Not needing approval was your BEST decision 😂❤️

I can argue that Switch was designed as a console first. What is the best mode regarding performance? TV mode, if it were a handheld it would run most of the games much better in handheld mode which is not the case. The fact that we all have pretty good arguments about Switch being designed as either, home consoles or handheld, gives the Switch the title of a Hybrid and should be in a separate category from now on.

The Build Montage discord community is so awesome :)

you made a a mistake regarding the gyoe on splatoon. you can use the gyro for up and down but also for left and right. the stick was limited to only left and right, no the gyro. Theire is another control scheme made by a single developer called jibbsmart, that is based on how the rightstick on splatoon limited motion to the x axis. This control scheme is called flick stick. and it takes the concept of limiting rightstick motion to the x axis a bit furter. now it changes the way your camera or charachter is facing. if you flick to the right your charachter instanly turens 90 degrees to your right. if you flick the stick down you instanly turn 180 degrres.. the rightstick is locked to only the x axis. If you flick the stick forward then you can sweep the stick on the outer edge to smoothly turn. jibbsmar has made a text based editor to use flick stick in any pc game (aslong as it has raw mouse input). steam and rewasd also both have theire own version of flick stick. The problem in most console games is that the gyro uses simulated rightstick gyro instead of mouse like gyro. gyro should act like a mouse. if you move the controlller faster then the limited maximum turn speed of the game then the camera wil slow down. On oc most games dont allwo for mixed inputs. so you can use a mouse and a controller at the same time. to get around that you can do 3 things 1 make a modeshift when you pull the leeft trigger. on this modeshift layer you use all keyboard mapppings and mouse to gyro.. when you release the trigger you shift back to the gamepad layer 2 map keyboard and mosue controls to the gamepad. but you loose haptics and analog movent. 3 map gyro to rightstick. you will have all gamepad features but the gyro will have a minimum and maximum turn speed and also deadzones. the only good stick to gyro translation is the one used by the xim nexus controller. but that controller is trained for every single game it has a config for. the software tries to remove the deadzones and make the aim curve linear by applying different filters. it is different for each game. on steam you have to try to mathch the deadzones yourself.

sorry to say but the gyro is not among the best. i dont know if you know the difference between rightstick simulated gyro or mouse like gyro. this is based on rightstick aiming. so it has a minimum and maximum turn speed. wich means that if you move the controller to fast the camera will respond slower. it also has a small deadzone. i can literally turn the controller 90 degrees reall slow and the camera will not move an inch. that is a deadgiveway of it being analog gyro instead of displacement / mouse like gyro. even on pc you cant get mouse like gyro by using the gyro as mouse. it still uses the ingame gyro controls to make it work. the only thing you can do is shift to another layer on left trigger full pull to get to a keyboard and mouse layer/ or go full keyboard and mouse gyro. The remake of horizon zero dawn on console also has right stick simulated gyro. but it is alot better because theire is no weird acceleration. and on pc i can just use the ingame build ingyro look function to map it to gyro as mouse beta (not the normal mouse beta). because the game also does not support mixed input. but when you map the gyro look function to mouse beta it does work.

I never thought I'd watch a 25 minute video about woodworking, but here I am :) Im happy that you decided to record and share

Would you be willing to email a copy of your dimensions?

If that works out, you need to sell that as a flat pack

I have an entire kit for an sb4000, just not a box to put it in

You could of also built the ports as a solid port with a flare at the end with a templet to make more then one all you needs a heat gun with a templet. Heat up the pip pvc pipe and push down on the templet to create the flare.😉 if you change the woofer and plate amp you can also out perform the svs. Using a 1000w rms car audio woofer with a mega roll surround and a Daytona audio dsp 1200w plate amplifier this allows you to tune the sound to your taste of perfection to your ears.🫡😉👌👍✌️💯 sweat build the size spec most of took a while. I couldn't find measurements any were online about the boxes. This was year ago. Everything else was obtainable.💯🫡👌👍✌️

If I were to replicate and build a PB-3000 clone, I would take the extra time to build in the amp plate in a separate chamber in the enclosure. I am always worried with plate amps that has their electronics just bare into the pressure chamber. I like this video and build though, very professionally made.

Just getting around to looking at comparisons. Looks like they got rid of the haze and saturated the colors more. I think Elma is the Xenoblade 2 DLC version, and that's why she looks more anime. Maybe they were trying to bring the series a little more in line in terms of art direction. I started X on Wii U, but I never got very far. Wish I had played it then. My Wii U died, and I had to buy a new one; so I dont have the patch that sped up loading times anymore. Definitely picking it up again and playing through this time. I will always lament the lack of a gamepad screen, though 😢 Edit: Just got to the part where you looked up the XC2 version. Very clearly did not pull that one for the remaster 😅. Maybe they used it to find a middle point *shrug*

2017 Nintendo on leaks: “oh yeah, you leak Xenoblade X?! don’t worry, I will throw that in the bag of almost-forgotten stuff so that not even the leaker remembers to have leak the game” 😂

Looks awesome! I’m planning to do the same project. Can you share some information, such as dimensions and material thickness, etc.?

That’s a great comparison! What is your viewing distance from the 120.5" screen with a 16:9 aspect ratio?

One of my worst nightmares was kind of like yours, Juice. Mine was the Ring girl, though, lol. What's worse is that my girlfriend woke me up and was leaning in close when I opened my eyes (she had long, dark hair). I nearly jumped through the wall trying to get away until I fully woke up 😅 I eventually started writing down everything I could remember about my nightmares, though, just because they were interesting stories. Some didn't even have a thing in them to be afraid of. Just a feeling that I desperately needed to escape something. Fun times 😆

MadVR just came out with their new, low cost ($4,995) Envy Core video processor that has patent pending non-linear stretch technology (like their more expensive units) that expands scope movies vertically to fill more of the 16:9 screen. It reduces the height of the upper and lower horizontal bars by about 50% so more screen covered. Just a thought for the next home theater toy🙂

1:08:34 The central map is an almost exact copy of LttP, people have made map overlays and it’s almost identical. Like retro said multiple times, it’s only the border of the new extended area that’s different plus a few expected environmental differences due to mechanics etc

I'm glad to hear you ended up liking EoW. I didn’t check out any reviews going in and absolutely loved what I found. Even the parts of the map that line up with ALttP look like they went through the BotW time skip treatment. That also makes sense for the new Zelda and Link. I love watching enemies have that moment of confusion when they swing at an echo as it disappears and reappears behind them. Good attention to detail. Speaking on the music, I love music but don't normally notice it a ton when playing through a game. That hasn't been the case here in that I've actually noticed it quite a bit. I love that they took Zelda's Lullaby and made an adventure-y version. Great game all around to me.

Lol I actually liked Rebel Moon Director’s Cut😅

It's amazing how many movies are not 2.35:1. I'm so delighted I just got a 16:9 and that's not even considering sports. But yea the solution is just get the biggest screen you can fit with a bias towards 16:9 and then use masking.

Sad sack crew of Nintendo adult fans talking about real console gaming 😂

You gotta talk faster if you want audience retention. I’m watching at 2x speed and you’re still talking slow. Have to be more dynamic. Hope you make it on KZbin. Do a video on movies you like in atmos

Leaning hard on October. Idt brothership in Nov matters. If it’s a backward compat game. Sales at that moment won’t matter as the build will still come if switch 2 can play. Plus it’s Mario, I think it will sell well enough either way

Great video, nice homecinema. I absolutely agree with you abaut your 16:9 screen. This makes much more sense for me.

This reminded me that years ago i made an outdoor "drive in" screen out of 4 x 4s and plywood and made it approximately a 2.00:1 aspect ratio. I kinda liked it even though nothing filled the screen completely. It was sort of a good compromise and i figured since im dragging a projector to the back yard anyway it wouldnt be much trouble to adjust the zoom based on the content each time

Great video. So for most prople who choose a scope screen just put up with dvd or blu ray menus (and streaming service menus) that arent visible on the screen before the movie starts? And then they zoom down to fit a 1.85:1 movie? All this time i thought it required an anamorphic lense and a 20k projector. But now i realize the limg throw epson promectors ive had could accomplish this. Or if you had one of the so-called lifestyle projectors thats not ceiling mounted you could just move it closer or farther depending on what you want to watch. I have a 16x9 130" screen that i made eith curtains on each side. If i narrowed or eliminated the curtains a scope screen becomes a possibility. And you dont have to be wealthy to make it happen (i guess you just have to be willing to manually adjust the zoom lens fairly often lol).

Awesome video! Probably the most thorough video on YT that breaks it all down with example and real thoughts on pros and cons of both. 16x9 I think is the best option overall for most people that do not have a video processor. When you get into high end video processors, it changes things. Also - Silver Ticket is all most people need IMO. I would need to see a side-by-side, but I find it hard to believe that a screen that is 3,4,5x the cost over a ST makes a real difference?

I never comment on anything, but wanted to give you a shout out! Be proud of what you have and the work you've put into it. Looks like a great setup, and if you're happy with it that's all that matters. It's good you're humble throughout all of it, but don't downplay what you've got... who cares if you didn't spend more money. Enjoy the setup and hope it gets lots of use!

Out of curiosity, how much do you think you spent on all your DVD/BluRay/4k disc's? Ive been collecting for like 25 years, and i still have a lot of disc's, yet unfortunately don't use them any longer. Must have spent well over $10k on disc's, mainly movies, was smart when I bought disc's, never bought a movie unless it was on sale or discounted, for the most part.

quick question. Do u buy a blurry or 4k disc if you already own the DVD? Just wondering, I had all DVD's a long time ago, then I started to upgrade to Blu-Ray, bought about 40 disc's and then Netflix and the other streamers got popular and I use PLEX to stream content to, well everywhere. You have a great set up. Always wanted a scope screen, the thing is, not all movies are 2.39:1, most are, but not all. And now movies like Maverick and Oppenheimer use both 16:9 and 2.39:1 throughout the film. Not seeing the bars is a huge plus, good work! I like how you added up all your gear costs, thats was interesting. I wanted to do that with my content, but then again I probably dont want to know how much ive spent on movies over the years. lol

Scope

Thanks for this video as it reinforces my decision to go with a 16x9. A good free online tool to use is on Audio Advice website where you can add your projector model, room dimensions, sitting distance etc. to sort of visualize what you'll get. After debating on which way to go, my next upgrade is still 16x9 and create my own masking panels. I have visited a well known dealer personally and the salesperson recommended 16x9 as well even though they tend to push for the scope screens. If I could afford a MadVR and anamorphic lens I would definitely consider a scope screen. Also take in consideration how hard it is to sell a projection screen as it has the worst resale value I've seen on HT gear and think what's the biggest size you can go for now so that you don't pay the consequences later!!

I have a 16.9 100 inch screen what I do to get a scope effect is over project at 120 inch and with a pull down screen i adjust it for a 100 inch display seems to work for me regards Trevor

The projector is 16:9. Unless you’re using an anamorphic lens you’re giving up something going with 2.35. Scope is cool… but ultimately a compromise. Just deal with the black bars.

Went with 16:9 just because thats how I'd be able to get the biggest screen in my room.

Paint the entire wall in project screen paint.

As always, your room dictates what is possible. I’m with you, in that, I wanted the largest “canvas” possible (in terms of overall square footage of screen on the wall). I also really enjoy the immersion of the IMAX framing. What I ended up with was a 135” 16:9 screen (borderless), which is essentially side wall-to-side wall wide in my room and gives me the maximum height I can get. But, most movies are 2.4:1-ish (scope), and I hate the grey bars. So, I have a cabinet that runs the full width of the front wall and it goes up to the base of the screen. This allowed me to make and install a pivoting acoustically transparent masking panel that I leave up most of the time, but that I can pivot down for content that takes advantage of the 16:9 aspect ratio. I use my JVC lens memory to shift the screen up and down, that way I always have the top of the picture at the top of the screen (and only have to mask the lower section). Simple, and it looks and works great. Best of both options. :-) Great video.

For me.. projectors are getting brighter, and better contrast. If I can control the light in the room, creating the largest picture available. Grey bars with changing aspect does not bother me, as I will always have the largest picture possible. It will only look BETTER over time with newer projectors, and the bars will become more and more invisible with the dark levels. Watch a lot of KZbin and 16x9 content, its a no brainer for me. Great movies like Maverick switch aspect when the camera and director know it adds more immersive content. Smaller screen area will never add to my experience.

I went with 16.9 because of how aspect ratios can change within a movie and I also watch shows and stream. Also with the size of my room and throw distance, projector, and my faux wall build it worked best for me.

Thanks for taking the time to make and post the video! I would not have thought of this solution.

For my next setup, I'll just do what I've done before. Buy the biggest screen the room and projector will accommodate when fully zoomed out - In this case, a 135" sheet of painted MDF board. Surround it with black material and black side curtains that mask the sides when needed. Then just zoom the picture in with a bit of lens-shift for 1:78, 1:85, 1:66, 1:33 or whatever - Constant Image Height, Just like a proper cinema! It just BAFFLES me why more people don't think to do this!!!

To me, three things drove this decision. The content you watch, the room dimensions, and third is ‘what compromises you can live with most. First, content. If you’re going to watch lots of 16:9 content then that will certainly be a priority. You just have to live w the compromise that you will have black bars on most of your movie content (I said most, not all). If you’re strictly a movie person (like me). I prefer to have the largest scope area I can have so I try to maximize the entire width of my room regardless of screen choice. Then after I’ve decided on my width, I have to decide if my PJ can handle the light demands of the 16:9 or the scope screen. I dislike black bars on top and bottom of all movies but I can see liking the larger 16:9 image and not lose any size in my scope if I start off w my widest image to begin with.

I wonder when Sony starts turning these into Amiibo 😅

I forgot to point this out in the video, but everything I talked about comes after you figured out the throw distance and light output of your projector, to know what your options are for your maximum screen size. And bigger is not always better, because if you don't have the appropriate light output, you're going to have bad contrast and dynamic range, which isn't going to be worth the sacrifice to have a wall filling sized screen, IMO.

When it comes to this, the proper comparison is same height screens. Ignoring the room entirely, just looking at screens. Obviously a 120 inch 16:9 that is the same width as a 21:9 113 inch is better - it's physically larger and you get the same size (small) 21.9 image in the center of it. However, a 21:9 screen that's as tall as the 16:9 is *considerably* larger, and for many people wall height is the limiting factor rather than width. Even so, for most people buying 16:9 makes sense because all projectors are 16:9 native. You have to be a bit of an enthusiast to deal with anamorphic lenses and long throw projectors. Some projectors, like my UST projector, has no 21:9 option at all so I have a 120 inch 16:9. But a 150+ inch 21:9 is what I'd want to have. Because to me the widescreen movies are my priority, so I want widescreen to be the biggest and most immersive. 16:9 content could have black bars and I'd be more than fine with it. Unfortunately, there are precious few 21:9 native devices out there, though some seem to be coming thanks to Microsoft Teams of all things. But yeah, comparing screen you have to compare them at the same height. And same height, 21:9 is vastly superior. In your room same height wasn't an option, since your front wall is too narrow. But if you had the width, a 21:9 the same height as the 120 16:9 would be vastly superior.

Decision is easy for me as I bought a 16x9 which covers that aspect ratio but then I utilize top and bottom screen masking for when I want to watch 2:39:1 movies. Don’t go with a 2:39:1 screen and then mask the sides to a 16x9 because then your overall screen square area would be less than what I suggested first. Look up screen masking, pay a pretty penny for it, or get creative to save on the cost, looks amazing, best of both worlds.

Get the biggest 2.35:1 thin framed screen your room can handle, add in a Lumagen video processor and you’re laughing.