1969 Triumph Daytona T100R Clutch Strip, Inspect & Rebuild.

[@therobots7711]

Very comprehensive, helped me a lot with my T100C clutch. Cheers!

[@benturner7774]

Hey Brian. Thanks for another great lesson! Ive got to remove my cover to re-tap the drain plug (it'd been bodged and leaks). What gasket sealet do you use on reassembly?

[@TheCADengineer]

I normally fit the primary cover gasket to the clutch cover side with a smear of blue Hylomar, then on the engine side of the gasket l put a light smear of grease, that way you can remove and reuse the gasket as it will come off undamaged on the greased side and stay attached on the cover side by the Blue Hylomar.

[@benturner7774]

@TheCADengineer Thanks. When you refit is there a torque setting for the bolts, or is it just a feel thing?

[@TheCADengineer]

@@benturner7774l have never found a torque figure for the casing screws, l think because original the screw heads were for a cross head screwdriver type, however most have now been converted to Allan head screws. Just tighten by feel. I had to fit Helicoils to 2 of mine as they had been stripped by someone over tightening in the past, easily done with the Allan style screws.

[@neilconnolly4366]

Excellent

[@shanetr86]

I just acquired a T100. It was abandoned for over 20 years. The motor runs but the clutch drags too much and I can’t get it into gear. I noticed the oil in the primary case is milky. I’m assuming the primary’s oil was never serviced and moisture entered the case. I know I need to get into the case, inspect the clutch plates, but should I order a new clutch assembly while I’m at it?

[@TheCADengineer]

@@shanetr86 Hi, l wouldn’t order anything until you open it up and have a look as they are renown for clutch drag. Just remove the primary case and strip out the plates, wash all the old oil off the the friction and plain plates with some petrol or solvent, then ruff up the plain steel plates with some course production sand paper. Assembly them back dry and adjust up the 3 pressure springs, test by kicking it over with the clutch lever pulled in and it should be disengage easily. The oil is only there to lubricate the chain. Dependant on the year will determine what oil goes back in as the later T100’s (post 1969 dependant on serial number) share the oil from the engine, earlier versions like my 1968 the oil in the primary case is separate to the engine. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) works well and it only takes a small amount in the bottom of the case (check the manual) and don’t over fill. They all seem to suffer with clutch drag even if they have only been standing for a week or so, they recommend kicking the bike over with the clutch pulled a couple of times the free it off before starting otherwise you struggle to get it into gear. Hope you get it sorted. Regards Brian