What type of feeding issues? Is the fired round ejecting all the way? Please give me a little more info. Thank you!

@@mleeber the round isn’t ejecting all the way, I say about 3x out of 9 rounds the shell will get jammed. Sometimes I’m lucky and can shoot a whole mag no issue but most of the time it Jamming or getting stuck on the feeding ramp. Everything is clean and oiled up very well but still won’t work properly

Sounds like you have a good one and set it up for a successful first range trip! Although none of them are realy bad ones, they just need a little more attention. 9-Round mags are a great choice for this platform, even with the +3 mag bases we carry they are not too heavy when fully loaded. If you have not already upgraded the stock, grip and added an extended Handguard those are the inexpensive and easy choices that will make the gun handle even better. Welcome to the AR-12 club!

Yes, ideally "Hot" is 1350 or faster but I have made 1325s work. 1350s are still pretty scarce so I usually end up using 1325s which are usually available at walmart. The 1325s I get have plated shot but the payload does not matter.

Sorry for the delay, for some reason my gmail notifications have stopped. 3 inch shells will not fit well in the magazine so you need to stick with 2 3/4. For break-in I use the hottest shells I can find that are reasonably priced which typically are the 1325 winchesters that are plated shot.

No plans to do any of the sniper green color as a major production run but let me see if I can get a local cerakote shop to do it.

Thank you!!!

Thank you! I'll bring you one at the next match.

You're welcome!

Always use the light piston unless you are only going to use the gun for 1500+FPS ammunition. And I would always break it in with the light piston.

@@mleeber thank you!!

James, a comp usually serves one or both of two purposes, mitigation of recoil and reduction of muzzle rise. Oh and a third could be pissing off those around you at the range because they make shooting next to you a terrible experience with a much louder report and gasses vented to the sides :-). In the case of the VR80 the "New Style Short" comp pretty effectively keeps the muzzle from rising by venting most of the gasses behind the shot column upwards hence pushing down on the front of the barrel. "The New Style Long" also focuses most of the gas upwards but it also redirects a little more of the gases rearward at a 45 degree angle thant he short one does which reduces felt recoil a little as well as keeping the muzzle down. The Medium comp does a little of both; in the hands of most people the medium reduces muzzle rise and felt recoil about equally but is worse with muzzle rise than either the short or long. I personally run a short on my competition shotgun because I prefer shorter guns and the VR80 is so long anyway that the long just makes it too long to be manuverable. And, most folks seem to buy the medium for the "cool" look from what customers tell me. Hope that helps!

@mleeber ok. I'm glad you cleared up how they work. Yes, if the short comp helps in all what you said. I'll be getting that. I'm all about making sure shots stay on target and help with recoil and muzzle rise. After I break-in my VR80 I'll be adding that hogue but stock we talked about with a ether Jerry Miculek magnetic buffer or a kynshot hydraulic buffer. According to kynshot and rock island they recommend I break-in the shotgun 1st before adding the kynshot hydraulic buffer. Yes. I plan on oiling the CRAP out the piston and the bolt guide rails before and buring range days. Thank you for all your help here.

@mleeber good morning, mleeber. Thank you for your time here and information. Yes. If the Hogue stock and grip work in conjunction and work with commercial buffer tube on the VR80 and with the kynshot hydraulic buffer. Then I'll get the Hogue. I'll be looking for it online Friday for it. 😎🤘🍻

Thank you Rick!!!

Hi Rick! I assume the trigger group in your gun is stock. If so the first thing to check is the barrel seat in the receiver. Sometimes the barrels on these guns dont get secured as well as we like and they "ease" out of the receiver. Take the handguard off and there is an allen key set screw underneath the front of the upper receiver. There are acutally two in there, one is supposed to secure the other. They are metric, 4mm I think but don't hold me to that. Take the first one out, put the butstock of the shotgun on a table and loosen the remaining one while pushing the barrel towards the table and then retighten the set screw and add the second one. In every case that has been sent my way this has fixed the light strike. It is less about the speed or force of the hammer or firing pin and more about the primer being too far forward because the barrel is not seated properly. If that does not fix it shoot me an email with a photo. Thanks! Mark

125 is about average for me but this latest one took right at 132 including the last 12 to test the function. I have a couple GForces in stock but I have never broken one of them in. Granted it is getting so hard to find any shells with some velocity I expect it may start taking quite a bit more.

I can find them here in Texas but there are $18 a box and that's hard to break in with those

@@rogerray2545 When Texas runs out of Shotgun shells we are all in trouble!!! I grew up in Dallas and still consider myself a Texan but I only get back a couple times a year.

I have carried or reviewed most of the Turkish guns and while the fit and function is similar, the RIA offering is the most robust and best supported. Citadel and GeForce are not bad but do not have the accessories or backing that RIA and specifically the VR80/VR82 have.

@@mleeber Thank you very much for your info

The RIA extended handguards are similar to my Carbon fiber one they are just an inch or two shorter and heavier. Good option for those who dont want a $300 handguard on a $600 gun. I carry them in my webstore as well at A3GMunitions.com

Hi Dylan! It does not matter as long as they are 1350 FPS or so. Low Brass or High Brass does not matter nor does the payload, slug, buck or birdshot. I have never had problems with low brass even during break in but some of the low brass shells are a bigger pain to load in the mags bc the brasson the one you are inserting catches on the one in the mag which is why I developed the mag loaders.

You are very welcome!

The Winchester 1325 Steel shot is a good choice and inexpensive if you can find it. Walmart is the best place to look in my experience.

The factory short handguard does not have MLOK slots on the bottom. You can drill or dremel into it to attache a picatinny rail section or you can upgrade to an Extended Handguard. We carry the RIA versions as well as our own Carbon Fiber version. Thank you!

I cannot remember if there are MLOK slots on the bottom of the "Holes front and rear rail" handguard but I have some one the way and will take a look and follow up. Thanks!

@@mleeber there is one slot at the very end of the hand guard underneath it. Usually I don’t see fore grips placed that high up so I’m not sure if that was intended more for something like a flashlight?

Yeah that is what I was afraid of. The Holes Front and Rear only has the MLOK at the end. You could probably attach a Picatinny section using holes but it would not be an MLOK rail section that you would attach. I will check inventory but I want to say that some of the old keymod rails had screws that you could take the stantions off of and just use nuts but I will have to check.

@@mleeber thank you. I appreciate your reply.

What I usually use is the Winchester SuperX Steel 1325FPS load. The payload does not matter and I got a bunch of it at Walmart. It was the only reasonably priced stuff over 1200 FPS. As for choke, it does nto matter during break-in, I usually leave the modified choke in.

@@mleeber Thank you. I guess you just leave the light load part in for break in right ?

@@neilcastelli1315 Yes, I suggest you leave the light one in always unless you are ONLY going to run 1400FPS or faster shells.

I use Mobil 1 5w30 and Rem Oil exclusively. Rem Oil for colder weather and tight tolerance parts and Mobil 1 for hot weather and looser tolerances. I am not a fan of CLP.

I know a few folks in the northeast who use their VR80s exclusively for deer hunting in Slug only counties and all are running 1560FPS "Slugger" slugs using the havy piston.

@@mleeber ok.cool. ima try it out

If all you shoot is 1600 FPS I would put the heavy oiston in and leave it in. Thanks!!!

@@mleeber so it doesn't matter if it's not 3 inch shells. lol no one ever mentions that. the manual says only 3 inch for heavy piston but I was wondering like well im shooting hot stuff maybe the heavy one will work but I'm still using 2 3/4... I use 1400 to 1610

@@GunsNGames248 I think this is how the RIA instruction manual tried to make it "easy" for some of the newer/younger shooters who don't have any idea what FPS means. Few 3" shells are less than 1500FPS and when buying shells the 3" magnums are perceived as high velocity no matter what the payload is. 90% of the 2 3/4" loads are 1150-1300 FPS so it is a safe bet for a manufacturer to use shell length for shotgun shells as the determining factor and it makes it easy for the younger generation most of whom did not grow up with a mentor who taught them about firearms and ballistics.

@@mleeber right so I should be able to shoot anything 1450 and above using the heavy piston in 2 and 3/4