I am looking at a 2017 King Cab S 2WD with low mileage 2.5L. What sorts of issues should I be aware of with this? It's a warm climate truck.

Which w212 engine is the best? Diesel and Petrol?

06 4x4 28000 mi rusted all rust beware.. Rust arado.

I own an '88 Chevy G30 service van that was used as a work vehicle from '94 thru 2007. Bought in 1994 for $5K w/84K on the OD. Was a former GTE fleet vehicle used by a tech that serviced their long distance microwave towers. A few months later I had to replace the valve stem seals that suddenly cratered so was now burning oil. Eight months later the coil pickup inside the distributor went out. Had it towed home by a neighbor's towing service. He used to operate a full service Texaco station for 45 years so advised me to replace the intake manifold gaskets, ignition coil, MAP sensor and the ignition control module on the distributor since those are affected by the high temperatures trapped under the engine bonnet during prolonged periods of idling. The van came with a monster alternator that powered inverters in the back for corded tools and soldering irons. Did all that only to see the MPGs drop fro 16 to 15. Then the odometer stop working a month later. Two months later I replaced the U-joints and driveshaft carrier bearing plus all four shocks. Drove it for another year until the 3 core radiator sprang leaks causing the water pump to go out. Got those patched and replaced only to have a total electrical loss a year later. I found the cause inside the wiring bulkhead connector where the male and female connectors had burned away from arcing. I went by two salvage yards only to be told that was a common problem with Chevy trucks and vans so I wouldn't find one out in their yards. My older brother was the parts department manager at a Chicagoland Cadillac dealership so said he could get me the bulkhead connector assembly for $900 dealer cost. FYI it includes the entire engine compartment wiring harness, the interior fuse box and dash wiring harness. I passed on that to visit Radio Shack instead where I spent $9 on a pack of M/F electronics spade connectors, solder and flux to replace the burnt ones myself. Had to modify the connectors to make them fit. The interior of both bulkhead connector housings were full of what appeared to be brown Permatex and the exterior where the two met covered with a red rubbery goop. My mechanic neighbor said GTE had problems with water instrusion into that connection block so dig that crap off and out then install a shrould over the the block so rain water runs down it then off to the left towards the engine. That took me around 4 days to repair. Drove the van without incident for the next four years before the intank full pump crapped out right after filling the 32 gallon tank. Got that replaced only to have the EGR valve stick open and hard plastic vacuum lines start breaking apart at the same time. A few months later the factory radiator blew out with the replacement water pump following suit. Replaced both with lifetime warrantied parts from AZ after O'REILLY'S refused to honor their lifetime warranty on the water pump. Had no more problems for the next 5 years until I found exhaust bubbles in the radiator coolant after the 5.7 began to miss badly due to steam knocking off combustion deposits that ended up covering four spark plug electrodes. Bought 4 non-foul adaptors and a bottle of Bar's Leak Head Gasket Sealer. That stuff sealed off the gaskets for the next 7 years and 20,000 miles. Had to reapply the Bar's Leak in 2018 when running down the interstate with a 3/4 ton load in back with another 3/4 ton load inside the trailer I was pulling. Didn't have any problems with the van until recently due to driving it less from 2021 thru July of 2024 after obtaining an '05 Neon. It crapped out that month so started driving my reliable van again. It's gas milage was now a miserable 6 mpg so ran a tank full dosed with B-12 that raised it to 9 mpg. Ran a second tankfull dosed with Berryman's Fuel Injector Cleaner that raised it to 12 mpgs. The engine had lost performance over the years so gave the internals a good cleaning after the oil level was down by one quart. I replaced the oil filter then added one quart of MMO and one quart of Shell Rotells diesel engine oil. Kept that in while using up a tank of gas driving around town where I noticed an increase in performance. The oil wasn't dirty when I added those two quarts and now was jet black when drained. Refilled with Castrol 20w-50 and installed a new Fram oil filter. Now the 5.7 was running strong again like it did in 1994. Took it out on the interstate where I could zip up to 65 mph on the on ramp and cruise with ease at 75 mph. Returned home then restarted the engine one hour later to go get beer and smokes. Now it would start but not idle! Sprayed rust penetrant around the TBI and intake manifold to see if those were now sucking in air. Nothing happened so I checked the vac lines to find four factory connectors to the TBI had been chewed on by mice. Now the engine would idle .5 seconds longer so checked the EGR which showed to be good. Next suspect was the 28 year old ignition control module. A new made it ifle for 1 second longer. Do I ran a test on the original IAC that only got it stuck fully open. Replacing that added another.5 second to the idle time. Next suspect was the original TPS so I began adding beer can shims between the idle speed screw and throttle cam stop. Six shims got it idling steady at a higher RPM where I could drive in forward and reverse at idle speed without the engine stalling out. I let the engine idle for one hour while going to AZ for a new TPS. Installed that the next morning only to have the same start-won't idle problem. Sprayed the rust penetrant around again to find that the TBI base gasket was now leaking. So I rebuilt the TBI again (did that earlier when replace the intake manifold gaskets) only to have the same problem when reinstalled but now could goose the gas pedal to keep the engine running while I sprayed the rest of the penetrant around the intake manifold. Discovered that the passenger side now has a vacuum leak in the rear dince the engine will idle smoothly as long as the penetrant flows down to the back of the engine. I'll be replacing the intake manifold gaskets this weekend now that the weather has warmed up. This time I'll be using the original style side gaskets that don't have the rear coolant ports blocked off with hopes that'll improve the gas mileage by 2 mpgs. I also need to replace the blower motor since it now screeches loudly for a few seconds when switched on. Other items that need replacement are the both cab doors window weather stripping and vent window assemblies. Their pivots have rusted thru even after keeping those lubricated over the years. I also had to replace the rubber seals on all 4 swinging doors and the sliding side door in 1998. Also had to repaint the entire exterior due to the factory white finish paint peeling off the factory primer. I used the Dupont Nason paint system with their primer-sealer as the first coat then two coats of the white finish paint. Did that in 200O with it holding up for 17 years before spots began popping off again. My older brother said that was due to GM using cheaper steel on the bodies of their fleet vehicles. Says it expands then contracts more during changes in the temperature. I guess that's why I hear the sheet metal pop when driving and when parked in my driveway. Once the paint began popping again I tried using thinned amber shellac to wick between the paint and primer before covering up the spots with white Rust-Oleum industrial paint. Those spots stopped popping off the paint so have been touching up new spots of popping paint that way. Been thinking of selling it once Im finished with the gakets and blower motor after an electrician offer me $4000 for it.

Im looking at putting a HID into a VIDEO projector, not a headlight projector...

Ive owned 5 S10s and S15s. They are the most resilient vehicles. I still own 2 of them.

I hat1990 king cab 4/4

I have a 2006 Titan XE 4x4 crew w/179j on it. I immediately got the cracked manifolds and the HVAC actuator clicking shortly after I bought it used for $9k with 114k miles on it. Quoted $4500 for a shop to replace the entire exhaust system. I attempted it myself and broke 80 % of the studs off trying to remove the manifolds. They were badly corroded. Got the manifolds $550 off rock auto, and a JBA catback system $440 from eBay and all the fasteners and gaskets were new from Nissan dealer that set me back $375. I got another shop to finish my attempt for $900 using all my parts. Sounds and runs amazing still 4 years later. I did buy a slew of parts a year later like shocks, strut assemblies (Koni), radiator, water pump, thermostat, pcv’s, catch can, pads, front hub assemblies, third brake light, ball joints, sway bar bushings, high pressure power steering hoses, oil cooler O ring, coolant temp sensor, and miscellaneous bulbs all at once from rock auto for a tad over $1000. After the parts canon was installed it is like a new rig. The clicking has not been addressed yet but it isn’t bad enough yet. I replaced all the coolant hoses with cool color silicone ones. Doing all this sounds crazy but to me paying $1000 a month for a new truck sounds insane in comparison.

Looking to buy one of these trucks. Is 160k miles a lot of money for a 4.8 v8 2004?

What a lot of people dont seem to realize is that this is extremely easy to replace, but it is perhaps the most important thing you could watch on your vehicle besides liquids. This is the single Achilles Heel of the 3.0 Vulcan because it directly drives the oil pump; if this thing goes while you are going 65 down the highway, the engine goes with it. His advice to use OEM parts is not a suggestion, it should be a requirement.

At one point in the mid-2000s, my dad, my uncle, my cousin, his brother and I all had one of these. Looked like a Ford car lot at a family dinner. I still have my uncle's 99. Even though it's nickel and diming me to death, I'll never sell it.

The new edge is just a attempt to fix something that ain't broken. Typically you end up with something worse.

I miss my 1994 sold it’s 3 years ago moving from Oregon to Kentucky.

You can replace all the "bags" in the Airmatic for the same as you'd spend on the conversion. It'll last for another 100,000 miles and you'll never get as good a ride from a coil-spring conversion.

mine is 2001 with 186,600 miles no problems to this day,

Thank u! Very well made video!

How to wire the electrical wires afterwards?

In short: FUCK YEAH YOU SHOULD!

Nice upgrade !

FORD RANGER USA ONLY ,,,, THE TRUE WORLD MODELS WERE DIFFERENT--up till 2018

The gloss black rear panel is crap and should be replaced

Best sounding Mustang to date! Doesn’t need a computer to make it sound great!

Now 30,000 miles, no problems

good

If you can find one...hell yes

I grew up on these. So yeah, great trucks. I want one if I can find one. 😊

Wow this car is beautiful. So cool!!

هي طوميل

Had 2 1978 Chevrolet K10's.....wish I had them back......

As a retired GM technician the model years 2007 through 2013 was one of the best trucks Chevrolet ever made. I personal have a 2013 Silverado ext cab LT. the only issue I have had is with leaking rear shocks. No engine or transmission leaks. No engine oil usage issues. Never had AFM issues. 2014 and newer have three times the issues, mostly programming issues. You will have less issues if you do the routine maintenance on time and do not abuse your truck.

I have a 1993 c1500.223 .miles, has been a money pit. But worth it. 5.7lt, obs 2door.5speed,short bed❤❤

I mean I have 4 I’d say there a pretty decent truck

The only downside of hardbody ownership is constantly being pestered by young guys wanting to buy it! I live where the speed limit is 80mph, and my 93 keeps up just fine.

Have a 19 Trd Pro in Voodoo blue. Will be my 1st and last truck.

mine is a 99 2.4 with 465K miles and going strong

I own a 88 original motor & transmission fenders & box😂 500k+.....

piece of garbage, now days all of them, better buy older toyota trucks way more better than any domestic ..

Best trucks made

My current high school beater is my step dad’s 2001 4.6 f150 he bought in 02 or 03. It has 349k on it. I only drive it about 20 miles a day or less on back roads. I just put a belt and idler pulley on it. The rockers are gone and the back of the frame and the bed are bent because it got rear ended. The bed has a huge dent in it from when it got backed into a while ago.

Its ugly as fuck. Looks like a 1991 Mitsubish Eclipse

Ive owned an 01 Bullitt and now Own an 03 Mach 1. I very much prefer the New edge to the 94-98 sn95

One of my favorite cars.

The 4.8 v8. Don't have AFM only one I would buy

they have a strong massive chassis, only real problem is the bullshit welded door hinges.

2021 Nissan frontier. Code p0448 . 39000 miles 1st time was 32000 miles and was fixed under warranty. Dealer said water got into the charcoal canister and froze. Warranty is out now . Haven't checked yet to see if it's the same issue

Anytime you buy a new jeep, drill sm holes in the bottom of rocker panels all way round and the back liftup door, then rust wont form, drill where it cant be seen on inner side !😊

Thank you , very helpful

My truck 2020 frontier midnight edition hidro locked over a pond of water hit the motor intake and dealer don't want to pay still under warranty.

2005 gt with fog lights goes crazyy

I have a 2012 crew cab LT, 98K mi in Jan 2025. I researched trucks before buying. People can complain about anything, many times minor things. Almist anything can be fixed on this truck for cheap compared to fixing a new 2024 model, costing 5x more. The compact size is ideal for those who don't need or want a mid- or full-sized truck, the ride is excellent, it is fun to drive unlike a full-sized truck. Before you gripe about minor repairs, why not educate yourself about the tranmission and engine problems nearly all of the modern trucks are experiencing. This is a compact, inexpensive truck. Expect it not to be perfect, but it is a good vehicle for many people. GM is very hit or miss, when good it can be very reliable, but a sizable percentage are crappy. I had a 2004 silverado 5.3 LT that drove well but was absolute horsecrap for reliability, breaking down about every 1.5 mos over the nearly 5 years I owned it. And those are known as bullitproof trucks, many still on the road from that generation. I just got a crappy one unfortunately. The Colorado/Canyon are the same hit or miss build quality.