1947-72 Chevy & GMC Truck Door Hinge Rebuild

website: www.brotherstrucks.com/
TV Host and restoration expert Dave Welch give us this great step-by-step DIY video to take the guesswork out of freshening up your Classic Chevrolet or GMC Pickup door hinges. Worn door hinges are common problem and repairing them is a necessity nearly 100% of the time on these classic trucks. Want to get rid of those saggy doors, this is how you do it! Check out more for your Classic Truck at www.brotherstrucks.com.

[@johnc.wunscheljr2873]

Your videos are always helpful thanks

[@CKID-dv8tq]

Great video 👍

[@joesheppard8000]

Thank you!

[@Robert-un8jc]

Excelente!

[@patrickdonnell3591]

Cool as dirt

[@notspcl9304]

Where can I get replacements for the 2 rectangular door stop pieces?

[@farmerbrown3768]

Seems like everybody has a smart phone anymore....I take pics of my hinge, or any other project before I start my work then go back for reference if I forget.

[@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV]

That's a great idea to add to any routine. We do it here all the time! Thanks for the comment.

[@zacharyvought5597]

This may be a dumb question but is door removal always necessary to rebuild the hinges? I was considering doing one at a time and carefully closing the door in between doing each hinge.

[@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV]

We definitely recommend removing the door. You might be able to do it with out removing it, but why? The fender will already be off AND you're going to have to re-align the door after rebuilding the hinges anyway.

[@zacharyvought5597]

@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thanks for the input. I’ll be working solo and thought it would be tough to get the door back on. Totally makes sense to remove the door though

[@deankay4434]

If the “A” pillar is not bent, and an air hammer won’t work, drill two 1/8” holes for re-alignment later. Once set, wipe a dab of “Seam Sealer” into alignment holes to cover. Sand if needed, but know one will never know. As shown these can be a bear to change and hitting the sintered bronze bushing just a little crooked, will crack or chip them. Besides, we when removed, we get to see more of Dave at his finest! Seriously, those pins need a press to get them out, I have tried an air hammer and it wouldn’t work! If painted nice, I try a hammer first. But take cardboard, curve it to fit between the door and “A” pillar because sometimes you get luck on new cars. Remember you have a boot and wires in your way and the bottom has no room. Old trucks are hard, newer imports with crank windows easy. Then at some point they started “Pinching Ears” on the bottom of the pins. That took the fun out!

[@thedude4632]

I soaked my hinges in diesel fluid over night and they pushed right out

[@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV]

Excellent tip!

[@deankay4434]

If time permits, I like motor oil even though diesel has excellent lubricity qualities, these bushings start of life as brass allow filings. (Best Description) But the machines I saw simply scraped a pile over a funnel shaped cavity, a press with machined “Positive” hardened pin start into the cavity. Roughly half way down, it’s adjustable cam turned on “Induction” heating. About 4 turns of 1/2” solid copper coil. Clock counts down, press retracts as heater shut off, then rather fast, the new sintered bronze bushing popped out into a moving metal bucket as they have 12 presses in a row. It was impressive equipment to watch as us ACDelco guys always wanted to go where parts are made. They had and higher visousity fluid than diesel they fell into for lube and cooling. I guess the may have hardened them a little. Spark plugs come off the line at 90 MPH a 100,000 per minute and fuel pump plastic buckets were injected, cooled while in the machine, then popped out 4 at a time. Stuff we see and use almost everyday was fascinating to watch being made and assembled with one worker, at one station, using a holding fixture simply pushed it home using a pneumatic cylinder. What shocked me the most, truly unexpected at electric fuel pump motors put together. The material shaped like the two magnets, iheld still while a 1” line of epoxy was squirted, then positioned into the metal body. With all assembled, then two were placed into a machine that magnetized the magnets last, just before test fluid, amps, pressure testing and rolled stamp went on case. Green light meant good, Red light ejected bad one. All done at a Delphi plant. Oh yes, they made the “Harley-Davidson” pumps also. Great video Dave, as witness marks or one on the other side would be Mirror image for reference as we get distracted by phone call or mother nature calls! Looking for video on a headliner install with SS ring around outside. Depends where but on those 67-72, there is only about 5/16” between inner and outer skins. I put hard metal fuel line over drill so I don’t ding the shinny side! Stay happy Dave. You are having too much fun! DK, Omaha

[@TheSemtexCow]

It’s 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it’s dark and we’re wearing sunglasses. Hit it Dave!

[@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV]

Nice!