ALL can-am mavericks have a standard leftie-loosie bolt. If you cant get it out, it might be lock-tite on the threads. You might need a bigger impact. It might have been cross threaded. Not sure, but it is certainly regular right hand threads. Leftie Loosie to get it out.

Cut the end of the puller off, use teflon tape on the threads of the puller, tilt the machine on its side and pour water in the clutch, run the puller with teflon tape and hydraulically press the clutch off. Then clean the water up, use an ease out, and get the piece out of the crank. Probably going to need a little heat, that end must be loctite with a lot of red.

ALWAYS use loctite on the secondary bolt or its going to back out.

Pull the secondary bolt out, so you can pull the clutch back off, and use needle nose pliers from the inside to thread the bolt thru to the inside. If its bent or messed up, use a die grinder or something to grind the bolt off as low as you can get inside the clutch. Thread one of the other two holes and start using it.

@@AirdamClutches but what if the belt is still on the clutches can I still get the clutch off??

its about 40ft/lbs with loctite

tap the outer half with a rubber hammer, it will pop loose

Any luck finding one lol?

yes you can use a torsional spring or a flat bottom compression spring in these applications, can-am uses both and the stock secondary and helix will accept either.

only the 400 and 450. their primary bolt is reverse threads.

If you want to follow the BRP method for tightening you can, if you eyeball the forums you will see hundreds of people who have their stock secondary bolt back off and the secondary burn thru the cover. This way that i do them has never failed me once in a dozen years.

@@AirdamClutches so how do you get to torque that’s within spec? Just hammer on with the impact? Seems to be youd need the special holder tool if you want to use a torque wrench

not all can-am have torsional springs. You can watch some of my other install videos to see how to put together a secondary with a standard compression spring like the stock Maverick spring.

@@AirdamClutches thanks

@@AirdamClutches can I use the spring that does not have the tips on it but my helix and back of secondary

you find one let me know

@@R.N.GPerformancedid you guyes ever found a market

weld a nut to the end of it with a welder if you cant get another bolt tight enough to double nut the end and get it out. someone who uses red loctite on the stud, it becomes almost impossible and i have had to weld a nut to a stud before.

@@AirdamClutches I held a torch on there for a solid 10minutes and finally got it out. Thanks for replying!

every trailbloc built is the same with a few exceptions of what the spring seat color is, what color the throw limiter is, and some few versions have a 32mm nut rather than a 30mm nut. What more "up to date" are you specifically looking for?

@@AirdamClutches I was sold a clutch from canada and they said it would be pre set to my tires (29.5 ol2s)and it sadly is not do you have a phone where I could call you here is some info...I bought a cvtech clutch pre set for my 2019 can am outlander xmr 1000r on wot it slips the belt in low and high,inside the clutch was a 1016 spring and what appears to be 06 weights or 16 grams what I have figured so far.if I run it easy it tacks out at 8000 rpm and the bike is shifting really close to that in high range. i was told to add weights so I added two pennies the out come was ..no more 8000 rpm and the bike is shifting around 75-7600 rpms feels good..so I put it in low range to test because its going to be a strait mud machine.so I do a wot in mud and omg slippppp rev limiter bounce super bad still Id appreciate and pay for any over the phone help at this point my machine has been down for 4 weeks now and im so frustrated.

@@AirdamClutches I have had a few different buddies from other states im friends with have all said to me different set ups that they say are awesome but i cant afford to buy them all lol. So I am here for advise here is some set ups i was told to get ...1017 spring 22 gram weights ....a 300-1200 spring with 22 gram .... and this was for wheelies and mud ....1025 spring and 22 gram weights with a red secondary spring??? man any help or a quick lesson in cvtech tuning would be a tremendous help!

@@AirdamClutches im running a gates redline belt for the outlander rest is all stock with 29.5x10x14 all around

going to have to have a new belt now the last wot low gear test smoked it really fast

what do you need me to comment on? i hoped the video was self explanatory.

@@AirdamClutches where can one find the parts for the CVtech trail bloc clutches?

yes, if you use red loctite it can be almost impossible to get out by double-nut method. you will need to weld a nut to the end of the stud

it had our clutching and an EVO reflash and 32" tires.

add heat, the set screw has loctite on it. use a propane torch and get the set screw hot and you will smell the loctite melting

Thanks , got it off 🙌. Now I can't remove the primary clutch, impacting the clutch puller but no sign of breaking free , anything I can spray inside shaft hole ? Or heat clutch up etc. Thanks for your help

@@beasy4734 i have the same problme what did you do ?

@@bentleymench4643 what worked?

@@beasy4734 what worked ?

Guess they're not going to answer this question. I'm curious myself I have a CV tech coming.

There are many versions of the CVtech trailbloc clutch. We have it built to fit tons of different machines. Some use the metal counterweight and some do not. Some use an internal throw limiter and some do not. If your machine came with the counter weight, and throw limiter, YES you want to LEAVE THEM THERE. Do not remove the counterweight which is designed to keep the clutch inertia rolling at idle thru the odd firing order of the can-am engines. Removing this weight pronounces the engine harmonics and the result is more kick-back at idle which will shorten the life of the clutch and all the moving parts inside. Leave the counter weight on for all can-am ATV and SxS applications. Also do not remove the throw limiter, it is there for a reason as well.

if you pull the outer nut off, and the outer movable sheave of the clutch does not come off with spring pressure, you can tap the outer spider or governor cup to help pop the two tapers apart. just one whack should pop the whole outer half off.

yes these clutches lock together, that is the purpose of the hex on the end of the shaft and the hex cut in the center of the plate. when they lock together and you tighten the nut, the outer half is locked to the inner half