#1 Engine Flush Kit - What's In BG MOA - And How Does it Work As A Flush Kit With EPR

[@FordBossMe]

Here is a kitten that I found on Amazon that has all three of them for 50 bucks which is really cheap because normally you pay about $25 a can Plus in today's market amzn.to/3Y5F3p3 Here is one of the many Bee Gee videos I have that are very popular and if you guys want more I'll give you more kzbin.info/www/bejne/apvIhKqBlN14mc0

[@johncraig406]

does that "kitten" meow at you 🙂

[@johnnypipe]

I've been using 44K and MOA for the past 30 years. A good friend of mine just retired from BG after 35 years of service. I asked him many years ago what MOA stood for thinking it was some kind of secret chemical compound. He looked at me with his big grin and said, it stands for Motor Oil Additive. Just that simple.

[@rfcasey]

MOA - Motor Oil Additive

[@thecarguide4303]

Rich, you are beyond appreciated and a true advocate brother. Educating folks about quality options in automotive is my passion, and as you know BG is my baby. Thank you again man

[@jamram9924]

I knew our BG representative for many years before he retired. BG 44k, EPR and MOA are excellent products. We added MOA to differentials on trucks to keep the fluid cooler, reduce wear and maintain differential gears clean and pit free. They have a much broader line of additives now for gummed up/sludged engines due to the tighter tolerances and extended oil intervals. They also have manufacture their own engine oil that contains BG MOA. Excellent post!

[@troublemakingpups5787]

Rich, I appreciate everything you are doing to educate us about oils, cleaning agents, and other lubricants. 😎🐶

[@coreybabcock2023]

Yes rich is such a blessing to us all he's smart and concise about information

[@jeffsullivan3101]

I'm with you on BG products buddy, I've been using 44K for 20+ years and think it does a excellent job. I have been using EPR with MOA about every 2 years and when i did the valve covers on my Toyota Camry and the wife's BMW the heads on both were spotless with almost no varnish at all. Great stuff.

[@drdiabeetus3061]

Big fan of BG products. I’ve used a lot of their stuff, including EPR, MOA, 44K, ATC Plus, and RF-7. They have all worked great for their specific applications. The ATC Plus worked some magic on high mileage Honda Civic AT that was neglected by the previous owner. Shifts super smooth now, feels like new, but over 180k mi on it.

[@milandjukic3589]

Morning Rich from the uk ))) 🇬🇧 great blog as usual 👊

[@jefweb5043]

Ha! Talk about timing... it's a known thing that Google listens to conversations; but the timing of this video is eerie! On Saturday, I did the EPR/MOA treatment on my '05 LeSabre w/85k mi. Now, I might have done something I shouldn't have...but when I added new oil, in addition to the MOA, I also added 28oz or so of Marvel Mystery Oil. I used the 20k miles full syn Super Tech due to the excellent additive package you mentioned. I thought I'd run that maybe 1500-2000mi, and put some fresh oil in. I can't begin to say how much I've learned from from you! Thanks, Rich! Oh-i've sent off a virgin sample of the Cen-Pe-Co full syn 5w30 for shits and grins. Once that comes back, I'll scan &email you their findings.

[@johncraig406]

Thanks Rich, never looked at that BG MOA product before. Looks like it might be useful in a 7.3L PowerStroke diesel engine

[@louiscardinale1701]

Rich, thank you for all you do.

[@FordBossMe]

My pleasure!

[@allhemi1222]

Hey Rich, I’m glad I could help! I have been using BG products for the better part of 15+ years now and use the EPR and MOA at every oil change.

[@FordBossMe]

I'm glad you were able to send that to me it's very interesting and I appreciate the help when people do the work and then share it with me so I don't have to do everything myself

[@RickWalshCleaning]

I have done 4 engines with BG so far ... it is freaking awesome. Seriously.

[@mlieser1230]

The BG reps put on some interesting demonstrations for their products. They had a machine that had two ball bearings. One motor driven and the other fixed. It utilized a beam style torque wrench to show how much force was applied to the bearings. The rep lubed the bearings with the motor oil we used and pushed on the torque wrench. With little pressure the bearings seized. He then applied BG MOA (Motor Oil Additive) to the bearings. He really leaned on the torque wrench and the bearings wouldn't seize. The motor kept spinning. We sold BG MOA at oil changes. We also sold Supercharge and 44K fuel system cleaner. BG products definitely work.

[@FordBossMe]

I remember people speaking about this

[@MarkJones-jb7iz]

They just gave us these kits and did this exact demo. He held 80 more foot lbs of torque on the BG additive than normal engine oil. Truly amazing

[@William-13]

@@FordBossMe Since BG MOA is about a 5W20 according to Blackstone labs, in theory it would help soak into bearing surfaces and other parts. BGMOA is seemingly trying to do something similar to Marvel mystery oil by also soaking into tight metal surfaces. It would be very interesting to see a comparison between BGMOA and the PAO based Marvel Mystery oil. p.s. the regular sized can of BG epr is of course very powerful as we both know. A single can of Bgpr dramatically pulled so much tar out of my father's truck engine. It looks nearly brand-new inside. I noticed during the flush with BGEPR that there weren't large chunks of sludge coming out; but just charcoal black oil like that of on your flushing videos. Other flushes work decent as well but they are not as nearly as powerful nor safe as BGEPR.

[@tonybrunetti]

Great Video I use BG MOA with every oil change, I am also a big user of Amsoil as well. I do like both companies I think they both make great products that it why I used them both respectively.

[@happygarage6310]

I appreciate all this research you share, today for the first time in 20years I bought a fram filter for my upcoming oil change. I haven’t deviated from my normal pennzoil flavor, I’ve always had good running engines with pennzoil, but never w I understand a bit more why that is.

[@happygarage6310]

Now I understand why. Wish I could edit my comments

[@free2chasehappy]

The results that BG gives is absolutely amazing. The price can be a little high. A good alternative is Berryman from my own experience, add about 2oz to every quart of oil and let it run to operating temp from a cold start, allow to cool and drain.

[@zacharycallicutt8475]

Been using BG EPR & MOA for every oil change since my ford dealer made it mandatory starting after my first oil change. 5k oil change using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum on my 2019 f150 2.7EB

[@standhd]

I’m about to do the small BG kit to my wife’s 2007 Lexas. Last year she had me take it to a quick lube place. And yes; it was THAT place. I was a little hesitant at first when I watched your vid about the one that blew up and they tried to cover it up. So before I left, I did check the oil. It was hard to see it on the dipstick because it was new oil, but I ran a paper towel over the dipstick numerous times to make sure. The next day we did a road trip and the check engine light came on! When we got back home, I hooked up my scanner and it popped up a VVT code! I’m like; YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME!!!! So I cleared the code and checked the oil again. It was about a quarter of a quart low so I topped it off with MMO….HAHA. The light hasn’t come back on. So going forward, I’m doing the oil changes to her car starting with the BG treatment. The car is coming up on 150,000 miles and I think I’m going to use Valvoline full synthetic high mileage. There is MOA in my F150 and I’m going to give her the full BG treatment as well after I do my wife’s car. BG RULES! Stay Blessed!

[@HarrisChoudhry]

I'm also going to try this on my 2007 Lexus, the 2GR engine is apparently infamous for burning oil due to piston rings getting stuck

[@bearing_aficionado]

I just used this stuff recently and let me tell you that 44k is some awesome stuff!

[@AustinsCoins]

I think 44k was the smelliest fuel additive I ever used. I didn't even have my nose near the can, just as soon as I opened it started smelling it.

[@jessecain1646]

Good day to you Mr Rich I hope you and your family are doing well

[@cliffweb03]

Thanks!

[@johngrimm6947]

Rich thank you for this particular BG Products video. My 2011 F150 5.0 2-wd w/+230K miles needs this stuff. Next week I'm going to include BG kit to my oil/filter (FoMoCo FL-500S) 3k change. Fuel system to get benefit of 44K Platinum. I have been using PNZ Oil Ultra Platinum 5W30 grade changing oil/filter every 3k. This next oil change after EPR & MOA treatment will run PNZ Oil 5W30 Platinum High Mileage Red label this 3k cycle. Any thoughts or recommendations. Enjoy that vacation & relax!!

[@FordBossMe]

Good combo

[@jmyers6175]

Use BG MOA, 44K, and MGC multigear concentrate add to manuals, diffs, and transfers. Pennzoil platinum 0w20 charge every 4k. Also coolant additive and Fridge Quiet to A/C.

[@brentmccardle701]

Is BG MOA now compatible with diesels. I know when I was a Ford tech BG rep told us to never use the MOA on a diesel when they came to our shop and did their product demo.

[@kkovler1]

newer version is called platinum 44k. They are very good but expensive, so I never let my engine get to the point that it needs them! The demo machine they use is called Big Bubba!

[@FordBossMe]

The newer version is not 44k, 44k has been out for a while you're getting 44k confused with something else

[@KentuckyRanger]

After listening to Rainman Ray constantly talk about this stuff, I got some for my oil change today. I added the EPR, drove for about 20 min or so, and when I went to drain the oil, it was pitch black, and smelled awful! I let the oil drain for about a half our, to make sure it all came out, then added the MOA, and 7 quats of 5W30 synthetic Penzoil. I have a 2015 Subaru Outback, with 76k miles on it. It hasn't been giving me any issues, but I figured, it's time to start treating it with a little more TLC, than just changing the oil every 4k miles. Not sure it it's going to do anything noticeable, but it's cheap insurance for the future.

[@FordBossMe]

This stuff is the real deal

[@TurnThemWheels]

It’s safe to drive with the EPR? I thought it was made to flush / clean and idle only with 1500 rpm’s?

[@KentuckyRanger]

@@TurnThemWheels I wouldn't add it and drive hundreds of miles. I drove aprox 20 miles, to get it through the system and let it do its thing.

[@TurnThemWheels]

@@KentuckyRanger gotcha

[@wesleym.2962]

What should I use on a used Chevy Equinox 1.5L (Turbo) that I just bought with 66k miles?

[@03kwam65]

Always use bg at work knew the induction kit wasnt the only one we dont have 109 at my job my car burns oil jus ordered a 4 pack n try it out

[@jaycarl1562]

Do you use periods at work? Cause you don't here.

[@user-et1mi9ck2n]

I found 2 cans of bg44k in my garage hiding. Both cans 10 years old. Is it still usable?

[@lew708]

Some people think stuff like this is “snake oil” but I don’t. I equate it to home theater systems in that my Onkyo Home Theater receiver is nice and I didn’t think it could sound any better until I added an upgraded DAC to it. It already has a DAC but if they put one in at the quality level that I added, then they would have to charge more. I feel the same for oil companies. They need the oil to be a decent price so that it would sell, so while it may have detergents and slick additives in it already, it may not be of the highest quality because then they have to charge the consumer for it and they possibly wouldn’t pay that price. So products like this allow you to increase the quality of detergents and slick additives to your engine oil…If you’d like too!…That’s how I look at it.

[@weatherwatcher5303]

Would this stuff help release stuck oil rings?

[@justinroy7829]

Just wanted to say I love and appreciate your videos and information. Would you recommend this kit in 09 jetta 2.0l L4 tdi?

[@FordBossMe]

Yes those are dirty engines and could definitely use the help

[@justinroy7829]

@@FordBossMe I never owned one untill a few months ago. My hands were black for days after the first oil change. Lol thanks again for the knowledge

[@jeffreynowak1294]

I also hear that Dealers have big profit margins baked in to BG Products too!!!

[@Dstromb232]

Hello have you every used or tested Motorkote?

[@user-pu7rl2il6o]

I find out the Mobil 1 additive is pretty mediocre, but my car runs 0w-16, so I add half a can of MOA every oil change to boost the additive. I got it for $25 for a 5 qt when Walmart was on sale. Other brands of 0W-16 are very hard to find in local shops, or very expensive. I don't use 0W-20 because the new Toyota engine doesn't have a mechanical oil pump and Oil pressure-controlled variable timing valve gear but was replaced with electronic motors. This oil pump and timing motors are calibrated with 0W-16. If you use 0W-20, then under the same oil pressure, the actual oil flow may be less than the design value. I am very happy to see the MOA report of the new formula today because I know that this thing is very useful. I see a lot of supercar dealers use MOA and there must be a reason for that. I don't know what is the TBN of BG MOA? I checked online and it was around 32, but that was the previous recipe and now it is the API SP recipe. I hope 0W-16 motor oil from Valvoline and Pennzoil makes it to Walmart soon. As far as the current online price is concerned, they all cost 35 a barrel. My BG MOA+Mobil 1 25+7(half can)=32. Personally, I think it will be better.

[@CL-yp1bs]

Bro you have been lied to. This is NOT TRUE except in like -40 Celsius arctic conditions. Please go to Toyota Australia and read the Australian owners manual. It shares the same M20 engine, this is also applicable for the 11th gen corollas with the 2zr engine (except it was 0w-20) and yours is 0w-16. This is what Toyota uses from the factory because it works best in ALL environments and most importantly GIVES THE BEST FUEL ECONOMY. The whole world is going green. Global warming, electric vehicles. In the usa there is CAFE (Corporate average fuel economy aka tax breaks for Toyota for getting better fuel economy) but even outside the US there is pressure from environmentalists to increase fuel economy or get rid of Internal combustion vehicles. The 0w-16 is NOT required to be used in your engine. Toyota specifies that you can use 0w-20, 5w-30, or even higher. Please read the owners manual in this link, its the Australia owners manual for the 12th gen corolla (2020 and newer) and does not lie to you like the USA version does that says "only use 0w-16" - I have an 11th gen corolla and which specs 0w-20 and i run 5w-30 or 0w-30. I have a friend with a 12th gen corolla that specs 0w-16 and he runs 0w-20. No problems, only better protection. Believe me the engineers that designed these engines did not want this water thin oil. In Japan they do not run water thin oil like this so for people to say the Japanese engineers recommend it is FAR from the truth, its due to fuel economy and the engine was built to work adequately with the thin oil, but it is always a trade off between protection and fuel economy. Do not let these clowns on the forums persuade you that "what the manufacturer recommends is needed" when it comes to these Toyota oil recommendations, the whole VVTI valve thing is BS and does not happen unless your running 10w-40 in sub zero temps. toyotamanuals.com.au/docs/corolla-sedan-owners-manual-apr-20-jul-21/ If you want your engine to run to 300k, 400k, etc. Dont run that water in your engine. I do not recommend going more than one grade thicker, just simply one grade. That will do the trick, and only sacrifice 0.5-1mpg. If youre spec'd for 0w-16 (the new M20 engines) then run 0w-20. If youre spec'd for 0w-20 (2zr-fe etc like the 11th gen corollas) then go to 0w-30 or 5w-30. As for other vehicle manufacturers I am not sure, but i live eat and sleep Toyota and i am beyond positive of this regarding the 2zr and m20 engines. Toyota even has it listed in the owners manual, just not the USA one.

[@user-pu7rl2il6o]

@@CL-yp1bs My only concern is whether the control program calibration is the same for US and Australian market cars. If US market cars are rated for lower fuel pump pressures for better fuel economy, thicker oil could damage the engine. For example, at 3000mpg, the American oil pump is 10psi, and the Australian oil pump is 12psi. The high-pressure oil pump can be compatible with a thinner oil, but the low-pressure oil pump cannot be compatible with thicker oil. Of course, I don't think 0W-20 will hurt the engine, because the viscosity of 0W-16 and 0W-20 overlap in some range, but I also think 0W-16 is perfectly fine if I don't drive aggressively, and I change the oil every 5,000 miles. My driving mileage of 300,000 to 400,000 miles will take 30 years, and I will probably have a new car by then. After 30 years, even if the engine can still run, many electronic systems may have begun to fail. The newer cars will not last as long as the cars from the 1990s-2010s. Too many parts have changed from metal to plastic. When the car reaches a certain age, it may not be worth for repairing.

[@steven4894]

​@@CL-yp1bs Very true.👍

[@user-mg5gi1zh9o]

Can i use this bg product in full synthetic oil

[@mustanggeek8333]

Have you ever tested Motorkote Hyper Lube?

[@dellsucksass]

Since I got my 08 Grand Marquis back in August 2017, it had a severe spark knock/pinging issue at high rpm. I tried colder spark plugs, fuel from different stations, none of which worked. In 2021, I started doing numerous engine flushes (Liqui Moly, STP) none of them seemed to clean anything. Starting in early 2022, after using 5 cans of BG EPR (one can at each oil change for a total of 5 oil changes last year) the issue finally went away and it hasn’t returned. Last oil change I did in November with the EPR, oil only had about 1,200 miles on it and after the EPR, it had the color of dark roast coffee. I never use cheap or store brand oil, only Valvoline,Pennzoil, Mobil 1 Euro. I always take care of my car, but I don’t know what previous owners maintenance records were, but I have a strong suspicion that cheap oil was used. Currently running Valvoline Extended Protection 0W20 (for winter) and a Napa Platinum oil filter and everything is nice and quiet thanks to the EPR!

[@megason2]

How does the seals hold up to the epr? I got an older honda that I got the epr moa kit to run though it to hopefully free up the pistion rings, I've already did a 3 hour soak with a delco top cleaner and went from 2 qts of oil in 300 miles to 1qt in 1000 miles cylinders look good it just had a lack of maintenance hoping the epr and moa will free up the last bit of gunk

[@FordBossMe]

I addressed that in the video, just fine

[@MerpSquirrel]

Magnesium and Calcium is the same stuff in your Tums anti acids. Thats to get rid of the acidic situation in there.

[@jhanson16]

Would you recommend this on a 2014 F150 with an ecoboost 3.5 with 123k as maintenance? Love your videos!!!

[@FordBossMe]

It wouldn't really hurt anything but they say that you need to be careful using the epr with the hot turbos

[@jhanson16]

@@FordBossMe No issue adding the MOA though you dont think? Id like to keep it running as best it can. You seriously inspire me to become a mechanic at 40 yrs old! Love your info!!

[@zero-ol2nt]

Trying to organize all these BG products. So first step you do the 44k for the fuel system. Then you do the Dynamic engine cleaner then add new oil with filter followed by the EPR which is the same as the Rinse oil in the big jug? Last step would be to add the MOA. Do I have that right?

[@FordBossMe]

Email me [e-mail]

[@richgrada4322]

Hey Rich. What's your take on over filling your engine oil by 1 to 2 quarts? I've had this happen on several occasions by different shops. I don't know When they fill it with the bulk oil fill hose if their gages are off or they do it to be sure the engine going to have enough oil after 5k or 6k of driving? Are there any long term problems with running an engine that's over filled?

[@FordBossMe]

No good, excessive crank whip can aerate oil and cause consumption

[@richgrada4322]

@@FordBossMe Thanks for the reply Rich...

[@GainingDespair]

Detergents in motor oil do not clean I do understand it sounds contradictive but their purpose is to bind themselves to small pieces of sludge, and carbon floating around inside the motor. If it chemically bonds itself to all the carbon receptors of the sludge/carbon it can't further link up, and grow larger. It essentially keeps it small, and helps prevent it from sticking pre-existing sludge inside the motor (making the problem worse) and allowing it to circulate in the oil until it's picked up by the oil filter. They're not capable of cleaning, they're only able to prevent the problem from becoming worse, they can however grab any sludge which comes free during an oil change, or soot created during the oil change. The reason they can't clean is due to sludge being a polymer, a type of plastics, plastics are made from oil, and heat, it's how we make our plastics. Motors can create their own in small quantities if enough impurities are in the oil. Motor oil lacks the capability of breaking down polymers, some chemicals can do it well, but the most effective method (long term) is to add polar ingredients to the motor oil. Polar chemicals are kinda magnetic in a way, they attach themselves to metal if given the chance, some forms of polymers are also polar. Sludge is polar, so by putting polar chemicals all over the motor it limits sludges ability to bind itself inside the motor. This allows it to circulate in the oil, there the detergents bond to it, and allow it to stay in the oil until removed by the oil filter.

[@FordBossMe]

You can't just watch one video and then draw up some kind of determination that you feel like you need to explain things to me I do thousands of dollars worth of testing and I dig into this stuff pretty heavily detergent to do more than one thing so some of what you said is true some of what you said is not completely true

[@GainingDespair]

@@FordBossMe Ask Blackstone if I'm wrong than. See your problem is you think the entirety of my life is watching 1 video, you assume you know. You read a piece of paper from someone significantly more qualified on the matter wrote out for you to be easily understood. I can read a book, doesn't make me an author. You can read a piece of paper, doesn't make you a petroleum engineer. You know just enough of the subject to have absolutely no clue what else you don't know. You don't have to agree with me, we can disagree, but your cockiness, and attitude instead of explaining why I'm wrong shows this topic is far above your head. I don't pretend to be an expert, I was neither rude, nor condescending in my original post, simply wished to explain something. As the saying goes "what can be asserted without evidence can also be dismissed without evidence." Prove me wrong, though I genuinely doubt you will be able too, either way I'll be waiting.

[@tonybernheim8365]

Detergents in Motor Oil are solvents...So..Lets say.. The solvents in ICE and Transmissions/Transfer Cases/ Axles/Steering Units.....

[@GainingDespair]

@@tonybernheim8365 No, detergents in oil do not act as solvents that would degrade the oil and evaporate once the motor reaches operating temperature. Instead, the purpose of detergents in oil is to bind to the carbon byproduct of combustion. By binding to the carbon, detergents prevent it from sticking to the interior of the motor. This helps to keep the carbon in suspension until the oil filter can remove it. However, if people extend their oil change intervals, they may run out of detergents. This can lead to the formation of sludge, as the carbon is then able to attach itself to the surfaces of the motor before it ever reaches the filter.

[@loganclausen2228]

Would you reccomend this on lower mileage vehicles? 30k or less miles. Usually change the oil anywhere from 3 to 5k in my 3.5eb.

[@FordBossMe]

Ehh 1x a year pr 1x every 2

[@silicon212]

This is awesome news, we just started selling this at my shop. What are your thoughts on the Justice Brothers additives?

[@FordBossMe]

I don't know much about them

[@FordBossMe]

I love bg products

[@donmadden9430]

What do you think about adding this to my Lexus Rx 350-I bought it with 177,000 miles doesn’t burn oil runs nice just afraid to use this as I never used anything like it before HELP!

[@FordBossMe]

I think you should be all right

[@kurtfirestone2761]

Would the BG help or not with a 2019 f150 3.5eco with 50,000 mi with oil change intervals of 5k since new or is it for high mileage engines

[@brettfrimmer6567]

Works great at any time. Love MOA specifically

[@FordBossMe]

Is another one of my BG epr MOA videos kzbin.info/www/bejne/apvIhKqBlN14mc0

[@kendavis1198]

Interesting Rich. I been watching U Tube Videos on Additive's in General, ArchOil, Lucas Oil, TVT Green, FR3, BG MOA, and a few others. This area of Oil and additives If you will is a Tough Nut to Crack. I mean who's stuff is safest to use, Who's Stuff Do You You Use and feel safe with and know that it Isn't Clogging up Small Filter Screen's and orifices on Phaser Solenoid's and stuff like that. Then you have the folks that say "Don't Use Any Additives" if your Engine is Solid and in good operating condition, or you're using a FULL SYNTHETIC OIL??? These articles / Information are to say the Least "Confusing" since none of us want to cause a Problem or Damage to perhaps a NEW Engine? I don't know who's Stuff to use "Safely" and without Concern, Or, Just Don't use anything at al. I wanna keep things like New, but not cause Issues doing it? 🤷‍♂

[@joederringer6716]

@FordBossMe I have a 2016 Toyota Tundra (93k miles +) I got caught up in the Toyota 10k mile oil change scam (I was ignorant to the whole synthetic oil 25% scam also) so my truck started to burn some oil. Luckily I acted on it right away. I switched to Amsoil signature series after seeing Project Farms KZbin videos. I also used Amsoil flush,PI, upper cylinder lubricant (every tank) and engine Fog and changed my PVC valve that needed changed. I am not using oil like I was, but am interested in trying the BG flush ( can’t think of name as I am writing this). If I used the BG product and do the flush do I have to worry about plugging up my oil filter or does it dissolve and flush everything out with the used oil? Should I try this or since I’m not using oil now don’t worry about it? If I would do this should I add the BG MOA or that’s not necessary because I am using Amsoil? I am coming up on a 100k miles do you recommend me changing out the up stream O2 sensors? My fuel economy has been dropping slightly and I am thinking that the O2 sensors might need changed out. As you worked in a Dealership why does the Dealership push the OEM transmission fluid and try to deter customers from using aftermarket? ( I bought Amsoil ATF that meets Toyota WS standard and the Dealership gave me a hard time and made me sign a waiver even though my trucks out of warranty) truck shifts better with the 1/3 Amsoil fluid then it does with the Toyota WS ( which isn’t the best fluid IMO) I appreciate your videos and appreciate you pushing for people to be nice to one another! It’s very refreshing! Thank You! Joe

[@FordBossMe]

Running moa isn't necessary but they recommend it Bg epr is an actualy legit flush and any of the others is not really They do some light cleaning but nowhere near bg

[@nicholasselvaggi54]

Simple and excellent 😁

[@frankblack5129]

off topic but on BG… rep wants to sell a BG anti squeal kit every brake job EVEN with Motorcraft pads and rotors (not just aftermarket pieces) What’s your take this treatment ?

[@FordBossMe]

It works just not necessary every kit, use it on cheaper pads

[@T6Tarek]

Would you suggest the whole big dad cleaning system for use on a 3.5 ecoboost

[@FordBossMe]

I only recommend the big cleaning system the $300 kit if that's the one you're talking about for engines that are on the fritz of going out or they're starting to have sludge build up

[@T6Tarek]

@Ford Boss Me yes I was talking about that kit. No issues just seen your videos on it and looked good.

[@johnmanos5121]

Ok I have corvette that takes 6.7 quarts, and tundra that takes 8 quarts do I dilute with oil on 6 guart of engine cleaner, or do I have to buy 2 engine cleaners for each vehicle

[@FordBossMe]

You take the cleaner and you dump it in the engine oil that's in the engine the old stuff that's in there you dump the cleaner in with what's already there and you run it and then you drain all the crap out and put fresh stuff in

[@brucemyler2642]

What can you do keep your valves clean or how can you clean them if they need it on a direct injection motor? I have 30k miles on mine. It is still running great. Thanks

[@nunzo44]

Bg induction service.

[@FordBossMe]

It's almost impossible honestly, induction flush every 15k

[@jeremeyrichards7755]

Do you recommend or is it safe for me to do the bg engine flush and rinse on my new motor im about to hit 30k is that the right interval for engine flushes?

[@FordBossMe]

I wouldn't do the big full engine restoration kit it wouldn't hurt every once in awhile to do the smaller can and then follow up with a can of BG Moa

[@jeremeyrichards7755]

@@FordBossMe okay only reason why is because I use amsoil and I change it every 10k on my 2010 dodge ram 1500 5.7l I do have top off oil but it doesn't burn more then a quart its like .2 to .5 that I burn

[@MrFordguy73]

Are these MOA and EPR ok with turbo EcoBoost engines.?

[@FordBossMe]

Some do it some don't

[@dominator8u281]

have you tested any HPL oils or Rural ring store brand? thanks

[@FordBossMe]

No there's still a lot of oils that I have to test and it cost a lot of money I'm eventually working my way around to it

[@kevinrose4975]

@Ford Boss Me, should I apply the MOA everytime I change my Motul oil?

[@FordBossMe]

It's not necessary

[@kevinrose4975]

@@FordBossMe My Q60S is only 18,000 mil, where in the mileage you think I should apply my MOA?

[@jasondavis160]

2020 Ford fusion 1.5l smokes on startup for about 10 seconds should I try this?

[@FordBossMe]

You could

[@hitechrr]

I'm thinking of putting MOA in my 2023 Harley M8 motor. Do you think that it will lower the viscosity on the 20w50 too much.

[@FordBossMe]

No I really don't think it will but at the same time there's no reason for it to go in the Harley the reason MOA was even made was to counteract the acidity of the engine flush epr

[@FordBossMe]

It's a magnesium supplement that fights acidity after you do an engine flush

[@caseyalexander2244]

​@@FordBossMe What would this high magnesium content mean when the 11 oz can of MOA is added to 5 quarts of oil? I know it would depend on the oil, but all in all, with the can diluted in 5 quarts what would then be a magnesium level you would consider a bit too high?

[@zarAK471]

Do you have to use the moa with new oil after you use a can of 109 EPR and did a flush of the old oil?

[@FordBossMe]

Do it exactly as I said Dump it in the old oil, run it 15min at idle ish and then change everything

[@FordBossMe]

Make sure you have enough room for the quart of it first

[@zarAK471]

@@FordBossMe no I mean, is it recommended to use the oil treatment product which is a different product with the new oil or no need?

[@FordBossMe]

@zarAK471 brother you are killing me here man because I explained it verbatim in the video very very easy I made it Barney style in the video When you put the new oil in you leave just enough room so you can put the little can of BG MOA in with it

[@davidrodgers3110]

I use keen in my superduty

[@henrydiaz7258]

Nice beard bro, what do you use?

[@FordBossMe]

Nashville Beard Company or Chattanooga Beard Company

[@tlaicontact]

Instructions on EPR container says run engine in idle for at least 10 minutes at 1,200 RPM. If in ADDITION to running engine for 10 minutes, will damage be done to engine if the car is driven around for another 50 to 100 miles BEFORE DRAINING out the EPR. Would these extra 50 to 100 miles give more cleaning to the engine or instead would damage the engine?

[@FordBossMe]

No damage won't be done if you run a little longer

[@FordBossMe]

I wouldn't drive it around I'd just high idle it

[@tepetelaplanbuckles246]

Hello there, I have a question, I just changed my oil in my 4 cylinder S10, but I poured 5 quarters of oil, and the capacity is 4.5 quarters. What you recommend, remove the extra oil, or just leave the way it's and don't do it again, thanks.

[@FordBossMe]

I would think that a half of a quart is not that big of a deal but you have to get an idea on whether or not this vehicle starts to smoke or if you start to notice any kind of inherent issues with drivability and if that doesn't happen leave it alone just don't do it again

[@tepetelaplanbuckles246]

Thank you so much for your reply.

[@josephhettiger2711]

Been using BG44K in my Grand National since 87

[@Jyantis]

Can you run the BG MOA with the mystery oil?

[@FordBossMe]

Yeah I'm pretty sure you can there wouldn't be any issues there but at the same time I don't know that you would be able to see the benefit from one versus the other

[@jtugfestiva]

How would you compare BG transmission fluid vs Mercon LV?

[@FordBossMe]

Idk honestly

[@jtugfestiva]

@@FordBossMe would you use LV first then the BG? Of both is ok with you? I’ve got both at work 🤓

[@benstevenz]

How do you hold the engine at 3000 RPMs for 45 minutes ?

[@FordBossMe]

You take a piece of wood or a stick or like a hood strut or a pry bar and you put it in the front of the seat cushion down to the pedal and then you adjust your seat forward until you achieve the RPM that you need

[@benstevenz]

@@FordBossMe Thank you boss man ! Should have thought of that

[@jaycarl1562]

Periods won't hurt you, so use them.

[@scpc2006]

What is the mix ratio for large engines with 7 quarts of oil?

[@FordBossMe]

I don't remember honestly

[@FordBossMe]

1.5ish

[@scpc2006]

@@FordBossMe thanks for your work on the channel.

[@Raeeban]

Can you use it on European cars

[@FordBossMe]

Yes

[@sf7760]

Lspi warning for gdi's

[@jeffreynowak1294]

Oh ya BG, the same company that pushes the pricey fuel induction service at the Dealer. Three cars ago on my 2012 Hyundai Elantra with only 15,000 miles they tried to sell me this. The engine had no issues whatsoever, and it was an MPI Engine ran on top tier Gasoline. Um NO!!!!!!

[@FordBossMe]

Jeff I'm listening to what you're saying here or I should say I'm reading what you're saying here and I understand you're a little emotional by what was tried to be sold to you but you really don't know what you're talking about here bud and I will clear this up in a future video if you stick around long enough for me to actually explain things to you because you're not quite sure and you're speaking about things that you don't know about but I will help you and I will explain these things on why they are pushed

[@jeffreynowak1294]

@@FordBossMe Well I traded it in at over 18,000 miles because I wanted a 2015 Sonata at the time, and no harm was done.

[@nunzo44]

Hyundai gdi's are very dirty engines

[@littlebiggoliath]

My golf 2.0 l TDI had 0,6 l to much oil after I used this 🤣😍. So thats says everything about how much shitty oil it removed and allowed fresh oil to do its job 😍 I filled 4,7 l oil and had to Remove 0,6 l to get to 4,7 l lol 🤣

[@markbulva4188]

Is it legal for sale in Canada.

[@FordBossMe]

Idk

[@markbulva4188]

@@FordBossMe Do you have a link for the site?

[@mahmoudel.hussaini4432]

I'm sorry for the long post but i really like your videos and your feedback is very important for me as you're a respectable professional. I have a 2007 1.6 DOHC Hyundai matrix with a 150k miles, at 100k i started to notice that it consumes around 0.5 quart of oil per 5k, i use fully synthetic 5w40 engine oil and i always change oil and filter at 5k, at 1st i didn't pay much attention as 0.5 quart between oil changes is i guess in normal range specially with high mileage and thin synthetic oil, recently i started to monitor the oil level more closely and i noticed that the consumption increased to about 0.8 quart per 5k , but i noticed as well that i loose most of that amount in the 1st 2-3k and then the rate decreases to stabilize at almost 0.8 quart by the end of the 5k, but i started to add some oil before the 5k mark to stay in the safe side, i have some tickling noise at cold start but it disappears after few minutes, and i have some exhaust smell at cold startup as well but no white smoke other than water vapor in cold mornings, and no white smoke at high revs, one time i decided to move to 10w40 semi synthetic oil as thicker oil may decrease the consumption, but it stayed at the same rate, a lot of mechanics here in my country believe that moving to higher viscosity oil like 20w50 specially that i'm living in a hot country will solve the issue and won't harm the engine, but i don't believe in this theory, i believe that even premium fully synthetic oils will form some sludge and carbon deposits in the engine after a while, so i can imagine what low grade and mineral oils will do inside the engine, it might solve the consumption issue but soon i will need to rebuild my engine and maybe with more expenses coz of the damage that will happen from these oils, anyways i did some troubleshooting to try to pinpoint the cause of oil consumption, i checked the pcv valve and it's working as it should, i did a compression test and the results came very good and almost even on 4 cylinders, so i started to think that probably my problem is bad or stuck oil control rings, after googling a lot i decided to give BG products a shot and hopefully it'll fix my issue , 2 days ago i did the service BG EPR , MOA and 44k to the fuel tank, and coz i was so afraid of trying engine flush with my high mileage i sticked to the manufacturer's directions restrictly , i added only about 200 ml not the whole can from both the EPR & MOA and ran the car on idle (800 rpm) for 12 minutes at operating temperature while on the EPR, this time i added Amsoil oe 5w40 with the MOA , i chose Amsoil coz i found that it has the best NOACK between all other brands at the same viscosity (8.5%) which is something i guess is important in my case to try to reduce the evaporation loss, i drove the car for 150 miles after the treatment, i'm not sure if i noticed any difference in terms of performance and throttle response, but maybe it's a bit better, at cold start i still have tickling noise but for a shorter interval and the exhaust smell is for a shorter interval as well, as for oil consumption it's too soon to judge for sure, i'm thinking if the consumption issue still presists that maybe i have bad valve seals that's why i'm smelling exhaust that burns in eyes at cold starts, i'm not sure if i'm right or not so i'd love to hear your advice and if any further actions that i could take before tearing the engine, thanks a lot and once again so sorry for the elongation.

[@FordBossMe]

It seems to me like you have a valve seal problem and then after it starts it starts to warm up the valve seals seal up

[@FordBossMe]

They do make a product called at-205 that's supposed to help with that type of stuff but I don't know if you can even find it anymore

[@mahmoudel.hussaini4432]

Thanks for your patience, one last thing, if it's a valve seal problem wouldn't be consuming more than 0.8 quart per 5k or it's normal that amount?

[@Raeeban]

Oh so it’s the same thing as liqui moly

[@FordBossMe]

No, liquid molly doesn't even come close

[@normalizedaudio2481]

Scotty Kilmer says engine flush is not good and can break you engine. Scotty is an expert.

[@FordBossMe]

You got to be kidding me there's nothing expert about Scotty I hope you're just trolling right now or joking around

[@user-go3og1nz5c]

Bad for GDI engine!