Certainly not the highest quality doors on the market

Oh, got you! Unfortunately I don't live near that house anymore, so I don't have easy access. Otherwise I would measure for you. From memory I would estimate 6-7 feet.

If I remember correctly, the bottom of this track went roughly to the floor with a small gap (maybe 1cm). Good luck!

One person can do it, but lifting the glass doors into place requires long arms and a strong back. Would recommend two people for that step. Everything else is easy to do one person.

The doors slide both directions, so there is no side that is the opening, both can be. The layout of this specific bathroom shown are not ideal due to the constraints of the subfloor and the piping.

@@findoutDIY Thank you for the reply Chris L.

Can you get them from bunnings in Australia?Because I Don't know

batteries are clearly shown on the new unit

@@beargillium2369 Thanks! I missed that.

Disclaimer- I am not a qualified electrician, but I don't think there is a limit to the number of lights. The limitations will come from the load put on the circuit (total from the 10 lights), length of the cable run, and the gauge of the wire. If you are putting in LED lights, I think you can safely assume 10 lights will be fine on 12 or 14 gauge wire, but you should consult the NEC or qualified electrician.

I tend to agree with you good sir. Simple is good in my opinion and have found cooking and living much more enjoyable outside the van.

I think you might able to find them here: www.deltashowerdoors.com/pages/part-finder

Thanks! Yes, they require silicon on both sides, inside and out of the metal frame against the wall.

The carriage bolt was installed just barely finger tight at 12:41. After the springs were installed I tightened the nut per the instructions. I think that was meant to allow the brackets to adjust a little as the springs were installed? I doubt it would really matter if you tightened the carriage bolt before installing the springs. As far as opening of the tension spring at 16:37, I don't recall it really mattering which way the hook at the end goes, up or down. These spring tensioners are kind of cheap (the torsion spring more commonly found with electric openers are much nice), but so far they have held up for a couple years with tenants using them to lift the door by hand.

Typically 2-wire thermostats are heat only. If you have air conditioning and heat, I would recommend a smart thermostat, as they will eventually save you money on your energy bill. However, in order to install and make use of a smart thermostat you will need to run a new thermostat wire (typically at least 4-wire with a 'C-wire') in place of the 2-wires, which can be relatively easy or difficult depending on your house and how far the wire run is and what it goes through. This video does not explain this process.

I think you are referring to the shower sealing? All of the plastic edging on the glass was included with the kit. I think you search "shower sealing" or "plastic edging shower" you should be able to find some different kinds for different measurements.

I think Econoline E150 is 6 cylinders. My old one had a straight 6 or online 6. If I was able to afford to fix it up more it could have been a monster

While pregnant too… thankful to have a partner who also happens to be handy

There will be a very small amount of water that escapes from the bottom of the door for a 'normal' adult shower, kind of a micro spray with a few droplets. I didn't find it to be too much, and I think you'd have to shell out a lot more cash to do much better. I did follow the recommended heights.

Thanks! If you are talking about the plastic parts in the top of the door, you will probably have to take the doors down again I think. I wouldn't want to risk the doors falling out of the track on top and come crashing down.

I guess not as these are approved and sold at major big box stores. I tried to look up the code, but couldn't find direct reference in 10 minutes. I assume they think there will be access in the roof/attic space.