1994-2004 Mustang Front Lower Control Arm Kit - Install & Review

[@youtubeuser5424]

Just did a complete suspension and steering overhaul on my 2001 GT, One small detail I would recommend which I did, is put a jack under the ball joint and jack up the arm to ride height before torquing the lower arm bolts to help prevent the bushings from tearing.

[@Gr504-l1u]

Good advice like setting it pre loaded

[@arbitrarynumberz]

3:50 These guys actually removed the inner tie rod to give the bolt clearance-great editing.

[@rogeliosoto6953]

Skipped the entire process of removing the inner tie rod😂wtf

[@riippiing9505]

i wanna see a tutorial on a rusty car thats actually driven, things take a nasty turn trying to change parts on a 20 year old turd

[@jamesa6272]

Everything breaks, strips or falls apart in your hands

[@TacoPotatoMustang]

Stand by 🤣I will be doing front LCAs on my Fox eventually

[@nrv5567]

For the rusty parts a blowtorch, lots of lube, and some elbow grease

[@jamesa6272]

I can’t see the holes lining up doing it this way…. I can hear many curse words trying to get it lined up fighting the spring tension.

[@LibrastarLibrastar]

@@rondoanderson Thanks for the heads up....doing them on my 97 today. Grrr

[@selfundone]

I'm really debating if I should pay my mechanic to do this, or endure the music while trying to listen to the instructions

[@bshneg]

Very well described and easy to understand. I sent this video to my buddy who doesn't do a whole lot of work on cars and this video definitely helped.

[@goodvibes7234]

Just replaced mine and the difference is night and day!

[@philibuster986]

With 2001 base model mustang with 3.8l, on the passenger side, I had to remove a small bolt that bolts upward to the floor board in order to slide the long back control arm bolt out. I did not have to support anything to do this. It was easy to remove. To take out the front control arm bolts, I only had to take off the 2 nuts and pry the steering rack forward. I slipped in a small piece of wood to keep it forward while I slid out the bolt.

[@philibuster986]

Also, on driver side, I removed the steering rack bushings so it would give me just enough room to pry the rack out and push it up out of the way to get the Lower arm bolt out. And to get the control arm bolts out, I slid in multiple bearing removal forks or used a block of wood to get leverage to pry the bolts out. In all, this is a very time consuming job working under the car. Very poor Ford engineering. Pisses me off when things are engineered like this. On my 3rd day working on and off.

[@philibuster986]

To remove the rack bushings, I sprayed pb blaster first then each bushing can be pryed out with your fingers so u don't damage them. That steel tube that goes thru the bushing would not come out for me. Thus I explained the way I got the steering rack pushed upward. Not sure how that steel tube going thru the rack bushings is put in -- maybe with some welds so it dont ever come out.

[@codyramos3200]

It comes out just need to get the ol 3lb hammer out n a 3/8 extension to persuade it . It comes out from the back to the front of car . N it's directional as in will only go in one was . Slight taper on one end as I remember .

[@erniepatterson4985]

@@philibuster986 K .

[@gnash615guy3]

I just got my front lower control arms out this weekend and let me tell you, it was a pain in the ass. I never watched any video's prior though and the whole control arm bolt hitting the steering assembly really caused me fits. lol

[@COBRO98]

I'm not sure how they got that driver side control arm bolt to go in without removing the rack, the rack was clearly even torqued down while they did it. You have to unbolt the steering shaft and pull down the entire steering rack to get that control arm bolt out fully.

[@mikeb.551]

The steering rack doesn't just have to be moved for mod motors... it also has to be moved for the v6 to get the bolts out... mines is 2001 deluxe v6 convertable

[@dansimmons1493]

If you are doing this in the driveway with floor a floor jack do yourself a favor and use a spring compressor and put it back together reverse of how you took it apart.

[@tonyjournet4066]

So it is 1am and I finished the swap of the Arms.... I struggled at first with the LH side Arm with getting it back bolted in and after about 5 tries I realized (after 2 beers) that the car wasn't level and that only the front was up on truck stands.... Jacked and put stands on the back to level car out and it went in without issue. RH side Arm took less than 45 min... on my 4th beer and time to hit the showers.

[@officerdomo2468]

Tony Journet did you remove the spindle or did you follow how they did in the video?

[@kennethlewis5285]

Really struggling with the passenger side is that what you talking about when you mention LH arm?...working on 94 3.8 base model

[@littlerey2000]

Why does it have to be level on on it right now and I thought about it and would it be the same ?

[@joebognar7449]

​@@kennethlewis5285 money off

[@kalgstol]

Putting a lot of faith in people to drop the spring like this.

[@codyramos3200]

As long as u lower control arm from the chassis mounting point it won't fly out .. I tested it with my own 96 I didn't want my buddy helping me to get hurt .

[@LibrastarLibrastar]

I had one fly out...and the other one was like it was glued in. Had to wrestle that one out.

[@COBRO98]

Trying to line up the chassis-side bolt holes with a floor jack would be a nightmare in itself. On the OEM length springs you can forget about it.

[@mateobean6635]

I can't believe I just watched you guys tighten down control arm bolts on a drooping front end. 🥴

[@jamesa6272]

Yeah and their regular sockets never break when being used with a impact gun

[@MustangMedic]

Great work guys, MustangMedic thanks you for your video. We’re about to do this job on our 2000 Newedge. We all grow together

[@latemodelrestoration]

We appreciate it! Thanks for the support!

[@josesalians9448]

Video was alot of help, thank you 94 mustang Gt, driver side control arm

[@brettconv83]

Damn Ford and putting the control arm bolts in so you have to slide the rack forward to get them out! I was gonna do it this weekend at home but I’m not gonna get it done without a lift

[@brettholt6277]

Watched there video and numerous other videos on pulling the heater core. Did it myself in about 3 days have more extra parts then I imagined I would. Engineers make these cars and can’t make a flip down lid coming out the fire wall.

[@travis00017]

Don’t you always wait to fully torque the arm-to-k-member bolts once the wheels are on the ground? I’ve read. Or doing this causing the bushings to bind and your car can even sit higher than it should because of that.

[@mateobean6635]

YES. I can't believe I just watched these guys do that, and then suggest others to. Those bushings have teeth that bite into place.

[@dillonbowers8950]

So much help I was trying to figure out how I was going to do this without could compressors

[@stevenlee92833]

Good video except for the music you were playing while talking, I know video production people like to add music to make videos more interesting, but when you are talking it is annoying, because you're trying to pay attention to the directions and you're forced to listen to music as well, there is a time and place for music like the intro and end, also when no one is speaking like a sped up time-lapse etc, but unless you're rapping we shouldn't hear music while you're talking, just my two cents

[@NimNum]

Damn !!! This is alot of work and information for a beginner !!! Im lost, 2001 Ford Mustang GT Owner !!

[@jamesa6272]

NimNum and remember those bolts will be a pita to get loose with no leverage working on the ground lol. All these videos make it look easy

[@ulisesc4388]

hell yeah first time i had to change balljoint was easily the most time consuming job iv done on the mustang except tranny

[@JaidenStylezTV]

@@ulisesc4388 did you replace the lower ball joint? If so do you have to take apart the whole control arm to do this?

[@andrewgallegos1194]

@@JaidenStylezTV to replace the ball joint, it's not necessary to remove the whole control arm

[@TheDerty249]

IF YOU DONT HAVE THE TIME OR TOOLS DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS. I have a 2001 base V6 and had to move the rack forward. On day 3 of the job and still on the side I started on. One bolt in the control arm has taken 2 days to get out. Also according to Ford the strut bolts/nuts and and control arm bolts/nuts are one time use. Be prepared to fork out more money for that if you value your safety.

[@dunde__]

Where do you find the information about "one time use"?

[@LibrastarLibrastar]

Florida car here....no rusty bolts and everything else like up north. I used all the same bolts. Edit...of course Ford is going to tell you that. 🤣

[@Turbo4Joe363]

Torqueing the control arm bolts when the control arms are 'full droop' locks the teethed metal bushing shells into place in the incorrect position. When you lower the car back down onto the ground to normal ride height, the control arms will be preloaded and under a lot of stress. The new rubber bushings will tear and wear out very quickly.

[@zachscheiber728]

I am about to do this install, people say the wheels need to be on the ground then you full torque. Maybe a dumb question but how would you have clearance to do so if that car is on the ground

[@vicentevasquez3668]

M​@zachscheiber728 you gotta have a drive on lift

[@COBRO98]

@@zachscheiber728 You place a floor jack under the control arm where the ball joint is and carefully jack it up to put a pre-load on the new control arm bushings, to about ride height. Then you torque to spec. You do this while the vehicle is still in the air on a lift or jack stands.

[@JeffDeanTheDeanZone]

Thanks for all the hard work. Unfortunately, it didn't work for me as easily as it did for you. When I struck the old control arm as demonstrated it would not come loose from the wheel hub. I beat on that thing as hard as I could over and over again. I finally had to remove the entire wheel hub, destroying my tie rod end in the process. I carried the entire hub and control arm to a bench, clamped it in and struck it over and over again with a 15 pound sledge hammer before it finally came out. Putting it back on the way you showed didn't work either. When I began jacking the control arm to compress the spring the entire thing just moved outward and away from the mount holes, even with a stationary jack, it took me numerous times repositioning the jack until it was in just the right spot. Also, you failed to demonstrate the installation of the steering rack and where it falls in the procedure.

[@latemodelrestoration]

Thanks for the comment. Every car is different. It's difficult to portray every single scenario someone may face in a video. I hope you understand. The steering rack was never fully removed, so I'm not sure what you're referring to about "installation". Per the video, slide it forward enough to gain access to the hardware. When finished, reinstall the removed hardware. -Landan

[@matteckert6676]

Didn't mention that they replaced the coil springs as well. Guess it would be the best time to do it

[@johndeloach503]

On the video when u are taking out the control arm the steering column is still in place. I'm confused on taking mine off 97 mustang 3.8

[@FancyAnimal]

On no Fox/SN95 with any kind of miles will those control arm pivot bolts come out. They will be fused to the steel bushing sleeve. An air hammer will be useless. You will need to cut right though the ends of the bushing and bolt with an angle grinder to remove the arms. Then replace pivot bolts with grade 8 types.

[@CarsFoodWeed]

You can use a jack handle on a long breaker bar to bust them loose.

[@FancyAnimal]

Cars Food Weed this does nothing to free the steel sleeve that is friction welded to the pivot bolt from years of driving. Turning the bolt just turns the sleeve until it tears itself free from the rubber bushing and then it just freewheels. You can’t drive the bolt out axially because the sleeve is welded to the bolt from years of driving. You have to cut the pivot bolts. If you’re lucky, an air chisel sometimes works to push the bolt through the sleeve...rare.

[@CarsFoodWeed]

@@FancyAnimal Forgot to mention I torched the bolts with mapp gas for about 5 minutes each. The jack handle worked for me, but I did end up busting my breaker bar on the last bolt. I've been daily driving my car for 10 years, it has 150k+ miles. Rain, snow or shine it gets me there.

[@FancyAnimal]

Cars Food Weed how do you torch the bolts without lighting the bushing on fire? Just cut them with an angle grinder cutoff wheel. It’s 2 cuts at about 30 seconds a cut. You don’t even need to loosen the nuts...1..2..3...what are you driving?

[@CarsFoodWeed]

@@FancyAnimal 1989 Mustang GT, just blow out the fire when they catch

[@pjtovar8888]

Great video .... I'm about to replace both L and R on my 03 mustang... just wish you would have listed what tools... socket ... required for the job... and what tool to use to make sure you have a 129 pounds on the ball joint nut....

[@latemodelrestoration]

PJ, any good socket set will allow you to complete the job!

[@AbsolutelyNot12345]

Don’t take this the wrong way, or do... either way, if you don’t know what tool is needed to torque a nut/bolt you should probably get someone who does to do so.

[@doublethinkplusone]

One of the bolts was seized inside the control arm bushing. I had to cut it out. Couldn't cut through the bushing metal sleeve, so I had to use a dremel to cut the head of the bolt off. Was a real pain.

[@JDoggoftheNetherlands17]

yeah, I just did mine today. I had to use the air hammer to move the bolt back and forth until I was finally able to get the bolt free.

[@TheDerty249]

Had the same problem on passenger side

[@williamgarcia9114]

Rear lower control arms next ? :)

[@latemodelrestoration]

William - Check out our other videos on our channel! We've shot a few different installs of rear lower control arms for the 1979-2004 Mustangs. Here is one we did on the BMR rear lower control arms: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGSuiHaEdsedpNU -Landan

[@sandmansimms5704]

I thought you're supposed to torque the arms with the wheels on the ground or ramps so it would be under a load ?

[@latemodelrestoration]

We always recommend torqueing everything while there is load on the vehicle. For this video, it was not shown but we do recommend it.

[@sandmansimms5704]

@@latemodelrestoration cool beans

[@codyramos3200]

why didnt my lca have a castle nut an cotter pin ? are they replacements that im replacing ?

[@latemodelrestoration]

Cody - Someone may have replaced just the ball joint or the entire control. That is definitely not factory, though! -Landan

[@codyramos3200]

Landan , thanks for the reply! an thank you for the how to on the lca's. huge help

[@ronblah8538]

Not sure what he said at 2:30. “If you have a mod motorcar “?? What does that mean ? Some 2004’s need to remove the rack and others not ?

[@latemodelrestoration]

Ron - Because of the k-member design and steering rack placement on 96-04 4.6L-based engines, the steering rack needs to be moved forward in order to remove the frontward lower control arm hardware. The car in this video was a 94-95 Mustang which has a 5.0L engine. Hope this helps! -Landan

[@ronblah8538]

Late Model Restoration , thanks. I have a 2004 V6 convertible so no need to move the rack..

[@raymondharo9974]

This helped a lot I'm about to replace my LCA's

[@gsc2866]

Its simple to move the steering rack dont let that scare you from doing the job

[@COBRO98]

A prayer & my condolences to anyone that attempts this on jack stands, it can be done but I promise you'll start on Friday afternoon & finish Monday night. Power tools won't save you, there's not enough clearance even for compact impact guns. You'll have no leverage with your hand tools laying on your back. Either get access to a lift or pay to have a shop do it on their lifts, trust me.

[@moisesgutierrez2639]

I have an old cobra just sitting would you guys like to fix it all up as a tutorial video and return like new 😄😄

[@jamesa6272]

Why is the tie rod missing at 3:52.

[@latemodelrestoration]

We were shooting multiple videos that day. One of which was replacing the inner tie rods. Check it out if you'd like! The link is below. -Landan kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHyumnywqsx1j5I

[@shadowsfad3d]

why do you say and show you removing the rack but it clearly shows the rack in place and bolted when taking the old arm off and putting the new arm on?

[@latemodelrestoration]

shadows faded - That was for illustration purposes. Because of the switch to mod motors in 1996, Ford slightly changed the k-member geometry. Hence why we showed bringing the steering rack forward. The car in the video is a 94-95 push rod 5.0 car, so the rack can stay in place. Hope this helps! -Landan

[@shadowsfad3d]

@@latemodelrestoration ty landan. very helpful. .just wanted to make sure because im tackling this in the driveway this wkend.

[@andyy0801]

Anyone else having a tough time trying to remove the ball joint from the spindle? Cause same.

[@CarsFoodWeed]

Did you get it loose? A little bit of heat from a torch goes a long way.

[@gsc2866]

You have to beat those fuckers out with a hammer and when I say hammer I'm talking about a 4lb hand held sludge hammer

[@bryanr5756]

This method works obviously if you have a lift.. hard as hell to get the control arm bolt holes lined up if youre doing the job on jackstands.. ordered a $17 tool from MMS. Easier.

[@juancarlosquintero1932]

What kind of tool was it

[@Double_D_2912]

What tool?

[@bryanr5756]

It was a small spring compressor that they made.. that was back ordered 6 weeks when i tried ordering it..was able to get the springs in with just a floor jack

[@hrzn99]

Any clue if this process is pretty much the same on a 1990 foxbody as well? Seems fairly straight forward to diy if so

[@latemodelrestoration]

Hi Jordan, The process is very similar to the Fox Body. Here is a link to our Fox Body video for reference: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqTcZIp8oK2boLs

[@tushtush4470]

Do you need to remove the steering rack for a 2002 v6 mustang

[@latemodelrestoration]

Yes. -Landan

[@garlandalford316]

Has anyone had a problem with the ball joint bolt turning while trying to tighten the nut? I can't get the nut tightened due to the bolt turning. Now what? Im at a loss..

[@latemodelrestoration]

Hey Garland, give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or us the link below to get into contact with us. Our CCR team can help you out - lmr.com/contact

[@justinwilliams4843]

Impact gun

[@eliseoterrazas4345]

Same I’m doing mine now and it keeps turning can’t tighten at all. Any help

[@kennethlewis5285]

I noticed there is no tie rod connected on the passenger side nor did they elaborate on such...I took it off but still having trouble getting it back on

[@kennethlewis5285]

Getting the control arm back on that is

[@latemodelrestoration]

Please give us a call if you're still having issues at 1-866-507-3786. Our customer care team can answer any questions you may have. - Jude H. - Social Media/Events Coordinator

[@torrencesmith7353]

How do you keep the spring from popping out

[@Bringthatover]

slowly and carefully lower the jack under the Control Arm. Once the spring tension is relieved completely, it will not POP OUT

[@rondeezy2522]

98 mustang gt new control arm wont fit into k member any help would be appreciated.

[@brettconv83]

Get a prybar and bend it open

[@mikeb.551]

Hammer... big fukn hammer

[@josephpurcell3341]

has anyone did a 03 04 gt ? do you have to move steering rack like shown in video? just put new hubs on car saw i need new ball joints so mite as well do whole control arm and sway bar end links while got it apart. thanks

[@anthonyroby34]

Did you have to move it?

[@robertizelo193]

I own a 1998 mustang v6 im in the process of replacing my arms i installed the arms but i cant connect steering rack back to the steering shaft its just a bolt right to tighten it up. To connect the steering shaft and steering rack do i put pressure to connect it so it could slide in like hitting it with a hammer so it slides in then tighten it up? Any tips or should i do it with force*hammer* please help

[@latemodelrestoration]

Hey Robert, using some force from a hammer or mallet may be required to get it all to sit again. Force is needed due to wear and tear caused by driving over time.

[@robertizelo193]

@@latemodelrestoration thank you very much i also bought my controls arms from you guys GOOD LOOKS 💯🔥 THANKS

[@shawnweaver8091]

How did you get the front control arm bolts out without moving the steering rack?

[@latemodelrestoration]

Hi Shawn, If you have a 96-04 Mod motor car, you will have to move the steering rack. If you do not, you should be able to fit all the tools in-between and remove the front control arm bolts without an issue. Please give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below if you have any other additional questions or concerns: lmr.com/contact

[@johndeloach503]

97 base mustang, driverside LCA the steering rack is blocking the bolt from backing out, seems like I'm missing a step

[@vicentevasquez3668]

I have a height issue on a 97 GT the passenger side is about half inche higher then the driver side anyone knows where the problem might be? Is got everything new by the way

[@latemodelrestoration]

This is a very common problem on 79-04 Mustangs. Both of My New Edge cars did it. One did it worse than the other. There are plenty of forum posts about this. Most folks just chalk it up as "whatever" and carry on. If you want to try and level it out, you can play around with adding/removing spring isolators. -Landan

[@Kmrj_gt]

I love these videos

[@davidd6003]

Is the fox LCA the same torque for the mounting bolts ?

[@latemodelrestoration]

David - Yes! The Fox Body shares the same lower control arm to k-member hardware torque spec as the SN95 cars. -Landan

[@JaidenStylezTV]

I just want to replace the ball joint..do i have to remove the arm to do so ?

[@nite82hawk]

No you don't. LMR also has a video on how to replace them...... kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGmzk5WMqb6IY7M

[@AbsolutelyNot12345]

If you just loosen the rack n pinion you can remove the from control arm bolts. You do not have to remove it.

[@COBRO98]

On the driver's side you absolutely have to remove and lower the steering rack to clearance for the frontward control arm bolt, on 96+ models.

[@cashmoneyv197436ify]

Will they fit on a Foxbody? A 87

[@latemodelrestoration]

No, they fit 94-04 only

[@firefightergarcia]

Is this a great upgrade for a 93 lx 5.0

[@DanerdzYT]

i have sn95 arms on my fox, it depends on what your application is, itll increase the track width by an inch and a half but the stock caster camber plates dont really adjust enough to dial out the extra -camber, if you bought maximum motorsports caster camber plates they give plenty of adjustment to dial it back out, so if youre going for a camber setup anyway its great, bolts right up with no issues.

[@firefightergarcia]

Seca86Drift thanks

[@sergiomurillo9930]

So is it true you need to replace the hardware? Or can you reuse it? I’ve heard different things and want to be sure before I tackle the job.

[@latemodelrestoration]

You can reuse the factory hardware. But if you want to replace it, you can do that as well. It all comes down to preference. - Jude H. - Social Media/Events Coordinator

[@musclerussell8109]

Lot of work I’m getting old

[@elontusk9898]

4:44

[@elontusk9898]

5:12

[@stangos5751]

💯🔥

[@jesusestradamartinez5351]

Its pound feet by the way

[@stangbanger93stickshiftonl3]

Yal are skipping entirely too much. And this method is the most dangerous method. Should take pressure off the spring before doing the control arm bolts. Also one k member bolt has to be removed to get the rear bolt out.

[@richirich1]

Great tutorial if you have a lift but guarantee it is NOT this simple. I’m unsure what aftermarket springs they have but factory original springs are so long and make it difficult to remove and/or put back the control arms. Had to use a Jack and a come along to pull the control arm into place in order to get the rear holes aligned with the frame to put the bolts through. Horrible design and definitely a job you might want to consider giving to a mechanic with a lift!!

[@latemodelrestoration]

Thanks for taking time to comment. All of your points are valid. I've done this multiple times off of jack stands. It isn't fun by any stretch of the imagination, but sometimes, it is what it is. -Landan

[@richirich1]

@@latemodelrestoration indeed. I work on foreign cars, but definitely was ready for this job. It gave me hell. Not going to talk about the ball joint seized in the knuckle… glad it’s over! Tutorial provide some good insight

[@leebrown2960]

Does anyone know if a bad control arm will cuz the car to shack at hi speed

[@javiermiranda1751]

Steering wheel vibration you mean? Getting your front wheels balanced might help

[@gsc2866]

Yea it will itll also feel like a shimmey but bad control arms are real noticeable at slow speeds

[@officerdomo2468]

So did anyone actually do it how they did in the video? Without removing the spindle?

[@forgetfuljade]

Yea. And without moving the steering rack just disconnect the tie rods.

[@codyramos3200]

Why would u remove spindle ? No need for that unless you are replacing spindles . At least on this style front end . The strut acts as the upper control arm

[@codyramos3200]

I did it just like video . I would recommend new spring isolators since the spring is out .. I didn't replace mine wish I would have . . Bolts that go through bushings need to be tightened with car on ground or with the suspension loaded as if it were on the ground

[@BeagleBob-zw7wg]

Wow, just bang the k member with a hammer because nobody can be bothered to make a bushing that fits.

[@latemodelrestoration]

The k-member squeezes together a few millimeters when the lower control arm bolts are torqued. Even when reinstalling a factory arm, it helps if you widen the mounting area on the k-member. -Landan

[@COBRO98]

You have to bang the k-member tabs open to get the new arms in, Landan is correct, the tabs will draw closer in real time as you torque the new arm to specification(149ftlbs).

[@shelbyGT40]

Not greaseable

[@ronblah8538]

Yeah well, I had to move the rack ALOT . Goddamn engineers

[@raymondharo9974]

What model is your car??

[@iDAV8]

Don’t let this video fool you, by now, unless somebody kept your Rustang inside all these years…front control arms WILL be the worst job you can do on these turds lol