Hi Rusty. Thanks for watching.. the axle was produced by 2 spec. Great service and very helpful. www.2spectransmissions.co.uk

😂. It’s entirely possible Chris. I’m no expert.. but one thing is for sure , these arches wouldn’t fit the other way around. When I took them out of the box originally I had no idea which way they went, but it soon became apparent, one way fitted the wing and swage line to a certain level, I’ll say fit “loosely”, and the other way the curve was wrong, didn’t follow the wing or swage line onto the bottom of the wing at all, and the ends were 5 inches off the body, so it was night and day. One way fitted and the other simple didn’t, so they went on the way they fitted. In the current installation the end of the arch, closest to the door hinges, fits the natural swage line of the mark 2 and the front curve’s into the front splitter. For info the front splitter isn’t fitted and needs work, it was only cleco clamped into position to mock up the arches for fit. Once installed for the last time it’ll sit as you mention, bottom lip parallel to the ground. But let me know if you have any photos contrary to what I’ve said. I just couldn’t fathom how they’d fit the other way round, and thanks for heads up.

Thanks. 😂. Hope the video helped.

Hi. It’s a cheap generic one from Amazon. I took a punt and didn’t expect good things but it’s a held up and very hand. 👍🏻

Unfortunately not. I was planning to use a tension kit as it’s a bolt on kit. But it should be pretty simple, you just need to know where the bracket goes. That’s the difficult part and I’m sure a measurement won’t come in the kit.

@@gavinwallace9345 do you some mesurement ?

There’s called Cleco sheet metal fasteners. You can Google, eBay or Amazon them. There’s many different makes but they all do the same job. Thanks for stopping by and making the time to ask.

Thanks Ettore. Much appreciated. The channels not dead. More videos coming soon. Most of the resto to be fair. Covid kicked my ass, physically, professionally and financially so it’s been a long process of re-training and Jump starring my career, but definitely more coming soon.

@@gavinwallace9345 GOOD LUCK

Glad the video helped. Did it fix the problem?

@@noideabuilds9248 yes fix!

Good luck. Let me know.

I don’t have any pictures. That strip was a nightmare, basically you can’t get straight access to remove the spot welds. I basically used a flappy paddle disc, or 3, and ground the small strip away, carefully as to not damage the rain gutter. Good news is there is gutter it self welded to the quarter panel under the roof so plenty of material to go at. Hope it helps.

I just grind away what is not going to be used, eg just grind the drip rail away from the donor roofskin until it doesn’t exist, you want only the roof skin

Ohh 😮 that sounds like the whole mechanism is locked up. Do you use the boot/trunk often. If not try some penetrating spray to loosen up, failing that the spring might have broken and jammed in such a way the lock is jammed locked. I really don’t know how you’d tackle that. You’d have to see how much of the lock you could take apart with the lid stuck. 😢

Glad to help Jolyon. The plastic is tricky but well worth the time and free fix. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍🏻

Hi Brian thanks for message, update and loads to come for the escort. It’s far from complete.... should be too long before a update comes and then I can get back into the build. The last few years has kicked the crap out of me so I’m trying to get my life in order but if things go to plan I’ll be back with serious gusto soon enough.

Lol. I didn’t have much change left. Hence why it’s not finished yet. 😬. Thanks for watching.

I'm 18 months in with a 1980 yellow 16 sport from sa, ready for paint(in white too)

Thanks for asking. Unfortunately not. Since just before covid I lost my job, career, livelihood and nearly the house. Good news is, I still have the car and the house, and I’ll hopefully be back to the resto in the coming months. Watch this space.

Thanks Mark. The cars not finished unfortunately, far from it. The good news is more content should be dropping soon. I’m just trying to get my Stuff/live together. Watch this space though. How’s your S2000, is it finished?

@@noideabuilds9248 hi, I’m currently doing dry build so it’s a bare shell at the moment , chassis mounting the engine and bulkhead to repair, plenty to do but the outer body is already painted so hopefully won’t take long to put together after fabrication

@@noideabuilds9248 hi, anymore updates since on we last spoke? Mine is still a bare shell but I’ve fell down the slippery slope of 4link, watts, atlas, turrets etc, so much for just an engine swap. Cheers Mark

@@Hondamark2 Hi Mark. No news really. I still have the car, it’s ready for bodywork and paint but finding time is impossible these days. I’ve started a new job after covid times and I’m out the country more than I’m in right now. Hopefully in a few months things will settle and normal service can resume. So where are you at regarding the 4 link. Have you chopped anything up yet?

Hi, I’m on with setting the link boxes now, however I’m not using the gartrac 2 piece boxes, I’m using the big bush wide 1 piece boxes, however there a bit of a mare to set up, I thought they would be easier but the floors cut now and there set in, turrets and watts to do next Are you on any social media or messenger etc ?

Thanks for watching. I think this is an elegant and simple solution. It looks good and is practical for servicing etc. Good luck with your build.

Hi Alister. Thanks for stopping by. Yeah, unfortunately the e53 x5 boot catch button is notoriously bad. I’ve had two fail and the father in law has had 2 fail. They fail due to water ingress. Once failed, there just failed, sometimes the problem is intermittent but will eventually fail if you drive in the rain a lot. Anyway, the button is factory sealed and plastic welded, you can’t get it apart with severely damaging the housing, second issue is, a replacement from BMW is costly and even worse than that, the button is integrated into the boot trim, so comes from BMW in plane grey colour so you also have to paint the piece. Total disaster and design flaw on behalf of BMW. your best bet is another button off the same colour car, but as there known to fail your “new”second hand button probably won’t last long. That’s all I’ve got I’m afraid, total nuisance for sure. Good luck anyway. Let me know how you get on.

Thanks for stopping by. The options are endless really, even more so if you’re handy with a welder, you could make any live axle fit really. Are you building one?

Glad to be of help. Enjoy. 👍🏻

Nice job. Glad the video helped. Seems to very very common issue with the X5. A free fix is always a nice fix. 👍🏻

Thanks for the comment Banxxy. Glad the video helped. All the best. Stay safe.

I would guess the spring should last a good few years now, so yeah, it will probably outlast the car. Glad the video helped. Thanks for comment.

Awesome comment. Thanks for the message. Glad the video helped and you fixed the problem, it’s always nice to hear from people it helped. Thanks again. As for the beer, you could also buy me a coffee instead. Just something new I’m playing with, but You really don’t have to. You can check the video or Channel description for more info. All the best and thanks again. 👍🏻

Hi John. Thanks for the comment. The project has been a labour of love and a real love hate project. It started off going really well, I had time and money but lately I have either, I’m hoping to get it finished this year. I’m using the motor and box from a Honda S2000, the F20C, should be enough to lite up the back tyres. You should try and pick one while you can. Thanks for watching.

@@noideabuilds9248 very nice that engine will put enough power down so I look forward to seeing it done. I always keep my eyes open it’s just having the money when one comes up though a neighbour has a mk1 with a lot of the bits with it that I would like to buy👍🏼

Yeah, the cost is the issue. Parts are very reasonable, but the initial outlay is steep these days, and probably only going to get worse, unless GB sports cars and motorsport tools starting banging out shells in the hundreds.

Lol. You should see the Escort build if you want that kind of video. That was supposed to be a quick fix and I actually did take the entire car apart, take the motor out, unbolt the tyres, remove the seats, took out all the electrics, removed all the dents and scratches, removed all the screws and knobs, and yes, re-installed the motor and washer pump, and every thing else and you’re right, problem was solved. 👍🏻 thanks for watching.

@@noideabuilds9248 I actually fixed the lock mechanism on mine from watching this. Seemed more difficult than it really was. Only issue was the little knobs inside the panels to keep them in place some broke so it didn’t stay in place right but other than that it was easy

Wow. Impressed with your Icelandic game. Long story short, 66 make the best fleeces, especially that one, it’s 10mm thick and good for -10, perfect for the garage. I lived in Iceland for 3 years, and some of home footage was filmed there and the garage stuff In the U.K. 👍🏻

Well I’m Icelandic I should know this stuff 🙂 If you have Instagram please give me a follow would love to show you what I have here in my garage in Iceland, Ford cosworth stuff :) David_smari

Very Interesting.... I’m not on insta. Drop me an email at [email protected] and we can chat. I’m currently in Iceland. 👌

Thanks MARIO. Any questions I’ll try to help.

Good question. I think they can be bent slighty, as long as the bar scribes an arc that’s as vertical as possible. It’s very hard to explain with words and with out a diagram. But check out this video, kzbin.info/www/bejne/rojPZHaabMqXna8 Hope that helps. Good luck.

@@noideabuilds9248 i suppose, i want to install such linkage to my jeep but there are a few things on the way, if the bars can be bend to S shape it could clear the engine