1/28th WLToys K969 - Major Upgrades! We try to make our k969 RWD and competitive on the RCP Track!

[@ricardomaldonado601]

I bought that metal upgrade and I like the way it worked and it has a little play in it but works very well

[@TheShopMiniRC]

It seems some are good and some are bad.

[@justinhetricck6197]

If you run that little thing on a carpet track,carpet dust can get inside the motor and make it smoke like that. Just got to keep it clean like you did. Great video 👍 (I can't tell from the video if the track is carpet squares or rubber squares)

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Makes sense. We run on RCP foam tiles.

[@johnm5131]

What is so difficult about the micro-market is that it is very hard to configure the vehicles. For example: 1/24,1/1/27, and 1/28 all seem to be interchangeable. The car's sizes all overlap. There are 20 or so chassis to buy, but they only frequently list wheelbases, not widths. The manufacturer websites are disorganized, so you can't find an upgrade path. And none of the online hobby centers respond to you! LOL! I've been trying to fit a chassis under a whole slew of Vintage 1/24 Tamtech bodies I collected and can't find a chassis to fit. I long for the days when it was just 1/10th scale!

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Yeah. It’s definitely hard. I know there is an atomic (I can’t remember which model) but it’s SUPER adjustable. (At leaf wheelbase wise)

[@chefbgordon8892]

I’ve had mine stock for over 1.5 years has been great no issues at all. Just recently ordered the stuff to brushless swap it and that’s probably all I’ll do to it. They’re great stock with small upgrades 🤷‍♂️

[@johnnyphillips1777]

Rwd rules, lol. I am currently waiting on the all metal complete set, including new servo and drift wheels in matching color. So, some time in March, I will begin the process as well. I greatly appreciate the binding points you've shown. Thanks

[@TheShopMiniRC]

For sure! Thanks a ton for watching.

[@magnusstone]

By any chance do you have a link? Thanks!

[@naono69]

Serious driving 💪👍👍👍 wahou !

[@TheShopMiniRC]

;)

[@vanturner9403]

I have found the aluminum upgrades from China are good as long as they aren’t linked moving parts. Shock towers, motor mounts or just the chassis plate. Simple parts like that are usually excellent.

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Good tip! That makes sense

[@vanturner9403]

@@TheShopMiniRC since you responded I’m going to hit the subscribe button. Thanks

[@TheShopMiniRC]

@@vanturner9403 huge thanks. I always try to respond. ;)

[@jimmylarsen82]

Great video! Big thank you for sharing. I pretty new in 1/18 RC but planning on maybe getting 6-8 WLtoys cars and buying a Mini Z track to put up in my garage for racing. Could you maybe do a video on what kyosho mini z body fits the K969 and how to modify to fit kyosho bodys to them? Also wandering if you have any experince with EASYLAP and how to add their transponders to wltoys cars like the K969?? Thank you again

[@TheShopMiniRC]

98mm bodies will fit the k969. EasyLap transponders just need simple power to them. You can easily add a transponder to a 969. Just plug the transponder directly into the batters (might be easiest to plug it into the balance cable. You can also use a splitter or solder it at the receiver. Either way, it just needs a positive and negative

[@MattTrump075]

The tolerances from the manufacturers that make the parts for these are so loose that you could end up getting two different parts in terms of size/scale when you order replacement or "upgrades". A group of us were messing with these for the last year buying all sorts of parts and upgrades and honestly the car that runs the best is the one that has had the least "upgrades" and came with the stock plastic rtr kit. Changed esc and receiver only and just took the car apart and made sure there was no binding. Also left in gear diffs but added diff oil as well as gear grease for in the diff cases to keep parts from wearing too fast. need to clean often, but keeps gears from stripping too quickly as once you try to replace a oart you could totally screw up the geometry as the replacement parts could be a different size/scale and then you have to modify again like crazy and re learn how the car handles. The hot lap on the track we use is 8.1 for RWD mini-z brushed motor and I got a few 8.0s with this car, but that took a year to get the car there and that's with AWD so it's not that competitive. We gave all since abandoned our project club with these wltoys cars and are going back to RWD mini-z, but if you have a kid who wants to learn how to race and you don't mind or like tearing a rtr down to parts and rebuilding and then just switch out esc and receiver it's a carvthat at lower speeds is plenty good fir a learner that can eventually graduate to a car that will stay under control at higher speeds (we did change the tires too. Ran narrow 20° slicks in front and wude 10° radials in the rear. Tried 30/20 and it was too much grip for this cars front end to handle as the steering even when dialed in on the radio is super twitchy. It's cool to see other guys who take rc seriously work with these cars. It is fun if you're into that part of the hobby, but I wouldn't recommend for anyone other than kids if they're not into modifying the hell out of a car just to make it drive how a car should lol (I do like that so it was fun for me)

[@TheShopMiniRC]

yep.. we realized that just leaving it stock is the easiest lol. Also, tons of great info! Thanks for watching too!

[@hightorquerc]

The crown gear setup is fine for 4wd but I could never get it to roll smooth enough for my liking when I went rwd

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Yeah, seems rough.

[@SinisterDeeds214]

Damn bro how is it every rc I start researching to buy...you already did a video on it lol. We need a full rc tour!

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Hahha. You’ve covered a lot. Maybe some day I’ll do a full rc walk through. Might be a long boring video tho. lol

[@SinisterDeeds214]

@TheShopMiniRC my collection is growing faster then I can mod them lol. I got too many projects on the bench lol.

[@TheShopMiniRC]

@@SinisterDeeds214 I totally understand that.

[@lixnnibblez3193]

RWD Still Rules

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Yeah. It does.

[@slickpuller8801]

RWD BABY EVEN THOUGH IM AN (AWD DRIFT) NICE VID. I HAVE THE FULL RCHEN SETUP DEFINITELY INTERESTING BUILD ... AMAZING UPGRADED ELECTRICS.

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Thanks for the watch!

[@dylen15]

RWD RULES

[@TheShopMiniRC]

They sure do!

[@JohnStenborg]

…⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️…i use radiomaster mt12 multi protocol to bind and fully edgetx programmable…with my budget customized wl-toys drifters…satisfying cheap diy tinkering building and driving…5 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ value…recommended…but keep away from the horrible ali n bang alu bling bling…

[@TheShopMiniRC]

thats a good idea with the MT12. The worst part of the WLToys is the damn remote!

[@beratsbuilds]

I just got into Mini-Z racing and I was surprised that most of the people in the tracks around us run AWD cars (GL-Racing GLA mostly). I had a WLtoys laying around for some time, I wonder if I can get it to run decently on track while staying AWD. It'll be an interesting challenge at least :) BeaverHobbies video series is tremendously helpful, too. What I observed from WLtoys and other cars is that most of the time the plastic parts outperform the aluminium ones with some work to clean them from molding rests and such. Did you stop driving this car after this video or did you try it out afterwards?

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Interesting they all run AWD. Are you in the US? (AWD is popular outside the US) I still run it every once in a while, but the electronics frustrate me. I need to just put a good transmitter on it.

[@ayatoayato99]

Moi je commence je t’ai découvert Merci pour tes vidéos Je suis sur mini z pour apprendre Par contre j’ai un ami qui a une mini fg Et Je lui ai refait tout les flex mou en mettant du carbone que j’ai forgé Mais mtn il veux ta plaque en fer lol Merci pour tes vidéos ta découverte Simple question pour la science si tu part su une 8s qu’elle rapport privilégie tu ? Et pourquoi Moi je bidouille c’est pas de mon niveau Mais ça me permet de me faire la main Un support en pexiglace decoupé aux lazer en 7 mm ne serait il pas judicieux tu penses ? Merci à toi pour ce partage de connaissance

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Thank you for watching. I do not understand your question "Simple question pour la science si tu part su une 8s qu’elle rapport privilégie tu ? Et pourquoi "????

[@papotv85]

I got lucky i just put together a carbon fiber chassis with all aluminum upgrades and have very little play. Only issue i have is the drive shaft i got has wobbly gear. Buying new one to see if its better. Looking for taller wheels, any ideas?

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Haven’t really looked at taller wheels. Any mini z AWD wheels should work though.

[@TylerCummings-st4ko]

Hey man what motor is that I tried to pull the gear off an destroyed the stock engine

[@TheShopMiniRC]

We did the same thing the first item. :( This is a PN racing motor.

[@papotv85]

Which bearing did you use for the drive shaft center support. The one that goes through the motor mount.

[@TheShopMiniRC]

what ever came with the original car

[@roadstar499]

Question,does this car track perfectly straight once trimmed...or will it go a little to right or left after a turn.. does stock servo and linkage perform well.thanks...

[@TheShopMiniRC]

I think it would if you had better electronics in it.

[@roadstar499]

Actually just got it...tracks amazing..no dead zone...i will service diffs most likely...but for $37 to my door its amazing...and i have a lot of cars...thanks

[@TheShopMiniRC]

@@roadstar499 where did you find it for $37?!

[@roadstar499]

Aliexpress...many venders sell these,prices vary daily

[@roadstar499]

Yes this 1/28 wltoys still comes with this big radio that has dead zone..both my cars radios are the smaller wl radios which are better control...

[@sontoshi25]

What tool do you use to remove the wheels? My wheels has a bolt and I can't remove it to change it. Thanks in advance!

[@TheShopMiniRC]

4mm box socket hex wrench.

[@imy004]

I still prefer all stock plastic and alloy chassis because it acts like a heatsink and the stock parts are not too loose or tight compare to the alloy parts, maybe if im gonna get a carbon chassis i might need a 25mm mini fan and if im gonna get a alloy parts i probably need to sand paper the joints to make it abit loose it needs alot of work 😕

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Great points.

[@papotv85]

You have any trouble with the driveshaft?

[@TheShopMiniRC]

No not so far.

[@roadstar499]

I think it could have been modified with diffs,radio,and tires...mine has the better radio already...i drive my drift truck and new blue version 1/28 rally and they handle great on tile,carpet and concret...theres no rc tracks in my area anyway...Mini Z are pretty cool but way over priced imo...

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Thanks for sharing and watching!!

[@nickgrady3221]

Just getting into this, are they selling some of these with better radios and if so how do you know? I would love to be able to get one of these to kinda tip my toes into mini-z racing to see if it is even something I might enjoy. The nearest track to me is over an hour so I want to make sure I am going to be good at it or at least have fun before I sink money and time into it. And thanks for the video TSMRC! Hope you end up messing with it more and educate at least me on how to make it a little more reliable and competitive.

[@TheShopMiniRC]

@@nickgrady3221 I’d highly recommend seeing what your local guys race for their beginners class before you buy anything. You don’t want to buy something you can’t use at the track.

[@nickgrady3221]

@@TheShopMiniRC there is no class for this, and the closest local shop is too far from me to make it regular. So I was hoping to get a couple, make a small fun track in my basement, and slowly try and get some friends into them. But I want to keep it affordable while still getting the best bang for our bucks so to speak.

[@TheShopMiniRC]

@@nickgrady3221 there you go then. The WLToys will be great as a budget option for a home built track!!

[@iansadkovich197]

How much does that beast weigh?

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Car and battery (no body) is 170. With body is 203g

[@flycheewei]

Can you try update electronic like transmitted.esc .

[@TheShopMiniRC]

You can change them for another brand/model but you can’t updated the existing. It’s set from the factory.

[@johnrobert2148]

I remember buying the aluminum diff for k989 back in 2020. And as Beaver's Hobbies said, they are bad. But you can make them smooth by putting it on drill. And using a flat filer to smoothen the pressure plates like a cnc machine. And there's is a new upgrade. A shaft with a gear set that is metal. Now it can handle the power better. By a mile. Also. The control arms are better off left stock. The aluminum control arms just makes the car wider, limits the travel of the suspension, and you''ll have a hard time putting wider tires. Aluminum turn buckles are the only thing you really need for suspension upgrades.

[@TheShopMiniRC]

Thanks for the info!

[@chrisdutcher9565]

Link to that chassis kit?

[@TheShopMiniRC]

I’ll have to look. It was 4 mo ago. Lol

[@Nerdygeekrcfpv]

Lmmfao, I bought the same upgrade chassis & seen the same problem, Wltoys is just a waist of money 💰, poorly designed & bad electronics, I’ll never waist another dime on there RC cars !!!

[@TheShopMiniRC]

To be Fair, they are pretty cheap compared to the other stuff out there. My biggest issues were with the upgrade parts from other companies. Those aluminum “upgrades” are not very good.

[@WillieBeard]

I had a guy show up at the track with a WLtoys K989 and he beat 2 Mini-Z MR04’s…so yeah, do some homework before you make comments that make you sound clueless.

[@williamsaloka9043]

It's great to have the best car, but it's all about the driving. Throwing money around will not guarantee a win........Driving skills will. Remember that.

[@Nerdygeekrcfpv]

@@WillieBeard I said I wouldn’t waist another dime on one , I don’t care what he did , with one !!! Have a nice day sir