Rollsizing101 with the Roll-Sizer from Whitehead Specialty Engineering

In this video we will talk about why you want to roll-size your brass and look at some of the machines available to help you.

[@sf7708]

I recently purchased the Rollsizer. One thing I noticed immediately is I no longer have to lube my cases before sizing! Expensive purchase but it’s paying for itself by not having to separate practice ammo from match ammo. If you shoot a lot, one of these devices are worth the initial expense!

[@sf7708]

From a competitive shooters view, these machines make sense. There is nothing more frustrating than to pick up range brass and later have to throw it away because someone was shooting 9mm major!

[@sf7708]

I sort, clean, resize and prime before I load live rounds. I’ve found that you get all the problems you might suffer while loading, such as have a rock, 22 casing or 9mm case stuck in a 40 caliber case, out of the way. Takes a little longer, but I get much more consistent ammo this way. I have the 12 volt mini re-sizer that I use to re-size 9mm range brass. Great little machine. I recently tested a bunch of 9mm brass and it consistently kicks out approximately 1800 rounds per hour, which is perfect for the non-professional, weekend shooter. Since starting, I’ve had ZERO failures to feed! A little pricey, but I feel it’s paid for itself. I would recommend it to anyone that re-uses range brass for practice!

[@mleeber]

Jim, I too process all the brass before loading it and I store it in those squarish cat litter bins, they hold about 5 gallons of brass and stack far better than round buckets. I do not prime before the loading process but am actually about to start I think, it allows me to have all the sensors I want on the press and use a factory crimp die too if I load pre-primed brass. I agree that the DC rollsizer is the ticket for most folks and it is much quieter than the commercial unit. Thank you for your reommendation and sharing your process!

[@sf7708]

​@@mleeber, Try the de-priming, sizing and priming and let me know what you think. Been doing that for years and thinks it's the only way to go without issues of 380's, 40's and 22's being stuck in my cases in the middle of a run. BTW, great info on your website about the sizing units! I had the Case Pro 100 for years, but didn't use it very much because it was too time consuming to size large amounts of brass. Sold it, then bought the Mini Rollsizers when it became available and haven't looked back.

[@allenchrist3332]

The 9MM case is tapered so you are only sizing a portion of the base of the case as a cylinder. Not to SAAMI spec. There are roll sizers available with tapered sizing dies, this ai't it.

[@mleeber]

I am not familiar with any that roll a taper into the entire length of a tapered case. And even if such an animal existed caliber changes would be very expensive becasue you would have to change both mandrels that the brass is rolled between. You still have to run the case through a standard decapping/sizing die; all the rollsizer does is make sure the base of the case is in spec. 99.9 percent of the time you have a reloaded round fail to chamber it is because the base of the case is oversized and the shell holder on your press prevented the die from getting all the way down the case.

[@mleeber]

Good Day KZbin! I have had a couple folks contact me privately about brass that appears curved or crooked and thought I would repost the general topic here for the benefit of all who may be fighting this. THE ISSUE: "I just got done watching your Rollsizing 101 video I think some of my .223 and .308 brass has a banana shaped curve to it. This shows up as a runout as measured by a couple of different gauges. Doing a google search, it appears that the banana shape is caused by the brass on one side of the case being thinner than the opposite side. When the round is fired, the thinner side causes the case to bend ever so slightly into a banana shaped curve. What would it take die-wise or mandrel-wise to straighten these rifle cases?" MY RESPONSE: Thank you for the email. The first thing I would do is to make sure that what you think you see is what you are really seeing. Because brass is shiny and round light reflecting off the case can create optical illusions in some cases. Make sure the base of the case is clean and that the primer is not proud of the base of the case and set it on a flat surface or smooth bench. If you have a builder’s square or other item that has a perfect 90 degree angle set one side on the bench next to the case and gently move it towards the case until it just touches the case. Repeat the process around the case at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. If the case is truly banana shaped the middle will touch first on one of the sides and the top and bottom will touch first on the opposite side. What you may actually find is that the case just leans a little one way or the other which is caused by mis-alignment of the dies when creating the round and can usually be fixed by replacing the offending die or adjusting the timing on the press. In severe cases or with single stage presses the Boss that holds the die may be mis-aligned with the Ram in which case it is time for a new press. Unfortunately if the brass is truly thinner on one sideof the case body than the other, and it is enough for the case to come out of the chamber curved I would suggest not reusing that specific case. Ultimately a case that is so much thinner on one side is inevitably going to split or completely separate and represents a danger to the gun and the shooter. Thanks! Mark

[@btedd]

Maybe use a longer drop tube.

[@KindredGh0st]

Do you have any in stock at the moment? I can’t find it anywhere...

[@mleeber]

If you order Manual or DC from my website today you should have it by April 15th. It may be sooner. All my invenotry is on a ship in a container so it is definately on the way but Covid has the shipping industry, specifically US Customs, way behind.

[@p7094]

im interested but i want to know what size motor and the brand of gearbox and model number

[@rollsizer5623]

The motor and gearbox are specified by me as a mechanical engineer. the parts have been upgraded and will offer a very long life.

[@tangotwo4743]

Does this really size 9mm to sammi spec??

[@mleeber]

As the video says it only sizes the bottom 3rd of the case. This is the area that a traditional sizing die and shell holder combination fail to fully resize. The top 2/3rds of a case is easy to resize and there is no interference from the shell holder. As I indicate in the video you must still run the case through a sizing die especially for tapered cases like the 9mm.

[@rollsizer5623]

Yes it does, the rollsizer.com unit brings the base back to a mid range SAAMI spec which is where the factory ammunition is. The normal sizing dies will do the rest but the final case shape is close to perfect.