On those Chargers, and Challengers as well, all three actuators should be the same. So no matter which brand you get, as long as it fits one of the other spots, it should fit in any of the spots…in theory. If you cannot get a new actuator to fit into a specific spot, next to the heater core in this case, I would just replace one of the other actuators with the new one and install the replaced actuator into the heater core spot.

You’re welcome, glad I could be of help!

No, that is the top of the fuel pump assembly (aka pump hat)

It is the wiring harness pigtail on the car that has to be changed, but only after getting a replacement pump with that new reconfigured plug connector.

@@NukeNukemson Thank you for your response did you by any chance had negative long term fuel trims when this happened?

@JoseSandoval-ic5xe I did not have any fuel trim abnormalities with either Charger when these connection/cracking issues were happening with their fuel pump hats, and that makes sense because the actual pump module inside the assembly worked fine during all the trouble. However, before the leaky hat issue on the 2012, i did replace that primary fuel pump assembly in it due to the pump going weak and eventually failing. And when it first started acting up (getting weak), it threw a DTC for a lean fuel trim and illuminated the Check Engine Light. It got me home that night, but then failed to start the next morning IIRC, at which point I diagnosed it and then replaced it.

Actually, the more I think back, the more I believe it continued to run for a while after the lean DTC and CEL, but I knew it was on the way out and so did the replacement within a few days when I had the chance to do the work

FYI: a lean fuel trim issue does not always mean the primary pump assembly (or the auxiliary sending unit on passenger side) is going bad. Many times it does mean one or the other needs to be replaced, but it could also just be an obstructed or partially clogged fuel filter/sock inside the primary pump assembly’s basket. Those little socks aren’t considered a serviceable item, so a complete pump assembly replacement would be the official repair for a clogged one, but I think I would try manually cleaning the debris off it first to see if that was all that was needed if I found mine to be severely clogged upon inspection

IIRC there is a TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley that can be used to position the #1 cylinder at TDC. You would need to remove that front timing cover piece to be able to see that pulley and align its TDC mark though, which is a pain in the butt. An alternate approach I’ve used is to pull the spark plug out of cylinder 1 and insert something like a really long one-piece socket extension into the spark plug hole, and watch that go up and down as i rotate the engine by hand. As soon as the intake rocker on cylinder 1 completes it’s up/down sequence then the extension should be at its lowest point of travel, and further turning over of the engine will slowly raise the extension up in the cylinder as the piston is coming on compression stroke. Once the extension stops going up and starts to go down, you know you just started the power stroke, which means TDC was just there. Rotate engine back a hair to get extension at its highest point again, and that’s TDC for that cylinder (number 1).

Thank you so much very useful information 👍. As far as turning the engine all I need is either a breaker bar or ratchet with a socket correct? Will I be able to do that with the serpentine belt on or should I remove it?

@@sergiosanchez4967 a breaker bar or stout enough ratchet will do it, you’ll just need to find a socket that will fit one of the accessory pulley bolts or the crankshaft bolt. Start the engine and watch the serpentine belt’s direction of travel to know which way to manually spin the engine with the ratchet and socket. (Seems like it spins counterclockwise, but I can’t recall for sure; definitely verify that with it running and observing the belt’s direction of travel).

Thank you so much this will save me a ton of money!!! Keep up the great work with the informative videos and feedback!!👍👍

@@sergiosanchez4967 Oh yeah, one more tip/trick: if you are having to spin the engine over manually with a breaker/ratchet, remove all the spark plugs first. Spinning it with the plugs still in the heads means you will fight the cylinders’ compression each time the pistons go upward. That requires extra effort to overcome as you turn it by hand obviously. Spinning the engine without the plugs in it is much easier to do when doing it by hand, not nearly as much resistance for each turn of the ratchet/breaker bar.

Getting a P0440 code is kinda like getting a P0300 - without one or more related codes also being stored with it to narrow down what the car believes to be the problem, diagnosing it will be nearly impossible. It’s just too generic to really know where to start. Make sure there are no outstanding emissions recalls on the car. And if there are, especially the one about a malfunctioning charcoal canister, go have those performed and then see the code returns afterward. Some of the Chargers were subject to a recall that basically has them replace the charcoal canister to address it. It wound be nice if that were all it was to your issue. You can have it fixed for free if it is!

Smelled strongly of gasoline

I used to have a 2012 Charger Pursuit. I got it up to 152 mph once on back road straightaway. It had more in it, but I got scared of going to jail and let up. I often wonder just how much faster I could have taken her that day…

If it’s just that top part that is cracked, you don’t have to change out the whole pump. That top part will separate from the bottom.

Correct

WHAT?!? You have a Ford?!? What happened?? You were always so level-headed and intelligent in your life decisions. It’s hard for me to imagine the tragic situation that befell you and led you to believe owning a Ford would be a good idea… It’s never too late to turn things around you know. Sell that Ford and get shut of the misery it brings. You’ll feel better and life will instantly get better. I promise!!

@NukeNukemson my neighbor gave it to me. He had enough. I took that little trouble maker in to see if I could change it's life. It's been rough

@@codyrabenaldt727 well the best advice I can offer for a ford owner, beyond get rid of it, is to try to work smarter not harder when trying to fix it. For example, before I pushed my aunt’s Taurus into the lake, I was going insane trying to repair its ignition, but the parts wouldn’t fit or work if they did happen to fit, and I was losing my mind going crazy trying do this simple fix. Then it dawned on me, I was going about it all wrong! That’s when I figured out the best way to install Ford parts: kzbin.infomqFNBIxHsW4?si=EEbkE0EJ6vTu3oPI

The sausage was ON the exhaust, not IN the exhaust!!

@@NukeNukemson I know damn it

P0441 isn’t a common issue with these cars that I’m aware of. Which engine is in it, the 5.7L V8 or the 3.5L/2.7L V6? The purge valve solenoid should be mounted to the back side of the passenger side strut tower under the hood IIRC, regardless of the engine. But that’s just one possibility for the P0441 code it looks like. There could be several other causes. Are there any outstanding safety recalls on the car? Make sure to have any emissions recalls addressed by the local dealership before diving too far into this diag.

As George Washington (or Thomas Jefferson or somebody old and wise) once said: “Man cannot live off beer alone!” AMEN!!

The HOA here doesn’t allow kids

kzbin.infozRO8Kn_qBwY?si=ebr9UgSMQ4x5sJBX

You should start smoking turkeys on that sumbich. That sweet diesel taste..

That was a 2012

It’s been a while since I did that work, but I don’t think there should be much play. Any amount of play allows the rocker body to eat up the aluminum next to it, making more play, and so on.

It’s okay if you are talking about immediate dangers. There is no immediate danger of failure with minimal play. The engine will still start and run like it has been doing. But that play will only increase over time until it turns into a problem and needs replacement. How long that takes depends. Keep the oil changed; don’t run extended OCIs. If it begins clacking on startup on cold mornings, that’s when you need to start formulating a plan for addressing it - either replacing parts or replacing car will be in the near future at that point.

From the running engine? A worn lifter or rocker arm is a common source of clicking/tapping noises on these cars. Which engine, 5.7L or 3.6L?

Me too I have I 5.7 rt 2012 and it has this same issue. As soon as I turn the car on and I’m about to pull off I hear some ticks and then once I get going it just goes away. I’m so nervous dude to the fact I just spent all my savings on this car and don’t currently have the funds to do much with it

@@NukeNukemson 3.6L VVL. Hasn’t done it lately.

@@Guitaroverkill the 3.6L isn’t known for valve train oiling issues, that I’m aware of anyway. I will say I’ve the same happen on various motors over the years, and I was able to solve it by replacing the oil filter. I guess some just come with faulty oil drain back valves, no rhyme or reason. If I get valve train noise at start up where there previously was none, I’d change the filter to a new one and that’d fix it. If your issue persists across several different oil changes and/or filters, this is not going to be your problem. But if it suddenly pops up after an oil change (and presumably a new oil filter), try replacing the filter and see if that helps.

@@NukeNukemson ok thanks. I did get an oil change and I haven’t noticed it again. You could be on to the solution. Thanks

There was no codes or CEL at that time, it was a strong odor of gasoline inside cabin that had me searching for possible causes. That charcoal canister was one possibility I ended up ruling out. Eventually the CEL came on with a P0456 (IIRC - whichever one is for a small EVAP leak), but I had already identified the problem (cracked plastic fuel pump hat) and was just waiting on the new fuel pump to be delivered to fix it, which it did.

I don’t have any codes but we bought this charger and the fuel gauge is never correct. Out of gas at a quarter stuck on fill at times etc. a month later it won’t let me put more than a couple dollars in the tank it just bubbles out or drains slow. Would you guess pump or evap?

@@keysjennifer you should try to ascertain how much fuel is in the tank (both sides - the gauge is supposed to display the average of left and right side of tank) to make sure it isn’t actually full now. If it is, that would explain not being able to add more. If it isn’t, there might be a problem with the fuel filler neck. The EVAP and purge system is electronic, so a failure in those systems should not prevent filling fuel at the filler neck. Plus a failure with one of those systems should show up as a CEL with corresponding DTCs indicating a problem.

​@@keysjenniferyou need a new fuel pump sending unit with the float clearly there is an issue with your float because if gas is coming out more than likely the tank is full but the car isn't reading that it's full it should just be one whole unit that you take out and put in, relatively easy fix if you have some mechanic experience, on the other hand it could just be you have some damaged wires or electrical connections between that unit and the ECU

How did u fix it my car has the same problem.