That's exactly one of the first things I did to my '68 Plymouth Fury VIP once I got it back on the road. Later, I had to pull the speedometer cluster for another reason and while I was in there, disconnected it from the ammeter, bolted the wires together and gave it a good wrapping in electrical tape. I hate the ammeter isn't working, but thought it would make it a little extra safer.
@DaveTurnerBassGuitar8 ай бұрын
I almost did the same when I had my IC out, but someone had already done *something* there and I didn’t want to mess with it. Thanks for watching!
@72roadrunnergtx3 ай бұрын
You asked for corrections? That ammeter is not wired correctly at all, by-passed or not. There shouldn’t be any vehicle loads registered on the ammeter while the engine is running. Wired correctly, the ammeter should only register battery charging/discharging current, not any vehicle loads while running. All loads, stock or otherwise, are to be on the alternator side of the ammeter as originally designed. That ammeter is now exposed to way more current stress now than if it’s wiring had been left alone. Appears as though the original alternator feed at the bulkhead connector (12ga black wire) is damaged, removed or failed altogether (high resistance). You are missing the basic understanding of how that charging system functions. The described “under-hood” by-pass also increases the circuit protection level, by more than a factor of 2, of the stock un-fused wiring as it by-passes the stock fusible link too. The stock 12 ga charge circuit wiring and components are now exposed to close to 60+amps of battery current potential in the event of a short as both fusible links would have to open to stop current flow. I’m afraid your dangerous comment may more true than you may think. As a old-time dealer trained master tech with many years of experience in the trade, I see a much less safe electrical mods have been preformed to that car.
@DaveTurnerBassGuitar15 күн бұрын
I will make some modifications based on your feedback, thank you.