1967-1972 F100 Roof install

1968 roof install the hard way!!! I cut off the old roof on a 68F100 and install a used on since they don't make a new replacement. Lots of TIG welding and TIG brazing on this project and wanted to share maybe help some others that are into this type of work. Enjoy and feel free to give me any suggestions on how to make the videos better or any project like this as i am also still learning everyday. Thanks for watching
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#fordpickup #f100 #oldtruck

[@israeltorres8603]

grate job a lot of hard work , first timer , I have 1968 f100 , fixing to do suspension swap from a crown vic. possibly the roof also ,,if I can find a donor like you.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you and good luck with your truck and search for a roof.

[@yeboscrebo4451]

Nice job

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot

[@markwoten6679]

Looks Great 👍

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you

[@willhart7861]

You did an awesome job! I need you here to replace 2 roofs for me haha! I guess someday I'm gonna have to do this same repair if I can find a good donor roof. Great work!

[@carthageclassiccars]

I appreciate it and good luck finding the donor door your roof

[@kylecser7618]

Awesome video you don’t see many videos on doing this with the f100’s so I can see this being very useful for some folks if you ever do a door skin for the f100’s I’d love to see that because that’s how I came across this video

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you that truck needs a lot of metal work, and currently trying convince my wife to let me do some more on it. She likes the "character" dents it has now she says.

[@kylecser7618]

@@carthageclassiccars haha girls and there character am I right ?! But yeah I do love the look so I cAnt even act like I don’t

[@mrww8119]

Thanks for the video. I am in a similar situation as previous owner had installed cab roof markers that leaked. I have my donor roof and am trying to figure out the best place to cut. You mention you would do it different if your donor roof would have been better. Where would you cut the A and B pillars? Thanks

[@carthageclassiccars]

thank you watching, I would actually keep the front lip and drop it straight into the channel and plug or roselette weld it with a MIG. If you look there are other videos of different year f100s earlier then this one where guys use the channel. That is how I would personally do the front lip if your donor roof is in good condition. I do think either the way i did the rear of the roof or like I showed in the video lower on the rear panels into the window is the only two ways of accomplishing this job without too many problems. Good Luck let me know if you get stumped ill see if i can offer any more advice

[@1BSARoadRocket]

How are you going to get filler and paint to stick to the bronze? I've had filler lift up over bronze but I've never had it lift up over steel welds.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Brazing has been around way before filler and different forms of bronze rod has been used in old school bodywork successfully before filler even came along. Using the right base in this case epoxy primer and properly following the MSTS data sheet is key to getting your epoxy to stick to your base material no matter what it is filler, bare metal or SIB. For instance this epoxy needs 120-180 grit on bare metal to adhere properly. If you are using paint directly to metal that is not a direct to metal paint it won't stick well to anything and risk peeling off in the future. I use the bronze regularly and with proper pre perp, wax grease remover and epoxy primer or even etching haven't ever had an issue with it. This is my wifes truck so I see this repair job most everyday and it still looks like it did the day I did it. I hope this might help you out with your future work.

[@1BSARoadRocket]

@@carthageclassiccars I have done one bronze repair and the filler lifted up in under 3 years. I had no filler lift up over any of my actual welds. Granted at the time I just plopped the bondo right over the brass but everything was sanded and clean including the brass. It seems that there are so many stories of paint and filler lifting up over brass that I don't know why anybody would use bronze....especially when you have access to to a tig welder. I once tried to repair an old motorcycle gas tank that had multiple brasing repairs on the bottom to repair cracks. I cleaned and ground down all of the old brasing then re-brased everything. I did this multiple times and every time I was done I pressure tested it and got multiple leaks. Finally I just cut out all of the metal that had any brass on it and welded in all new metal with oxy-acetylene and presto, no leaks on the first pressure test.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@1BSARoadRocket I understand what your saying and with the different amount of primers etc. who knows why it didn't react well and stay adhered with your project. I do agree with joining most panels together especially butt welding a TIG with ER70S rod is the way to go. Where I feel this silicone bronze rod it useful is in that rear roof channel in this video. You would have to heat up the ER70s rod way too much to fill in a gap that large where the SIB melts at such a low temperature you can just pile it in there. Its a similar process to leading in the roof in a lot of factory cars of this era. I also have used it many times in the place of seam sealer for its longevity around edges again keeping the heat out of the seam. Finally I think the #1 use for SIB in the automotive industry is joining metals that are different together. You can join end caps or trim edges made from aluminum or stainless with low heat and basically bond or solder them to mild steel with more longevity then anything else i am aware of.

[@kmnremtp]

You got a video about how you installed the speakers in the top cab corners????

[@carthageclassiccars]

I do not have a video on that but with the headliner insert its pretty straight forward.

[@100texan2]

That’s not a third brake light assuming it wasn’t converted to that by somebody else. Vehicles from that era didn’t have a third brake light there. That’s an exterior light that enables you to see what’s in the bed of the pickup when it’s dark.

[@carthageclassiccars]

That makes sense I have been around a bunch of these trucks and haven't seen it in any of them so I was just assuming. Thanks for the clarification.

[@kapekodbob]

I have to replace my with one like yours. Can you give me a hint here to look ?

[@carthageclassiccars]

I wish I could honestly this roof took me 2 months to find looking through FB marketplace. Depending where you live more then likely there is someone parting out a 2wd long bed that hopefully isn't too rusted at least up top. If you can look in the drip rails see if you can take something with you like a wire brush on a drill to clean out that area so you get a better donor then me. Good luck on your search!

[@markwoten6679]

Why did You TIG instead of MIG? Less splatter

[@carthageclassiccars]

The TIG has a lot less heat, its more controlled, and the weld is a softer weld so it can be hammer and dolly back out without cracking

[@jeremydeaderick1324]

I have to replace my roof also and my drip rail is a mess . I want to fill in the seam on the back as well . My donor roof is perfect and the drip rail is perfect also .I was wondering i”if I cut through the front windshield pillar and then cut the seam like you did if that would be a good way to do it . Also I only have a mig welder .

[@carthageclassiccars]

I know some people that do the roof the way you are talking about and with the mig might be easier to not worrying about warping it. Personally I would watch some videos and tutorials on how to do a chop top on a roof on some of the 40's style cars. I know you aren't lowering the roof but the concept will be the same for your project in the front and maybe give you some tips on how to get the front a pillars back in line perfect. Also just take lots of measurements as you want to make sure that windshield fits back in the truck especially since those are the kind with the seal around that edge that get pushed in the measurement around the front i believe is a bit more crucial. Good luck with you install!

[@jeremydeaderick1324]

Hey man I appreciate you responding back to me . Yea I’m wanting to basically keep most the drip rail from my donor roof . The drip rail on my truck is ate up above the windshield but good on the side so I think the way I’m thinking May be the best . But yea I’m gonna take my time and measure and measure and then measure again

[@jeremydeaderick1324]

By the way I enjoy your videos

[@carthageclassiccars]

thanks

[@davidflanagan7963]

They do sell a roof skin for that.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Trust me At the time of this video they did not, can you show the link for others that might be looking for one.

[@LyleMyers]

@@carthageclassiccarsLMC came out with one summer of 2023. Finally.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@LyleMyers I just looked it up you are 100% correct a little late for my project but hopefully it will be able to help someone else out with their build. That is awesome these trucks are getting some more support. Now I got to convince my wife to let me build the rest of the body for her :)

[@Poor-old-Podunk-plow-boy]

I watch you do your 67 to 72 roof installation .just try to help. but you welded it way too much. if you cut through the windshield pillar and from the rear across from the door under the drip rail to the back window . peace one that away that's least and likely to warp. best weld strongest if you didn't want to swap the cad. but you did it the hard way just giving some advice being a body shop man for 50 years

[@carthageclassiccars]

Not sure if you watched the whole video but I went over why I had to section in the roof this way. The area above the windshield drip rail of the donor roof was all rotten away (you can see it in the clip) so I would have been putting a worse section in then what was already on the truck. What I did was take the best of two roofs and section them together. I also was saying in the video that I would have rather done that for the rear pillars however the customer (wife/boss) wanted it done this way and it was to make her happy. I appreciate the advice, but in general TIG welding the roof barely warped it and honestly only added a few hours of extra time all that still was a lot easier then swapping another cab over that would also have probably been in just as bad shape.