1984 Mercedes 300SD W126 - Idler Arm Bushing Replacement

#impalamansgarage1
In this video we replace the idler arm bushings on our W126 300SD.
The rubber was cracking and the steering also felt slightly
looser than normal.
Parts:
Mercedes-Benz Idler Arm Bushing Kit - Febi Bilstein 05841
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...

[@secondlooksformen3836]

Your enthusiasm and humor associated with repairing your Mercedes is a treat to see. Your video shows clearly what you are doing - and your experience and skill make it look easier than I'm sure most of us would find it to be. You are a talented mechanic, sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

[@benholtrop6483]

great video. Enjoyed watching it 🙂

[@robertfinkelstein2787]

Great website by the way and I really do appreciate the videos

[@lorenreyes2855]

Yes most definitely with a lift that was very Well done! If only! Thanks for sharing your great knowledge of these Beautiful classics!

[@gustavoeduardotamadillon6778]

Impalaman's Garage I congratulate you for your videos, you have helped me a lot with my w126, keep making videos, greetings from Ecuador

[@ahmedalsharif5224]

I am grateful for what we have learned, and it is true that I benefit from you, and I have learned a lot from you. Thank you very much

[@MrEspokeY]

You helped me restore my w126 Thank you very much 😀😀

[@mercedesw1264]

Thanks and good job ! 🙏

[@sergiobravo8149]

Exelente.... exelente trabajo... saludos amigo

[@amalopitou7217]

Thank you for your video. I do the same last week on my 1987 420 SEC. 👍😃

[@lorenreyes2855]

Compared to your oil filter. This is meer Childs play! Great Videos. Great Knowledge and experience! And that Amazing Attitude!

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Thanks ! That oil filter housing job was quite a challenge!

[@lewism8_]

Watching various methods of removal on youtube, and doing this task on the ground I was expecting a rough time. Soon as I took the bolt out my bushing just fell out with it. Was so easy 😂

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Some times you get lucky. 😁

[@robertfinkelstein2787]

great information on the Mercedes however I have a 71 Cadillac Fleetwood and I would love more information on the 472 engine as well as other advice. Keep up the great videos

[@wernerdanler2742]

That lift you have sure makes a difference. Can you imagine having to do something like that with the car on jackstands? I've done lots of those. I'd go for pulling the transmission to get at the rms. You have a transmission jack, right? If not that, what's next? Like Chauncey Gardener (Peter Sellers) said in 'Being There,' "I like to watch." Lol

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Great flick ! Still planning to do Monark nozzles very soon. Having a lift installed is not really all that expensive. Most folks think it is but for the money spent on a decent used car, you can buy a lift and have it professionally installed. Of course you need the ceiling height as well.

[@wernerdanler2742]

@@ImpalamansGarage You've seen that movie? Most people I mention anything about it have never heard of it. I'll be watching for the injector install. Are you going to pull the pre-combustion chambers. I saw Kent once showing how they can crystallize at the ends and pieces can get in your cylinders.

[@1995bulldog]

drops the trans and get a crank seal repair kit at the same time from rock auto i believe they call them speeded sleeves i have had great luck on m103. rear, front crank, cam seal, trans out put

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Looking at the service manual again this morning. Procedure for rear main requires removal of engine and removal of the crankshaft. Seal is a two piece rope type. Cannot be slid around the crank because there is a pin on the block side preventing the seal from rotating. Must be inserted without the crank in the motor.

[@1995bulldog]

@@ImpalamansGarage might as well seal her up

[@ImpalamansGarage]

@@1995bulldog agree. just dread pulling the motor. lol

[@Johnathan_Waters]

Sorry to hear about your rear main seal! Why can't you simply remove the transmission to gain access? I have done it this way several times. Until you can get around to doing it, I would recommend a bottle of AT-205 Reseal. It should at the VERY least slow the leak to a more acceptable rate of loss. For the idler arm, those bushings are almost always worn out. Nice job replacing it, your vehicles seem to be extremely well maintained! To test it for play, just have someone operate the steering wheel back and forth, while you watch carefully. Normally, there is up/down play in the arm as it move back and forth. Nice video!

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Appreciate the guidance on the rear main. I did some reading on it a while back and the procedure was so long I was like to heck with that..... I'll just pull the motor. But if you say it can be done more easily by pulling the trans, I'm for that!

[@Johnathan_Waters]

@@ImpalamansGarage No problem! I am certain it is possible, easier however, well that depends. Since you have a lift, it should make it about 100x easier that much i am sure of! Btw, that leak sealer is an agent than "swells" seals. It's the only one I have ever used that actually WORKED. I use it all the time on certain types of leaks only, and yours is a prime candidate. I normally am fervently against "additives" and "snake oil" type products. So that is REALLY saying something.

[@ImpalamansGarage]

@@Johnathan_Waters I am not seeing a way to do this with the engine in the car. Have you seen this video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/roWkgYN5hLdko7s

[@ImpalamansGarage]

@@Johnathan_Waters Looking at the service manual again this morning. Procedure for rear main requires removal of engine and removal of the crankshaft. Seal is a two piece rope type. Cannot be slid around the crank because there is a pin on the block side preventing the seal from rotating. Must be inserted without the crank in the motor.

[@Johnathan_Waters]

@@ImpalamansGarage Yes you are correct. I missed the part about your car being a diesel. I was thinking gas Inline 6 or even V8, which is obviously much different. Really sorry about that!! On the diesel however, it IS possible to "sneak" the seal in between the engine housings and the crankshaft without fully pulling everything apart. It may be more difficult to do it this way though. See what works best for you. Im sure there are other things that will need to be done "while you're in there" anyway, so not a huge loss!

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

👍

[@robertfinkelstein2787]

Thanks for the like. I have a problem with my 71 caddy Fleetwood the defroster won't work in the sense that when I try to direct it to go from floor to defroster it will not turn up into defroster do you have any ideas or suggestions. mind you it is a 1971 caddy Fleetwood with the original front disc brake rotors that's how well maintained the car was before I got it. She needs the usual TLC. the front end was completely professionally rebuilt the transmission was completely professionally rebuilt and the drive shaft was completely rebuilt and balanced.

[@ImpalamansGarage]

First thing I would check on the Caddy is vacuum leaks in the auto climate control. All the flaps are controlled with vacuum as you are aware. There is a control module under the passenger side of the dash. It has vacuum hoses connected to it. Make sure they are secure and not cracked or loose.

[@sas8403]

my mercedes manual states to tighten the idler bush to 120nm, you tightened to 180nm, which is the correct torque please, my lemforder item lasted 500 miles after which it started squeaking and making metallic noises on turning the steering did you tighten when car was on its weight or when on axle stands

[@mercedesw1264]

Hello, I just have the same issue ^^ does somebody can answer you ? I did 110 NM and not 150 NM it's for W124. Maybe torque with weels on the road change something ?

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Mecedes W125 Chassis and body Manual section 46-520 entitled "Checking idler arm play, R and R idler amr bushing": Installation note under step 6 states, "Replace self-locking nut. At least one complete thread should be visible on the bolt after tightening the self-locking nut. Tightening torque 180nm.

[@marketbuy]

In watching the video, is it really necessary to remove the tie rod? Can you remove the idler bushing without removing the tie rod first?

[@ImpalamansGarage]

It's the first step according to the Mercedes factory service manual.

[@Uc9uE3pKsS6uQ]

A1163200437

[@Uc9uE3pKsS6uQ]

the most expensive suspension part I recently bought

[@williamriedel1686]

Remove engine to replace rear main seal! And the crankshaft! Foul language has been deleted.

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Unfortunately replacing the rear main is in fact an engine out job on the OM617. Pretty disapointing.