposed to turn off with the key in the off position, but there's a second power wire that's always on to keep the clock running.

@@mysimplefix thank you for the reply back . I don't know where I went wrong. Could I have soldered two resistors together by mistake? Would that give the clock constant power? I'm sorry I'm a total noob to all this hahahah

@@rohitjammu6047 well, it's hard to tell from here! lol. Is your key turning back all the way to the "off" position before you pull the key out? I know it sounds crazy, but if the ignition lock cylinder is worn out, maybe the key is being removed while still in the accessory mode? Click back all the way? Sorry, yes, you said it was in the off position earlier. Are there any other accessories, stereo's installed in this vehicle? Like an aftermarket stereo?

@@mysimplefix the key is indeed removed when in the off position. I just installed an aftermarket radio but that turns off when I remove the key. It's just the clock that has constant power at all times

Did you ever figure out what was going on? Was there an issue with the aftermarket stereo install? It's quite common to have back feeding issues if the new radio wiring is tapped into the wrong circuit. ?