Yes idles ok .. but if I rev it several times it can do that .. so I don't. It should idle tho. If it runs away that easy ..then it usually .means an air leak or it's mixed too lean.

It depends. If it is "tensioned" rebar you don't want to cut it. If it's just reinforcement mesh it's probably ok. But I'm no expert. I would advise you to seek guidance from a professional and have it scanned first.

I use fast-flow .. but I find the 5/16 is a little sloppy on the carb nipple, hard to seal. I reccomend using automotive rubber fuel line everywhere but the carb input. It last longer and it sucks to replace line on the tank bellows and selector. It's easy between the separator filter and the carb tho. So if that starts to harden just replace that one hose . It's the only one you need to see. Use SS oetiker clamps everyehere you can too ..they seal way better than any screw clamps

Thanks man! There's a little water time mid vidi ..but it's without raves connected. No bogging from dead stop ..but caps at 6000 until I reinstate the raves. This is a huge monkey off my back .. can actually enjoy it now. Next I'll get after the deck and put new decals on which I have. I'll likely loose the sparkle but shinny grey is good enough

Man I love to hear these reach people and help. You did some really nice mods there. I just this weekend found another gremlin that was disturbing low end. It was my RAVE valves ..I had bypassed the solenoid and they're opening too soon and unevenly. I disconnected to test and it's a beast low end now. So I need get the solenoid working and that should give me good performance both ends of the power band. Glad to hear you got yours running good .. I agree it's a real fun ski. I can see why different sponsors can help .. mine slides too much

@@jonparkmac yes i left that solenoid connected and removed the other on the carbs but there the same so if that one doesn't work try your other one that you disconnected

The original pump was smaller and metal housing and mine apparently got the upgrade to the bigger one which is a plastic housing. If yours is a metal housing and the ring you tried is too big, than that's what it is. Let me know if that's the case and I'll see if I can find a source. 🤙🤙

The part # is 271000653. Go to OSD Marine and search that one. I think the wear rings are the same for the metal and plastic pumps.

Try what you have first and see what it does. It's really easy to drop these carbs out and change jets. What I did in the video is last resort stuff. To your question, I used 1 1/2 out on L and 0 on H. This weekend I'm going to go 1/4 turn in on the L. If that works ..but not enough ..I'll change to 75 Idle jets. Go rich and sneak up on lean. The 951 does not survive lean. I think I went too rich for stock air box. Good luck, I'd like to know what happens for ya

Sure can

@@jonparkmac hi I have a GTI I want to install a 951 engine board. I do not know how the cooling system go.

So that I can install it in the GTI hall

Motor mounts and lots of other stuff is different including the MPEM. Not sure if it will fit with the big exhaust pipe. Here's how the cooling works tho kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6OuoI2ldpZgZ8U

@@jonparkmac OK OK yeah I have watched that video like 20 to 30 times but my question is dear dear two red hose that is on top the exhaust exactly where those connect

Glad it helped you.

Agree. Heat is boss. Thanks for your insight

There is no last level check once glued and the concrete is poured. It's either true and level or it's not. Have to get it right since there's no way to adjust any of this.

I'll pin it ..HuthBrother 277001729 Steering... www.amazon.com/dp/B08TWPV5BZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And now I'm waiting for the end of time, so I can end my time with you.

😂 you got it ..damn I didn't think many of us were left

Oh snap ..that's it .. now I need to scroung up a ski to send ya lol

@@jonparkmac meatloaf was my moms favorite band haha, I'll never forget the words to that song

Yeah .. it's an awesome story about real life .. the switch to "praying for the end of time" is hilarious

Thanks man, this is good to know. I did get peculiar behavior trying to blow air thru and didn't understand why. The good news is the saw runs real good so I guess I got lucky. I also have an ultrasonic cleaner now.. long overdue, so I'll be using that going forward. Thanks for info ..there's not much out there on these

What do you mean. No rubber orings inside the hat? Or those rubber bumpers on the drive shafts?

​@@jonparkmacI got mine apart to do the carbon seal just now and it's got the bumpers. I'm just blind. Also fun fact. Mine didn't have the brass c-clip 😂 whoever did the ring left it out. No wonder it had 30 gallons of water in the hull when we finally put it on the trailer.

So true .. these things are cheap to buy for the same price. I just like the journey and learning 🤘

Right on! Glad you found this helpful.

It's a fair question. I think you want to remove the damaged one or you'd still have a short. Also, digging into the back runs the risk of cutting across the printed circuit conductors. The only other reason is not being real sure which solder legs it is ..it's not labeled on that side. But IMO ..dig it up and replace it. That said ..we've toyed with the idea of running external wires so you can easily replace later if needed. Thanks for feedback!

@@jonparkmac i meant in addition to…I did this on my 97 Xp but after digging out the diode I figured might as well remove the thin layer on the back and solder it from there. These videos sure help resurrecting these old skis!

Ahh I'm with yah. Yeah that's actually a better way to solder. And it's why I cut the lines instead of heating it up so hot on the north side of the board. When you solder circuit boards ..you do it on the back side like you said. I guess for these it's just a little more trouble and we all have AD now too

The one you got is for a shaft with no c-clip but an oring. It's a different setup. You might be able to use the c-clip. Dry fit it and see. Inside the metal hat there should be two rubber rings ..those are for preventing leaks. Don't use OEM bellows. They are too stiff or too flimsy. See my recent video on exactly that subject.

Yes. I don't know what that's all about either. I don't see the need for any other ones beyond what's on the membrane.

Shit if I know, that's a question for Mr Spok. I doubt these have any reason to store enough energy for a serious shock. An air condition compressor, absolutely..not these though. Just touch the speaker parts ..the rest is grounded metal. Nanoo-Nanoo 🖖🖖

I wish I had the time sir, I'm afraid I can't even keep my own fleet all running 😆

Thank you. I'm glad this helped. I use the channel lock trick all the time ..works so fast and easy. I made another one this year about aftermarket bellows and problems with them

@@jonparkmac that is a great trick. My jet pump put up quite a fight after 30 years of never being removed. I'm glad to be giving the ski new life all over again.

I don't know. It very well may.

@@jonparkmac i think i'll dismantle my TV and see if this replacemengmt fits, thanks bro.

If you get one out and compare it to the one in this video ..I bet it would work.

As long as both orings seal snug inside the Hat corrosion on the shaft shouldn't matter. I wouldn't reccomend using rtv as a solution there.

Premix one tank and run it with injection. That's also what the manual says.

Hey brother, it's from the free manual you can download. Factory for ski. You have to study it a little. Every one has a diagram toward the end. seadoomanuals.net/

Glad it helped. I got the idea from someone else. I also made a threading tap to clean up the threads ..but I got that from someone else too 😂

I think you may mean the bellows or sometimes called the sending unit. It's not a pump ..just some long tubes inside a big tube. On these you have to take the steering off the top and move it aside ..and then pull the sending unit straight up thru that opening. The tank can ONLY come out after that .. and only with engine out.

@@jonparkmac the motors already out and rusting away on a work bench (came like that not my doing) but thank you so much I’ve been trying to figure it out for so long. You have any advice on getting a motor apart with the pistons and rave valves completely rusted to the cylinders?

@@jonparkmacthe gas tank is finally out thanks to you

Hey glad it worked on the tank. On the rusted engine .. the best thing to use is 1:1 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. It's way better than pb-blaster or wd-40. Let it sit over night.

@@jonparkmacokay cool that’s what I was thinking about doing I’m just waiting on the tool to get the flywheel off. I’m pretty sure the top end is gone especially since both of the rave valves are stuck and the rod on one is broken off so I doubt those are ever coming out. I’m just hoping the crank case is salvageable whenever I can finally get into it

My ski is a 2008 Honda f15x Aqua Trax

Hey there. There is no issue with the metal into plastic threads there. What you do is use that thread sealant on the threads, not silicon. Teflon tape will work too. The reason it's leaking is he's not doing it right. You actually don't even need to seal those threads, just added protection. What you DO need is a new rubber seal washer that goes down into the hub hole. That's what seals it, not the threads and not the plastic half circles. The way these work is, the rubber washer fits around the cable and goes down into the button of the hub. It's a little snug. The half circles fit around a collar groove on the cable and then they slide up into the nut. Then the nut is screwed carefully into hub until it contacts the rubber washer. Then about 1 more turn it squeezes that rubber making it compress around the cable. That's the seal effect right there. Water cannot get under or over either side of the rubber..and it cannot get past the middle around the cable since it's squished right. I just redid a ski where they tried to use rtv silicone there and on inside and made a huge mess. I cut all of it away and put back connect parts. Dry as a bone. I hate to say it but your mechanic doesn't know how these work. If your handy ..you can do it yourself. If so, let me know and I have a few more tips.

The rubber washers bottom left are what I am referring too. 2 Set 277001729 277001527 Steering Reverse Aluminum Cable Lock Nut Kit - by Huthbrother, Compatible with Sea Doo 293830063 277000055 211100009 a.co/d/hw7DUO5

I just saw your note about Honda 2008. I don't know if this is the same as SeaDoo.

Always glad to help. .. especially those generational bonding moments

Up and down play on any engine is an issue yes. Could be on the crank or the wrist pin.

@@jonparkmac it's the big end of the rod. I can see it through the reed block hole. But I think it might be ok as the play is supposed to be measured with the piston at TDC. When I do that I can't discern any play. I'm just going to clean everything up(there is old gas, water, and debris in the crankcase), rebuild the carb and see if this thing will run. It has good spark but if I do tear it all apart I'll definitely clean and gap the points. An interesting thing I found in the manual is that the points cover plate is the correct size(.020") to check and adjust point gap. Pretty neat Poulan engineers

Would be good to replace bearings and at least seals if you can find them. Also, I've had good luck replacing points with electronic chip.

You are most welcome

Need that idle to be up around 3000 rpms on the trailer. Make sure your compression is 130psi too.

Actually you should take pictures anyway .. regardless of making a DIY video. Also, if you are making a DIY video... then you already have a digital record to refer back too and usually don't need pictures 😉. But yes it's a great point, I do it one way other the other .. especially on intricate projects like carburetors and chainsaws. Thanks for the comment!

If they're anything like the seadoos, then it likely just needs fuel hoses etc replaced and carbs rebuilt. That's pretty standard procedure on these old skis when you first get them. Check compression too. It's one of those two issues.