Fortunately, the Transalp 600 doesn't suffer the countershaft problem of the 650 and 700, but it still can wear on the long term due to high mileage or heavy abuse. So putting a larger sprocket is definitely a good idea to prolonge the life of the axle.

@@coastrider8881 Well it does, it is not different, earliest models from the 600 family had it even worse because had less splines. Even Africas are not without this problem. Personally I don't think Japanese engineers were completely stupid. It looks like for the long distance tourer they wanted easy sprocket change without big breaker bar. BUT the retainer ring has to be changed as well and ideally the splines cleaned and lubed. Not a greatest design though, I agree.

The thing is 90' bikes usually had odometers that only read till 99.999kms/miles. I still see Transalps 600 or 650 that are being sold with "only" 30 or 40K kilometers despite having had half a dozen of owners. Yeaaaahhh, rrrright, a 20+ years bike that was only used for 1.500kms every year all his life... I ride that in less than a month. The countershat in the Transalp 600 was perfectly fine, but because these bikes are extremely reliable, most of them are well over 100K or even 200K and still look good and work amazingly fine, but the wear on some parts is still going on. Some years ago I bought a Honda CB 500 (PC32), the most reliable bike ever, it was anounced as having 80.000kms, but the bike looked brand new. It was very cheap, so I took a train and rode it home. After tracking all its history with old MOT's and previous owners, in reality the bike had 280.000kms and spent most of his life as a courier bike in a big city. The bike still looked in perfect condition and was mechanically perfect, so I wasn't even mad. One of the best purchase of my life. I did 50.000kms more on it and only sold it because I was bored and wanted something else. A few years later I bought another one with 110.000kms and sold it with 140.000kms. Only basic maintenance. I could have said the bike was only 40K when selling it, because it looked in perfect condition, but I'm an honest person. My rule of thumb is a bike is used for at least 5.000kms per year, except in very cold countries where I estimate 3.000kms (750kms per month for 4 good weather months). Maybe it's different for a 40.000€ Ducati, but nobody buys a Transalp to keep it in a warm garage and just admire it everyday whithout using it.

If several viewers are interested I'll publish a summary video of the transmission kit replacement.

I second this!

Thanks mate! On the 700 you can use the side stand from a 650, which is slightly longer. It is what I have on my Transalp 700 right now. For the 650 you need to modify the side stand by cutting it in half and welding a thread in one side and a nut in the other. Then with another nut you have an adjustable side stand. I don't know if there's side stands from different bikes that would fit. Cheers!

Hola, la bujías son muy fáciles de cambiar en la 700, están muy a mano y solo lleva una por cilindro. En la que si es difícil es en la 650, que lleva dos por cilindro y una del cilindro delantero es bastante difícil de acceder. Saludos.

​@@coastrider8881 claro no tan facil una de ellas .... vi q hay q sacar o mover un poco el radiador para acceder a ella osea la del lado derecho digamos... nunca lo hice..... ya veo q tenes un truco para hacerlp sin sacar nada ... cualq cosa avisame antes de desarmarla ...jaja felicitaciones de nuevo por el entorno bien luminoso y la explicacion

Si, pero eso es en la 650, en la 700 no hace falta. Cual es la tuya?

700 abs

La 700 solo tiene una bujía por cilindro, no recuerdo haber tenido ninguna complicaciones para cambiarlas. Las dos están accesibles por los laterales. Obviamente, en el lado derecho tendrás que quitar la tapa lateral, pero no es algo complicado.

Precisamente tengo un vídeo sobre el cubrecarter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGfahGmPjr9_m5Isi=c2BM-59CcI2LXMNR

Hi there! It's a Honda XL700V Transalp, there's plenty of videos about it in my channel, cheers!

@@coastrider8881 sweet I'll go and explore!!

Hey there! It's a Honda XL700V Transalp, like the 650 it was only sold in Europe and few other places. I recently published a video about the prep I did to it for a travel to Africa: kzbin.info/www/bejne/onmoe5mQbadqa9k

Also if you Google "Transalp 700" you'll see all the liveries available and some nice preps.

@@coastrider8881 thank you , good looking ride. Maybe they would have sold more here in the USA if they sold that one. Alomost looks NORDEN like. Is the color stock ?

@@adambanks4767 Yes, the color is stock, but to be honest I like more the black or grey ones. Due to emission laws, it was only produced from 2008 to 2013. The 650 which is even better for offroad, was produced in Europe (Italy / Spain) from 2000 to 2008.

@@coastrider8881 I think we only got a 600 here. Not for long though. They were probably 10 to 15 ahead. At the time not popular.

Thanks mate! Appreciated!

I had super heavy duty before, now I have regular thickness tube due to less weight and still no issues in ~60hrs😅

I guess we've both been very lucky. What type of terrain do you usually ride on? With that low pressures, in my area your wheels would look square instead of round 😂😂

@@coastrider8881 you can see my videos, I ride everywhere, rivers, rocks, forest, etc. But I don't usualy ride fast, so I rarerly hit hidden rocks over 50km/h...

Gracias! Pues en teoría tienes razón, se supone que poco harían frente a clavos y tornillos, pero en la práctica en muchas ocasiones he cruzado por vertederos ilegales a la salida de pueblos en Marruecos, con muchos clavos, cristales, etc, y ningún problema. En la foto de la miniatura es la moto de un amigo al que se le clavó una "púa" de un arbusto con pinchos que abundan en el desierto marroquí. Con una cámara reforzada no hubiera podido atravesar el espesor de la cámara. Aparte de los pinchazos, uso las cámaras reforzadas porque protegen bastante de llantazos. El conjunto cámara reforzada + neumático duro resulta tan grueso que incluso puedes circular con la rueda pinchada si tienes cuidado.

If you already have the tank you can try it. I thing the fixing points on the frame are the same, but not sure how the seat will fit. If not, a RS tank with close to 21 liters is plenty. My bike had a consumption of around 4l/100km, so the tank gave 500kms range, but I usually put the RSE tank with 17 liters to make the bike lighter. That's over 400kms of range, more than enough for a full day of offroad travel. Nowadays there's not many places whithout a fuel station.

@@coastrider8881 you are right we dont life on desert but my fuel tank is bent and ,ugly as hell that's way thinking about change it

If you have a leak there, you should be able to see it between the two cylinders. Also it's usually very small leaks, not enough to clearly see a difference in the overflow tank.

I don't know, but the seat, rear fender and side panels are also different, so maybe you'll have to replace a lot of things to make it fit. The RSE tank have the same capacity has the R, 17 liters, and the RS have close to 21 liters. So not worth putting a R tank.

Hard to diagnose whithout driving the bike. Do you have the stock handlebar with his counterweights? Is the rear tire in good condition and not squared? Is it engine vibrations or only when driving at certain speed?

@@coastrider8881 Thank you for reply. Rear tire is good condition, handlebars are original, without counterweights. I ve noticed handlebars vibrates online when Im not holding them and also i think It does when i put my rear case. But when i dismantle my case the vibratios are not so obvious.

I like a more minimalistic approach. Also I think the low fat tires should be shown, and not covered by gigantic fenders. But it's just a question of different tastes. The backrest was in bad condition, severely bent and badly straithtened and welded by the previous owner. I gave it for free.

With a tooth at the rear you get aproximately a third of the results of a tooth in the front, so not a big difference but still noticeable. On my 650 I put a tooth more in the rear to get better overtakes on mountain roads, and also shorter gears when offroading while being able to still keep a good speed on highways. The good thing about replacing the front sprocket is that it's easy and fast to do, so you can have two sprockets for a long travel where you have days of long highway stretches followed by offroad days. Changing the front sprocket only requires a few minutes.

Thanks for watching!

If you saw some wear on the splines, you should put a superpinion asap, as once the wear starts, it goes exponientally faster. Removing the cat is not legal in several europeans countries, but most authorities wouldn't even realise it's missing, and if you need to pass a test you can put stock headers back in a few minutes. The diference whithout is really noticeable. I also had the optional taller Honda screen. It's better than any aftermarket one, but not available anymore. Cheers!

Hi there! I have a taller handlebar originally designed for a quad. The angles and comfort are similar to the stock one, but taller. I also have SW-Motech footpegs set on a lower position than the stock ones, so I have more room for my legs when sitting, and better balance and control when standing up while offroading. There's videos about these mods on my channel. Cheers!

@@coastrider8881 Thank you for the answer! Cheers

I'm glad it was useful, cheers!

C'est vraiment utile!

South of Europe! 😜

@@coastrider8881 Europe is a big country, I'm from Italy (Varese) and you ?

Definitely! I've had both, the RS and RSE, but always prefered the RS for the lighter weight, mechanical simplicity and 5mm more of suspension travel. Mines always started very easily with the kickstarter. One kick in summer and when hot, two kicks early in the morning in winter, that's it.

@@coastrider8881 Thanks for replying. Once I refresh the carb and get an extended idle mixture screw mine will do the same. I've never had a problem kicking over big singles and starter clutches and batteries are always delicate. Not the kind of bike to easily bump start! 😆 I've convinced my two best friends to buy one also. Life is good 🙏

@@MusicisLoveADZ Nice, you're going to have a lot of fun! Maybe someday I'll publish a video about how I adapted a full front from a Husqvarna 450 with a nice Marzocchi Shiver fork. 300mm of suspension travel baby!

@@coastrider8881 Good morning. Please publish that video! Good suspension is everything and would make the big DR so versatile...

Enjoy your amazing bike!

You're welcome!

Hi mate! The Marauder exhaust is made in one piece, so you either replace it wih a full dedicated system, or you cut the oem one to add an aftermarket muffler. In both options you'll definitely not gaining power, but maybe you can reduce weight and get a different sound from the exhaust. Cheers!

@@coastrider8881 good deal. thanks for the info chief!

W żadnym nowym motocyklu nie ma smaru pomiędzy zębatką a osią. Możesz sprawdzić.

Hi there. I just checked the link and it works fine for me. It's the main page of KKbike. You can then select your specific bike model. Cheers.

I would never put a K&N on an enduro bike except if it's for Supermoto/Street use, but on the Transalp 650 it's totally different. The airbox is very well designed, very large area, and uses the glovebox under the seat as a prechamber. The air crosses the filter with very low speed and pressure, unlike my DR 650 that has an airbox a lot smaller with a foam oiled airfilter which requires very frequent cleaning. I opened my Transalp 650 engine to replace the countershaft when the engine had 100.000kms, it had a K&N airfilter for the previous 80.000kms, several offroad travels to Morocco, and a lot of offroad in my area which is pretty dry and dusty. Everything looked brand new, pistons, cylinders, valves seats, not a single scratch. But again, I wouldn't put a K&N on my DR 650, but I'll definitely put one on any Transalp 650, even for hard offroad in the desert.

Hi there! Thank you very much! In fact it's even easier and faster on the 650, as you don't need to take out the side fairings. Also there is even less dirt going inside the airbox, as it uses the glovebox under the seat as a prechamber. I wish I had a 650 at hand to show it, but I will do a video about it as soon as I get one!

@@coastrider8881 Am the lucky owner of a TA 650/2005 & a Crosstourer DCT/2019. My 650 just clocked 110000km & been in my ownership for 12good year. Do most of My riding in arctic climates of Scandinavia… Great bike. Looking forward to Your future 650 footage. The Power Of Dreams ❤️

@@Alexanderpaal67 Amazing bikes and beautiful area to enjoy riding, although very cold! 😂😂

Thanks mate, you'll certainly enjoy it!

I've seen in the pictures that the DNA covers more surface, but the cotton folds are not as deep as in the K&N, so not sure which one have a bigger effective area. Visually I have noticed that the paper and cotton airfilters with deeper folds seems also to retain better the dirt, but maybe it's just a perception. The filter cost me 75€ on Ebay, which is the same price as the DNA. I mainly choose the K&N because I already had good experiences with it on other bikes, but maybe in the future I'll try the DNA. Cheers!

Thanks a lot mate! More videos coming soon, cheers!

Thank you very much! I totally forgot to weight the bars before fitting them 😂😂 Actually on family vacations, more videos coming soon! Cheers mate!

Cheers!

Hi there, I'm talking about old Africa Twins pre-2005. But most of them only need the superpinion if the countershaft have too much wear due to high mileage. The main problem is with old Transalps 650 and 700, in which the countershaft splines get worn out a lot faster due to poor design or bad quality.

That would be nice, cheers!

Indeed they are, cheers!

Yep, they're very good. With similar pattern I've tried on my Transalps the Metzeler Enduro 3 Sahara, the Heidenau K60, and these Mitas E07+. Till now the Mitas are my favourite for all kind of terrain. But they are also the most difficult to mount on the rim. Cheers!

Nope, it's a fresh video

Thanks for the tip! Cheers!

A stock 15 teeth with a 49 teeth rear sprocket.

They are both good bikes. 650 is better for offroad and roads in bad conditions, 700 is more powerful, stable and comfortable for smooth roads. Cheers!

Interesting. Will it be an improvement compared to stock? And also, did you find any better solution? On my 650 the progressive springs and 7,5W oil made a good improvement over stock. Cheers!

Yep, stock header. Cheers!

@@coastrider8881 Okay so I bought a '91 RSE (SP43B) the other day... It has twin exhaust!? Is this normal? Can I just put 2 arrow exhaust mufflers on, will that help it to breathe? It starts with no choke and isn't smooth running at all. Main jets 150, pilot jet 47.5 and NO AIRBOX OR FILTER lol! I've ordered an airbox...

All RS and RSE come with twin mufflers. I replaced mine with a single Arrow muffler, huge loss of weight ! I think it's shown in the video.

Hi, I'm sorry, but the translator couldn't tell what you mean, anyone can translate?

Hi! The link is in the description, cheers!