Thank you for watching and no, I do not use any type of sealer. Off gassing of the wood is a problem and I have tried some sealers but found no benefit. The process I describe in the video has proven to work the best.

Thank you

@@jjwpod thank you

My web site is UrbanWoodCreations.com and that will take you to my Etsy store which shows all my available work.

Thank you for your comments. I actually do use gloves but didn’t in the video. Some people conflate 2 part epoxy and polyester resin. You may know there is a huge difference between them. I do use the two part epoxy which has much less health concerns.

No, I do not use any sealer. The three coats the first day seals the wood. Also, any sealer used first does not let the color and grain show thru as well. Thanks for watching.

I have. What did you have in mind?

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks so much. Hope it was helpful.

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Generally a torch will get rid of the bubbles. However, I do take three days to finish and use multiple coats and sand between 3 coats and the next and fill any imperfections. Then the two finish coats are near perfect?

@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm By fish-eyes, I mean small areas where the resin wants to not cover. I brush it on, but then bare areas appear as something on the surface is repelling the resin. Maybe your resin is not prone to doing this. Maybe I am contaminating the surface with something. I thought an initial coating of shellac might solve it.

@@balahmay Sounds like you have something on the wood. Shellac may work but I tend to think, considering your comment, it is not the epoxy. I use Alumalite Quick Coat. Sealing the wood with Shellac, while it would work, does not let the epoxy sink in and and bring out a much richer color than the shellac does.

So you can put water and cut flowers in them. Also it restricts wood movement should a piece end up in a much dryer or wetter climate.

@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm are you applying over sanding sealer or oil for these or depends on the piece?

No sanding sealer or other finish. I tried that but straight on with epoxy brings our color best in my opinion.

@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm does it do a decent job hding tear out? filling the gaps? didnt see any on your pieces.

@@dionlee3920 no not really, in most cases it will amplify it.

Not sure what you mean but fingers are ok. ???

In a word - yes. The Moulthroups work is what inspired me to get into turning about 13 years ago. While in Atlanta and visiting the Signature Gallery my wife bought me one of Phillip’s pieces. I contacted Philip and let him know his work had inspired me to get into turning and asked if we could meet. He could not have been nicer and invited me to visit his shop. Philip showed me all of the areas of his shop and answered all questions. As i wanted to get into the epoxy we discussed that in detail and he was most helpful down to what RPM they needed to rotate. Turns out we graduated from high school the same year from Atlanta area schools and were going to our 50th reunion that summer.

@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm hi there. Thanks for replying. I am also a very abled turner out here in South Africa. More into spindle turning these days. I realy do admire the turnings of the moulthrop family. Thanks for your reply. Highly appreciated. Repects to you guys.

Well Adnan you are officially the most distant person to comment on any of my videos! Also, here is my web site: urbanwoodcreations.com Please let me know if you also have a web site, I would love to see your work.

Thanks for your comment. I do not have plans for the “drying rig”. The key is getting the rotations to between 8 to 10.

Thank you! Glad to help.

Neville - thanks for watching and for your kind comment. I’m glad you found some helpful information. Also, thanks for the Greetings from down under! I send Greetings and Thanks from Tampa, Florida!

Thank you David! Glad to be of help.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Jennifer, sorry but I do not sell them. Thanks for watching and for your question.

The motor is an old fan motor 1750 rpm and I think a 1/4hp. There are two 2” to 19” pulleys and the final RPM is 8.

@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm thank you for the quick reply. I think you are an awesome Woodturner’s. What are you using for the deep hollows?

do you know what happen to steven ogle

NO! What?!?!

I thought you knew something had happened to him so I called him. He is fine but has taken another full time job and has not had the time to produce his great videos.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Here you go, hope this helps. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqqxXoWQhLV1aq8

Balke - thank you so much for your comments. The two part epoxy I use is oderless and safe. Polyester resin on the other hand would need a respirator and fast moving ventilation.

Thanks! They work for me.

Thank you! Not sure I could afford the liability insurance if I were selling them!

Thank you

The application is by hand and then moved to a shaft that is rotating…….quickly! Too difficult and messy to apply the epoxy while rotating.

Sorry for the late reply - once the epoxy has cured I turn the tenon off and sand the bottom and place them upside down and apply a coat of CA glue then the epoxy. The CA seals it so only one coat of epoxy needed.

What is your total process? How many coats? No, I do not use anything except the epoxy.

Thank you.

Are you getting into the DA and polishing right after the epoxy has set up? It is best to let it cure for a couple of weeks before you start wet sanding etc. I assume, having been in the automotive body business, you did the wet sanding from 800 grit to 5000 grit and then used the compounds and polishes. If you have gone thru all these step and not let it cure for 2 to 3 weeks, that may be the missing link.

@@JohnWilliams-oq5nm I did exactly what you state ---- but I only let it set for five days. I actually went up to 12000 grit. Thanks, I will wait for more time and then proceed. I’ve been turning for 61 years and love the resin. I appreciate you replying to my question!!

Are you asking how to turn a vase into a lamp?