#016

Mind you, this is Southern California so the weather doesn't get TOO bad, but a lot of the points are common throughout the land: make sure it's well sealed / insulated, add your drip loops, etc.

[@JonathanBaileyn2u]

Wow! I came here to search exactly for “run Ethernet inside to outside”… and I couldn’t have found a better video. Thank you sir for your wealth of knowledge.

[@LazyBoyZR1]

Former Telco tech here. Drip Loop... I was naming it before you said it. Like yelling at a game show. Great work. Nice video.

[@Alan.livingston]

A while back we pulled some cable into another office in our building. I wanted to pull two but it was someone else's project and he made the call to only pull one. Fast forward a while and we ended up expanding and taking the office over..... aaaand had to pull another cable. Always pull two.

[@lowvoltagedude7837]

Alan Livingston it's good practice run extra feeders/data cables labor is basically the same just paying for extra cable in the run. commonly known as a combo drop. It's always a tricky thing people can amaze you with how cheep they can be . Some installers see the need a place it anyways just be smart about it

[@brookdubose]

get an amazon affiliate account and link to the tools and parts you use. as a tech myself I'm always looking for better ways to do things and better tools from someone with more experience, I would certainly utilize the links and it would help get you a little kickback for doing so. That cable tie does are particularly interesting to me.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Great suggestion!! I think I will...

[@johnpetrov6602]

All good techs go to heaven.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Boy I hope so!!

[@lowvoltagedude7837]

John Petrov I think so awesome comment brother see you in heaven

[@step2191]

As always, the attention is in the details. Great Video!

[@AP9311]

Wow, I didn't think of the zip ties acting for drip down! good tip! with the non rated outside box, that really bugs me. if I was doing that job. I would have re cabled it to the metal conduit using that big box. you know? that's just me. Lol. I'm still watching all of your videos, lol

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Awesome! Yeah, there were a bunch of bad cabling work done to this older home over the years. I was just there for one day and was limited in what I could accomplish. I've since returned for more work and am planning on being back again soon to run even more cables.

[@AP9311]

AWESOME!! I look forward to see follow up videos on this one. :)

[@robmauro9439]

Where did you get the black ziptie clamps seen at 4:07 ???????

[@myzt1cz3r03]

That silicon job. They make a rubber grommet to put in them if needed. Poke a hole with a small pick, and push the wire in. It is water tight, and does not need any thing that would prevent you from changing it out later.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Yup, I've seen them. If I did more exterior wall penetrations on a regular basis I'd probably get a pack. I just don't encounter enough of this. A tube of silicone can cover just about every shape I've needed to plug!

[@alek202]

I'm really amazed at your jobs, but putting silicone on cables is a no-go (which, in Germany, could get you fired)! If one cable needs to be replaced, you basically have to undo all your silicone! Get yourself a pack of cable glands, the plastic ones are cheap - about 1 USD per piece.

[@dougmc666]

If you had a hole in the top of the box then silicone would be a great idea, by using it in place of a grommet on the bottom, you've plugged the drain so the box can hold water, not good.

[@Lee-dz9ll]

Hey, enjoy your videos, the rack clean up was worth the watch. I'm a low voltage guy, started in telcom and moved to low voltage many moons ago. My mentors, a navy guy and an accountant who owned a low voltage shop focused on fire. Com guys befuddles me with their workmanship in general. You have some great tips and insight you share, keep doing it. Workers to fill these jobs are pretty hard to come by if you're picky. Now what the heck, is data exempt from low voltage NEC directives that require all entry/exit points go thru proper conduit fittings with strain relief functions? I don't think so. I also watched your drywall repair video, kudos for going the extra mile, I'm a huge fan of customer service. But.... again, the NEC I read requires junctions to be in a box and using those pesky strain relief connectors. I've been bad mouthing bell types for years for these and assundry other reasons. Keep shooting. A few of my favorites: www.grainger.com/product/52AX66&AL!2966!3!166595096378!!!g!81032041557!?gclid=COOU8eangtQCFUc9gQodcysE2w&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166595096378!!!g!81032041557!&ef_id=WQTGWAAAAmU84uL8:20170522010658:s www.elecdirect.com/cord-grips-strain-relief/cable-glands/dome-cap-cable-gland-1-2-npt-39-56-black-complete-with-o-ring-locknut?gclid=COrrsdqmgtQCFZM9gQodowkF4Q www.elecdirect.com/cord-grips-strain-relief/cord-grips-npt/rsr-106-are-1-2-npt-aluminum-cord-grip-cable-glands-312-375-cable-range?gclid=CNihmt6mgtQCFRc8gQodV2sE5Q

[@scwfan08]

Really nice video. But I wouldn't seal the bottom of the box because if water still happened to enter it, it couldn't get out again which wouldn't be good, right? So my tip is: try to make it hard for water enter from the top and the sides but let it get out on the bottom.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

+SCWfan06 You're quite right! I have recently learned about that from another outdoor install I've done. I'll be sure to bring that up in a new video soon. I had installed a security gate in a home in the hills where it rains often ND the humidity is much higher. I returned for a one other work and found the watertight boxes and conduit were completely full of water! It was from the condensation due to the temperature differential between the cold outside and the small transformer inside the box. Now I know to leave drain holes on the bottom and low points of the system to minimize that problem.

[@JUICED83Z]

Drop loops are only really needed were the line enters the home. It's purpose is to help keep water from getting in. I was a field tech for the phone company for many years.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

It makes sense. In this case, I didn't want water to drain off the roof and flow inward towards the house.

[@tin2001]

JUICED83Z It's also useful if the cable runs on top of anything else that could lead inside. Water is a bastard of a thing and finds paths all over the place.

[@lkfng]

Can you post in your videos the amazon affiliate link to the gear and accessories you use? Its a great way to support your excellent videos.

[@mikel9567]

You do great work but one suggestion I would offer is to take pride in your caulking. Most people won't pay attention to the wiring but they will notice the areas you caulked / sealed. It only takes a second to run your finger over the bead and make it look nice and smooth and much more professional rather than a sloppy, globular mess. Just my two cents.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

You are quite right and I've done that in the past. I'll make a note to mention this in a future video. Thx!!

[@linagee]

Watching this video as a drinking game. "Service loops", take a drink. Was disappointed! I heard "drip loop" and "loop", but not "service loop". :-D

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Yeah, on my channel, that could be a good game to play...

[@speway]

Was this Ethernet cable rated for outdoor/exterior use? The have it available now that are rated for burial and direct soil contact whereas you don't need a conduit/race.

[@78ig]

I have cat 8 sftp and idk if it weather proof against WATER-HEAT-COLD My biggest concern is the HEAT

[@JeremyWestAU]

Not a bad effort - I personally wouldnt do a drip loop anywhere that is overly visible like that though maybe just my OCD. I try to do them where they are less obvious. Probably wouldnt use a cable tie either, just a nice loop and a bit of help from gravity. One of my biggest pet hates is when cables are taped or cable tied together somewhere in the run, in-case you need to remove one or want to add more and use one of the old ones as a pull through. Nice videos though :)

[@johng.1703]

do rubber / external grommets exist in the US? we use them whenever a cable goes through a metal box, it prevents damage to the cable from metal enclosures. the drill and screw tie wrap fasteners are pretty good, but you can also get a drill and hammer in fixing (Cable Tie Plug Mounting Base or Cable Tie FIR TREE PUSH MOUNT) I take it no consideration was taken for the type of silicone sealant being used? there was none given to the application of it. if it has a vinegar type smell when it is curing it is the wrong type.

[@jp498]

Lots of ways outdoor cabling can have problems. Looks like you probably used outdoor grade cable but didn't mention it. Normal cheap indoor cable will rot quickly in the sun and weather. A bushing of some sort is good on that metal box, especially if you plan to run more cables in. It does not need to be absolutely water proof. A slight venting will prevent the box from filling up with water. Outdoor boxes that are sealed tight will fill up with water from condensation cycles inside the box.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

So true! I found that out last year doing an install for a security gate outside. I'm still composing the content for that video. I will definitely mention the condensation on outdoor boxes. That was a crazy experience for me!!

[@KyMobileMedia]

Just curious. When doing this type of work, do you charge by the hour or by the project? Thanks for your tips. Very helpful.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

+KY Mobile Media Typically, because I am an independent contractor, I charge by the job.

[@KyMobileMedia]

Thanks. I have been doing work like this on the side for the past year or so. I would like to go full time with IT work. How do you typically find new clients? I am guessing word of mouth is one of the best, but what kind of marketing do you do to get new jobs?

[@bigcitybuslines3872]

Running 2 lines was already in the plan! :D I figured, if I want one to be PoE AP then the other could be plain LAN. Why did you put a drip loop there, was it the box or a specifically low spot?

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

The drip loop was more than anything else a habit of mine! But in this instance, the reasoning is that there was already a large bundle of lines coming off of the roof at that point without a drip loop so in the event where water makes its way to my cables, they go no further down the line than where I put my drip loop!

[@matthewmckinney2709]

It's actually better practice to run Fiber optic cable when running cable outside to avoid electrical surges from lightning. Then you can use a Fiber/Copper media converter on each end. Unless of course, it is going to an IP camera outside.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Oh trust me, I'm a fan of fiber! But for a simple run like this in a home, to have added complexity (over the complex system that's already there) may have tipped it over the edge of what the customer would be willing to put up with just so the cables will last longer in the elements. There's already a vast amount of copper running around the peripheral of this home that's been working for decades wso it would have been a hard sell. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE working with fiber -especially in outdoor applications where it really shines, but it isn't always that easy to justify.

[@matthewmckinney2709]

FiberNinja Yeah. Good points. I know when I install a run to my detached garage someday (to install an AP), I'm gonna bury a Fiber run to prevent a lightning surge.

[@Anehab100]

I’m thinking about switching jobs and moving to more on site physical management of networks. Can you give an estimate as to how much I am looking at making per year? I manage VPNs at Rackspace and am at a little over 55k/year

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

I couldn't possibly make such an estimate -mainly because there are just too many variables to account for. I will say in my own personal experience that the money I have made doing field service work and cabling over the last few years has paid significantly more than my previous IT jobs ever did. Still, I'm sure I would be making more money had I chose to stay behind a desk. I will also say that having any sort of IT background will help you tremendously when it comes to field work because you're already used to being the customer in a sense which is a good perspective to have.

[@revadan]

why run parallel with high voltage line?

[@bobandbobandbob6285]

Can't run directly in same connection.

[@isettech]

Might want to check the code requirements in your area for mixing Class 1 and Class 2 circuits in the junction box. Most locations prohibit using Class two wire with class 1, so class 1 must be used for low voltage in with mains, and it has to be directly related to the mains application and not for unrelated equipment. In NEC there is a rule that you can run low voltage or comms wiring in Class 1 methods, and commingle with power lines, if and only if the entire comms circuit, every inch soup to nuts, is wired in Class 1 wiring methods. It's not even really an exception. You see, Class 1 wiring has no minimum voltage. If you want to install to mains spec and then run 6V on it, be my guest. Nothing says you can't use class 1 wiring to convey signal instead of power.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Now this is an interesting issue! I'm definitely going to research more into this and talk about it soon on an upcoming episode. Thanks!!

[@Zeamus634]

Don't you use cable glands and grommets in America???

[@aguyandhiscomputer]

Merica knows nothing of cable glands and grommets.

[@sreejhu]

Do you think routing the ethernet cat5e cable outisde or through between the walls is a better solution? I just recently bought a Lorex 4K NVR box link below: @t And the Ethernet cable that came with the set is a CAT5E 30m cable. Link below: @t Do you think what will be the best practice for a longer life span for wires / better performance for video / data quality. I live in Canada and here the temp can go from -20 degrees to all the way to +40 degrees in summer. So what would be the suggestion for me. Here in Canada we have brick wall outside and in between, there is drywall and wood. What will you recommend?

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

It will always vary from job to job. In this case, this was a very high end home in a very expensive part of the Los Angeles area and the weather is fairly tame compared to your example. It was more important to disturb the inside of the home as the owners and their family was still living within the spread out residence. There was also insufficient attic space nor was it fully connected through the structure to be a solution. So it is the kind of thing that has to be evaluated when factoring many different variables for the job you have. Now I don't doubt there is outdoor-rated cable that can survive such a harsh environment as your situation. But if the inside isn't being occupied and the drywall is fairly accessible and easy to patch, then sure, keeping it indoors would be a solution. My first thought would be how much time is available for the work. Running a line outside and back in as opposed to many holes that will need to be patched could take much more time to finish so there's that factor too. I'm sure you see the idea here.

[@sreejhu]

@@FiberNinjaStudios thanks for your comment, I think I wil route it via inside between the wall, I checked my attic and there is space to route. Also patching the walls here is Canada is easy.

[@dougmc666]

Two points stand out for me, you're bundling your Ethernet cable to power cables and combined with what looks like a very long cable, I can imagine a lot of noise showing up, not a good thing.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

I only see one point here! Ok, first of all, there are no power cables at this part of the house. Those other black or white cables are either cable, earlier ethernet runs, or satellite TV feeds. Still, very little "noise" will show up in Ethernet cabling. The entire construction of the cable and protocol work quite effectively to remove any potential interference. I am going to be demonstrating this in the future with a few demonstrations I'm putting together but I can tell you that you can run network cables along power lines all day long without any detriment. The fact that many regulating agencies don't allow it doesn't mean there's any major issue with it.

[@mikeb5070]

@@FiberNinjaStudios AFAIK it is a breach of TIA cabling standards to run parallel to any AC for more than just a short distance of (I think 24") I have lots of experience solving cable noise issues bc poor practice and running in or along AC current.

[@ReadTheShrill]

Also: if you're buying 1000 feet of cable, buy two 500 foot boxes instead of one 1000 foot box.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Because a 1000ft spool is usually a lot cheaper per foot than 500. Frankly, I try very much to buy my boxes of cable 2 at a time. Still, you have an important point that I'll make a note to mention in a future video: The more individual boxes of cable you bring, the more lines you can run at the same time. It may cost more in materials but it may save a lot more in labor when you're only pulling once. It's a bit of math I've already started putting together for figuring out costs when doing a job. Thanks for mentioning it!! It's on the list!

[@lowvoltagedude7837]

ReadTheShrill I just buy 1000ft cable.

[@MatthewGeier]

That job wouldn't pass certification on my site. Cable ties are not to be used on cat5/6 cables. They 'crimp' the sheath and crush the pairs inside out of shape. This WILL show up on a Cat6 cable scan. Most of the cable manufacturers also won't warrant an installation where cable ties have been used. Generally, velcro ties are recommended as they are wide and can't be pulled too tight. Cables run outside need to be outdoor rated, especially where sunlight can get on them. The UV will destroy the sheath, otherwise, they need to be fully enclosed in conduit. The creepy-crawlies love to move into the conduit and joint boxes.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

+Matthew Geier That's totally fine because no one I work for is willing to pay for cable certification -NOT ONE!! I am actually preparing a new video addressing a lot of this sort of thing. Also, I did use outdoor rated cable but didn't mention it because I was addressing other issues at that site. Also, I'd strongly discourage ever using velcro on outdoor cabling...

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

+Matthew Geier BTW Matthew, do you have a cable scanner that can demonstrate this affect when applying zip ties? If so, I'd like to see it if you can shoot a video. You feel so, please PM me!

[@MatthewGeier]

Where I work the 'upstairs' people have decreed that all installed cable must be tested and have a manufacturer backed warranty. And yes, I'm sure that's built into the prices we pay for work. And no domestic customer would want to pay that extra :-). Just get my PC working. And Cheap.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Do you happen to be the tech that does the certifications? Or does your organization contract the testing out?

[@dougmc666]

Just because you don't test your cables is no reason to do things that everyone knows would negatively impact the test. Having said that, it is possible to use cable ties and not 'crimp' the sheath. Along the same lines I like your loop in the box, a nice gentle radius that's easy on the cable.

[@Layarion]

you shouldn't run ethernet cables near power if you can avoid it. fucks with the data and can cause packet loss.

[@birdgang8890]

Who the hell uses a wiremold box outside.....

[@chippy3350]

Never run copper network cable outdoors, always use optical fibre no matter how short. Advice from a network cabling guy of 38 years.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Good luck with that one! LOL

[@rileykinn3872]

Obviously not trained as a network guy. Probably a phone guy that later got into ethernet. Never put a link in your cable what he called a driploop.

[@FiberNinjaStudios]

Not the case at all. I was trained in networking / IT for about 20 years before breaking into telephony late in life. Watch some of my other videos, I'll actually show you what happens when you DON'T use a drip loop in some installations. You call a drip loop a "link"?